How about putting a metal frame around the tank but elongated to the rear and with a cross member that would sit 'behind' the wheel arches?

So looking from above the leading edge of the frame would extend to behind the door pillars and the tank leading edge against the bulkhead; then a long support each side of the tank with a cross member at the back of the tank and a final cross member at the rear behind but up against the wheel arches?

Also strapped down.

I was told that you were supposed to keep them running all day and only use a bypass into the tank when driving between jobs as  stopping the water with a tap or univale will damage the unit.
I wasn't sure so thought I'd ask especially now as it will be getting colder.

I wish my memory was better, but under normal flow conditions (3 on our Varistreams so about 30 on Spring controllers), we were running at a pressure of just less than 50psi when I did fit a pressure gauge on our delivery hose. Sorry, but that was over 15 years ago, probably longer. Granted, we were still on pencil jets and minibore hose, but we were also using cold water. Hot water will require less pressure for the same flow rate.

Remember, the first Shurflo pumps we were using were rated at 65psi and we didn't have any issue working with a 40' pole fully extended.

Back in 2019 there was a windie on the other forum (P & F) who reported the following:

"This is self built, air heater to water heater conversion, once the pole is turned off the water diverts to a 50 psi pressure relief valve and then back to tank
The way I have it set with my simple pump controller pictured earlier means the pump draws 2.5 amp with open flow and 3 amp when the PRV is in use."

This means the pump pumps water through the heat exchanger all the time. When you shut the flow off with your tap or Univalve the hot water is diverted back to the tank. This keeps the boiler working.

Simply you tee off the hose to the hose reel to the inlet of this pressure relief valve. The other end of the pressure relief valve is connected to the tank.

Quote from: zesty on December 07, 2025, 03:31:58 pm

Quote from: KS Cleaning on December 07, 2025, 11:06:41 am

Quote from: zesty on December 07, 2025, 09:43:29 am

I looked at the rescue card ages ago:

https://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/Catalog/service_tip_files/Ford_Transit_Custom_Van_2025_5d_Electric_EN.pdf

Shows you all the dimensions of the battery and motor etc.

I’ve decided when I get one, I’ll be using the lashing points and a flag tank.

The battery goes as far as back as the side load door. So not good for tanks being bolted down. You’d have to faff about dropping the battery.

That’s good info Zesty cheers. From that it looks like flat tank ratchet strapped is gonna be the only way to go. Do you reckon the lashing points will need to be reinforced for a flat tank?

My plan is to use the lashing points and glue down (yes I know it sounds mad) the tank with tonnes of adhesive foam or Stixall etc. these modern adhesives are unbelievably strong, like seriously strong. I’d prime the floor for better adhesion. With a flat tank, lashed down and glued, it won’t go anywhere.

Hoping to get the e custom sport in spring. Just hanging on until they come done to 20k plus vat second hand.

How will you eventually remove the tank once it's been glued down?

With a lot of hard work 

Alternatively, I’d sell it as a window cleaning van.

The glue option would probably only be used if the straps weren’t sufficient. The other option is to glue down some sort of framing round the tank, I.e some 2x4 timber layed flat. Just to help prevent the tank sliding.

There is a few options, but likely I’ll be going for a smaller tank, flat and strapped down with the appropriate straps.

I was told that you were supposed to keep them running all day and only use a bypass into the tank when driving between jobs as  stopping the water with a tap or univale will damage the unit.
I wasn't sure so thought I'd ask especially now as it will be getting colder.

It's important to stop your heater from going into its 3 min shut down cycle so you need to plug your hose into return valves in between jobs. You can turn off the water in between windows but don't leave it turned off for longer than a minute or it'll shut down.

Diesel heaters work best by keeping them running all through your working day.

Does it effect the heater if you use a univalve or tap .

Just that it stops hot water going to the brush head. If your heater doesn't have a by pass valve then the internal hot water circuit will continue to heat up until it reaches the temperature when power down is triggered by the boiler.

The plate heat exchanger/s is/are designed to take the pressure difference between the internal hot water circuit and the pressure in the brush supply hoses with the Univalve or tap is switched off.

Why are you asking?