[Roger Koh]

See these pictures - Fatliquoring Micro-Pigment (semi-Aniline) Leathers.

Fatliquoring to restore the leather structure integrity before restoring the leather finishes.

Thus double restoration: 1st Strata, the leather structure and 2nd strata, the leather finishes.

#1) Spray-on Fatliquoring.


#2) Spread-out Fatliquoring.



Roger Koh
Leather Doctor®

[LTT Leathercare]

Derek
Remember it is impossible to re fatliquor leather once it has been through the retanning process.    This has been checked out with many tanners over the years. 

When tanners and leather chemists speak about 'conditioning' they are talking about the level of moisture in the leather not the level of fat liquors.

You have a finished leather there and anything you apply will not get through to the leather anyway.  Re hydrate with moisture before you begin your recolour with BRIT and you will get good results.

[robert meldrum]

Hang on a sec Judy.................if you can rehydrate ( absorb moisture into the leather ) then you can re fatliquor ( absorb fatliquor into the leather structure )

[LTT Leathercare]

Fatliquors are a mixture of oils/waxes/fats etc. used to replace the 'natural oils' removed from the hide during tanning.  This is done during the retanning process.
These mixtures cannot be absorbed into the leather particularly through a leather finish.  If Rogers fatliquor is water based then all that is doing any work is the moisture.
 
Transpiration (the natural flow of moisture back and forth through leather) has to take place otherwise it is not leather.  Finishes have to allow for this process but they do not allow the absorption of fats/oils etc.

Every tannery has its own carefully balanced fatliquor mix which is used during the re tanning process.  If leather could be re fatliquored you would need to know the exact mix of these fats/oils to be able to do this process otherwise it would unbalance the oils/fats that were already in there. 

Hope this helps

[Roger Koh]

Hang on a sec Judy.................if you can rehydrate ( absorb moisture into the leather ) then you can re fatliquor ( absorb fatliquor into the leather structure )

You’re right!

"Can Hydrate = Can Re-Fatliquor"

Hydrator pH 3.3 > Fatliquor pH 5.0

See this fatliquor looks like fresh milk is spray-on after hydrating.

Fatliquor just like car engine oil - lubricates the fibers makes it flexible, soft with strength will eventually diminishes by evaporation - just like your engine oil, requires top-up!

Hard to understand what is fatliquoring - like to see a video from the Discovery Channel if it is allow here?



#1) Hydrate with a pH 3.3 Hydrator prior to spray-on Fatliquoring with a pH 5.0 Fatliquor.



#2) Spread it to penetrate (thereafter acidify the protein fiber below the leather isoelectric point with a rinse pH 3.0 helps hydrogen-bond the fats and the oils with no sticky residue on the leather surface)



#3) To achieve extra softness natural slow drying is preferred. 



#4) Restoring the leather structure to its original flexibility, softness and strength prior to restoring its aesthetic finishes for sight, feel and scent makes sense. This double restoration (structure & finishes) carries a 3 year warranty.



#5) Now, see those cracks one more time - no more cracks for the next 3 years (warranty)




Roger Koh
Leather Doctor®

[derek west]

roger
your advice was to fatliquer the chair, and now your saying rehydrate the chair and then fatliquer. :
which one is it?

also if you rehydrate the leather first, how will the leather be able to absorb the fat liquer?

questions i need answering before i investigate fatliquering some more.
derek

[Roger Koh]

If Rogers fatliquor is water based then all that is doing any work is the moisture.

The moisture that works prior to fatliquoring is the pH 3.3 Hydrator - that plum up the leather structure and separates the inter-fibrillary spaces.

Since it has no fats and oils, its empty water and when it’s dry again the fiber collapse and stick together - that will stiffen the leather further and when flex will crack.

Yes!
fatliquor5.0 is waterbased micro-emulsion - it means that the oil and fat molecules are encased by water droplets, that’s why you see all these whites like natural fresh milk.

When the fats and oils is hydrogen-bond with the protein fibers (just like magnet, unlike poles attracts) the water breaks free and wicks up.

This water can be squeeze out dry, but where are the oils and fats?

