[*thomas james]

aaaaaaa

[Davew]

Yes I've seen it done before. A cleaner near me has an aluminium pole only that can go to forty odd feet if he uses all the sections. For the really low level stuff he simply removes the brush head and uses that on about a foot of gooseneck. A similar technique could easily be used with modular poles. I used my Superlight yesterday for third story work one handed easily so with just the taper section it's like a wand. However you have no scrubbing power really with this type of equipment so for first cleans I normally scrub like mad with an extender and a vikan sill brush.

[Davew]

Yep that's pretty much the same conclusion i've come to, I think telescopic glassfibre is only good to twelve feet (second floor). Iv'e said it before I really dislike my twenty four foot glassfibre. If it's all you have got then you won't know any difference. I like the idea of a very short wand for low level work too. Keep a lookout for discarded fishing poles or even look in Argos. I find a huge amount of effort is wasted just extending a pole (and i've got arms like legs!)

[Ian_Giles]

I've personally converted totally to the superlite, and won't be going back to a telescopic pole any time soon (Though there was one at the NEC...er...no, hang on....it was a carbon fibre modular By a Canadian with a pony tail, heavier than the superlite, lighter than the..sigh...whats the name of it?? The name has left my addled brain for the moment, but it is a telescopic carbon pole....)

Sorry! I digress

In use I've found the superlite absolutely top notch, but it does have it's downsides, namely it is very fragile, particularly the top sections.
I think the joints need to be toughened up, I'm intending to fibreglass the inside of the male sections of my own pole, only an inch or two, and on the female sections the outside could also be fibreglassed, only an inch or so, as it is this area that suffers the wear and tear the most.

I'm only going to use fibreglass because it is DIY, Alex from Gardiners sent me one end section (not part of the carbon pole) that fits onto the end of the superlite, the plastic angle joint is then attached to it.
This section is about two and a half feet long, I do a lot of shops so it is ideal to simply slip off and use as a short pole.
but an added bonus is that as it is the female part of the joint, it has a short rubber...er, flange over the end of the section, and this makes it really robust.

~In an ideal world I would love to see the female end sections have something similar, it would stop these thin end sections from fraying or splintering.

And I think that the male ends could have something similar on the internal edges of the pole, thereby reducing wear and tear.

It will be interesting to see how things develop, but lightweight poles are an absolute must!
whether modular or telescopic, the race is certainly on to produce lightweight options.
Prior to the superlite I used Unger poles, as these supply the pole hose on the outside of the pole, in use they are like a modular in that you disgard the sections you don't need, they give greater versatility that through the pole, but it isn't as tidy looking, and you have to deal with the hose flapping about, there are ways of dealing with that, but in use you don't bother as it adds time to what you are doing.

Ian

[Sir Squeaky]

I love the carbon modular.
It only takes a second to pop an extra section on or off.
I wouldn't be without it. Everything else would feel heavy now.

I agree with what Ian says, it does look like one day I'll crack it while connecting it though.

[Davew]

The main advantage with telescopic would be when a small adjustment in length is needed- something that can't be done with modular without changing the angle.

[Davew]

Thompson Reload coming my way this week.

[Davew]

Exactly I already have the Superlight from Gardiners - a brilliant pole but too good/expensive/delicate in my opinion for every day domestic work. Telescopic poles use far too much energy dragging the pipe through when extending and too much friction at the clamps all day long. Bearing in mind I'm no expert and have only been doing this for three months but I'm learning all the time but I can't believe everyone has put up with this for so long. It could be that wfp is used primarily for commercial work where the poles are not extended/collapsed so many times.

[matt]

im ordering tomorrow

i will give a write up about it in the next few days

[Jeff Brimble]

Perhaps I should try to explain just how I clean windows. Its not a subject I have done before well not since modular. Excuse me but early start, back tomorrow. Have enjoyed sitting back watching though.  

[supernova77]

I love the carbon modular.
It only takes a second to pop an extra section on or off.
I wouldn't be without it. Everything else would feel heavy now.

I agree with what Ian says, it does look like one day I'll crack it while connecting it though.

WOW - A year ago who would of imagined Squeaky ever saying something like that!



Andy

[Sir Squeaky]

  It is quite funny isn't it?

[AuRavelling79]

I agree with Ian - I went from Unger aluminium to carbon fibre modular about when he did seven weeks ago (with out knowing it by the way) and it is so much easier.

They are more brittle and I've reinforced my ends with duct tape.

