Is the constructor faster in everyday usage? If so how?
What is the difference between a constructor brush and any other brush with a rinse bar added to it in real terms?
Hi Paul,
The Constructor brush first off is now a 'contradiction'. In the early days, Constructor brush arrived in parts, with differing bristles. The idea was that you could specifically 'build' the brush to your needs. Today things have changed. Apart from the macro design changes in stock angles the brush arrives 'made up'. But you can still change out things and 're-build' if you wanted to.
When it comes to the Constructor brush with Hydroblade, I advise you not to touch a thing. It has been set up to work as is.
The first thing to compare is the bristles. The bristles form more of a blade and they are angled and positioned in their rows in such a way that it causes the pure water to act in a certain way. On other brushes, the bristles are clustered in rows with gaps between each cluster. I think the technical term in brush making is 'knots'.
These type of brushes are made exactly the same as a broom or sweeping brush is made, holes are punched at breakneck speeds and instantly populated with bristles or knots.
The bristles are made differently on the Constructor. There are no gaps, and no huge 'knots'. On the Hydroblade model, different bristles do different work.
I digress here for a moment, I just thought of another advantage of these Constructor bristles... with my other brushes whether it be Tucker, Gardiner or whatever... when the bristles become worn I had to buy the whole thing to replace. Don't get me wrong, I would use them far past the time I should of sometimes, but that's the risk you take. To fix this I would have to buy a whole new brush.
In a world where throw away plastics is causing a major problem in our seas to the extent that microplastic is working its way back to the food and water you eat and drink daily, perhaps its time to consider our involvement in that.
I digress further... I'm just as bad at throwaway plastic - (
this has nothing to do with Constructor brush btw) but seeing the news, the rubbish in the country lanes and on our beaches, I think about this more. I popped down to Makro the other week to buy coffee/tea/milk and cups and plastic spoons for the office. I made a conscious effort to buy wood stirrers instead of plastic spoons. Just the tiniest things like that can help. And a start, I hope I continue to think like this.
Back to bristles - On the Constructor brush, if say the corner bristles have worn badly, you can just pop them out and buy replacements for a few quid! Just like changing a squeegee rubber - although you are going to need a screwdriver and probably best do it the night before work especially if you have not changed out a set of bristles before.
Back to how the Constructor brusk works with the hydro blade ... Let's talk about rinse bars - I was corrected by using the term 'rinse bar' for the Constructor brush and that the term is 'hydro blade'.
OK, I'm not fussed what to call it 
The hydro blade is not just a tube with holes drilled in randomly like most, the diameter of the cannons, the angle and the distance between canons are designed to create a constant flow just above the bristles in such a way. A lot of 3D printing and testing went on to get the right flow to work with the bristles. There are two cannons either side to take care of the corners, with the corner bristles ensuring no spots in the corner.
I will try and film what happens but on the down stroke, the Constructor brush creates a tumble effect ( it traps the water and scrapes it down the glass). The tightly knit blades drag dirty water from the glass, which reduces the amount of time needed to agitate ( assuming zero TDS water) leaving behind only pure water.
Test: Try the constructor brush and hydro blade on Hydrophobic glass and see if a hydrophilic effect follows the brush.
I have tested this out on a couple first cleans with great results in less time it takes me to clean the old way.
On maintenance cleans, like monthly residential, it feels like your cheating because part of the learning process and way of using this brush is to resist the need to rinse.
You will put yourself through a learning curve of worry for about a day as well, you will be checking your work worried, 'it surely cannot clean as well and as quick', and you will waste time working that out to re-assure yourself.
You will worry that limited up strokes and down strokes, with no final rinse will provide a poor job, but it does not.
To get the best out of the brush further you have to think and treat the brush like a squeegee. Yep... bet you pulled a face reading that part, but its true. I have not quite got to using the Reach-iT technique just yet as most my windows are smaller than I have seen the Reach-iT technique demonstrated on. But I do use this brush like a squeegee knowing I am pulling dirty off and not trying to rub it into oblivion.
When you mop over a window to squeegee up, how many time do you go over the glass with your mop? Once? Twice? For me its once if its maintenance.
I bet it's not 5 or 6 times right, like you may be doing on Hydrophobic glass with your water fed pole.
Constructor brush with hydro blade acts like a squeegee pulling the dirt off the glass. No other brush does this. My testing continues, but I understand how this brush works and compares to your existing brush and I have been shocked at the time saved so far. I am still working with it although the office is keeping me off the tools lately.
My goal is to complete a time span with using the brush, write about my experience more than likely film parts of it and then work out how I am going to explain this to my employees.
