[Ian101]

 it dont cost much to get it down to 000 does it ?

highest I will use is 001 - 002 if resin has run out

when pre filters are fresh my 4040 produces at 002 so resin lasts about 12 months and costs a fiver to change

[daniel worgan]

Nothing to do with costs Ian....it is just a false claim to say that anything above 000ppm will not produce results,so therefore running at higher than zero is acceptable imo...

[Londoner]

I get a bit worried once it goes over 5

[gary999]

ive used water upto 25ppm with mixed results i find anything up to around 10ppm is fine
but once you are approaching 20ppm you cant guarantee the results especially if using
in anything that you wouldnt consider ideal weather conditions

[Ian101]

Nothing to do with costs Ian....it is just a false claim to say that anything above 000ppm will not produce results,so therefore running at higher than zero is acceptable imo...

when first starting out went on some training at Ionics and the main man down there Craig rekons theyre systems produce at 000.01 !!!

[Pureclean Essex Services]

I have used it at 010 at this time of year and 005 in summer time with no complaints at all,but I also sell pure water to a couple of local windy's,and always make sure it is at 000 because that's what they are paying for.

Regards Brian.

[Cliff perkins]

DO NOT get a merlin unless your tap pressure is really good,.. the output TDS is rubbish with pressures below 60psi.

Thats not quite true mine was 40 psi in a hard water area and i got 15

[scud]

  I happily use water upto 25ppm with no problems, try to keep it down a bit more though in hot, sunny weather.

  Persuit of 000ppm is just frustrating and needless.

[EandM]

Lots of rollyeyes........

I've worked with tds between 10-20 in direct sunlight and it has indeed left spots on the window.
17 would be fine on an overcast day, not near the sea on a maintenance clean.
Wouldn't risk it on a first clean though.
And yes - the cutting ability of DI water reduces exponentially as the tds rises.
Do a bit of research on how DI water cleans - it really is very interesting   

[♠Winp®oClean♠]

Lots of rollyeyes........

I've worked with tds between 10-20 in direct sunlight and it has indeed left spots on the window.
17 would be fine on an overcast day, not near the sea on a maintenance clean.
Wouldn't risk it on a first clean though.
And yes - the cutting ability of DI water reduces exponentially as the tds rises.
Do a bit of research on how DI water cleans - it really is very interesting   

 

Oh right, so direct sunlight causes the spots now then? So, if it clouds over my water wont leave any spots?


Try cleaning a window with tap water- it cleans exactly the same as with pure! apart from what will be left behind of-course. Cutting my ar*e!

I've heard some tripe in my time on here!

[dazmond]

i dont understand some of you.i think its important to keep your tds as low as possible.pure water is what we use to clean windows!!why run the risk of spotting?

pure water is mildly solvent and "cuts" through the dirt and soaks up the crap quicker.read up likes been said.its true.

i personally dont let it go past 005 then i put a second FRESH DI vessel in front of the first one until the first one gets to my tap tds level.i make the most of my resin then.

[ian1965]

i dont understand some of you.i think its important to keep your tds as low as possible.pure water is what we use to clean windows!!why run the risk of spotting?

pure water is mildly solvent and "cuts" through the dirt and soaks up the crap quicker.read up likes been said.its true.

i personally dont let it go past 005 then i put a second FRESH DI vessel in front of the first one until the first one gets to my tap tds level.i make the most of my resin then.

+1

[♠Winp®oClean♠]

i dont understand some of you.i think its important to keep your tds as low as possible.pure water is what we use to clean windows!!why run the risk of spotting?

pure water is mildly solvent and "cuts" through the dirt and soaks up the crap quicker.read up likes been said.its true.

i personally dont let it go past 005 then i put a second FRESH DI vessel in front of the first one until the first one gets to my tap tds level.i make the most of my resin then.

