[CleanClear]

I was interested in the recent thread..do diy controllers work? So i done a little bit of research (AKA Googling!!).
 Come up with this.......http://r.ebay.com/rhIAD7

I ordered one, i was a little suprised when Ronnie b said this....http://www.cleanitup.co.uk/smf/index.php?topic=165652.msg1391813#msg1391813

as i thought if they won't work with a pressure switch then i've wasted my money. The one Ronnie bought was a PWM controller too, so they should all work the same?
 As far as i can find out PWM means pulse wave modulation, which means the controller sends the current through as stop/start/stop/start/stop/start only its so fast that the motor appears to run smooth. Quicker stop starts means faster pump speed, slower stop starts means slower pump speeds. I read somewhere that some controllers can operate by reducing the voltage to the pump which is no good for the pump. Anycase thats what the PWM means.
 Had some pump/controller wiring go faulty so decided whilst stripping the wiring out would be an opportunity to test this controller out. Here it is in action...........
http://youtu.be/d5vVXiSCJmg
http://youtu.be/zl--vbiIE8I

Seems to be fine, i was going to wait a week to see if we had any problems with it. But can't be bothered to wait. So its not really a DIY controller, its just a very cheap one.
 If anyones an expert on electrics and controllers i'll welcome any corrections to what i've said. If you're a wannabe DIY'er who needs help with it i can't help you other that what i've written above so get on with it !!!
 Spent about a grand on controllers in last couple of years, i can't forsee that happening again!!!!

[colin purewater]

Mike did you get your Xmas tips in cake
And mince pies?
I find it hard to believe that's your belly in YouTube 

[Spruce]

I was interested in the recent thread..do diy controllers work? So i done a little bit of research (AKA Googling!!).
 Come up with this.......http://r.ebay.com/rhIAD7

I ordered one, i was a little suprised when Ronnie b said this....http://www.cleanitup.co.uk/smf/index.php?topic=165652.msg1391813#msg1391813

as i thought if they won't work with a pressure switch then i've wasted my money. The one Ronnie bought was a PWM controller too, so they should all work the same?
 As far as i can find out PWM means pulse wave modulation, which means the controller sends the current through as stop/start/stop/start/stop/start only its so fast that the motor appears to run smooth. Quicker stop starts means faster pump speed, slower stop starts means slower pump speeds. I read somewhere that some controllers can operate by reducing the voltage to the pump which is no good for the pump. Anycase thats what the PWM means.
 Had some pump/controller wiring go faulty so decided whilst stripping the wiring out would be an opportunity to test this controller out. Here it is in action...........
http://youtu.be/d5vVXiSCJmg
http://youtu.be/zl--vbiIE8I

Seems to be fine, i was going to wait a week to see if we had any problems with it. But can't be bothered to wait. So its not really a DIY controller, its just a very cheap one.
 If anyones an expert on electrics and controllers i'll welcome any corrections to what i've said. If you're a wannabe DIY'er who needs help with it i can't help you other that what i've written above so get on with it !!!
 Spent about a grand on controllers in last couple of years, i can't forsee that happening again!!!!

Where exactly does the pressure switch fit in the wiring diagram?

The reason for asking is that controller is wired up the the negative/neutral side of the motor. Its an old 'trick' that reduces the contact flash on switch off and switch on. I did ask Gold once why he didn't wire his Shurflo pump pressure switch through the neutral rather than through the positive supply as it is now.

[CleanClear]

Where exactly does the pressure switch fit in the wiring diagram?

The reason for asking is that controller is wired up the the negative/neutral side of the motor. Its an old 'trick' that reduces the contact flash on switch off and switch on. I did ask Gold once why he didn't wire his Shurflo pump pressure switch through the neutral rather than through the positive supply as it is now.

Every pump i've seen the pressure switch is just a break point in the live feed. So you still only get a positive and negative coming out of the pump, red and black. If you want to bypass the pressure switch then you simply remove the red leads either side of it and join them together. I've only a basic grasp of DC current, being an ex mechanic and no idea of electrics really so i'm unsure what you mean by wiring the pressure switch to the negative, although i can try and guess. I did think Ronnie may have some wiring wrong, that was just a thought though so i didn't want to assume or upset Ronnie !!! But in any case, wired exactly as per the diagram it works fine and indeed the pump pressure switch does kick in as it should and stop it.

