[mikecam]

well here it is fellas, i like the sound of kentkleans pump but it is very cheap pump this concerns me a little as my last two membranes have only lasted me about 9 months each max! i have just purchased two new membranes and want these two to last a lot longer, not sure weather these pumps would kill the membranes sooner???

just not sure what to do!!

my current system does not run off a pump and it is now producing tds of 21 which in my opinion is not good enough! my pressure is only about 25 - 30 psi so i no a pump would be better just not sure what one.

it is all costing ££££££

THATS IT  B&Q   i,l let you now how it goes

listen if your membranes are only lasting 9 months you have a big problem.Some causes of early membrane failure could be failing to change the carbon filter and chlorine reaching the membranes. Or running your membranes with insufficient waste water to clear the waste away. You need to find out what you're doing wrong or you'll be wasting more money.

[Topclean]

mike do you think low pressure would cause the good water to back up, because i have changed my pressure gage and the new one is now showing 30 psi and i,ve also noticed that the water is backing up. by this i mean the good water is coming from ro to a di bottle, but now i,m thinking there is not enough pressure to push this through the di??  hope this makes sense!

[Lee GLS]

look on this site, the first pump was recommended to me for my 4040, the top 2 are the same, one with a pressure switch and one without, they boost up to 90psi and they are cheaper than the clarke pumps.

http://www.anglianpumping.com/cats/Self-priming-pumps.asp

[mikecam]

mike do you think low pressure would cause the good water to back up, because i have changed my pressure gage and the new one is now showing 30 psi and i,ve also noticed that the water is backing up. by this i mean the good water is coming from ro to a di bottle, but now i,m thinking there is not enough pressure to push this through the di??  hope this makes sense!

not sure exactly what you mean. But as long as its coming out the ro i would of thought it would get through your di bottle. What sort of waste to product ratio are you running?

[Alex Gardiner]

well here it is fellas, i like the sound of kentkleans pump but it is very cheap pump this concerns me a little as my last two membranes have only lasted me about 9 months each max! i have just purchased two new membranes and want these two to last a lot longer, not sure weather these pumps would kill the membranes sooner???

just not sure what to do!!

my current system does not run off a pump and it is now producing tds of 21 which in my opinion is not good enough! my pressure is only about 25 - 30 psi so i no a pump would be better just not sure what one.

it is all costing ££££££

THATS IT  B&Q   i,l let you now how it goes

What membranes are you using HF4 or HF5?

[Topclean]

hf5

[J. Domingos]

In my case I made a machine able to produce in 2hours 500LT of pure water, around 1LT every 18sec.!!!!!!

[Paul Coleman]

To help you (Topclean) make a comparison.  I use an HF5 single membrane system.  TDS in c.200  .   TDS out 008 - 015  .  Water pressure  35 - 40 PSI.  No pump.

At first, it was giving me about 90 Litres Per Hour of pure.  After about 3 months, this had dropped to about 60 LPH.
Today, after nearly 6 months, I changed the sediment and carbon pre-filters.  Production went up to nearly 90 again.
I suspect that the low pressure is putting more strain on the sediment filter.  Normally these have been a bit off white when I change them.  However, this one today was grey.  So much so that I did a quick double take to make sure I hadn't put the carbon filter in the wrong housing.  I hadn't.
9 months definitely not long enough for membranes.  Have you considered making your system single membrane so that there may be a bit more pressure going through?  You do change your pre-filters regularly don't you?  20" max 6 months.  10" max 3 months.  Usually better to do it more frequently.  I will be after seeing that sediment pre-filter today.

[Spruce]

look on this site, the first pump was recommended to me for my 4040, the top 2 are the same, one with a pressure switch and one without, they boost up to 90psi and they are cheaper than the clarke pumps.

http://www.anglianpumping.com/cats/Self-priming-pumps.asp

I don't know anything about this topic as I don't use a booster pump. When would you use a pressure switch controlled unit and when wouldn't you?
I see June from Gaps has recommended 2 from machine mart via Lee.

[Lee GLS]

You need a pressure switch if you are going to leave the pump running for it to automaticly switch off when the tank is full, but it would need to be used in conjunction with a ball cock of some sort.

[easycleaner]

Got a pump of pure freedom fills 500lt in an hour, brill.
Mart

[Topclean]

thanks for all the info fellas, i,m still waiting for a pump to be delivered (b & q).

Lee the pump with a pressure switch you say cuts off if used with a ball cock, but does that stop the water completely because although the good water will stop going in to the tank what about the waste?? i cant get my head around this.  i will need to set up some kind of timer?

easycleaner, what pump did they sell you? and was it for a 4040 ro?

