[andy east sussex]

quick question I know I have to flush ro 4040 system with salt but can anyone please explain how to do it please

[traps7]

That's wrong.

Don't flush your 4040 with salt. You flush with ordinary tap water by having the waste tap on full waste.

The salt is to backwash and regenerate your water softener resin.

[andy east sussex]

so the granular salt is for only flushing the di ?

[SPE]

so the granular salt is for only flushing the di ?

Its not for di, di goes after the ro , softener resin is something entirely different and is used as the first process in systems with very hard water to pre soften it before the ro system (if needed), this is recommended by manufacturers of ro's to prolong the life of the membrane however I don't think many use this at all.
Simon

[andy east sussex]

we have hard water in the south east its all chalk water here so I guess I do have to use it as tds coming out of tap is around 250ppm

[andy east sussex]

sorry got it wrong coming from tap is 296

[andy east sussex]

coming out of ro at 033 in to tank then way out after di 002

[andy east sussex]

but not producing much water though there's more waste than anything if I cut down on so much waste my ppm goes up any ideas

[andy east sussex]

2 litres a minute waste
1 litre or pure 50 secs

[andy east sussex]

this is my system but bit confused because it goes sediment - carbon then the di canister on the right then in to ro. the left di if for polishing water after its been in tank in picture 1 then if you look at pic 2 I have a canister on the side which I believe is for flushing but where do I connect it to

[Spruce]

I think Andy has one of those basic water softeners that use a di vessel to store the salt in.

The sequence for your setup is;

water softener, containing salt. Water passes through the salt and the calcium and magnesium ions are removed and replaced with sodium ions. (The water will still be 296 at the tap, but salt is kinder to the membranes than calcium and/or magnesium.)

then r/o unit comprising of,

sediment filter,
carbon block filter/filters - there maybe 2 of them - a GAC filter and then a carbon block,
4040 housing with membrane,

then a di vessel on the pure line to either van mounted tank or IBC holding tank. This di vessel will be filled with resin to 'polish' off the remaining tds to zero.

On the 4040 housing you will have the water inlet from your filters, then a waste and pure outlets on the other end if its a champ housing. The pure will go to the di and the waste will go to the drain/soakaway.

On the waste will be a valve of some sort that will allow you to restrict the amount of waste going to the drain. We have ours closed to a point where its producing about 1 litre of pure to 1 litre of waste. This is giving us a 98 - 99%% rejection rate ( eg., 125 ppm (TDS) in, 2ppm out.)

To flush, we open this valve fully allowing the water to wash over the top of the membrane and flush any deposits way. To stop flushing, close the valve until you have you waste to pure ratio at about 1 to 1.

If you can't achieve a pure ppm of around 5 to 6 with a tap tds of 296, then you may need to replace your membrane.

We have 40 psi at the tap, use an HF5 membrane and do not have a booster pump.

NB!

Do not flush your membrane with tap water as that contains chlorine - chlorine is a membrane destroyer. Only flush with water that has been through a reqularily replaced carbon block filter.
 

[andy east sussex]

I cant seem to add pictures

[Spruce]

I cant seem to add pictures

try the box toward the top of the web page - upload images - select files rather than add additional options after the box down the bottom.

[andy east sussex]

[andy east sussex]

[andy east sussex]

[Spruce]

So according to those pictures, they have a salt wash (water softener) after the prefilters and before r/o. (Streamline call the stuff that goes in the salt wash a 'softner resin SR25.') The waste valve is at the other end of the housing closest to the side door. It has a green hose from it. The other pipe is from the pure outlet directly into the tank. It looks like the di vessel is situated after the tank and comes into play polishing of the water before going to the brush. (Streamline call this 'De-mineralising resin - they sell either Dowex MB50 or Tulsion MB111. We find Tulsion resin MB115 works well as do most cleaners.)

Edit.

I would guess that the prefilter on the left hand side of the system facing the door with a hose is probably what is used to flush the system. If you open it, it should contain another chlorine block filter if that is the case. So the inlet to this prefilter would be from the mains tap and the outlet would go the the r/o inlet (disconnect the pipe at the resin softner and join it at that point. When you have flushed to r/o return everything to the way it was.) As it would appear your system is controlled by a solenoid valve that will switch the inlet water supply off when your tank is full. If the tank is full, then the only way to flush the r/o after that is manually using a prefilter to remove the chlorine.

I see there is a 13amp plug which I presume goes to the charger to charge the battery.

If this system is new to you, I would replace all filters first, ie 2 carbon block and 1 sediment and then flush your system. If the pure figures are still high, then replace the r/o membrane. If your water pressure is around 40 / 50 then an HF5 membrane - anything over 50, an HF4 will work fine.

[andy east sussex]

would it be best if I just took the softener one out so I just have sediment and carbon the strait to ro would that work better would you say of not really any difference

[andy east sussex]

or is it best for it to go before prefilters as its extremely confusing for a beginner in this game when it shouldn't be confusing

[PoleKing]

I cant seem to add pictures

try the box toward the top of the web page - upload images - select files rather than add additional options after the box down the bottom.

Sorry to hijack but I would like to post a pic in another thread.
I haven't got an upload images button...
Is it cause I'm on iPad or cause I'm blooming blind?!
Please help me!!