When I dropped mine from second floor onto steps the thin top end snapped - I immediately, on the spot sawed the jagged ends off, epoxy-resin'd the ends, pushed them in and repaired them with duct tape and it's been good for the past six weeks back as my top section and downstairs pole.

I have a 12ft fibreglass but only use it on domestic properties which are low second floor and have no conservatories/extensions to reach over.

[Peter Fogwill]

Interesting thread. 

I have developed a new pole with reported 20% to 50% overall time saving on modular or clamped poles.  It has been discussed over at the window-tools forum under the heading of "What percentage at what height?" in the water fed pole section.

Although I have not disclosed how the pole actually works, I will still be interested in any feedback.

I will have them with me for trial at the fed trade show.

Peter

[NWH]

That poles not made of Ali i hope.

[Davew]

Tried something slightly different today, I used my Superlight for nearly everything (including a gutter glean  ) but then hand held the gooseneck for the groundfloor stuff it seemed ok with no worries of fouling the pole top on anything.

[Jeff Brimble]

Dave did you notice, its when you get the gooseneck/angle adjuster back to ground you realise that you need a brush head adjustement  that is flexible and can be adjusted/tilted or hinged to adress the glass atb the correct angle, whatever that may be, and that a "fixed" head is not so good  ?

[Jeff Brimble]

Peter,
gleaned  from your forum. As usual you have thought the problem through and come up with one of your  brilliantly simple ideas for an everyday pole that is a staggeringly major step forward( with a bit of adjustment) . Its may not be for everybody but for pure innovation it will have most of the suppliers on their toes. Maybe I wouldnt launch it at the show but make everyone wait for the Mark 11 or 111 version.

[trevor perry]

hi peter
       will you be selling this new pole at the fed show or have you just got a prototype there for demo if it is just demo how long do you think it will be before your selling them, i need two poles pretty soon so will try to hold out till your new ones are here.

[Jeff Brimble]

I am starting to write up how I use the modular poles over on Matts site http://d.co.uk/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=558 Its going to take a bit more time to complete.
Some may find this boring but here goes,

How I use light Modular Poles.

I will add to this bit at a time as I as I go. I am sure many would do it different. Hope its of some use to those that dont yet grasp the modular bit.

I lift the electric trolley from the back of the car, put 4 sections of the modular Ron Thompson reload onto the open golf bag carrier brackets of the trolley. Then power it to the furthest mid point position of the house. If the glass beads I clean the bottoms very quickly with the No 3 glass fibre section or pull off the brush head and use it in my hand which can often be quicker especially with georgians as your wrist does a better job than any elbow joint.
I then simply take the other poles as needed from the trolley and push fit 2,3 or 4 modular tapered poles into the No3 30” handle section unrolling the silicon ¼” hose as needed and clean the upstairs windows at the back. I adjust the brush angle manually with a flick of my hand to get the brush bristles pointing slightly upwards to allow the dirty water to flow to the back of the brush head and drop off clear of the glass.
On beading glass by the time I have quickly done them I go back to the first upstairs window and flash rinse with the brush on the glass. I do not touch the frames unless they are paying extra. The gap in the bristles and the splay allows very precise cutting in to the frames tops, sides or corners.
With the pole upright over my left shoulder I proceed to the sides and clean the upstairs. Droping the pole horizontally is done in 1 second and I remove the push fit brush head complete with the No3 section and fast clean the bottoms. I put the No3 and the rest of the pole in my left hand and move the trolley round the front dragging the light hose with me. I then do the bottoms and then fix the hand section onto the rest of the pole and lift into position in 1 second and clean the upstairs. As I finish cleaning I hold the pole upright with one hand and drop the base section of the pole into the golf cart with the other hand, , followed bye other sections and fit the brush into its own little holder. I then fast wind the hose into the hozebox put a card through the door.
I often carry the pole facing forward like a lance iover my arm a bit like a coat , nstead of over my shoulder as you can see where you are going and not banging it on the house or trees etc. This allows you to easily duck it under washing lines etc.
As I said this is for beading glass. So I now nip round the back and if the glass is the sort that I know from experience will dry spotty I blade the glass I can reach. I do not detail as there is no need, I tend to do vertical strokes and wipe one edge of the blade. For Patio doors you can lightly fan the glass.

House No2 Sheets OK so this time I do the upstairs first then pull a bit of the hose out and do the side. Then move the trolley to the side of the house take the top section off the pole usually dropping it roughly on the floor or standing it up against a down spout if anyone could stand it. Some times I will throw it to wherever I am working next like a light spear.
Having a hose reel is a must for any set up