[richard groves]

Fair play to Gordon still having a V1 going strong, This shows the resilience of the kit, The V11 Analogue was aimed to fill this slot if people feel it is to complex well maybe we should re visit it.

Ian, please bring back the V1, its brilliant, does exactly what it says on the tin  
I think there is still a place in the market for it and I reckon they would be very popular.
I think your latest controllers are probably great too on fitted systems from suppliers but I think from what I read on here most people who have problems with de and calibration etc. are those who have a diy system like myself and our only requirement of a controller is to adjust the speed of the pump. My V1 must be atleast 8 years old or so and never given me a problem.

[dd]

Flow controllers are useful bits of kit which have been ruined by over complicating them!

I agree,
I have an original mk1 eco flow controller from Crow-electro ( now known as Spring ). Its just a simple analogue dial with an led and thats all ! simply does all that I wanted it for - contol the speed of the pump. Seems the more advanced something becomes the more there is to go wrong.
Is there a similar product still available from any supplier now ?

Last time I looked on Ionics website (or could have been Pure2o) they had a controller that did this (not in their catalogue though). Think it was £95 plus VAT.

[Mitchellmoxo]

12v motor controller from ebay £4.99 ive always used this instead of those £60 controllers does the job just fine

[rosskesava]

12v motor controller from ebay £4.99 ive always used this instead of those £60 controllers does the job just fine

I've been using one for 3+ years although mine was more expensive than yours.

I think I paid about £6.

[♠Winp®oClean♠]

Fair play to Gordon still having a V1 going strong, This shows the resilience of the kit, The V11 Analogue was aimed to fill this slot if people feel it is to complex well maybe we should re visit it.

Ian, please bring back the V1, its brilliant, does exactly what it says on the tin  
I think there is still a place in the market for it and I reckon they would be very popular.
I think your latest controllers are probably great too on fitted systems from suppliers but I think from what I read on here most people who have problems with de and calibration etc. are those who have a diy system like myself and our only requirement of a controller is to adjust the speed of the pump. My V1 must be atleast 8 years old or so and never given me a problem.

The reason for what you read on here is for two reasons- incorrect fitting or components (wire grade, connectors etc) & users not understanding how the controller works- thus DE cuts in & they don't understand why or what affects system pressures & the resulting effect on the controller. I reckon in 99% of cases the controller is not at fault!!

[Ian Sheppard]

Hi Dave fair point regard the duel purpose of the ps message. All comments good or not are valid and help us understand better what information is needed. Not surprised you were frustrated. 

Gordon thank you for your comments i will pass this on.

[Mitchellmoxo]

12v motor controller from ebay £4.99 ive always used this instead of those £60 controllers does the job just fine

I've been using one for 3+ years although mine was more expensive than yours.

I think I paid about £6.

lol you must have the superior model!!

[Tom White]

One of our controllers just went 'kaput' and the other went 'kaput' when I connected the battery terminal up the wrong way one early morning.

I thought then, stuff 'em, and haven't used one since.

I might knock up the DIY one; some accounts it would be useful to use a reduced flow rate on (real leaded windows for example), but we just work full flow, quickly, and we never have controller or battery problems these days.

[rosskesava]

12v motor controller from ebay £4.99 ive always used this instead of those £60 controllers does the job just fine

I've been using one for 3+ years although mine was more expensive than yours.

I think I paid about £6.

lol you must have the superior model!!

Yup. I don't just buy any old stuff. One must always be one step above the riff raff. 

Mine has a white line on the dial.

[richard groves]

Fair play to Gordon still having a V1 going strong, This shows the resilience of the kit, The V11 Analogue was aimed to fill this slot if people feel it is to complex well maybe we should re visit it.

Ian, please bring back the V1, its brilliant, does exactly what it says on the tin  
I think there is still a place in the market for it and I reckon they would be very popular.
I think your latest controllers are probably great too on fitted systems from suppliers but I think from what I read on here most people who have problems with de and calibration etc. are those who have a diy system like myself and our only requirement of a controller is to adjust the speed of the pump. My V1 must be atleast 8 years old or so and never given me a problem.

The reason for what you read on here is for two reasons- incorrect fitting or components (wire grade, connectors etc) & users not understanding how the controller works- thus DE cuts in & they don't understand why or what affects system pressures & the resulting effect on the controller. I reckon in 99% of cases the controller is not at fault!!

probably right and would probably include myself as one of those people  ! 

[Paul Coleman]

Exactly! Why would you waste money on a piece of equipment which slows you down?

This is an argument which just constantly repeats itself on this forum. If you don't understand how controllers work, what they do & the reasons for that- then carry on working in the dark ages!!

BOTH the above comments are ridiculous for blatantly obvious reasons!

And the blatantly obvious reasons are?

It's a funny thing how some people present opinion as fact.
There are many different ways of working.  I know my preferences but have no problem with other people working to theirs.  The biggest problem seems to be when someone says that their way is the only right and true way and every other way is wrong.

[♠Winp®oClean♠]

Exactly! Why would you waste money on a piece of equipment which slows you down?

This is an argument which just constantly repeats itself on this forum. If you don't understand how controllers work, what they do & the reasons for that- then carry on working in the dark ages!!

BOTH the above comments are ridiculous for blatantly obvious reasons!

