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SeanK

Re: 40/40 membranes
« Reply #20 on: January 25, 2015, 10:17:39 pm »
how much pure is produced is determined by the pressure and water temperature.
What I mean by recover is see how much water production increases when water temp goes up.
The temp of my tap water is 10c at the moment which will surely have an adverse affect on production.
Normally a brand new membrane deals alot better with cold water, I see huge improvements when its changed, hence why I use to do it every year.

No it doesn't my 4040 is as quick now as it is at any time of the year, the cold weather has caused your water pressure to
drop a little so you need to boost it a bit more.
Put your money into a booster pump and don't worry about changing your membrane.

chris turner

  • Posts: 1500
Re: 40/40 membranes
« Reply #21 on: January 25, 2015, 10:42:42 pm »
I have a booster pump, membrane is 1 year old, nothing has changed in my setup other then the water is colder.
And yes cold water does affect production, fact.
Hf5 membranes handle cold water better then hf4, perhaps you have hf5?

Re: 40/40 membranes
« Reply #22 on: January 26, 2015, 07:15:36 pm »
No no no there's only one correct way to set up your 4040 as each membrane will wanna run different to the next. Open the valve fully and start to close it off and by doing so your tds reading will lower keep going until you get to the lowest tds reading possible. You will no where the lowest is because it will go so far and the reading will start to go up again then knock it back. I'd suggest putting on a inline tds meter saves you time, money and membranes. Rob.

Ratio has nothing to do with setting up so don't guess 50/50 or 60/40 it's not correct
Avo is correct.
Took some trial and error and a second membrane (after a couple of years ) when ordered from Phil at vyair, he advised me to set up this way.
Also to build a bypass for the waste valve - brilliant !  ;)
basically you put a t piece before and after the waste valve with a short section of pipe/hose running between them, in the middle of that you fit a tap/ball valve. Once you have set the waste valve to its optimum for lowest tds in pure production you need never adjust it again. You simply open the valve on the bypass to flush and close it when you want to produce pure water. If you are not already doing this, you should  ;)

Avo

  • Posts: 1634
Re: 40/40 membranes
« Reply #23 on: January 26, 2015, 08:57:18 pm »
No no no there's only one correct way to set up your 4040 as each membrane will wanna run different to the next. Open the valve fully and start to close it off and by doing so your tds reading will lower keep going until you get to the lowest tds reading possible. You will no where the lowest is because it will go so far and the reading will start to go up again then knock it back. I'd suggest putting on a inline tds meter saves you time, money and membranes. Rob.

Ratio has nothing to do with setting up so don't guess 50/50 or 60/40 it's not correct
Avo is correct.
Took some trial and error and a second membrane (after a couple of years ) when ordered from Phil at vyair, he advised me to set up this way.
Also to build a bypass for the waste valve - brilliant !  ;)
basically you put a t piece before and after the waste valve with a short section of pipe/hose running between them, in the middle of that you fit a tap/ball valve. Once you have set the waste valve to its optimum for lowest tds in pure production you need never adjust it again. You simply open the valve on the bypass to flush and close it when you want to produce pure water. If you are not already doing this, you should  ;)
now that's a great tip 😄👍 a bypass valve awesome mate
Might do this myself you got any pics to go with it please?

Avo

  • Posts: 1634
Re: 40/40 membranes
« Reply #24 on: January 26, 2015, 09:08:44 pm »
I put an inline tds coming off my 4040 so I could keep a close eye on things and it was the best £22 I spent on the system. Loads of people just guess there membrane rejection rates it's mental.

Re: 40/40 membranes
« Reply #25 on: January 26, 2015, 09:16:40 pm »
All copper plumbed as ro is in first floor flat and cannot have any failures or leaks ! ( and it was what I had lying around at the time) but you get the idea, could be done more simply with jg push fits and plastic pipe. waste valve is to the right and bypass and flush valve to the left. (open and flushing,  a quarter turn shuts it off to produce pure)  ;)

Re: 40/40 membranes
« Reply #26 on: January 26, 2015, 09:27:57 pm »
I put an inline tds coming off my 4040 so I could keep a close eye on things and it was the best £22 I spent on the system. Loads of people just guess there membrane rejection rates it's mental.
same !  :)
I have the meter on when I flush, tds starts high, and you need to be able to know when its dropped enough to close the flush valve ( can take up to 5 mins )

Avo

  • Posts: 1634
Re: 40/40 membranes
« Reply #27 on: January 26, 2015, 10:04:05 pm »
Simple but effective when it warms up a bit outside I might rig something up similar.
Cheers mate 👍

david mark

  • Posts: 468
Re: 40/40 membranes
« Reply #28 on: January 26, 2015, 10:36:00 pm »
Thats the same principle on a de or sand filtration systems for back washing  swimming Pool filters