No disrespect Daz but while you were in your wfp nappies I was testing resins, testing windows with varying TDS's, creating & bringing to you all the twin DI system. Yep. Dave Morris & the owner of WCW used to laugh when I insisted that there was a considerable difference between resin brands, They both insisted Purolite was the same as Tulsion & Dowex- I wonder what reaction they'd get now if they said the same? Just look what resin WCW sell (that they didn't used to). I've developed a technique which you can wfp ANY window & get top results including all first cleans & old wooden windows regardless of how oxidized they are.

They question is not about when you should ideally change resin but more about what is fact in real world term! I don't need to read up on the properties of pure water, I've done it- & before you even thought about it.

The weather will make zero difference to whether your water spots or not- only to how easy it is to see it if it is there! Water quality will virtually NEVER be the issue with poor results with a TDS of 40 & below regardless of weather or if it's a first clean or not. A first clean is a first clean & exactly the same will happen whether you use 000 or 030ppm water!

Don't get paranoid over a few ppm, most of what you read on here about it is nonsense in real terms & usually not even first hand information, just someone re-writing what they've read before.

[CLEANCARE WC]

i dont understand some of you.i think its important to keep your tds as low as possible.pure water is what we use to clean windows!!why run the risk of spotting?

pure water is mildly solvent and "cuts" through the dirt and soaks up the crap quicker.read up likes been said.its true.

i personally dont let it go past 005 then i put a second FRESH DI vessel in front of the first one until the first one gets to my tap tds level.i make the most of my resin then.

No disrespect Daz but while you were in your wfp nappies I was testing resins, testing windows with varying TDS's, creating & bringing to you all the twin DI system. Yep. Dave Morris & the owner of WCW used to laugh when I insisted that there was a considerable difference between resin brands, They both insisted Purolite was the same as Tulsion & Dowex- I wonder what reaction they'd get now if they said the same? Just look what resin WCW sell (that they didn't used to). I've developed a technique which you can wfp ANY window & get top results including all first cleans & old wooden windows regardless of how oxidized they are.

They question is not about when you should ideally change resin but more about what is fact in real world term! I don't need to read up on the properties of pure water, I've done it- & before you even thought about it.

The weather will make zero difference to whether your water spots or not- only to how easy it is to see it if it is there! Water quality will virtually NEVER be the issue with poor results with a TDS of 40 & below regardless of weather or if it's a first clean or not. A first clean is a first clean & exactly the same will happen whether you use 000 or 030ppm water!

Don't get paranoid over a few ppm, most of what you read on here about it is nonsense in real terms & usually not even first hand information, just someone re-writing what they've read before.

here here

[Roy Cauldery]

i dont understand some of you.i think its important to keep your tds as low as possible.pure water is what we use to clean windows!!why run the risk of spotting?

pure water is mildly solvent and "cuts" through the dirt and soaks up the crap quicker.read up likes been said.its true.

i personally dont let it go past 005 then i put a second FRESH DI vessel in front of the first one until the first one gets to my tap tds level.i make the most of my resin then.

No disrespect Daz but while you were in your wfp nappies I was testing resins, testing windows with varying TDS's, creating & bringing to you all the twin DI system. Yep. Dave Morris & the owner of WCW used to laugh when I insisted that there was a considerable difference between resin brands, They both insisted Purolite was the same as Tulsion & Dowex- I wonder what reaction they'd get now if they said the same? Just look what resin WCW sell (that they didn't used to). I've developed a technique which you can wfp ANY window & get top results including all first cleans & old wooden windows regardless of how oxidized they are.

They question is not about when you should ideally change resin but more about what is fact in real world term! I don't need to read up on the properties of pure water, I've done it- & before you even thought about it.

The weather will make zero difference to whether your water spots or not- only to how easy it is to see it if it is there! Water quality will virtually NEVER be the issue with poor results with a TDS of 40 & below regardless of weather or if it's a first clean or not. A first clean is a first clean & exactly the same will happen whether you use 000 or 030ppm water!

Don't get paranoid over a few ppm, most of what you read on here about it is nonsense in real terms & usually not even first hand information, just someone re-writing what they've read before.

Whats your view on water softners?