And the blatantly obvious reasons are?

It's a funny thing how some people present opinion as fact.
There are many different ways of working.  I know my preferences but have no problem with other people working to theirs.  The biggest problem seems to be when someone says that their way is the only right and true way and every other way is wrong.

The bit highlighted in red should give you a clue

I wouldn't say that electronic flow controllers are a waste of money; they can be useful in certain circumstances.  I've never bothered with one myself though as I have a return to tank pipe that can be adjusted.  Such controllers are just another thing that can go wrong - but they are helpful in situations where the flow needs to be carefully regulated.  I would probably only use one if I had a tank size in a lighter van that meant me needing to use less water.  As it is, I'm a single operator with a van payload that just about allows an 800 litre tank.  I prefer to work with a higher flow where practical as too low a flow rate can slow me down a bit.

Then, if you care to explain how a controller- which can run your pump at it's maximum capacity can possibly slow you down?

I'd say these are pretty safe as facts wouldn't you Davie boy?

[Paul Coleman]

I wrote that I've never bothered with one myself.  However, it is the case that I  used one for a short while - though it was fitted to someone else's system.

I suppose the other thing is that if someone were to use a flow controller to run the pump at full tilt, then there wouldn't be much point bothering with it in the first place.
I'm not anti-flow controller.  I have just never seen the need because I have a tank that is larger than my needs for a days work.
There seems to be a lot of this rubbishing the way other people do things on here - generally.  It's a great pity that there is some useful stuff on here too otherwise I wouldn't bother with it.

[andyM]

One of our controllers just went 'kaput' and the other went 'kaput' when I connected the battery terminal up the wrong way one early morning.

I thought then, stuff 'em, and haven't used one since.

I might knock up the DIY one; some accounts it would be useful to use a reduced flow rate on (real leaded windows for example), but we just work full flow, quickly, and we never have controller or battery problems these days.

If you do fit one Tosh it's worthwhile fitting an inline fuse between battery and controller, so that if you connect the battery terminals up wrong the only thing to go pop will be the fuse.

[Ian Sheppard]

One of our controllers just went 'kaput' and the other went 'kaput' when I connected the battery terminal up the wrong way one early morning.

I thought then, stuff 'em, and haven't used one since.

I might knock up the DIY one; some accounts it would be useful to use a reduced flow rate on (real leaded windows for example), but we just work full flow, quickly, and we never have controller or battery problems these days.

If you do fit one Tosh it's worthwhile fitting an inline fuse between battery and controller, so that if you connect the battery terminals up wrong the only thing to go pop will be the fuse.

 

I would agree fitting the correct rated fuse will protect the control in a reverse polarity situation.As andy says in the case of a miss wire the fuse blows and protects the control. Our units do have additional reverse polarity protection in a RP diode and over current protection.
 We engineer in a number of protection features that are designed to make the control last. Plus if they do go bang in the majority of cases they are repairable.

[Tom White]

If you do fit one Tosh it's worthwhile fitting an inline fuse between battery and controller, so that if you connect the battery terminals up wrong the only thing to go pop will be the fuse.

Both of my past controller had in-line fuses, yet the controller still went 'pop' when I got the polarity around the wrong way.

 

[♠Winp®oClean♠]

I wrote that I've never bothered with one myself.  However, it is the case that I  used one for a short while - though it was fitted to someone else's system.

I suppose the other thing is that if someone were to use a flow controller to run the pump at full tilt, then there wouldn't be much point bothering with it in the first place.
I'm not anti-flow controller.  I have just never seen the need because I have a tank that is larger than my needs for a days work.
There seems to be a lot of this rubbishing the way other people do things on here - generally.  It's a great pity that there is some useful stuff on here too otherwise I wouldn't bother with it.

I spent 4 years working like you, with a bypass valve & over 6 years with a controller. I wouldn't work without a controller again. However, in those first 4 years, I too didn't want a controller as I was fine the way I was- until I got one then wondered how I'd ever managed before without it!!

[Lee GLS]

It's definitely user error that causes problems. I've got a couple of V9 controllers that are 4 years old that have never missed a beat. They are a must for anyone with 2 operators so as not to run out of water.

I can see why a one man band may not require a controller if he can carry enough water to last the day.

[Ian Sheppard]

If you do fit one Tosh it's worthwhile fitting an inline fuse between battery and controller, so that if you connect the battery terminals up wrong the only thing to go pop will be the fuse.

Both of my past controller had in-line fuses, yet the controller still went 'pop' when I got the polarity around the wrong way.

 

Can i ask what rating the fuses were? Also which controls did you have and how old were they were.

[Tom White]

If you do fit one Tosh it's worthwhile fitting an inline fuse between battery and controller, so that if you connect the battery terminals up wrong the only thing to go pop will be the fuse.

Both of my past controller had in-line fuses, yet the controller still went 'pop' when I got the polarity around the wrong way.

 

Can i ask what rating the fuses were? Also which controls did you have and how old were they were.

I can't remember the rating of the fuses, but I'm sure they came with the controllers.  One controller was from Cleaning Warehouse - an orange thing that doubled as a split charge relay.  The other was from Window Cleaning Warehouse - a standard variflow I think it was.

They were about a year old when they 'went'.

I'm probably not much help.