[8weekly]

I have a Merlin RO and a Clarke pump with no auto shut off. I'm trying to find the best way to automate the IBC filling process. I don't want to buy a new pump as the one I've got is less than a year old and was just wondering if anyone knew a relatively inexpensive piece of equipment to automate the process. I have found an auto shut off for the pump I have.

 Gardiner have this, but it's a bit pricey for a non essential purchase.
http://gardinerpolesystems.co.uk/poles-systems/system-pump-controls/system-controllers/liquid-logic-trade-s2-static-ro-system-booster-pump-control.html

[Spruce]

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/float-switch-230v-2m-cable?da=1&TC=SRC-float%20switch

As the Merlin has its own shut off valve, the would have to fix this so it will switch the pump off much sooner than the merlin switches off. The other option is remove the ball valve in the tank and fit a 230v normally off solenoid valve so they will both switch off together.

This float switch is the same as that used on a submersible pump, it's just wired differently so it works the other way round.

Another option is this

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/clarke-epc800-electronic-water-pump-control-un

[8weekly]

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/float-switch-230v-2m-cable?da=1&TC=SRC-float%20switch

As the Merlin has its own shut off valve, the would have to fix this so it will switch the pump off much sooner than the merlin switches off. The other option is remove the ball valve in the tank and fit a 230v normally off solenoid valve so they will both switch off together.

This float switch is the same as that used on a submersible pump, it's just wired differently so it works the other way round.

Another option is this

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/clarke-epc800-electronic-water-pump-control-un

Thanks Spruce, the Clarke epc 800 is a good solution for stopping the pump, but how do I get the water to shut off once the tank is full?

[Mike #1]

I normally use my wife i quick text  Turn Tap Off  works every time 

[Shane sharples]

I normally use my wife i quick text  Turn Tap Off  works every time 

Lmao me too! I send her a txt saying 'check my water please' 

[8weekly]

I normally use my wife i quick text  Turn Tap Off  works every time 

We re going on holiday and I disagreeistant will be responsible for water production. 

[philip.parkin@talk21.com]

I have a merlin that I auto shut off with a float switch in the tank and a 12v solanoid on the inlet pipe.

[Walter Mitty]

I have had auto shut off let me down before when a little dirt got in (god knows where from as I didn't set it up).  This caused a flood.
So now I use two shut offs that are independent from each other.
1)  I have a manual float valve arrangement in the tank that stops the tank filling beyond a certain height

however, water still runs to waste so I also have

2) one of these fitted to the tap.  They run on batteries.

http://www.garden4less.co.uk/hozelock-ac-pro-control-water-timer.asp?partner=fr&partner=Sh&gclid=CJz-iaXm3MYCFdGWtAodNpsPSQ

The batteries can last for two years between changes if you get a decent brand.  The item can be ordered through Screwfix.  Unlike many similar devices, you can set it to run for 24 hours before shut off (not tried in but it may even be possible to run it for 48 hours in "boost" mode).  10-12 hours is normally fine for me as I have a 40" RO.
Although I reckon that some on here might rubbish it, I have found it to be a viable method for an unpumped, static system.  It's worked just fine for 3 years.  Although I have low water pressure (37-40 psi), the low pressure 4040 membrane has held up well and is still producing at 008 TDS (I use resin to polish).

[Spruce]

Another local windie has only ever had Merlins. As has been said, he fitted a ball valve on the pure inet to his IBC tank. Has never given any trouble.

The Merlin was designed as an under counter r/o connected to a faucet in an American kitchen . Open the faucet and the r/o starts producing 'pure' after a while. Switch off the faucet and the r/o switches off.

[Spruce]

I have had auto shut off let me down before when a little dirt got in (god knows where from as I didn't set it up).  This caused a flood.
So now I use two shut offs that are independent from each other.
1)  I have a manual float valve arrangement in the tank that stops the tank filling beyond a certain height

however, water still runs to waste so I also have

2) one of these fitted to the tap.  They run on batteries.

http://www.garden4less.co.uk/hozelock-ac-pro-control-water-timer.asp?partner=fr&partner=Sh&gclid=CJz-iaXm3MYCFdGWtAodNpsPSQ

The batteries can last for two years between changes if you get a decent brand.  The item can be ordered through Screwfix.  Unlike many similar devices, you can set it to run for 24 hours before shut off (not tried in but it may even be possible to run it for 48 hours in "boost" mode).  10-12 hours is normally fine for me as I have a 40" RO.
Although I reckon that some on here might rubbish it, I have found it to be a viable method for an unpumped, static system.  It's worked just fine for 3 years.  Although I have low water pressure (37-40 psi), the low pressure 4040 membrane has held up well and is still producing at 008 TDS (I use resin to polish).

