[richard jagger]

 I want to shed some light on my own experience with Gas hot water heater and is based on my own experience and  others, and information I have researched on the web.
 1) stopping the 20 minute cut off.This does not work on time, but on the heat your heater will produce at the flame in the heat exchanger. So running at full bore will bring the safety feature in to work sooner. This is there to stop your gas water heater from overheating and a possible damage or bursting.
2) If the area is very cold at night or even as a precaution remover the plug in the unit to stop the unit bursting when it freezes. This is a brass perforated thick pin coming out of the heater at the bottom next to the cold inlet pipe.I am at this moment extending to protrude out at the bottom of the unit, so it will be easy to undo in the future. I might easer to locate if you remover the front of the water heater.
3) ON all hot water piping,were every possible use pvc piping ( not flexible tubing)as flexible tubing does not burst, but it does expand and prevents your pump shut of valve or controller from from working properly.
4) All pole hoses carrying hot water should be therm o pure or a hose made for hot or having a double reinforced hose there are a few on the market.
5)All John Guest fitting in a the pole hose should have a hose insert( Gardeners black  and cheap) so as to stop the hose slipping out when the hot water softens the hose and the water pressure pushing the hose out and a leak and even worse bursting out.To keep the inserts on I use small tie wire fitted while the hose is hot to give the best grip.
6) If you use a pole Tap or valve on your pole hose the section between this tap/valve should be Thermo bore and not pole hose.As this hoes takes a lot of pressure.
7) The idea lheat for cleaning windows is approximately  60 degrees this is based on window cleaners who have broken glass as members of this  forum in the past.At this temperature you will find you will avoid damage to your poles,hoses and system.
I will be happy if any one adds to this thread as this is a new to many and safety should be important to all of us.
Fell free to add your own experiences and solutions and I hope this will help having these problems with hot water.

[R.C Property]

I think you have covered everything there.

You can used this type of flexible hose to and from your boiler to help get round any tight bends etc.

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Plumbing/Flexible+Connectors/Flexible+Tap+Connector+15mm+x+12+13mm+Bore+900mm/d20/sd2807/p21163

All house grade plumbing.

[Dave Willis]

60 degrees?
I only clean at 30.
Aquadapter hose is great between push fit valve and hose reel.
Sucking water through the unit means it's not under pressure.
Car radiator hose works perfectly.
Digital controllers are too slow to adjust on hot water systems.

[R.C Property]

60 degrees?
I only clean at 30.
Aquadapter hose is great between push fit valve and hose reel.
Sucking water through the unit means it's not under pressure
Car radiator hose works perfectly.
Digital controllers are too slow to adjust on hot water systems.

most units have the pumps fitted before the heater to prevent damage to pump and to stop the heat reducing the life of the rubber diaphram.

[Dave Willis]

Not me.
I had it the other way for a while but the unit is then pressurised. I had the hoses swell, the controller fooled into adding too much pressure and the pressure release valve blow on the boiler. I also have the strainer before the heater to prevent particles entering the matrix.

[R.C Property]

Not me.
I had it the other way for a while but the unit is then pressurised. I had the hoses swell, the controller fooled into adding too much pressure and the pressure release valve blow on the boiler. I also have the strainer before the heater to prevent particles entering the matrix.

wouldnt the hose swell no matter what side you have the pump the hose will be under pressure either way, it would be just the heater that wouldnt be?
 
not sure about the  digital controllers, i dont use one, i made my own flow controller for my system.

[Dave Willis]

Pump can handle the temp I use  http://legacy.shurflo.com/pages/Food_Service/beverage/pdf/911314.pdf


How much pressure can the boiler take? 100 psi?

[richard jagger]

I M O the heater will take a lot more pressure than 100 psi the problem we have with is frozen water in the system there is about a table spoon of water in the valve just above the drain and this will expand i all direction which kill your unit as a matter of fact this small part costs 50 quid on a +- 00 quid unit and can put you out of work in this weather for 14 days.Count the loss of income and the picture change rapidly.
Leaving the pump on between washes and overnight is also a no no.This part could burst in a lunch break a friend had this happen ti him in a break of 30 minutes on a cold days of -1and chill factor.

[Dave Willis]

My pump controller gets switched on at 8.30 am gets turned back off around 4pm simples.

60 degrees is way too hot in my opinion (at the brush head) too.


http://www.gardinerpolesystems.co.uk/acatalog/Hot_Water_Brush__Use.html    may be of interest.

[wazzz]

Hi Smithie , thanks for the tips .

Point number 2 , yes that brass pin is fiddly to screw in and out  ( fog wash ) . Did you find a way to extend it ? I was looking at my bits n bobs to see if I could find a longer pin , but noticed that the original has an inner part .... It's more that just a plug , no idea what it is .... A mini pressure lease was my best guess ..... But I could be wrong .... Normally am .


I don't use it much , more of a back up , made from the spares I have and bolted on a sack truck .

[Dave Willis]

pressure release valve (adjustable).