[Don Kee]

Get to a truck stop and jetwash the underneath

Once its dried, waxyoil the underneath of the van.
Every thing from wheel arches to floor/chassis (same thing these days)
Tske off the spare wheel and do the bit that it would cover

As long as theres no surface rust there already and you waxyoil it, then you'll be fine

Dont know why every transit owner doesnt do it to be honest...

(Chances are you'll still get a bit of surface on thr outside of the sills, but just keep on top of it. Will be a while yet until you get that though if you've got a 12plate)

Or better still don't buy an old transit 

He's bought a 12plate, I'd hardly call a 3 year old van old..?

[Mike #1]

My truck has rust underneath it after 5 yrs nothing serious mind you but it's only  a matter of time .

[paul alan]

Don kee tar for the tip!  Sounds like its worth doing.   I'm thinking this through and if I take up the ply and protectakote the floor then I haven't got anything to secure my reels to? I prefer reels in place, have mounted them on small tables coming off ply arches , braced to ply on the floor. If I took all the ply away I'm limiting my fixing space right? I'm guessing drilling the van floor would be a bad idea. And if i put the ply back down after painting would that ok, or problematic?
Cheers

[SeanK]

You need to get underneath and check if there is any bare metal if not then you will only be coating the coating/paint that is
already there.
That was the problem with the cars that Walter was talking about in the 70's and 80's (Japanese and Fiats where the worst) was that they actually rusted under the paint work because the rust was already in the metal before it was applied, If its the same with
modern day Fords which I suspect it is then there nothing you can really do.

[paulben]

Had an old Hiace no problem with rust bit biggest prob was some idiot hit it and wrote it off

[Spruce]

Hi just had bed news about my beloved 2004 transit swb, rotten underneath! Will need 25+ hours welding quoted at £1000 +.  Just got a 12 plate and don't want the same problem after only 3 yrs, I've gotta admit I haven't been the most careful with my van and truly regret it as this I can't really afford right now.
So if your like me and are going to sort the van out......soon ........then go and do it quick as I reckon I could of sold my van for around 2k as its really nice and clean,great engine, 90k.
Now I'm in debt.
 I need to know how to properly waterproof the floor in the newer van? Can anyone help?
 Also I keep having leaks on my 1/2" garden hose coming from my pump to my reels, little ones here and here(it's a DIY setup 600ltr ibc to pump to2 reels) which fitting and hose should I have in place as these seem as though there almost not compatible
 Help here wil be massively appreciated as I can't wreck this van as well.
Many thanks
Paul.

I would try to decide where the rot was coming from first tbh.

If its coming from underneath then Don's suggestion of doing an under seal is a good idea.

If it coming from above then you need to make your van as dry as possible by fixing the system leaks.

We chose to totally remove the plyline floor and  Protectakote the floor. Protectakote does 'seal' the metal and is a non slip coating. I won't put the ply back as I would want the van floor to dry out a quickly as possible when a spill happens. I wouldn't want water under the ply to sit and start the rust cancer.

We have a couple of rubber mats in the rear section to save the floor coating from damage from the hose reels.

[Scrimble]

its a transit van what do you expect! they come with rust as standard,

[EandM]

A friend of mine got me in Waxoyling back in the eighties and I've oiled and waxoyled all my current vehicles. It's preserved my Capri very well, which is now 29 years old, and kept the rust at bay in my Ranger. My aforementioned friend always ran Sherpas but has now moved on to Transits and each one, despite his valiant efforts, has rotted out irretrievably. There seems to be something in the internal design where certain sections of the chassis are completely inaccessible for treating. I don't anyone whose had success in regards in the Transit which is a  shame as they are a cracking vehicle. 

[paul alan]

How is everyone attaching their reels? I like to have mine secured and it currently is, to the ply.
 Is it ok to fix the reels to the van floor?  Wouldn't feel right drilling it out n all.
 And how do people leak proof their hose connections in van? Would love to know as I'm
Unsuccessful with it.
Cheers

[Susan Dean (1stclean)]

speedline it simple as that

if your spending money on a 12 reg  van that your going to keep for years then spend the cash on getting it done right , or the cheaper fiber glassing route 

[Mike #1]

Or buy a Pickup Truck with a plastic load liner water runs straight out the back 

[EandM]

Or buy a Pickup Truck with a plastic load liner water runs straight out the back 

Yep, that seems to be the solution.
Think the Transit issue is water is picking up from the road and / or condensation inside the structure.
Low bake oven after every rain storm perhaps ?

[slap bash]

Salt grit is a major reason for rusting on a van as the gravel and grit/salt  flies up while
 driving  removes paint like sand blasting and the salt and water does the rest. You will find in hotter countries were they also have the same vans built here never rust.

[Lakes and Pennine]

getting damp under the cab mats as well. Those mats are nothing but big sponges, once there wet its hard to get dry.
Got de humid in mine at present, but after debacle with movano i would stick to the tranny