[chris turner]

What is the best glue for clamps?
I'm finding the twisting action to turn water on/off with the gooseneck valve keeps causing the top clamp to come loose.
Tried gorilla glue but it only lasted a week and now loose again.

[Tony dunmall]

When I used hot water, clamps came of a lot, now I never glue I use one wrap insulation tape don't over lap it I normally cut neatly with a blade

Then slightly wiggle on the clamp turn it upside down and tap clamp on floor until it's on and level then with blade trim of the excess tape

Voila they stay on longer than glue, whether it will last with turn action of there on/off I don't know

Hope that helps 

[֍Winp®oClean֍]

Two part epoxy resin Halfords- never had one come loose again.

[P @ F]

Exactly the same as Tony , 1 wrap only or it will pucker up , i have only used glue once in 12 years , on a facelift 42 , it was 2 part araldite , been on 10 year so far , bound to fall off in the morning though , just my luck !!!

Rich

[chris turner]

Don't think tape will do it with the gooseneck valve on.
I used gorilla 2 part epoxy glue a while ago but the clamp still came loose after 6 weeks or so.
Is there anything stronger that could handle the constant turning under pressure?

[Splash & dash]

Two pack evo stick or aroldite works well

[Simon Trapani]

Are you 'keying' up both surfaces enough to create a good bond?

I've had a few come loose over the years but 2 part epoxy does it for me. Only £1 at my local store.

[Plankton]

Araldite Rapid (5 Min)
Didn't have much luck with the gardiners sachets a while back. The Araldite two part glue was recommended on here and I've never had an issue since ( maybe 2 years+) Just take the time to prepare the surfaces.

[chris turner]

Araldite it is then.

[Jonny 87]

Two part epoxy resin.

Use the right stuff and it goes harder than the plastic itself.

[Alex Gardiner]

On the rare occasion that a clamp body comes unglued the key to successfully bonding them back on is the preparation of the surfaces. I would recommend the following steps:

1. Remove any old loose glue from surface (inside of clamp body and outside of section)
2. Thoroughly abrade both surfaces to provide a good 'key' for the glue
3. Clean and de-grease both surfaces, ideally using Isopropanol
4. Allow to fully dry - may need application of heat if the pole was wet before starting
5. Apply the epoxy two-pack glue to both surfaces and then twist them together firmly ensuring good connection of both glue surfaces
6. Wipe off excess glue from the outside
7. Allow to fully dry and then with a sharp knife point scrape off any dried excess glue from the side seam joint

We would usually recommend one of the glues that we sell - particularly the two pack flexible black epoxy glue - this is well suited to binding carbon tube to nylon. If you need to pick something up locally then Araldite Rapid also works well.

[chris turner]

On the rare occasion that a clamp body comes unglued the key to successfully bonding them back on is the preparation of the surfaces. I would recommend the following steps:

1. Remove any old loose glue from surface (inside of clamp body and outside of section)
2. Thoroughly abrade both surfaces to provide a good 'key' for the glue
3. Clean and de-grease both surfaces, ideally using Isopropanol
4. Allow to fully dry - may need application of heat if the pole was wet before starting
5. Apply the epoxy two-pack glue to both surfaces and then twist them together firmly ensuring good connection of both glue surfaces
6. Wipe off excess glue from the outside
7. Allow to fully dry and then with a sharp knife point scrape off any dried excess glue from the side seam joint

We would usually recommend one of the glues that we sell - particularly the two pack flexible black epoxy glue - this is well suited to binding carbon tube to nylon. If you need to pick something up locally then Araldite Rapid also works well.

Great stuff cheers Alex.
I must admit my prep work before glueing has been minimal so i shall follow these guidelines in future.