[Chris - CBWC]

Before you read, it's fair to warn you that I like to put some research in first to try and understand it all first, and as such, I tend to ask a lot of (often specific) questions and probably looks a lot like OCD.  In my defence, I want to get this right first time.  On with my potential shopping list and questions, and very many thanks for your help.


Pole:
SLX-II 22 with a Resi-Neck - I don't think I need a long gooseneck, would it be wise to get one as well as the resi just in case?  You never know what new work you're going to pick up.  Should I also get a swivel resi neck, or get the swivel in place of the standard resi?  I'm asking because I have houses where I can't get directly under/in line with the window, due bushes, trees etc - is this where you would stand at an angle to the window but swivel the brush so it's still in line with the frames and window?



Brush:
Super-Lite Radius-Sill Brush Dual-Trim Medium-Mixed Bristles - medium rather than the stiff, I don't know why though!

Is there a better brush for leaded windows?  Should I use a second, different brush for cleaning gutters and fascia/soffits?  Like a softer variant maybe.  I don't think I have any lead cladding to worry about but what I DO have is houses with wooden frames in poor condition and badly flaking paint - nightmare for WFP brushes?



Goosenecks & Pole Fittings:
Mentioned above with the pole, presumably this will be trial and error as to what I may or may not need?  They all seem interchangeable.



End Caps:
The SLX-II 22 is a 5 section pole, so is the smaller (i.e the highest when fully extended) section number 5?  I can't see me using it fully extended all the time but would I need an end cap for each section just in case?  I don't know how many of the sections I will need for standard first floor windows.



Flow Control Valve:
Assuming I do get the 6mm Microbore below, I will then need a John Guest 8mm stem to 6mm Barb to be able to fit the Push Fit Quick-Fit pole control valve, OR I can get the EZ-Snap™ Hose Valve with End-Stop as it fits both 6mm and 8mm - I've seen quite a few recommendations for the EZ Snap products.



TDS Meter:
Wow three different types!  Do you test your water before you leave for work every morning to make sure the ppm is low enough/zero?  I don't know which out of the three is best, whether you spray the water over it, or hook it up to the system so that the water always passes through it, thus giving you a readout whenever you want one?



Hose:
100m of 6mm Microbore - what are the implications of this over the 8mm Minibore with regards to usage, weight and the various connectors?



Hose Couplings:
I simply do not know where to start here, so any advice based on the below and above items will help me!



Hose Reel:
Premium Lightweight Metal Freestanding Microbore Hose Reel - is a hoselock necessary? As this doesn't appear to come with one.  My 100m hose will hopefully mean the reel will always stay in the van.



Hose Reel Fittings:
Aquastop Female End-Stop Fitting for Microbore/Minibore Hose - will I need this?

Hozelock Type Brass Hose Reel Fitting - Swivel Elbow - or this?



Gloves:
Haha don't worry, there are loads of threads about gloves on here for me to read through first.  I've been used to wearing two pairs of woolly gloves for my trad work as I don't really get them wet, I suspect this will change with WFP!


That is 'all'.  Thank you guys

[bobplum]

you will never get it right first time......so im out
good luck

[PoleKing]

Spruce will be along any time now.
You won't get a more concise reply, just wait...

[Alex Gardiner]

Please see my answers below  

Pole:
SLX-II 22 with a Resi-Neck - I don't think I need a long gooseneck, would it be wise to get one as well as the resi just in case?  You never know what new work you're going to pick up.  Should I also get a swivel resi neck, or get the swivel in place of the standard resi?  I'm asking because I have houses where I can't get directly under/in line with the window, due bushes, trees etc - is this where you would stand at an angle to the window but swivel the brush so it's still in line with the frames and window?

If you start off with a Resi-Neck you can always add another gooseneck later as they are interchangeable. Personally I prefer the 10" reach as it allows me to get over deep sills. The swivels are very good, but are an acquired taste - some love them and would not work with anything else others hate them - the do allow you to clean at an angle but keep the brush square to the glass.



Brush:
Super-Lite Radius-Sill Brush Dual-Trim Medium-Mixed Bristles - medium rather than the stiff, I don't know why though! Unless you are using hot water the medium is best suited to most work.

Is there a better brush for leaded windows? Yes the Medium-Mixed or Flocked 0° brush is better for leaded.  Should I use a second, different brush for cleaning gutters and fascia/soffits?  Like a softer variant maybe.  I don't think I have any lead cladding to worry about but what I DO have is houses with wooden frames in poor condition and badly flaking paint - nightmare for WFP brushes?



