[AshWhite]

Last week I started having problems with TM being lethargic to start, the next day it wouldnt start at all unless I jump started it. I took the battery off, charged it overnight, next day it was fine for the first couple of jobs, then died on its arse again.

I changed the battery for a new one on Tuesday (assuming the battery wasnt holding a charge), all been ok until this afternoon when my water feed stopped - I could only get the pump supplying the header tank to function by connecting the battery to the van battery for the remainder of the job (God bless extra long jump leads!).

So it seems as though the TM is not charging the battery, anyone know how the system works?It's a Hydramaster Boxxer 421 with B&S V-Twin air cooled engine. Is it an alternator, or some sort of dynamo?

Appreciate any help

Ash

[Len Gribble]

It’s a magneto type look for two yellow leads and you will find it (BS normally bolt them to engine starter side) after testing it and it’s kaput! Highly recommend your new one be relocate it from the heat of the engine

[elliott cleaning]

Magneto, Len.  They call them regulators. yep bolted on the side of engine - whoever thought that was a great idea

[Nick Attwood]

New one off Hydramaster about £48 2mins to change 

[AshWhite]

Cheers gents, I'll give HM a ring on Monday

[Len Gribble]

As I said magneto type unlike dynamos or alternators which use a lot of copper wiring, all use some type of voltage regulator or your frazzled Spares make the world go round, someone had insight 

Sorry it may also have a red lead

Think ten to fifteen minutes to gather your thoughts on how to……. 48quid and bad

[Mike Halliday]

run a heavy duty live  feed from your van battery.

[Kev Loomes]

run a heavy duty live  feed from your van battery.

I agree.

Gets rid of battery, and is less weight. But more importantly you wont get a flat battery if you have issues with the TM trying to re-charge! and if the TM is troublesome to start then all you need to do is start the van engine and hey presto! Havent run a TM for over 3yrs.

[richie]

I have altered a few truckmounts for people now.  Scrap the TMs battery and as already said use the power from the vans battery.  Transits are the easiest as the battery is under the drivers seat.  B&S engines are well known for giving up charging.  Useless design that they have used for donkeys years.

[Mike Halliday]

I have a live feed put into the back when I order my vehicle, it comes with a fuse fitted incase the wire rubs against the body and grounds it's self ( the wire goes red hot melts the outer plastic and makes so much smoke you think your van  is on fire)

It also has a kill switch fitted to isolate TM. I asked them to also put a diesel feed into the back so I would,nt need a fuel tank for the TM but they said modern vans have a pressurised system so you can,t tap into the fuel line.

[Nick Attwood]

If ditching the TM battery and just running a live from the van is there anything else I need to do? Or is it that simple?

Couldn't get my head round the fact of what if: The van & TM are running together? would there be any probs with the TM & Van charging the same battery??

[Doug Holloway]

Hi Guys

Funnily enough I have been having the same problem with my Cobalt and have been charging evrey night!

I have bought a new reugulator and tried to fit it but access is very difficult.

When you say run a live feed, do you come through the cab?

Cheers

Doug

[richie]

Yes come through the cab.  It is very easy to do.  Each time i have done it i have used the cable from heavy duty booster cables.  Look at the machine, locate the red cable that normally goes to the battery and trace it to where it fits on the machine.  Disconnect that lead and connect the new one.  Next get the new black cable and connect to a good earth on the machine.  I usually  fit a round connector on the lead and bolt it to where the machine is bolted through the floor or to the fresh tank (if sub mounted).  Next, connect the black cable to the van battery and then the red.  THATS IT.  Your ready to go.  As Mike has said you could fit a inline fuse and a kill switch.  Each person tht has asked me to fit it this way there has been no need for those as the bulk heads have been wooden.  If fitting through a metal bulk head then id use a rubber gromit to prevent the cables from damage.

[richie]

Anyone still unsure could always give me a call .

[Nick Attwood]

Cheers Richie, what size fuse would you recommend??

[Mike Halliday]

mine goes from the battery past the engine and underneath the van then comes up through the floor next to the truckmount. it is ran through garden hose pipe to give it extra protection against rubbing against the frame and shorting out. I cable tie it to the chassie.

[Craigp]

Sounds like a good idea.

Do you then do anyway with the regulator ?

I mean does the TM need to be recharging the van battery as it runs, in the same way as when the van is running?

[Kev Loomes]

No, no at all. Once its running then it is independent and uses no battery power. The only time the van battery uses juice is to start the TM. I know what you mean though - is it charging the battery in the van as its running? Well yes I guess it must do. But its never an issue. Like I said, been running the van battery only on different TM's for the past 3yrs - and never had one single problem of any kind.

As already mentioned, I have my cables going through a rubber grommet as my bulkhead is steel. I like Mike's idea though of running it under and back up again - its probably easier to do that tbh.

[Nick Attwood]

Does anyone fuse it? If so what size fuse??

[Kev Loomes]

The way I see it is, whether its from a battery sitting next to the TM, or alternatively by another one from the van - either one using the same cables, then its the same thing - as they are the same object (just swapped)? If its connected via a battery sitting next to the TM, thats all it is - 2 cables, black and red with nothing inbetween, no fuses nothing.

So I dont worry about it tbh running a fuse. I think the TM is protected anyway via its own fuse box. But having said that, if you really want to run a fuse then I would go for something like a 15 or 20amp blade type.

I suppose its better to be safe than sorry Nick.