[Dave Willis]

I have a live feed from my van battery. Every now and again the power goes off (light goes out on the switch). Lift the bonnet, remove the fuse, turn it around and away we go again for a few days. It's done the same thing with three different fuse holders over the years. I've cleaned the spade ends with alcohol and replaced it last night.

Any ideas? Do fuses arc? Does a deposit build on the spades?

[Spruce]

Dave,

I have the same problem on the fuse to the split charge relay. The contacts between the two surfaces (the fuse holder and the fuse) oxidise and creates a resistance. This is why some of those electronic couplers are so expensive as they use fancy materials (gold/platinum) to reduce this. After you have cleaned them up we found that a smear of vaseline helps to reduce this oxidisation.

12v isn't a great power carrier and isn't very good with poor connections. But it is a whole lot better than the 6v that powered my 1960 DKW back in the late sixties.

[SeanK]

Dave,
What you could try is removing the fuse from the engine compartment and putting it closer to the pump.
This would cut down on vibration and heat which might be causing the fuse holder to loosen.

[Spruce]

Dave,
What you could try is removing the fuse from the engine compartment and putting it closer to the pump.
This would cut down on vibration and heat which might be causing the fuse holder to loosen.

You need to have the fuse as close to the main vehicle's battery as possible to protect the circuit past it if the wiring is damaged.

[Dave Willis]

Did it again today - four times  Take the fuse out turn it around and all fine. It's nice and snug too did it with one of those glass type fuses too which is why I changed to the blue crimp on type. It's on top of the battery but the spades must get hot because there's always slight evidence of plastic melt in the holder. Fuse never blows. 

[Spruce]

Did it again today - four times  Take the fuse out turn it around and all fine. It's nice and snug too did it with one of those glass type fuses too which is why I changed to the blue crimp on type. It's on top of the battery but the spades must get hot because there's always slight evidence of plastic melt in the holder. Fuse never blows. 

It’s not making proper contact, so the resistance at these contact points creates heat. If you ran the pump continuously the holder will melt, but every time you switch the pump off (stop the flow) the heat dissipates.

It maybe best to replace the fuse holder as they never 'behave' once they get hot and a bit of distortion developes.

[Dave Willis]

Is there a much better fuseholder out there? Could be rattling against the battery I suppose when driving.

[Spruce]

Is there a much better fuseholder out there? Could be rattling against the battery I suppose when driving.

I would stop by your local motor factors and ask them for a good one. If the fuse isn't tight to fit into the holder them it won't last.