[kinder clean]

Got a blood stain to do on Wednesday, a patch about the size of a dinner plate plus a few drips.

Its been there since new years eve, the carpets an oatmeal coloured wool mix.

I've got some prochem stainpro which I remember being told was good for blood stains, what are the chances of a succesful removal ?

Are there any other products or techniques I should try if the stainpro doesn't get it all out ?

Many thanks

Paul

P.S. when does blood become a bio hazard ! 

[Steve. Taylor]

First step safety mask gloves ect. Then cold rinse next your stain pro leave to dwell 10 mins
then cold rinse cold water is a key factor on this one explain to customer you may have to come back as they can often wick up when drying out if you do have to go back use rust remover and dont get the fibre to wet this time this has worked for me before hope you get a result.

[CleanerCarpets]

hi there - to be honest the cleaning isnt the problem, so long as you would use a cold rinse, it cleans out normally without a problem. However, bigger spills do always wick back a little so you have to bear in mind a second visit is sometimes needed and as little moisture used as possible on the wick back is best (IMO)

However! blood is always a bio hazard and you will be contaminating your machine. If you use a porty then you can in no way have that in the house as it will vent hazards all over the place.

To be honest, many will say (including me!) that it shouldnt be cleaned out, but bagged and binned. All of your equipment and machine would need decontaminating after and whether you want to bother depends on the price of the job and whether you want to be at risk and put others at risk. I wouldnt want you cleaning my carpets any time soon after you did that job!!

[Jim_77]

My very first step is to thoroughly spray the area with a sanitiser.

Cold works up to a point, definitely use it first off but after initial cold rinsing sometimes you might find success at the other end of the scale.  Go hot after all normal initial approaches though, after protein elements have been removed.  Rust remover is a good tip also, phosphoric acid is the safer alternative but less aggressive, hydrofluoric acid (don't confuse with hydrochloric) is the real deal, much more effective but don't get it on your skin!

Pre-test your stain pro, it can take colour out, ends up looking like vanish patches.

Blood technically becomes a biohazard the minute it leaves the human body I suppose.  Do whatever you feel is necessary, but at least wash your hands afterwards

Steve makes a very good point - let your client know there's a high chance of a re-visit required.  You can minimise this obviously by rinsing very thoroughly and drying the area off, hairdryer first then leave an airmover blowing on it whilst you pack up.

Wool is a mixed blessing, sometimes harder to remove the stain but wicking is minimal, good chance if it looks OK after 1st clean it'll be fixed with no 2nd visit.

Charge well  Last blood stain I did (sounds very similar to yours actually) on an 80/20 I took over a ton for it.  But this was after qualification and discussing insurance, the last thing you want is a failed attempt and then they get whacked for their excess too.  Try to steer towards insurance and let them talk you into cleaning it.

Sometimes you're more of a hero by not doing the job and saving them a hundred quid but try to leave a quote in their hand for other work before you leave

[Jim_77]

Oh yeah sorry I forgot the health and safety bit, you need to incinerate your machine, tools and clothes after the job just in case you catch something

[Steve. Taylor]

Jim let me know when you do your next blood job. i will collect all your gear to save you the hassle of burning it MATE

[richy27]

can i have first dibs on the drimaster.


ps jim in dog house hence up so late

[Jim_77]

OK Steve will do

Oops Rich, well we've all been there. Try scratching at the back door and whining see how long she lasts

[Steve Barnett (Carpet Care Plus)]

Cut it out - bag it, tag it and bin it !


Steve

[stevie wonder]

Jim
No disrespect to your excellent carpet cleaning ,but hydroflouric acid is extremely poisonous and corrosive even diluted
and is the only acid that will eat away any glass it comes into contact  releasing hydrogen flouride gas.
Stevie.

[Colin Day]

I've vowed never to clean blood ever again after doing one job up a flight of stairs after a woman stood on a wine glass.... It cost me so much time and effort, and that was just disinfecting all my gear.... I couldn't get the stench out of it!

