[johnny bravo]

ive just nelt on my van floor covered with lino,     crack,      looked under lino and its soacked,     need to get it all out and dry it all,  i knew i had leaks from hose reel to pole hose connector,   but thought too small a leak,         how wrong was i,     i let it build up as its covered,    crap
     is there a more secure leak free fitting instead of the  e z snap, male to female connectors i use   from gardiners
this seems to be the main culprit.

Maybe visit a hydraolics company to ask

[RPCCS]

Quote from: johnny bravo on Today at 02:20:32 pm
ive just nelt on my van floor covered with lino,     crack,      looked under lino and its soacked,     need to get it all out and dry it all,  i knew i had leaks from hose reel to pole hose connector,   but thought too small a leak,         how wrong was i,     i let it build up as its covered,    crap
     is there a more secure leak free fitting instead of the  e z snap, male to female connectors i use   from gardiners
this seems to be the main culprit.

Maybe visit a hydraolics company to ask


its not the connector that is leaking, it will be the hose on the connector. What method are you securing the hose to the connector with?  You need these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MIKALOR-DOUBLE-SINGLE-EAR-CLIPS-O-CLAMP-ZINC-PLATED-STEEL-10-OR-20-PACK/222548116827?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=521392284602&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649  if you don't have the crimping pliers,   
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ORing-O-Clips-Pinchers-Pliers-O-Ring/162815670410?hash=item25e891f88a:g:StAAAOxyGqZSXlTR

 they can be got from most tool suppliers, but you can use side cutters, like wire snips in the meantime.  Remove your connector, and about 3mm of hose end to get a better seal, slide one of the connectors on the hose, push hose right to end of hose tail, then slide o ring to end of hose and crimp.  For pole hose which is generally 6mm inner diameter, use 7-9 mm clips, for reel hose which his 8mm, use 9-11mm clips, or for standard garden hose which is 1/2", use 14-16mm.

[johnny bravo]

o ring on pole hose,    hose clip screw type on reel hose,     decent price o rings,  ill check  and change

[johnny bravo]

everything will have to come out,   and try to dry board out,    it may be too damaged with water.  may need to replace,   i knew i should have pained it with fence paint or ronseal.   water must be getting into   holes around the van anchor points., nightmare

[RPCCS]

You could do what I did, put a couple of layers of waterproof membrane on the van floor, on top of your ply liner. You can get it from screwfix.

[johnny bravo]

it all has to come up,     looked today   too much water under ply wood,    emptying van tomorrow to get water out,   cant see whee its come from,     ill check when i refit,  need some new wood base putting in,  or stable mats,  but cant find any around my area

[Don Kee]

Dont put wood down on the floor?

Maybe rubber matting instead?

[P @ F]

I have never lined a floor with anything , i dont see the point , all it does is mask what might be going on and adding weight , instead of spending money on linings , spend it on decent fittings that dont leak .   

[johnny bravo]

im taking it all out tomorrow, put a pallet in to stand tank on for stability.      see how to go from there

[johnny bravo]

i want to put stable mats down but cant get any local.

[tom20001]

I have never lined a floor with anything , i dont see the point , all it does is mask what might be going on and adding weight , instead of spending money on linings , spend it on decent fittings that dont leak .

Do you fibreglass the van floor at all?

[johnny bravo]

no   looks a bit of a carry on,    ive thought about it

[Perfect Windows]

If you want to keep it dry, fix even the tiniest leak (which you're doing) and fit a rotating van air pump:

http://www.flettner.co.uk/applications/commercial-van-ventilation/

Drill a big hole (or several small ones) in the bulkhead (if you have one).  Then every mile you drive or every minute the van's parked and the wind's blowing, damp air will be sucked out of the van to be replaced by dry air coming in through the vents.  I'm off for a couple of weeks at the mo and I know that when I get back in the van all the cloths that were wet will be bone dry. A 10mph breeze will change the air in the van about once every half hour. Driving at about 40mph will change the air in five minutes or so.

I used to get a thin layer of white mould on the ply lining on the walls of the van in winter - never see it since fitting the extractor.

Vin

[P @ F]

I have never lined a floor with anything , i dont see the point , all it does is mask what might be going on and adding weight , instead of spending money on linings , spend it on decent fittings that dont leak .

Do you fibreglass the van floor at all?

No paint , plywood , nothing whatsoever goes on my floor , just a piece of foam mat to stop the w/c bucket sliding , you need air to get to it , that what keeps it dry , widows cracked and doors open when safe is the oreder of the day .
If your system is leak free you are 90% there , all i get is very slight condensation on the tank sides , so slight that it does not even form into drips and run off !

[johnny bravo]

that was my plan after last winter to set up a air vent in roof,  never got round to getting it done

[windowswashed]

Homebase are selling large 5mm rubber van mats for vans for £15 instead of £30, bought one to put down inside when I empty tank out

[johnny bravo]

interlocking mats  x 9   , is this just as a anti slip function