Can happen. This is why I have fitted an overflow pipe on my IBC tank. Its been used once in 8 years when the float switch failed to operate. That was my fault, not an equipment failure.

[Walter Mitty]

I have had auto shut off let me down before when a little dirt got in (god knows where from as I didn't set it up).  This caused a flood.
So now I use two shut offs that are independent from each other.
1)  I have a manual float valve arrangement in the tank that stops the tank filling beyond a certain height

however, water still runs to waste so I also have

2) one of these fitted to the tap.  They run on batteries.

http://www.garden4less.co.uk/hozelock-ac-pro-control-water-timer.asp?partner=fr&partner=Sh&gclid=CJz-iaXm3MYCFdGWtAodNpsPSQ

The batteries can last for two years between changes if you get a decent brand.  The item can be ordered through Screwfix.  Unlike many similar devices, you can set it to run for 24 hours before shut off (not tried in but it may even be possible to run it for 48 hours in "boost" mode).  10-12 hours is normally fine for me as I have a 40" RO.
Although I reckon that some on here might rubbish it, I have found it to be a viable method for an unpumped, static system.  It's worked just fine for 3 years.  Although I have low water pressure (37-40 psi), the low pressure 4040 membrane has held up well and is still producing at 008 TDS (I use resin to polish).

Can happen. This is why I have fitted an overflow pipe on my IBC tank. Its been used once in 8 years when the float switch failed to operate. That was my fault, not an equipment failure.

Overflow sounds good.  It would use a lot of water though if not around for a couple of days - but obviously still better than flooding.  I've just sort of got used to the idea of the timer device on the tap and using an unpumped setup.  I know it's an unusual solution but whatever works, eh?
Also, aren't you supposed to have a break tank with a pumped system?  I know many don't bother but I thought the regulations were that this should happen. At least with an unpumped system that ought not be a problem (if I've understood this correctly).

[8weekly]

Another local windie has only ever had Merlins. As has been said, he fitted a ball valve on the pure inet to his IBC tank. Has never given any trouble.

The Merlin was designed as an under counter r/o connected to a faucet in an American kitchen . Open the faucet and the r/o starts producing 'pure' after a while. Switch off the faucet and the r/o switches off.

We have poor pressure and a pump is pretty much essential to reduce the out put tds and to produce enough water.

[Spruce]

I have had auto shut off let me down before when a little dirt got in (god knows where from as I didn't set it up).  This caused a flood.
So now I use two shut offs that are independent from each other.
1)  I have a manual float valve arrangement in the tank that stops the tank filling beyond a certain height

however, water still runs to waste so I also have

2) one of these fitted to the tap.  They run on batteries.

http://www.garden4less.co.uk/hozelock-ac-pro-control-water-timer.asp?partner=fr&partner=Sh&gclid=CJz-iaXm3MYCFdGWtAodNpsPSQ

The batteries can last for two years between changes if you get a decent brand.  The item can be ordered through Screwfix.  Unlike many similar devices, you can set it to run for 24 hours before shut off (not tried in but it may even be possible to run it for 48 hours in "boost" mode).  10-12 hours is normally fine for me as I have a 40" RO.
Although I reckon that some on here might rubbish it, I have found it to be a viable method for an unpumped, static system.  It's worked just fine for 3 years.  Although I have low water pressure (37-40 psi), the low pressure 4040 membrane has held up well and is still producing at 008 TDS (I use resin to polish).

Can happen. This is why I have fitted an overflow pipe on my IBC tank. Its been used once in 8 years when the float switch failed to operate. That was my fault, not an equipment failure.

Overflow sounds good.  It would use a lot of water though if not around for a couple of days - but obviously still better than flooding.  I've just sort of got used to the idea of the timer device on the tap and using an unpumped setup.  I know it's an unusual solution but whatever works, eh?
Also, aren't you supposed to have a break tank with a pumped system?  I know many don't bother but I thought the regulations were that this should happen. At least with an unpumped system that ought not be a problem (if I've understood this correctly).

This is correct.  But then each person who has a Salamander pump on their shower is also  breaking the regulations.

I think the only time this will create a problem is if you are causing an issue with neighbour's water flow.

[8weekly]

Just an update. I now have a controller on the pump all working. I fitted one of these.

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/clarke-epc800-electronic-water-pump-control-un

What is the most cost effective way and also simple to stop the tap when the tank is full. Can someone provide a link. I want it automated so that when we fill the tank in the van, the IBC fills and  the water stops when full.

