[garyfindlay]

What hand tools do you use with the prowler. Tried a "pebble"  from Ashby`s and didn`t get enough flow to have hot water. Have been using the Drimaster ok, and bought a cfr which seams slightly cooler. Whats the best tool to use, or should I just get a larger jet. Also where can I get a manual for the cfr tool?

[nevil]

I use a CFR. Works well, I have the bypass just slightly open on the machine and run at about half revs at 200psi. Takes a while to get the hot water through but it gets there.

[garyfindlay]

Why do you use 1/2 revs, or whats the benefits?

[nevil]

I may have got it wrong Gary but my thinking is that the prowler has has to dump water to get heat out of the system, which is done by opening the bypass. When using the CFR which has only one jet and is used at fairly low psi. The machine will generate too much heat at full revs so more water will have to be dumped.
I'm just figuring it all out and it doesn't seem an exact science but I personally value not wasting water while I work so prefer to operate in a manor that isn't too wasteful. But I don't think there is any right or wrong. You could run flat out but you would need to bypass more water to waste to get the heat out of the system. Incidentally I am going to modify the machine soon to have a header tank which will take the water that is normally bypassed to waste. That along with a few other modifications. See how much I can eek out of it.

[John Kelly]

Run the bypass to your fresh tank if its big enough. Unless you are running for hours on end the tank shouldn't get too hot to cause problems. Personally think the Saphire is the best tool for this machine.

[nevil]

John I liked the look of the sapphire and couldn't make my mind up between that and the CFR. I went for the CFR in the end and I love it but still wonder sometimes if the other one would have been better.  Like the sound of bypassing to fresh water, I guess you would have to run a long time to bring the temp of the whole lot up to a level that would cause problems. I suppose if that did ever happen the bypass at the back could take care of it if it was still going to waste.

[Paul Moss]

Nevil, the saphire is mainly my choice of hand tool when cleaning uph, my own view is it knocks the cfr into a cocked hat. The beauty of using it with the prowler would be using it as a bypass to get the hot water flowing through the solution hose, becauseit has a waterfall type flow and not a jet you can just keep the trigger pressed in mid airbto let the water flow through the tool and then when its at temp you can start to clean with heat.

[Russ Chadd]

I have been using a 5"open jet tool fitted with a 03 nozzle for areas like stairs which works just fine as long as i open the bypass on the front of the machine slightly.
One easy way to control heat on this machine would be to somehow divert the exhaust gasses away from the HX by way of a valve... that way you wouldnt need to worry about the machine getting too hot and dumping water.

The nozzle hole size will have an effect on how quickly the water can travel from the HX to the tool and this will effect the heat build up and the machine dumping

A bypass which could fit between your hoses and tools would be useful, anyone made one?

[nevil]

Sounds good Paul. Maybe the next time I'm after new toys I will look at it again.

Russ diverted would be nice but but I don't fancy trying to mount something between the engine and HX. I got a digital temp controller from ebay which I  plan to use to maintain the header tank at no more the 50 degrees. Dumping back to fresh water if it goes over. Also I want to mount a simple extra hx near the engine to bring the temp up of the water being pumped in from the fresh tank. Bit like on the 4.0. 

[Russ Chadd]

Nevil

Im just saying one easy way heat could be controlled on any TM would be to have a valve which re directs the hot gasses from the engine away from the HX, this would eliminate the need to bypass water back into the tank of dump it into the waste pipe, could have a thermostat attached to a solenoid.
Correct me if i am wrong but you mentioned adding a second HX to heat water from the fresh water tank? would this not damaged the pump?

When my prowler is running full throttle there is plenty of heat at the tools 

[Paul Moss]

There is an easy way around this, my first truckmount did not have a header tank and the great Davey Ingram set up a simple device for me to control water temp. It would take me too long typing and trying to explain. You can call though .

[Russ Chadd]

Hey Paul

Sorry mate, i dont have your contact details? Could you email them over?

info@prosteamuk.com

Cheers

Russ

[nevil]

Russ. according to the manual the pump will cope with water upto 60 degrees.  I figure that if I stay well below this then the pump should be safe. I'm pleased with the heat from the prowler, it's better than I expected. But I'm used to what the maxx diesel produced so if I can squeeze a little extra out of it I'll like it even more.  Is yours the original red prowler or is it one of the more up to date ones. I remember chatting with Craig down at HM a few years ago about adding a diverter to the 4.0. Pretty straight forward from what I can remember. Having said that there is more space on the 4.0 to work with than I have. But still possible. If you decide to go for it let me know how it goes.


Here's a link to the controller I've ordered.  http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/130540135837?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
 

[Russ Chadd]

Nevil

I would  avoid putting hot water through your pump! it will simply wear out the seals quicker! my prowler is a 2010 model, it has all the usual features including a fresh water feed to the pump head to keep it cool... without this feature the pump would re circulate hot water and seize up.
How are you going to fit that controller to the prowler?

[nevil]

Most trucks run hot water through the pump Russ. Can't see whey the prowler should be any different. Will check the manual again but I'm sure that I read it can handle upto 60degrees. There may even be some higher temp seals available will have to look into it.

[Russ Chadd]

The pump will work fine if you feed it warm water as it states up to 60dC, however i dont see how this is going to give you hotter water at the end of 150' of solution hose?
Unless i have totally misunderstood you, it seems like more work and extra expense for no real gain?
 

[nevil]

Maybe Russ. Not going to be very expensive to do and if it gives better temperatures and therefore better performance it's got to be worth it. Oh and I like tinkering. :

If the header tank can be maintained at 50degrees, it stands to reason that the water will be hotter at the wand. Without the header tank, water enters the HX at 10 maybe 15 degrees, less if it's a cold day. If it works it will enter the HX at 50 then be lifted by the same amount that the HX is capable of. I would think it's going to make a huge difference.   

Before you dismiss it. Why would you say that a lot of the big TM manufactures use a header tank system if there is no benefit?

[John Kelly]

The warmer the water going in the hotter the water going out. Avoid all the extra grief with header tanks etc just divert direct into the fresh tank. Leave the bypass on just a trickle. The cold tank will warm up gradually and should never get too hot for the pump, which is 60c by the way. Only time it might is if you on the last dregs of the tank.
I use my Amtex truckmount for flood extraction work and have my bypass fully open going back to the fresh tank. I only use a 125l tank and that is usually only a quarter full. This is sometimes running for hours on end and the tank water gets red hot. No detrimental affect so far, everything still works fine.

[Russ Chadd]

Hi John

Would it be possible to send me a list of the required parts needed to return water back to the water tank?
I too have a 125l tank fitted to my van

[John Kelly]

Simply get a brass cistern valve with half inch tube. drill hole through top of tank, fit cistern valve and put hozelock nipple on pipe. Simply run a hose from your bypass to this nipple. Any hose will do as its not under pressure.
You can disconnect the hose and fill your tank through the cistern valve and it will switch itself off when full.