[dazmond]

still for me wimpro ill stick to keeping my water below 005!fair play you have been at it longer than me but i just dont see the point in risking it at a higher tds when it really doesnt cost that much to keep it at 000!!

each to their own!!

[Perfect Windows]

i dont understand some of you.i think its important to keep your tds as low as possible.pure water is what we use to clean windows!!why run the risk of spotting?

pure water is mildly solvent and "cuts" through the dirt and soaks up the crap quicker.read up likes been said.its true.

i personally dont let it go past 005 then i put a second FRESH DI vessel in front of the first one until the first one gets to my tap tds level.i make the most of my resin then.

No disrespect Daz but while you were in your wfp nappies I was testing resins, testing windows with varying TDS's, creating & bringing to you all the twin DI system. Yep. Dave Morris & the owner of WCW used to laugh when I insisted that there was a considerable difference between resin brands, They both insisted Purolite was the same as Tulsion & Dowex- I wonder what reaction they'd get now if they said the same? Just look what resin WCW sell (that they didn't used to). I've developed a technique which you can wfp ANY window & get top results including all first cleans & old wooden windows regardless of how oxidized they are.

They question is not about when you should ideally change resin but more about what is fact in real world term! I don't need to read up on the properties of pure water, I've done it- & before you even thought about it.

The weather will make zero difference to whether your water spots or not- only to how easy it is to see it if it is there! Water quality will virtually NEVER be the issue with poor results with a TDS of 40 & below regardless of weather or if it's a first clean or not. A first clean is a first clean & exactly the same will happen whether you use 000 or 030ppm water!

Don't get paranoid over a few ppm, most of what you read on here about it is nonsense in real terms & usually not even first hand information, just someone re-writing what they've read before.

If you think about it for a few minutes, then you'll see that if you are using a twin DI as you say you are (I do!) then you won't save a single penny on resin by working with water with a non-zero TDS, so you might as well change it as soon as it starts to creep up.

Vin

[♠Winp®oClean♠]

i dont understand some of you.i think its important to keep your tds as low as possible.pure water is what we use to clean windows!!why run the risk of spotting?

pure water is mildly solvent and "cuts" through the dirt and soaks up the crap quicker.read up likes been said.its true.

i personally dont let it go past 005 then i put a second FRESH DI vessel in front of the first one until the first one gets to my tap tds level.i make the most of my resin then.

No disrespect Daz but while you were in your wfp nappies I was testing resins, testing windows with varying TDS's, creating & bringing to you all the twin DI system. Yep. Dave Morris & the owner of WCW used to laugh when I insisted that there was a considerable difference between resin brands, They both insisted Purolite was the same as Tulsion & Dowex- I wonder what reaction they'd get now if they said the same? Just look what resin WCW sell (that they didn't used to). I've developed a technique which you can wfp ANY window & get top results including all first cleans & old wooden windows regardless of how oxidized they are.

They question is not about when you should ideally change resin but more about what is fact in real world term! I don't need to read up on the properties of pure water, I've done it- & before you even thought about it.

The weather will make zero difference to whether your water spots or not- only to how easy it is to see it if it is there! Water quality will virtually NEVER be the issue with poor results with a TDS of 40 & below regardless of weather or if it's a first clean or not. A first clean is a first clean & exactly the same will happen whether you use 000 or 030ppm water!

Don't get paranoid over a few ppm, most of what you read on here about it is nonsense in real terms & usually not even first hand information, just someone re-writing what they've read before.

If you think about it for a few minutes, then you'll see that if you are using a twin DI as you say you are (I do!) then you won't save a single penny on resin by working with water with a non-zero TDS, so you might as well change it as soon as it starts to creep up.

Vin

Correct Onion, however, if you'd read the whole thread you would have seen that wasn't the issue I was responding to!

[EandM]

Lots of rollyeyes........