These oils and fats coats these millions of tiny fibril connecting hinges - to lubricate them so that the leather structure as a whole is soft, supple and strengthen for practical use.

This later water from the fatliquor breaks free and contribute its work by bringing out the foreign suspended soil particulates to the leather surface to be either wipe off when damp or erase-off when crispy dry.


Think carefully!

Do not make a mistake!

Not all water is good for leathers - it has to be leather-safe like pH 3.3 for the hydrator and the pH 3 for the rinse.

Leather-Safe first, then you wouldn’t be sorry when comes to sensitive leathers.

Why do most leather fashion garments cleaning instructions state: "DRY CLEAN ONLY"?

Roger Koh
Leather Doctor®

[Shaun_Ashmore]

Roger, Derek's chair is pigmented so coated and has little absorbancy you said that the picture above is semi aniline which is the opposite will pigmented leather not take fatlaquer so well?

Shaun

[Shaun_Ashmore]

Do you fatlaquer everything you clean Roger?

Shaun

[Roger Koh]

Roger, Derek's chair is pigmented so coated and has little absorbancy you said that the picture above is semi aniline which is the opposite will pigmented leather not take fatlaquer so well?

Shaun

Look!

What is this brown chair above that is drinking up the fatliquor?

By sight identification, what is the leather-type?

Roger Koh
Leather Doctor®

[Shaun_Ashmore]

So when we get creases in leather upholstery (which is what we do not clothes) we could/should clean the leather then apply a hydrator and then apply fatlquor which should remove all creases?

Shaun

[derek west]

surely its just drinking it up through those mammoth cracks and possibly not through the pigment!
derek

[Shaun_Ashmore]

Derek won't the capillary action draw the fatlaquor into the leather?

Shaun

[Roger Koh]

Hang on a sec Judy.................if you can rehydrate ( absorb moisture into the leather ) then you can re fatliquor ( absorb fatliquor into the leather structure )

>>>Do you fatlaquer everything you clean Roger?

>>>Shaun


--------------



Yes!

Every leather that is absorbent, I will fatliquor5.0 it, be it Nubuck, Suede, Woolskin or Hair-on.

Fatliquor is the lifeblood of leathers - replacing the blood that once run through the skin or hide when the animals were alive.

As Robert said...

Quote

"(absorb moisture into the leather ) then you can re fatliquor ( absorb fatliquor into the leather structure )"

Remember, fatliquor5.0 is for the leather structure 1st strata.

The 2nd strata finishes do not like the fatliquor5.0 to fool around on top.

But loves to embrace "Leather Scent Feel Conditioners" with pride that enhance the finishes with extra feel and the natural classic leather scent that charms.

 Roger Koh
Leather Doctor®

[derek west]

whoosh.
what
caterpillars, are they made of leather.
derek

[Shaun_Ashmore]

Only their shoes Derek.

Shaun

[derek west]

fk me, cost a fortune

funny thing today, i was in sports direct buying my 6 monthly pair of trainers and sore a box on the floor with.....
adidas trainers, left 1 size 6 and right 1 size 8. £5 to clear. what are the chances eh!
derek

[Shaun_Ashmore]

Roger on Picture 4 is that now recoloured because the cracks have gone but the clour is replaced?

Also will doing the re hydration and fat laquor remove all creases?

Shaun

[Shaun_Ashmore]

Derek when you take your lot to Sports Direct I bet it's the same thing, Mr.Ashley will be rubbing his hands think that Derek the catapilla has come and is paying him his lost money from his Newcastle investment.

Shaun

[Roger Koh]

roger
your advice was to fatliquer the chair, and now your saying rehydrate the chair and then fatliquer. :
which one is it?

also if you rehydrate the leather first, how will the leather be able to absorb the fat liquer?

questions i need answering before i investigate fatliquering some more.
derek

--------------------


The fatliquoring system comprises of:


1) Pre-fatliquoring - use a pH 3.3 hydrator

2) Fatliquoring - use a pH 5.0 fatliquor

3) Post-fatliquoring - use a pH 3.0 rinse


1) & 3) are optional (it has its reasons to be there to delivery the very best result of fatliquoring).


Think systematic!

Roger Koh
Leather Doctor®