[andy east sussex]

anyone know if would be best to just remove the softner or just to keep it

[Spruce]

anyone know if would be best to just remove the softner or just to keep it

You can remove the water softner completely. The softener removes the calcium and magnesium ions from the water and replaces them with sodium ions. Sodium ions are much kinder to r/o membranes.

The first thing I would do is remove the salt wash and replace both the prefilters, 1 with a sediment filter and the other a carbon block filter. Couple the inlet hose to the first prefilter (sediment) and direct the waste to a drain.

Open the waste tap totally and switch on the tap. Allow that to flush for a while, say 10 minutes. Then switch the water off. You then want to uncouple the pipe that goes from the r/o to the tank and put another length of hose on it. You need to do this so you can take pure water samples to test the tds of.

Switch tap water back on and slowly close the waste tap, but not completely. You need to get to a spot where the waste is about the same quantity as the pure. Take regular samples of the pure, slightly opening and closing the tap until you achieve the best result. As I said earlier, if the membrane is ok then you will be getting a tds of around 5-6.

If it isn't, then you will need to replace the membrane. Depending on water pressure, it will either be an HF4 or HF5.

If the membrane has been allowed to dry out or has stood idle for any length of time, then you may have to replace it - sorry.

Once you get the system sorted, then you can fill it with the correct salt and put it back in the system. You may need to phone Streamline and ask them when the salt needs to be changed and how you know when to change it.

I can't get you their telephone number. I have a lovely 82 page 2013 catalogue on my desk - not a telephone number or address to be seen anywhere - what a waste of money.                                                                                                                     

[andy east sussex]

thank you so much spruce

[Spruce]

thank you so much spruce

I hope I have been of some help.

Water purification seems very complicated when you first start, but once you get your head around it, it becomes quite simple.

You also need to prepare your van so it's ready for winter. You need to make sure the membranes don't freeze, so you need a satisfactory form of heater with frost stat to ensure that doesn't happen. While winter is still a far while off, its good to get an action plan underway within the next few months so you don't get caught out.

I wish you the best. Please keep us informed of how you are progressing.

[GoodFella2006]

I cant seem to add pictures

try the box toward the top of the web page - upload images - select files rather than add additional options after the box down the bottom.

Sorry to hijack but I would like to post a pic in another thread.
I haven't got an upload images button...
Is it cause I'm on iPad or cause I'm blooming blind?!
Please help me!!

[MATT BATEMAN (OWC)]

I cant seem to add pictures

try the box toward the top of the web page - upload images - select files rather than add additional options after the box down the bottom.

Sorry to hijack but I would like to post a pic in another thread.
I haven't got an upload images button...
Is it cause I'm on iPad or cause I'm blooming blind?!
Please help me!!

Cos ur on iPad.

However that doesn't discount the fact that you may also be blind. Avoid porn sites at all costs.

[heath verrall]

Ive got a stremline system , it has two pre filters first then RO into the tank,then from the tank to a di vessel then the hose.

hope this helps

[andy east sussex]

also my streamline digital flow clock for water pump goes from 0 - 99 what best speed to work with or I guess it depends on hight

[Spruce]

also my streamline digital flow clock for water pump goes from 0 - 99 what best speed to work with or I guess it depends on hight

Your controller will compenate for height. As far as the setting is concerned, try at about 40 and see how you get on. As you get quicker cleaning the windows you will probably need to run the speed a bit higher for a higher water flow.

First cleans WFP will take time, so plan on a poor month financially. You will also be physically exhausted. Second cleans will be much easier provided you have 'taken the pain' on the first cleans. By the time the third and fourth clean are done, you will be much quicker as the windows will be 'sterile' and you will be more confident at using the pole.

[andy east sussex]

right I replaced sediment and carbon and took away the water softener which was after carbon filter and I could only get it down to 015 which I thought was strange so I added the softener again and water came down to 007 so my question is there a 10 inch water softener for theses systems instead of the big blue bottle

[Spruce]

right I replaced sediment and carbon and took away the water softener which was after carbon filter and I could only get it down to 015 which I thought was strange so I added the softener again and water came down to 007 so my question is there a 10 inch water softener for theses systems instead of the big blue bottle

A 10" softener won't last '5 minutes' I'm afraid.

[andy east sussex]

would this be any good for my system

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/D-D-125-PSI-RO-Booster-Pump-For-Reverse-Osmosis-Unit-/330642377244?pt=UK_Pet_Supplies_Fish&hash=item4cfbd24a1c#ht_1000wt_1091

[andyM]

would this be any good for my system

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/D-D-125-PSI-RO-Booster-Pump-For-Reverse-Osmosis-Unit-/330642377244?pt=UK_Pet_Supplies_Fish&hash=item4cfbd24a1c#ht_1000wt_1091

The pump in your link looks like it only has a 1.2 ltr per minute flow rate.
I've recently got a 4040 ro and I use a Clarke CBM240E booster pump.

[colin bird]

Any I'm in West Sussex Horsham also a hard water area,I have a pure freedom system  20 inch carbon and  20 sediment filters then into a 40 inch ro I change my filters every three months regardless of my tds reading and change my resin when readings start to rise over the last five and a half years all of my ro membranes only last approx 18 to 20 months my tds reading out of tap is 120 I also flush my system every couple of weeks for approx 45 mins.i feel it's just the hard wate that reduces the life span of filters and membranes in our area. Hope that's Been of help