[telfordwindowclnr]

An interesting read....

I have done 5 vans over the years with Protectacote and I thinks it's brilliant. All of the vans I have done have been ply-lined. I sweep the ply out, vacuum it, do a PVA glue wash to seal the wood, then run a bead of silicone sealer around the edges. Gutter sealer is good because it stays flexible and allows a bit of give with the ply without breaking the seal.

I always go 1ft up the side walls with the whole process too to make sure I get a good seal all the way around and the ply does not rot on the sides either.

I give it two coats, but I rotate 270 degrees, not the 90 mentioned above.

I give it a good scrub with one of my wfp's every 3 months or so when I'm parked on a decent slope so that the water runs straight out the back or side door. Every Christmas we have a 10 day shut down and I give it another two coats then. I swap my vans every 3 years, so whenever someone buys a van from me, it has either 6 or even 8 coats of Protectacote down. Because of the chemical composition of the stuff, it keys into itself meaning you can add another coat whenever you want and it blends in with the rest, not just sits on top.

I've never had a problem with rust, I do have the occasional connector pop off a DI vessel and flood the van, but I don't care because I KNOW there are no holes for the water to seep into, we just park on a hill, open the back doors and wash the road for free!

Until Protectacote lets me down, I wouldn't consider another option.

[PoleKing]

An interesting read....

I have done 5 vans over the years with Protectacote and I thinks it's brilliant. All of the vans I have done have been ply-lined. I sweep the ply out, vacuum it, do a PVA glue wash to seal the wood, then run a bead of silicone sealer around the edges. Gutter sealer is good because it stays flexible and allows a bit of give with the ply without breaking the seal.

I always go 1ft up the side walls with the whole process too to make sure I get a good seal all the way around and the ply does not rot on the sides either.

I give it two coats, but I rotate 270 degrees, not the 90 mentioned above. isnt that the same, just turning the other way?

I give it a good scrub with one of my wfp's every 3 months or so when I'm parked on a decent slope so that the water runs straight out the back or side door. Every Christmas we have a 10 day shut down and I give it another two coats then. I swap my vans every 3 years, so whenever someone buys a van from me, it has either 6 or even 8 coats of Protectacote down. Because of the chemical composition of the stuff, it keys into itself meaning you can add another coat whenever you want and it blends in with the rest, not just sits on top.

I've never had a problem with rust, I do have the occasional connector pop off a DI vessel and flood the van, but I don't care because I KNOW there are no holes for the water to seep into, we just park on a hill, open the back doors and wash the road for free!

Until Protectacote lets me down, I wouldn't consider another option.

[telfordwindowclnr]

An interesting read....

I have done 5 vans over the years with Protectacote and I thinks it's brilliant. All of the vans I have done have been ply-lined. I sweep the ply out, vacuum it, do a PVA glue wash to seal the wood, then run a bead of silicone sealer around the edges. Gutter sealer is good because it stays flexible and allows a bit of give with the ply without breaking the seal.

I always go 1ft up the side walls with the whole process too to make sure I get a good seal all the way around and the ply does not rot on the sides either.

I give it two coats, but I rotate 270 degrees, not the 90 mentioned above. isnt that the same, just turning the other way?

I give it a good scrub with one of my wfp's every 3 months or so when I'm parked on a decent slope so that the water runs straight out the back or side door. Every Christmas we have a 10 day shut down and I give it another two coats then. I swap my vans every 3 years, so whenever someone buys a van from me, it has either 6 or even 8 coats of Protectacote down. Because of the chemical composition of the stuff, it keys into itself meaning you can add another coat whenever you want and it blends in with the rest, not just sits on top.

I've never had a problem with rust, I do have the occasional connector pop off a DI vessel and flood the van, but I don't care because I KNOW there are no holes for the water to seep into, we just park on a hill, open the back doors and wash the road for free!

Until Protectacote lets me down, I wouldn't consider another option.

No, you turn the same way, just half again. 

[DaveG]

Cheers chez

[PoleKing]

An interesting read....

I have done 5 vans over the years with Protectacote and I thinks it's brilliant. All of the vans I have done have been ply-lined. I sweep the ply out, vacuum it, do a PVA glue wash to seal the wood, then run a bead of silicone sealer around the edges. Gutter sealer is good because it stays flexible and allows a bit of give with the ply without breaking the seal.

I always go 1ft up the side walls with the whole process too to make sure I get a good seal all the way around and the ply does not rot on the sides either.

I give it two coats, but I rotate 270 degrees, not the 90 mentioned above. isnt that the same, just turning the other way?