Goosenecks & Pole Fittings:
Mentioned above with the pole, presumably this will be trial and error as to what I may or may not need?  They all seem interchangeable. They are all interchangeable and using them is the best way to find out what you like. I would say a resi-neck and a 10" would be a good starting point.



End Caps:
The SLX-II 22 is a 5 section pole, so is the smaller (i.e the highest when fully extended) section number 5?  I can't see me using it fully extended all the time but would I need an end cap for each section just in case?  I don't know how many of the sections I will need for standard first floor windows. The top section (smallest) is the No.1 section. The pole generally would be used with all sections fitted (as it comes). As the pole is so light there is no need to remove any of these section for standard use, just close them down when not needed.



Flow Control Valve:
Assuming I do get the 6mm Microbore below, I will then need a John Guest 8mm stem to 6mm Barb to be able to fit the Push Fit Quick-Fit pole control valve, OR I can get the EZ-Snap™ Hose Valve with End-Stop as it fits both 6mm and 8mm - I've seen quite a few recommendations for the EZ Snap products. I would not recommend the Hose Valve with end-stop as it is not the best place for it. Best in my opinion is to order the pole with Flow Valve ready fitted.



TDS Meter:
Wow three different types!  Do you test your water before you leave for work every morning to make sure the ppm is low enough/zero?  I don't know which out of the three is best, whether you spray the water over it, or hook it up to the system so that the water always passes through it, thus giving you a readout whenever you want one? The best way is to have an inline TDS meter that will monitor either 1 or 2 feeds for purity at the touch of a button. Often this would be after RO and after DI. Alternatively just use a handheld each morning dipping it into the tank to get a reading.



Hose:
100m of 6mm Microbore - what are the implications of this over the 8mm Minibore with regards to usage, weight and the various connectors? If using an electronic flow controller then there are no water usage differences. However the 8mm ID is a good bit heavier and harder to use.For those that like an ultimately higher flow rate the 8mm Minibore is suitable.



Hose Couplings:
I simply do not know where to start here, so any advice based on the below and above items will help me! My favourite are the Ez-Snap, light compact, cheap and easy to use.



Hose Reel:
Premium Lightweight Metal Freestanding Microbore Hose Reel - is a hoselock necessary? As this doesn't appear to come with one.  My 100m hose will hopefully mean the reel will always stay in the van. The reel comes with a hozelock type female connector for the end of you reel. However I would recommend getting the fitment pack as this allows you to prolong the life of the input and has a simple connector for the Microbore.



Hose Reel Fittings:
Aquastop Female End-Stop Fitting for Microbore/Minibore Hose - will I need this?

Hozelock Type Brass Hose Reel Fitting - Swivel Elbow - or this?

These are in the fitment pack and are worth buying.



Gloves:
Haha don't worry, there are loads of threads about gloves on here for me to read through first.  I've been used to wearing two pairs of woolly gloves for my trad work as I don't really get them wet, I suspect this will change with WFP!

I would not be without my Nitrile gloves. I wear these all year round and they keep your hands hygienic and avoids the drying effect of WFP work. In the winter I add another pair of winter gloves on top.

[Chris - CBWC]

Thank you very much Alex for taking the time to answer my many questions.

Please see my answers below  

Pole:
SLX-II 22 with a Resi-Neck - I don't think I need a long gooseneck, would it be wise to get one as well as the resi just in case?  You never know what new work you're going to pick up.  Should I also get a swivel resi neck, or get the swivel in place of the standard resi?  I'm asking because I have houses where I can't get directly under/in line with the window, due bushes, trees etc - is this where you would stand at an angle to the window but swivel the brush so it's still in line with the frames and window?

If you start off with a Resi-Neck you can always add another gooseneck later as they are interchangeable. Personally I prefer the 10" reach as it allows me to get over deep sills. The swivels are very good, but are an acquired taste - some love them and would not work with anything else others hate them - the do allow you to clean at an angle but keep the brush square to the glass.

Presumably then, there are window cleaners who will clean windows with a standard neck at an angle to the window and without any problems.  I may have to try both out so I don't have to climb through bushes any more.

Flow Control Valve:
Assuming I do get the 6mm Microbore below, I will then need a John Guest 8mm stem to 6mm Barb to be able to fit the Push Fit Quick-Fit pole control valve, OR I can get the EZ-Snap™ Hose Valve with End-Stop as it fits both 6mm and 8mm - I've seen quite a few recommendations for the EZ Snap products. I would not recommend the Hose Valve with end-stop as it is not the best place for it. Best in my opinion is to order the pole with Flow Valve ready fitted.

