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paulchambers

  • Posts: 530
Antique chinese rugs
« on: September 14, 2004, 12:43:10 pm »
Just done a quote from a leaflet drop some 7 weeks ago.

When i did a dye test, the colours ran i tried 4 different chemicals with the same result so i had to decline the carpet clean even though i havent much work Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr.   Paul

Big_Fish

Re: Antique chinese rugs
« Reply #1 on: September 14, 2004, 03:07:07 pm »
I've sent you a PM
BFN

Derek

Re: Antique chinese rugs
« Reply #2 on: September 14, 2004, 07:38:10 pm »
Paul

What chemicals did you use in your tests?

Derek

paulchambers

  • Posts: 530
Re: Antique chinese rugs
« Reply #3 on: September 14, 2004, 08:58:59 pm »
Derek I tried Promite , ultimate master and two chemicals from craftex even plain water made the dye run. The chap told me they were antique and cost £7000 . I feel not doing them was the best thing to do   paul

Derek

Re: Antique chinese rugs
« Reply #4 on: September 15, 2004, 10:32:10 am »
Paul

Did you try an acidic cleaning agent?

Derek

paulchambers

  • Posts: 530
Re: Antique chinese rugs
« Reply #5 on: September 15, 2004, 12:23:52 pm »
Derek no i didnt try a acid cleaning agent    The dye movement worried me  Paul.

Dynafoam

Re: Antique chinese rugs
« Reply #6 on: September 15, 2004, 01:15:29 pm »
Paul,

Under the circumstances you did right to walk away.

However as Derek has intimated, an acidic cleaning agent may have been safe on these dyes.

I have frequently use an acid pre-spray as a dye stabiliser. This has enabled cleaning with a neutral or very mildly alkaline cleaner. The same dye stabiliser is then used as a post-spray to prevent dye bleed during the rapid-dry.

I would not have even considered Ultimate Master for these rugs.

paulchambers

  • Posts: 530
Re: Antique chinese rugs
« Reply #7 on: September 15, 2004, 02:08:18 pm »
Thanks for your comment, another lesson learnt, glad i walked away  john why would you not consider ultimate master,  Paul

Derek

Re: Antique chinese rugs
« Reply #8 on: September 15, 2004, 07:55:41 pm »
Hi Paul

I believe like Big Brother John you may well have been able to clean this rug on the acid side...
Chemspec's 'Colorfast for rugs' followed by acidic rinse would have possibly done the trick...subject to testing that is... if colour movement is really severe then a prespray with an acidic rinse agent is another option.

I would stay away from any alkaline product on items with a potential colour problem even those which are said to self neutralise.

Derek

mark_roberts

  • Posts: 1899
Re: Antique chinese rugs
« Reply #9 on: September 16, 2004, 01:46:59 am »
Would be interesting to see what the ph of your water is.

I tend to pass on rugs which run with water or acid rinse.  May try the chemspec route.

Mark

Dynafoam

Re: Antique chinese rugs
« Reply #10 on: September 16, 2004, 02:01:04 am »
Paul,

Though self-neutralising, the pH of the product in use is too high to be woolsafe, and it is the in-use pH that would affect the unstable dyes.

scott.

  • Posts: 482
Re: Antique chinese rugs
« Reply #11 on: September 17, 2004, 06:20:46 pm »
Isnt it the golden rule, that if theres a transfer with both the alciline and acid test....you run?...i would too
£7000...thats a lota dosh.

Derek

Re: Antique chinese rugs
« Reply #12 on: September 17, 2004, 07:46:32 pm »
Hi Scott

If the colour bleed tests prove positive with acid and alkali solutions then you could always consider a dry clean method!
Where there's a will there's a way.... or it may just be me trying to be a hero!

Derek

Dynafoam

Re: Antique chinese rugs
« Reply #13 on: September 18, 2004, 03:38:57 am »
Scott,

As 'The Wizard of Wigston' has suggested, lateral thinking can often come up with a solution.

I have even cleaned such a rug with alcohol in the past.

When being a hero, charge heroic prices.

paul@ctcs

Re: Antique chinese rugs
« Reply #14 on: September 18, 2004, 03:16:00 pm »
This may not work in this case and i wouldnt touch the rug myself but would interesting to hear from the cleanitup gods if the idea may be viable.
Would it be possible to mix a ph neutral micro splitter (solutions number 4) with an acidic rinse and then dilute to stabilse die bleed and still benefit from the micro splitters cleaning properties???

Just a thought Paul

Dynafoam

Re: Antique chinese rugs
« Reply #15 on: September 18, 2004, 03:32:18 pm »
Paul,

This is not an approch that I would advise.

The best approach is to:

  • First stabilise the dye.
    Test with a cleaning agent.
    If safe proceed with the clean.
    Re-stabilise (lock) the dye.


Dye stabilisation is not always a simple matter of pH and some stabilisers require a dwell-time to achieve  the effect. Mixing the cleaner with the stabiliser precludes this.

John.

paul@ctcs

Re: Antique chinese rugs
« Reply #16 on: September 18, 2004, 04:36:34 pm »
Thanks John, I expected the idea to get shot down.So to initially stabilise the die would you (providing the die in question is not acid sensitive) do this with an acidic rinse and then test with a cleaning agent which presumably would be pH neutral or very close?? Lastly would you then extract with acidic rinse??
I personally havent had to clean anything with this problem and would unless totally confident avoid it, but it would be good to know whats best.

Thanks Paul

Derek

Re: Antique chinese rugs
« Reply #17 on: September 18, 2004, 05:59:42 pm »
Hi Guys

Why mix a micro-spotter when you already have a Woolsafe approved acidic micro-splitter available.. I refer to One-Step Fineline

As John has said ...a little lateral thinking  ;)

Derek

paul@ctcs

Re: Antique chinese rugs
« Reply #18 on: September 18, 2004, 09:41:10 pm »
Didnt realise there was sush a thing ???
Until now!!
Thought Fine Line was pH neutral.

Paul

Dynafoam

Re: Antique chinese rugs
« Reply #19 on: September 18, 2004, 11:29:46 pm »
Paul,

There are many dye stabilisers that can be used - as I said the pH is not always the the critical factor at this stage though indeed most modern vagrant dyes will stabilise at the low end of the pH scale.

You have largely grasped the principal but the final stabiliser would normally be simply sprayed on. however I have cleaned items that required different stabilisers for different colours - in these cases the stabilisers would normally be applied before and after with a small stencil brush.