I am going on holiday & I want it idiot proof for my member of staff.

[Spruce]

Just an update. I now have a controller on the pump all working. I fitted one of these.

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/clarke-epc800-electronic-water-pump-control-un

What is the most cost effective way and also simple to stop the tap when the tank is full. Can someone provide a link. I want it automated so that when we fill the tank in the van, the IBC fills and  the water stops when full.

I am going on holiday & I want it idiot proof for my member of staff.

............. this thread should help you.

http://www.cleanitup.co.uk/smf/index.php?topic=195277.msg1696432#msg1696432

[8weekly]

Just an update. I now have a controller on the pump all working. I fitted one of these.

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/clarke-epc800-electronic-water-pump-control-un

What is the most cost effective way and also simple to stop the tap when the tank is full. Can someone provide a link. I want it automated so that when we fill the tank in the van, the IBC fills and  the water stops when full.

I am going on holiday & I want it idiot proof for my member of staff.

............. this thread should help you.

http://www.cleanitup.co.uk/smf/index.php?topic=195277.msg1696432#msg1696432

Gulp! That looks way beyond my level of expertise. 

Brilliant solution. Thank you Spruce, it's just too complicated for me.

[Spruce]

A fellow windie once asked me for a wiring diagram to connect this float switch to a solenoid valve. I forwarded this:

Think about your bedside lamp. There will be a cable with a plug that you plug into the socket on the wall. Somewhere along that cable will be a switch so you can switch your light on and off. From the switch is another cable to the bulb. From the bulb there is another wire that runs all the way back to the negative or neutral of the plug.

So when you switch the light off you are ‘cutting’ or ‘breaking’ or ‘interrupting’  the positive wire of the electrical circuit . An electrical circuit is like a ball or a circle. For the light to work there has to be a round circuit (or the circuit has to be completed) with no breaks. The switch either makes the circuit ( light on) or breaks the circuit ( light off.)



The solenoid valve is like the light bulb. If you wired it directly to the plug (all 3 wires) and switched the plug on, a normally closed solenoid valve would switch on and the valve will open.
If you switch it off then the circuit is broken and the solenoid switches off and the water flow through it stops.

For this to happen automatically you have to interrupt the positive to the solenoid and connect in a float switch similar to the switch on your bedside lamp. 

I have drawn up a wiring diagram for you and have attached it. The drawing is terrible, sorry. It should be self explanatory.

To make all the joins safely you can use a 6 terminal junction box.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/20a-6-terminal-heavy-duty-junction-box-black/2195d

So it would look like this.

Terminal 1  - join the brown + wire from the plug to float switch also brown.

Terminal 2 – join the + (could be red or brown) from the solenoid valve to the blue of the float switch.

Terminal 3 – join the Neutral or – wire from the plug to the Neutral or – from the solenoid valve.

Terminal 4 – join the earth from the plug to the earth of the solenoid valve.

Terminal 5 – use this terminal to make the black wire safe. No other wire will be joined to it.

Terminal 6 – not used.


There are 2 types of solenoid valves – normally open or normally closed. You need the normally closed for this to work. What happens with a normally closed valve is that it is only open when you switch the power on. When you switch the power off it closes.

[Spruce]

Just an update. I now have a controller on the pump all working. I fitted one of these.

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/clarke-epc800-electronic-water-pump-control-un

What is the most cost effective way and also simple to stop the tap when the tank is full. Can someone provide a link. I want it automated so that when we fill the tank in the van, the IBC fills and  the water stops when full.

I am going on holiday & I want it idiot proof for my member of staff.

............. this thread should help you.

http://www.cleanitup.co.uk/smf/index.php?topic=195277.msg1696432#msg1696432

Gulp! That looks way beyond my level of expertise. 

Brilliant solution. Thank you Spruce, it's just too complicated for me.

You plumbed in that electronic controller and then you tell us this is too complicated 

If you look at it step by step it isn't complicated. trust me.   

[8weekly]

I take your point. I will study this. I did feel quite pleased with myself getting the controller working without any fuss at all. 

[Spruce]

I take your point. I will study this. I did feel quite pleased with myself getting the controller working without any fuss at all. 

 

This has managed the refilling of my IBC tank automatically for many years now. I don't have to worry when one of the lads draws water off. It just automatically replenishes it.

What I like about this is that the float switch isn't sensitive to the water level in the IBC tank either. So if I draw 100 liters from the IBC tank it won't switch the r/o on. If I draw another 100 liters it will. An r/o works most efficiently when it's working for long periods, so this system doesn't have the r/o working for short bursts.