Sounds good but the options with the pole is "yellow PVC/rubber hose with flow valve", so will my microbore attach to this rubber hose?  I don't understand how this would all work!

TDS Meter:
Wow three different types!  Do you test your water before you leave for work every morning to make sure the ppm is low enough/zero?  I don't know which out of the three is best, whether you spray the water over it, or hook it up to the system so that the water always passes through it, thus giving you a readout whenever you want one? The best way is to have an inline TDS meter that will monitor either 1 or 2 feeds for purity at the touch of a button. Often this would be after RO and after DI. Alternatively just use a handheld each morning dipping it into the tank to get a reading.

Sounds like I've misunderstood how the water system works - I thought I would fill the tank in the van up directly from an outdoor tap, the pump then forces/drives the water through the ro and di, through the hose and out of the brush, therefore the water in the tank would actually be hard water, which is why I'm concerned about limescale in the tank for example.

[Alex Gardiner]

Please see my answers below  

Pole:
SLX-II 22 with a Resi-Neck - I don't think I need a long gooseneck, would it be wise to get one as well as the resi just in case?  You never know what new work you're going to pick up.  Should I also get a swivel resi neck, or get the swivel in place of the standard resi?  I'm asking because I have houses where I can't get directly under/in line with the window, due bushes, trees etc - is this where you would stand at an angle to the window but swivel the brush so it's still in line with the frames and window?

If you start off with a Resi-Neck you can always add another gooseneck later as they are interchangeable. Personally I prefer the 10" reach as it allows me to get over deep sills. The swivels are very good, but are an acquired taste - some love them and would not work with anything else others hate them - the do allow you to clean at an angle but keep the brush square to the glass.

Presumably then, there are window cleaners who will clean windows with a standard neck at an angle to the window and without any problems.  I may have to try both out so I don't have to climb through bushes any more.   I personally only ever use a 10" carbon gooseneck and always manage to reach everything - sometimes I have to tilt the brush a bit but it works. Others I know and respect use a swivel on everything and cannot understand how I can work without it. I think that it would be best to start with either a resi-neck or a 10" and then go from there.

Flow Control Valve:
Assuming I do get the 6mm Microbore below, I will then need a John Guest 8mm stem to 6mm Barb to be able to fit the Push Fit Quick-Fit pole control valve, OR I can get the EZ-Snap™ Hose Valve with End-Stop as it fits both 6mm and 8mm - I've seen quite a few recommendations for the EZ Snap products. I would not recommend the Hose Valve with end-stop as it is not the best place for it. Best in my opinion is to order the pole with Flow Valve ready fitted.

Sounds good but the options with the pole is "yellow PVC/rubber hose with flow valve", so will my microbore attach to this rubber hose?  I don't understand how this would all work! On the pole options list there is a hose connector option you would need to select the EZ-Snap Tail Option. Then on the end of your Microbore hose reel hose you would need to fit one of these in 6mm - http://www.gardinerpolesystems.co.uk/acatalog/ez-snap-female-end-stop-coupling.html This will then allow your pole hose to connect with the reel hose. The pole flow valve would then be fitted for you by the workshop team at about 1.5m up from this coupling which a very convenient place to have it. To see how to hold and use a pole valve please see this video - http://youtu.be/cS51l4oY2mg

TDS Meter:
Wow three different types!  Do you test your water before you leave for work every morning to make sure the ppm is low enough/zero?  I don't know which out of the three is best, whether you spray the water over it, or hook it up to the system so that the water always passes through it, thus giving you a readout whenever you want one? The best way is to have an inline TDS meter that will monitor either 1 or 2 feeds for purity at the touch of a button. Often this would be after RO and after DI. Alternatively just use a handheld each morning dipping it into the tank to get a reading.

Sounds like I've misunderstood how the water system works - I thought I would fill the tank in the van up directly from an outdoor tap, the pump then forces/drives the water through the ro and di, through the hose and out of the brush, therefore the water in the tank would actually be hard water, which is why I'm concerned about limescale in the tank for example.

Generally the best way to treat water is to use the force of the mains water to supply an RO unit in your van. This usually allows you to get away without needing a booster pump and power source. Once the RO has processed the water it will then go through the DI for final polishing and then into the tank. This way your tank is only ever storing pure water.

You could do it the other way but you would need a very powerful booster pump and RO system to process the water quickly enough for you to use. This would mean needing to be connected to 240v when ever you are working or using a lot of battery power to power a 12v booster pump. In reality it is not a workable way of treating water.