[jikwan]

i reckon jef's got a point
everything depends on tapwater tds
im north of derby    tds is 152   which is pretty low

a few weeks back there was a discussion on this forum
about wfp in spain...........almost non existent because its too hot
and tds is 1200+  (if i remember right)

with 1200 tds youre going to have to change prefilters every week

scotland...(i believe)  generally below 40
if thats the case   no need to change filters so often
because theres hardly any minerals accumulated

another possible valid reason for changing filter is the material
used increasingly deteriorates  (dont they use coconut husk or something?

[Jeff Brimble]

If you have low tds like 50-70 you can remove the first pre filter an run with just 2 as long as you dont want to drink it.
Whats yout tds ?

[jikwan]

hi jeff,
tds is 152

[windowwashers]

I just changed my resin in di for4 the first time used it for a couple of weeks.


at what point tds do you guys change your resin?
I am probably being ott mine was 5ppm going into main tank afetr di

[Paul Coleman]

I just changed my resin in di for4 the first time used it for a couple of weeks.


at what point tds do you guys change your resin?
I am probably being ott mine was 5ppm going into main tank afetr di

Not sure if I've got this right but after juggling my kit around, I ended up with an extra DI cannister.  So I ended up with two DI cannisters after the RO.  This gives me a big margin for error.  What I now do is test the water after the RO once in a while and also test the water after the first DI.  When the water from the first DI has climbed to the same TDS level as after the RO. I reckon it's time to change the resin in the first cannister as it's no longer doing any purifying.  Occasionally, I will test the water going into the tank as well (after 2nd DI) as once in a blue moon, the 2nd DI will need changing too.  Just to cap it all, I also have a DI next to the van mount as well.  This is just for those rare occasions that I might need to top up with tap water to finish work a long way from home.
This may seem extravagant but it wasn't really planned that way.  However, I reckon the kit is more worthwhile to me than any money I would get for it second hand.

[windowwashers]

I just changed my resin in di for4 the first time used it for a couple of weeks.


at what point tds do you guys change your resin?
I am probably being ott mine was 5ppm going into main tank afetr di

Not sure if I've got this right but after juggling my kit around, I ended up with an extra DI cannister.  So I ended up with two DI cannisters after the RO.  This gives me a big margin for error.  What I now do is test the water after the RO once in a while and also test the water after the first DI.  When the water from the first DI has climbed to the same TDS level as after the RO. I reckon it's time to change the resin in the first cannister as it's no longer doing any purifying.  Occasionally, I will test the water going into the tank as well (after 2nd DI) as once in a blue moon, the 2nd DI will need changing too.  Just to cap it all, I also have a DI next to the van mount as well.  This is just for those rare occasions that I might need to top up with tap water to finish work a long way from home.
This may seem extravagant but it wasn't really planned that way.  However, I reckon the kit is more worthwhile to me than any money I would get for it second hand.

I think thats a very good thing, I might get another di, as better safe than spotty 

[gsw]

I just changed my resin in di for4 the first time used it for a couple of weeks.

I take it you are di only, after RO my resin lasts usually about 2.5  to 3 months thats with an after RO generally about 15 ppm  and pre filters about 370 ppm.

As for the inline meters dont use them they are completely unstable and give very misleading readings..... handheld is the way forward and at less than £15.00 its not even worth thinking about! after we have spent all this money on producing the water its worth knowing the systems are at least working properly!!