[Lee GLS]

thats a good question, im in the process of setting up a booster pump too, i hadnt thought of that, i cant answer it, hopefully someone else will come along and give us the answer. 

[Spruce]

thanks for all the info fellas, i,m still waiting for a pump to be delivered (b & q).

Lee the pump with a pressure switch you say cuts off if used with a ball cock, but does that stop the water completely because although the good water will stop going in to the tank what about the waste?? i cant get my head around this.  i will need to set up some kind of timer?

easycleaner, what pump did they sell you? and was it for a 4040 ro?

Hi
this was answered on a separate post just recently.
If you use a float switch such as this

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/float-switch-230v-2m-cable?da=1&TC=RV-051040000

then you will be able to switch your booster pump off when the float switch identifies that your IBC tank is full.
You also need a solenoid valve 'normally off' at your r/o inlet wired into this float switch as well.
Once the power is cut to the booster pump when the tank is full, the power will also be cut to the solenoid valve and it will shut the water off to the R/O.

Fill your van, and once the IBC tank is about half full, the float switch will kick on again, activating the solenoid valve so the r/o is fed with mains water and the booster pump is also switch on.

Spruce

[Lee GLS]

spruce, can you wire a pump and a solenoid into one float switch?

[www.mrgutters.co.uk]

hi all

i recently bought a booster pump with a tank from omnipole  but after plumbing it up it just turns off after a couple mins ...but if you release the waste it gushes out any ideas

[Spruce]

As I said earlier, I am sure that the float switch is rated at 10amps.
This booster pump from machine mart draws 1000w at 230v = 4.5amps.

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/cbm240-1in-multi-stage-water-pump?da=1&TC=RV-051011130

The solenoid valve coils current requirement is very low, so yes they would.

You would just need to confirm with the technical dept of machinemart that this float switch is rated at 10amp to be 100% sure. The wire used looks like it will carry that current.

Make up a cable from 10amp cable with a 13amp plug for your normal wall socket. Run this cable to a 6 terminal 20amp junction box.
eg.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/heavy-duty-junction-box-20a-6-terminal/21209

The postive (brown) from the cable would go the the first terminal you allocate in the junction box. Identify which 2 of the 3 cables you need from the float switch. (In a previous recent post, the float switch can work opposite to the way it's wired up in a submersible pump. You need the setup that will switch the current off as the float becomes vertical.) The first wire to the switch will then be wired into this same terminal you put the feed into. Take the other wire from the float switch and allocate it a 2nd terminal. This will be positive only when the float switch is on. You then use this terminal as the positive feed to the solenoid valve and the booster pump. The neutral of both booster pump and solenoid valve will be allocated the 3rd terminal (blue cable), as will the neutral to the plug. The 4th terminal will be the earth cable, used if the booster pump and solenoid valve are earthed. If they don't have an earth, ie they are double insulated (only have two wires) then it won't be used.

The 3rd wire that comes out of the float switch will not be used. Separate it and wire it in to the 5th terminal in the junction box to keep it out of the way. No other wires will be connected to this terminal.
Spruce

[Lee GLS]

thanks for the explanation, you recommended the float switch before and that is what i am going to use, but i hand thought about a solenoid to cut the water supply off.

[Spruce]

thanks for the explanation, you recommended the float switch before and that is what i am going to use, but i hand thought about a solenoid to cut the water supply off.

Lee,

No problem. I have this system on my IBC tank, - booster pump. It's just left to it's own devices. Once the tank is full then it just switches off, day or night.
Of course the other way is to put the system onto a timer and you guess how long the system must run for to the fill the tank. You will need to ensure the overflow pipe always works to prevent a flood into your storage area if you over-estimate filling time.

Spruce.

[Paul Coleman]

I realise that it's not a standard solution but I invested in one of these:

http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=146253

I also have a ballcock in the tank.

I assume that if one thing fails, the other won't.

Although I would get more pressure with a pump,I have experienced cutoff failure and flooding in the past.  Apparently a little bit of dirt got into the solenoid.  So I've never trusted them since.
So the device above stops the water flowing at the tap once the set time is reached.  The ballcock in the tank will stop the water entering the tank.  The two items aren't linked to each other.  The timer is battery operated.
It means my system is pumpless and that my water pressure is around 35 PSI.  I use a HF5 40" membrane as it's meant to be reasonably OK at lower pressures.  Not the greatest TDS out nor the greatest production figures - but it does me OK.