[Roger Koh]

Re: perm. marker on wool rug
Posted By bryan ohaleck on 11/18/2010 at 7:10 PM
I'd always use alcohol (grain, if you can get it easily) first. When dye transfer stops, flood the area with OMS or other non-volatile solvent and then alternate applying ammonia and a hot detergent rinse. Once you've reached the end of dye transfer from this method you can move on to color strippers.

Just remember to protect the fiber from agitation so the clean nap doesn't look worse than the art.

It might be permanent.

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Here’s an alternative:


A “Green” approach to Permanent Marker Removal on Wool!

These sequences of pictures show how Permanent Marker is being removed by a “wet-system” without the use of solvent.

#1.  A “Sharpie Permanent Marker Stain Test” on a Chinese Wool Rug.
>

#2. Application of an odorless, water-based pH 7.7 Ink Stain Removal.


#3. Agitating the stain with a spatula.


#4. Extracting the suspended stain with cotton swab.


#5. Remove sticky residue with a pH 5.6 Wool Degreaser follows by a pH 4.0 Wool Rinse.


#6. The tools of the trade!


Note: To control dye bleeding acidified it with a pH 2.0 Acidifier.
Ammonia makes the dyes to bleed, a pH 2.0 Acidifier stops it.

What do you think?

Roger Koh
info@leatherdoctor.org

[Neil Williams]

How long had ink from the marker pen been on the backing of that rug?

[Roger Koh]

Well about 15 minutes, as this was a test.

If this interest you I shall remove the other letter in a monthly interval.

Lets say the next schedule time shall be December 19 and so forth.

The longer the permanent marker sits there the tougher it gonna be, do you agree?


Roger Koh
info@leatherdoctor.org

[Neil Williams]

The longer the permanent marker sits there the tougher it gonna be, do you agree?

Without doubt Yes.
It's all very well getting a fresh stain out but what we have to deal with in the real world, is a stain 4 weeks old and usually after the owner has had a go with various substances.

So what I suggest you do is write out the words TEST a few more times, then scrub various letters/words with various everyday substances. Wait 5 days then try your products again, because that will be nearer to the situations we come across.

We'd all love to deal with fresh untreated stains, but this rarely happens.

[Roger Koh]

Yes that's why I started with the "E" for "Easy"!

Wait until I try the "T" in a months time - that will be "Tough".

Another "T" in another month's time - that will be "Tougher".

And subsequently the "S" in another month's time - that will be "Stupid".

Unless I can get is all out equally beautifully done - which I believe it would be not a problem...just need a longer dwelling time to re-emulsify the dried up stains to be absorbed away as shown.

Otherwise there is such a thing as a "wool-safe" bleach, pH 10.3 that will not "cook" the wool.



Roger Koh
info@leatherdoctor.org

[ianharper]

Roger

well done, very professional

Respects

Ian Harper

[Roger Koh]

Cons:
1] “Alcohol” dries too fast to keep the release ink in constant suspension for easy absorption with cotton swab; thus need repeated application.
2] “Ammonia” helps to release the ink; but may also bleed those red dyes especially on Orientals rugs.
3] “OMS” – no more fancy using solvent of any kind; if there is a “green” alternative for reasons of hazardous, toxicity, environment and storage.

Pros:
1] This water-based odorless pH 7.7 Ink Remover with its high viscosity stays put and engulf the stain; penetrating, lubricating and suspending it during the dwelling process and it can be left there to work on its own even up to three days without evaporating away. That makes it easy for the suspended ink to be blot away.
2] Wool is well known for its absorbency and as the suspended stains dries up; it’s quickly being reabsorbed by the wool fiber. That is how the pH 5.6 Wool Degreaser in the second step helps in suspending the stains for being reabsorbed by the wool – rinse-free.
3] The third step is to remove all residues with a pH 4.0 Wool Rinse.

This “Green” approach applies not only to permanent marker but include ballpoint ink, india ink, stamp pad ink and dye transfer from blue jean, ink prints and news prints.
It’s for all natural and synthetic fibers except silk and rayon.

Is there another “Green” system that I am not aware of?


Roger Koh
info@leatherdoctor.org

[Neil Williams]

Is there another “Green” system that I am not aware of?

Some of this sounds familiar, particulary in how it works.
World of Clean or better known as Solutions perhaps?