[CleanClear]

Just to re cap, black battery lead goes to black controller lead, red battery lead goes to controller and is shared direct to the red lead (positive) to the pump. Black lead from pump goes to the other wire on the controller (its fused). Thats all i can tell you.

[CleanClear]

Mike did you get your Xmas tips in cake
And mince pies?
I find it hard to believe that's your belly in YouTube 

 

[ben M]

Probably a silly question but normally from a flow controller, you have  2 wires to be connected to the pump and 2 wires to the battery. Yours have only 3 wires,how do you? thanks

[stuart mc]

I can't get my head round why it would not work for ronnie either to be honest, god knows I think I will need to buy one to find out, not that I want one

[Spruce]

Just to re cap, black battery lead goes to black controller lead, red battery lead goes to controller and is shared direct to the red lead (positive) to the pump. Black lead from pump goes to the other wire on the controller (its fused). Thats all i can tell you.

Shurflo aways put the pressure switch on the red wire which is the supply to the motor. This is best practise as the motor isn't 'live' when the current is switched off. If they wired the red directly into the pump and put the black wire through the pressure switch, this would reduce the wear on the microswitch contacts as the windings in the motor 'dampens' the current. However, the motor remains live even when the switch is off. I personally don't have a problem with this on 12vdc (230v is a totally different kettle of fish).

If you wired the pressure switch though the neutral before the controller (either before or after the fuse), then there would be no issue and everything would work fine. My gut feel is that you have a + supply from the battery to which you have then connected the red wire from the controller. After that join should be the pressure switch and then the motor.

If Ronnie has the pressure switch wired into the red wire from the controller but before the + wire from the battery, the pump will never switch off from what I can see, even with the pressure switch working correctly.

Hence the request to clarify exactly where you have the pressure switch in the diagram.

Cheers

[Spruce]

I can't get my head round why it would not work for ronnie either to be honest, god knows I think I will need to buy one to find out, not that I want one

    That had crossed my mind as well. Tosh got involved in the previous thread and added to the confusion which didn't help.   

[CleanClear]

My gut feel is that you have a + supply from the battery to which you have then connected the red wire from the controller. After that join should be the pressure switch and then the motor.

Spot on.

[Spruce]

My gut feel is that you have a + supply from the battery to which you have then connected the red wire from the controller. After that join should be the pressure switch and then the motor.

Spot on.

Thanks

Either Ronnie has wired his up incorrectly, or his pressure switch is faulty ie contacts welded together.

[Ste M]

Good to see you dont show your CRB in the video Mike, as Colin says though your certainly filling out well mate, packing in smoking has done wonders for your appertite haha

[stuart mc]

My gut feel is that you have a + supply from the battery to which you have then connected the red wire from the controller. After that join should be the pressure switch and then the motor.

Spot on.

I was thinking backwards, but I agree with this, what I mean I was thinking, live from motor to pressure switch, then live to controller from the pressure switch, then live to battery, the negative goes from pump/motor to controller to battery, have I got it right?

[stuart mc]

My gut feel is that you have a + supply from the battery to which you have then connected the red wire from the controller. After that join should be the pressure switch and then the motor.

Spot on.

Thanks

Either Ronnie has wired his up incorrectly, or his pressure switch is faulty ie contacts welded together.

his switch is fine, he took the controller out the equation and it worked

[CleanClear]

his switch is fine, he took the controller out the equation and it worked

I know what you say is right, but it doesn't make any sense?

[stuart mc]

his switch is fine, he took the controller out the equation and it worked

I know what you say is right, but it doesn't make any sense?

I know, it confused me, it must be wired wrong, RONNIE send me your controller and I will try it if it works I will send it back and tell you how to do it

[ben M]

so why 3 wires on this flow controller and not 4?

[stuart mc]

so why 3 wires on this flow controller and not 4?

that is confusing me as well, looking at the diagram, that seems to point to missing the pressure switch altogether and relying on manually turning it off at controller

[CleanClear]

Look this is easy, don't complicate it worrying about pressure switches, negative feeds and all sorts of other stuff. Your pump has two wires a red and a black. Shove the red to the battery, take a spur off the red to the red on the controller. Put your black controller wire to the negative (black) battery terminal. That leaves you a black wire coming off your pump unatatched, and a yellow/blue wire coming off your controller, unatatched. Join them up. Job done.