I've often thought of doing a Crime Scene course, but I'm a big wuss and can't stand the sight of blood anyway.... Bleurggggh!!!!

[Doctor Carpet (Ret'd)]

Three things:

1. Surely there is a difference in dealing with a blood stain caused by say a three year old having a nose bleed, and clearing up after a fight in a "crack" house or equivalent. Is full PPE really necessary in absolutely all cases? Is "cut,bag and bin" really necessary in the former case? I ask this point not because I know but simply because the general received wisdom on the forum never seems to discuss the range of blood stains we may face.

2. To avoid wick-back use a stain absorbing powder. Once you've cleaned up, apply the powder. Any wick-back goes into the  powder which client vacuums up the following day once completely dry. Second visits are no longer necessary.

3. Jim, I've never had a problem if a client goes down the insurance route if I have failed to remove a stain (blood or otherwise). I simply point out that if they do claim then my costs for attempting to remove the stain then become part of their claim, as does the cost for my insurance report. All the client will be out of pocket for will be their excess.

Roger

[clinton]

Got to agree

Is it going to be woth the job paul.maybe someone else has pased the job on as they didnt want it:

[Colin Day]

Roger, I must admit, it would depend on the severity of the blood stain whether or not I'd do it. But that job I did was just way out of my league and the only reason I didn't turn it down was because it was for a friend's friend! She said she'd lost a pint or a pint and a half.... And we all know that's nearly an arm full

When I was emptying the waste tank it was like rivers of blood and I'm sure that pouring it down the custy's drain must have been against some sort of regulations

[kinder clean]

Thx for the advice guys, all taken on board.

Colin, wasn't there a massive hepatitis outbreak linked with the local water supply down your neck of the woods not long ago ? 

Jim, I've just ordered a new tripple vac porty replacement and I'll dispose of the Powerflite at the local incinerator tomorrow.

P.S. I was going to go for a truck mount but luckily I read the thread on here about them being over rated. 

Thanks

Paul

[Colin Day]

Thx for the advice guys, all taken on board.

Colin, wasn't there a massive hepatitis outbreak linked with the local water supply down your neck of the woods not long ago ? 

Paul

My heart sank for a split second there you daft sod

[Doug Holloway]

Hi Guys

Stainpro is good for blood removal.

Blood removal will depend on whether a bond has formed in which case it will be a protein bond and difficult to remove.

Initially rinse with cold water, then try stainpro.

If problem persists , spray with enzyme product and leave for 20 mins  and then extract hot.

Blood contains a lot of iron, hence the rust remover, any HF you get your hands on will probably be dilute as it is a dangerous chemical in its concentrated form.

As for the bio hazard a common sense approach should be fine.

Cheers

Doug

[kinder clean]

I got a call this morning to say the main stain has wicked back ( I did warn the custy this might hasppen and to ring me if it did )

Do you think I could cure it using a rotary machine ( I've got an oreck orbitor ) with a terry towel wrapped around the bonnet and dampened with stainpro, or will I need to give it a steam clean again using less pressure and dry with a hair dryer.

Cheers

Paul

[Steve. Taylor]

Hi Paul had the same problem about a year ago the problem can often be the iron content in the blood you get it wet think its gone then back it comes.

TRY THIS:

 Damp towel warm iron with prochem rust remover ph 2.5 med heat on iron keep it moving for 10 15 seconds ( pay attention to were you leave the iron no one likes the shape of a rocket left in their carpet lol ) if the iron lets off steam hold it over stain and mist hairdryer to dry i found the key is dont get the backing wet just try to treat the top of the stain the pile dont know if that makes any sense but thats how i did it. The stain i had was only 3 - 4 inches in size

THE PROBLEM WITH BLOOD IS THE HIGH IRON CONTENT HENCE THE RUST REMOVER.

you may get lucky heres hoping.

Steve.

[Tom Bennett]

The amount of blod on this carpet, says to me that it will have gone through to the underlay. replaing this could prevent further problems with wicking.