[Clive McDonald]

ditto

[NWH]

I have my heater mounted on the back door in the open air i see you don`t,does the heater give off a lot of fumes this is the reason why i mounted it on the back door.Also do you turn everything off after every job ie gas heater etc,as you can see i don`t know a lot about gas.

[Clive McDonald]

It will blow out on the back door and there will be a 3 min cut off. The only fumes are carbon monoxide which is casued by incomplete combustion, this is what kills people when they fall asleep in the same room as a gas appliance.
However, you have to breath it for several hours and the symptons are that it makes you sleepy and gives you a headache.The advice is to use your heater in a well ventilated place- maybe near a door but sheilded from a direct draught.

[Dave Turley]

Seven bays, what you say about flow usage and firing up is true. A varistream won't alter that in any way.

I use varistreams, but the situation you describe is unaltered.

Nathaeneal has got round this by introducing mods, but I am strongly against this.

i'm pretty sure a thermostatic mixer valve would sort this problem for you

[Clive McDonald]

Are you saying put some cold in with the hot? This would use more water not less surely?

I'm not really up to speed on this so don't shoot me, but I believe this would be more use on the old fashioned diesel heating systems , the newer on demand gas systems use too much water- that's what we are saying-. Nathaneal has hot wired his to disable the manu's settings.

[Mr Cleannclear]

So if you are all ready WFP what else do you need  to buy when you get a L5

[NWH]

As far as the regulator goes,couldn`t i just take it to a plummers merchants and ask for the same but in the eu-uk version i was told that the us one is no good.

[NWH]

So if you are all ready WFP what else do you need  to buy when you get a L5

Just hose+connectors for water input-output and also a UK regulator i`m told.

[Alex Wingrove]

What fittings are people using to fit the water in and out pipes,there smaller than the normal hoselock fittings.Anyone idea what size they are and where you can get them,if i can i want to use hoselock connectors for the time being.

i went to b and q and they sell brass tap adapters you now the one there is a smaller one and then another one screws onto that and then there is a male hoselock

thats what ive been using and its quite good. remember not to put and end stop on the hot water out or it wont work

experience talking there is it?

yeah i couldn't work out what was going on, because i got t working and then fiddled and it didnt come out as it should

so yes a hozelock with no end stop is needed

[The Seven Bays Window Cleaning Company]

Seven bays, what you say about flow usage and firing up is true. A varistream won't alter that in any way.

I use varistreams, but the situation you describe is unaltered.

Nathaeneal has got round this by introducing mods, but I am strongly against this.

Ok Thanks... I need to think a wee bit more about this problem

[Alex Wingrove]

i went to boc, they rent me the gas bottle for 1.88 a month and the gas in £25 a topup i got my regulator from them aswell, £7, and some o rings are needed,

i thing i will be fabricating a flue in the next few days, because there is a nice dry patch in my my roof from where the fumes are warm, but the rest of the ran roof is soaking wet, it took 5 microfiber clothes to get it dry, and at the end of today is was soaking again,

[Alex Wingrove]

Seven bays, what you say about flow usage and firing up is true. A varistream won't alter that in any way.

I use varistreams, but the situation you describe is unaltered.

Nathaeneal has got round this by introducing mods, but I am strongly against this.

Ok Thanks... I need to think a wee bit more about this problem

basically the l5 with only start heating water if it thinks water is flowing, currently 2l a minute can be hit and miss today and yesterday i had 3 hours solid use from it, and then it went a bit intermittent with when it started heating, very nothing when the hose goes all solid,

so by fitting this flow valve thing, it will trick the l5 into starting when less water is running through it

[The Seven Bays Window Cleaning Company]

Seven bays, what you say about flow usage and firing up is true. A varistream won't alter that in any way.

I use varistreams, but the situation you describe is unaltered.

Nathaeneal has got round this by introducing mods, but I am strongly against this.

Ok Thanks... I need to think a wee bit more about this problem

basically the l5 with only start heating water if it thinks water is flowing, currently 2l a minute can be hit and miss today and yesterday i had 3 hours solid use from it, and then it went a bit intermittent with when it started heating, very nothing when the hose goes all solid,

so by fitting this flow valve thing, it will trick the l5 into starting when less water is running through it

What flow valve thing - a mixer valve or low flow switch ?

The thing is for me, is that my days have been organised so that I use pretty much 300 to 350 litres a day ( a van tank is 350 litres) - yeh some days I use more and that is when i top up and the Di comes into play. But I don't want to having to top up everyday through excessive use of water - as its costly, and not always convenient to top up.

So, for me reducing the flow to what I'm used to, and getting a the desired temp of my water is important.

I'm sure the answer isn't that complicated - but I want to get it right, rather than going out buying new controllers, thermobore hoses, mixer valves ect otherwise its going get very expensive.

[steven ainger]

get a bigger tank.        

[The Seven Bays Window Cleaning Company]

I don't think my ikkle van would be too happy about that....

[Nathanael Jones]

For those who use a very low flow rate:
www.uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=searchProducts&searchTerm=395-6962+&x=24&y=9

For those (Like me) who use a bit more:
www.uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=3956978

There is a way to bypass the flow switch all together and just have it set to fire up when the WFP pump is running,.....

[Jeff Brimble]

For those who use a very low flow rate:

There is a way to bypass the flow switch all together and just have it set to fire up when the WFP pump is running,.....

I would be interested in that if you have the time.

[ALAN HAYNES]

For those who use a very low flow rate:

There is a way to bypass the flow switch all together and just have it set to fire up when the WFP pump is running,.....

I would be interested in that if you have the time.

me too

[Alex Wingrove]

nathanael i use two litres a minute what is the best one for me?

[Nathanael Jones]

nathanael i use two litres a minute what is the best one for me?

I'd use the external flow switch, prob the 1.9 ltr one. I've the 1ltr/min one and it fires up at 1/2ltr per min or less!

To bypass the flow switch all together you need a 6V relay. The coil side of the relay goes to the pump wires, and you run the wires that used to go to the flow switch to the normally open contacts on the other side of the relay. Your pump starts, activates the relay, which switches on the heater regardless of flow rate,... pump stops, the relay contacts open and the heater stops.
The L5 has an overheat sensor,.. so if your flow rate is low enough that this kicks in you may have problems with intermittent heating,.. but set to minimum power I'd expect it'd be rare that this would be a problem.