I give it a good scrub with one of my wfp's every 3 months or so when I'm parked on a decent slope so that the water runs straight out the back or side door. Every Christmas we have a 10 day shut down and I give it another two coats then. I swap my vans every 3 years, so whenever someone buys a van from me, it has either 6 or even 8 coats of Protectacote down. Because of the chemical composition of the stuff, it keys into itself meaning you can add another coat whenever you want and it blends in with the rest, not just sits on top.

I've never had a problem with rust, I do have the occasional connector pop off a DI vessel and flood the van, but I don't care because I KNOW there are no holes for the water to seep into, we just park on a hill, open the back doors and wash the road for free!

Until Protectacote lets me down, I wouldn't consider another option.

No, you turn the same way, just half again. 

Get us.
Pythagoras should be scared.

[andyM]

An interesting read....

I have done 5 vans over the years with Protectacote and I thinks it's brilliant. All of the vans I have done have been ply-lined. I sweep the ply out, vacuum it, do a PVA glue wash to seal the wood, then run a bead of silicone sealer around the edges. Gutter sealer is good because it stays flexible and allows a bit of give with the ply without breaking the seal.

I always go 1ft up the side walls with the whole process too to make sure I get a good seal all the way around and the ply does not rot on the sides either.

I give it two coats, but I rotate 270 degrees, not the 90 mentioned above. isnt that the same, just turning the other way?

I give it a good scrub with one of my wfp's every 3 months or so when I'm parked on a decent slope so that the water runs straight out the back or side door. Every Christmas we have a 10 day shut down and I give it another two coats then. I swap my vans every 3 years, so whenever someone buys a van from me, it has either 6 or even 8 coats of Protectacote down. Because of the chemical composition of the stuff, it keys into itself meaning you can add another coat whenever you want and it blends in with the rest, not just sits on top.

I've never had a problem with rust, I do have the occasional connector pop off a DI vessel and flood the van, but I don't care because I KNOW there are no holes for the water to seep into, we just park on a hill, open the back doors and wash the road for free!

Until Protectacote lets me down, I wouldn't consider another option.

You mean he is taking a simple task and making it sound more technical than it really is?
I don't believe it.........

[telfordwindowclnr]

An interesting read....

I have done 5 vans over the years with Protectacote and I thinks it's brilliant. All of the vans I have done have been ply-lined. I sweep the ply out, vacuum it, do a PVA glue wash to seal the wood, then run a bead of silicone sealer around the edges. Gutter sealer is good because it stays flexible and allows a bit of give with the ply without breaking the seal.

I always go 1ft up the side walls with the whole process too to make sure I get a good seal all the way around and the ply does not rot on the sides either.

I give it two coats, but I rotate 270 degrees, not the 90 mentioned above. isnt that the same, just turning the other way?

I give it a good scrub with one of my wfp's every 3 months or so when I'm parked on a decent slope so that the water runs straight out the back or side door. Every Christmas we have a 10 day shut down and I give it another two coats then. I swap my vans every 3 years, so whenever someone buys a van from me, it has either 6 or even 8 coats of Protectacote down. Because of the chemical composition of the stuff, it keys into itself meaning you can add another coat whenever you want and it blends in with the rest, not just sits on top.

I've never had a problem with rust, I do have the occasional connector pop off a DI vessel and flood the van, but I don't care because I KNOW there are no holes for the water to seep into, we just park on a hill, open the back doors and wash the road for free!

Until Protectacote lets me down, I wouldn't consider another option.

You mean he is taking a simple task and making it sound more technical than it really is?
I don't believe it.........

Lol! Not gonna get embroiled in ANOTHER discussion about this, but who has the jobs for these large solar installers? I only abide by their rules.

[Spruce]

Hi Dave.
Ordered it from fibreglassdirect.co.uk not going to take the tank out as it is bolted through the floor. It's a 2 square metre pack inc of all tools and topcoat for £43
My flooring is rotten so I plan to just shape a new floor and edges. Was going to buy a ply line pack for the vw t5 but this would cost £140 odd with all panels. But as I only need the floor I'll make my own. Let you know how I get on!
cheers Chez

The problem was that you painted over the plylining in the first place. The only way "to do it properly" is to remove the tank and do the floor totally. No matter what, the floor will be damp under the tank, even if you don't spill any water as the tank 'sweats'.

As per Solar Steve, I have found protectakote to be pretty good stuff. The only wear is from the hose reel. I now have rubber matting where the hose reel sits.