you will need battery isolator switch or clamp that goes on negative terminal.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal-Car-Heavy-Duty-Battery-Disconnect-Switch-Isolator-Cut-off-Switch-W066-/370699015960?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item564f621718
forgot to mention that i fitted ctek charger leads with a quick connect plug.
Doing this has saved a few chargers for me as I would connect the terminals up incorrectly sometime down the line.
Battery terminal isolator is a good idea - I've never seen one before TBH. But the problem is that I have an Eberspacher digital programmer powered by the leisure battery which is a pain to reprogram, especially as I boost charge my leisure battery every second day.
We have just found that the Durite VSR is also bi-directional. So if anyone has one of either of these VSR's then they need to remove a battery terminal or remove the battery completely from the van to supplementary charge it.
With further experimentation this morning early, I have found that the VSR sensor is deactivated by removing the VSR earth flylead. So I'm going to order a splashproof rocker switch and fit it to this flylead and switch it off (open the circuit) when charging my leisure battery in situ.
I also found that with the leisure battery isolated, my charger kicked out after 10 minutes to tell me that the leisure battery was fully charged.
I then put the same charger on my van battery and it kicked out in 30 minutes to tell me that it was fully charged. I then connected up the VSR and switched the charger back on to charge the van battery and a charging voltage was also registering across the leisure battery. But my charger registered that my van battery was only 75% charged and nothing changed after the charger was on for an hour. Who can explain that?