Thanks guys!
👍
Starting to get the idea now. It’s a shame there’s not a bypass valve setting.
So am I right in saying that for the frost stat to work you have to remember to re-arrange your pipe work and connect back to tank?
As the saying goes; you can't have your cake and eat it too.
Ionics recirculate the heat back to the tank when the hose tap is switched off. It does it with a pressure relief valve. But the down side is that the pump runs all the time. The upside is that you will get hot water all the time. The next downside is that Ionics can't fit a thermostatic temperature control valve - on a low temperature setting the process wouldn't work as the flow back to the tank wouldn't be zapping enough heat from the system. Ionics have included a summer and winter switch will reduces the winter temperature by around 10 degrees depending on how they have wired the switch up.
The downside with the other heaters is that when the boiler switches off it takes 180 seconds to complete its shutdown cycle which can't be interupted. It then takes another 180 second to restart the boiler and takes longer still to reach 'working' temperature. So the window cleaner who just starts to clean again after a short break will find he soon has cold water at the brush head if the heater has just entered its shutdown mode. If it takes him 6 minutes to clean the front or back windows then the boiler will only just start to get going when the job is completed. Its easy to get out of sync with the heaters shutdown modes.
Having invested a large sum of money in his system he may start to feel that he has been short changed if it happens often.
I get rather frustrated waiting for the controller to restart the flow if I have to wait 4 seconds, let alone 6 minutes plus.
Hmmmm, that’s interesting spruce.
So just thinking out loud, it should I’m probciple be very very easy to rig up a pressure relief valve yourself. Just fit that between the pump and reel, with a return to the tank. Then as soon as you turn the water off at your brush head, the pressure builds, opens the relief valve and starts putting hot water back into the tank.
When you turn the water back on at the brush head the pressure relief valve will be closed and then you divert the hot water to your brush.
As you said, downside is that the pump runs constantly, but you can have plenty enough power to combat that, but the plus side is that you get rid of the 180 second shut down, and get a hot tank of water by lunch time meaning you can turn off the boiler.
What exactly is it that kicks in the 180 second shut down?
The Webasto is programmed to shut down once the water in the internal water circuit reaches a perprogrammed heat.
On NWH's Thermo Top C is when the temperature reaches 77 degrees C. (When it reaches 74 degrees C its goes into half heat mode.)
It takes sometime to heat 8 or 9 liters of water in the header tank and then heat is being removed from the system when you are cleaning windows. So no, the heater doesn't switch off between windows. NWH will give you an idea of how long it takes the heater to get up to working temperature.
When used as an engine and windscreen defroster, the normal time to warm the engine is around 30 minutes using the same heater. The Thermo Top C will heat the water in the engine first until it reaches 30 degrees C and then it will kick the internal heater fan on to defrost the windscreen if its switched on inside the vehicle.) It cuts off at 77 degrees C as that's just before the thermostat opens to pass water through the radiator to cool it.
NWH plugs his hose into the tank once he has finished cleaning windows and this is a manual bypass with the pump working. One could also use a 3 way ball valve to quickly swap the heat source from the pole to the tank.
With the Frostat that Spring sell they incorporate a thermometer on the outlet from the system to the hose reel. This reads the temperature in the van and is the trigger to activate the controller. Its suggested that hot water is run through the hose reel as that also keeps it from freezing up. The Frostat not only switches on the heater but also activates the pump as well.
The Frostat doesn't keep a watch on the temperature rise above 2 degrees. It just runs for 10 minutes and any heat taken from the internal heating circuit is pumped into the tank. It switches off after 10 minutes and is only reactivated once the temperature drops to 2 degrees C again.
The water in the internal heating circuit is protected from frost as it is treated with antifreeze. The problem is that the pure water in the other chamber of the heat exchanger will freeze and damage the heat exchanger. So switching on the heater is to protect the pure water circuit.
Ionics bypass valve kickes off at 65psi. I would rather use a 3 way ball valve and redirect the hot water to the tank that way.
Here's an example
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-2-3-4-1-3-way-Ball-Valve-Stainless-Steel-Female-Port-T-Type-Lever-Handle/262760754224?hash=item3d2dc2ec30:m:m0HdHGkEzlvFpKUKk-ad64g