I've worked with tds between 10-20 in direct sunlight and it has indeed left spots on the window.
17 would be fine on an overcast day, not near the sea on a maintenance clean.
Wouldn't risk it on a first clean though.
And yes - the cutting ability of DI water reduces exponentially as the tds rises.
Do a bit of research on how DI water cleans - it really is very interesting   

 



Oh right, so direct sunlight causes the spots now then? So, if it clouds over my water wont leave any spots?


Try cleaning a window with tap water- it cleans exactly the same as with pure! apart from what will be left behind of-course. Cutting my ar*e!

I've heard some tripe in my time on here!

Do you actually have any idea how WFP Cleaning works?
0 TDS water doesn't exist in nature. By modifying water using a mixed bed resin you are altering it's natural state.
If you look at the Planet we live on, that's Earth in case you missed it, anything modified or altered beyond it's natural state will always return to it's natural state.
0 TDS has 'cut' because it will consume anything it can in order to return to it's natural tds which is obviously considerably higher than 0.
As the tds goes up and the water is no longer pure contaminates are left behind in the droplets.
You may not have noticed this but if the Sun is shining on a window the window gets warm - sometimes very warm.
If the window is very warm the water will evaporate very quickly and the contaminates will then dry on the window leaving spots.
If you're in direct sunlight this makes the problem much worse.
If you're on the opposite side away from the Sun, that's the shiny yellow thing we see sometimes,  the window is colder and evaporation takes place much more slowly
meaning you can probably get away with a higher tds.
DI water that runs off a sill and over algae will actually consume it. Tap water just turns it slightly green and may remove some of the loose stuff but that's about it.
Di water has a ph of around 6-6.8, sometimes in the 5's, which makes it mildly acidic and this is probably where the cutting element comes in as it will balance out to 7 once it's fed. Have a read of these, they explain it well:

http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20081030065718AAlWBsK

http://www.lenntech.com/applications/process/demineralised/deionised-demineralised-water.htm

[♠Winp®oClean♠]

Lots of rollyeyes........

I've worked with tds between 10-20 in direct sunlight and it has indeed left spots on the window.
17 would be fine on an overcast day, not near the sea on a maintenance clean.
Wouldn't risk it on a first clean though.
And yes - the cutting ability of DI water reduces exponentially as the tds rises.
Do a bit of research on how DI water cleans - it really is very interesting   

 



Oh right, so direct sunlight causes the spots now then? So, if it clouds over my water wont leave any spots?


Try cleaning a window with tap water- it cleans exactly the same as with pure! apart from what will be left behind of-course. Cutting my ar*e!

I've heard some tripe in my time on here!

Do you actually have any idea how WFP Cleaning works?
0 TDS water doesn't exist in nature. By modifying water using a mixed bed resin you are altering it's natural state.
If you look at the Planet we live on, that's Earth in case you missed it, anything modified or altered beyond it's natural state will always return to it's natural state.
0 TDS has 'cut' because it will consume anything it can in order to return to it's natural tds which is obviously considerably higher than 0.
As the tds goes up and the water is no longer pure contaminates are left behind in the droplets.
You may not have noticed this but if the Sun is shining on a window the window gets warm - sometimes very warm.
If the window is very warm the water will evaporate very quickly and the contaminates will then dry on the window leaving spots.
If you're in direct sunlight this makes the problem much worse.
If you're on the opposite side away from the Sun, that's the shiny yellow thing we see sometimes,  the window is colder and evaporation takes place much more slowly
meaning you can probably get away with a higher tds.
DI water that runs off a sill and over algae will actually consume it. Tap water just turns it slightly green and may remove some of the loose stuff but that's about it.
Di water has a ph of around 6-6.8, sometimes in the 5's, which makes it mildly acidic and this is probably where the cutting element comes in as it will balance out to 7 once it's fed. Have a read of these, they explain it well:

http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20081030065718AAlWBsK

http://www.lenntech.com/applications/process/demineralised/deionised-demineralised-water.htm

Well I never!!! Honestly, I would never have known all that. Crikey, now that is proper science!!

 

That's what I love about wfp, it brings out all the closet scientists!! PMSLF