[Dave Turley]

Hi all

I can't remember the last time I had to ask for advice on here but this one really has me stumped.

I checked my resin last night and the reading was the same on the out as it was on the in, so I decided to change my resin.

I use one of those blue upright 11 litre DI vessels.

Imagine my surprise when I came to tip out the spent resin and it had exactly the same appearance as when I put it in the vessel.

Usually I have to pour excess water off the top and the resin is all sloppy when I tip it out.

This time it was moist like how it comes in the bag and no excess water.

I didn't want to waste 11 litres of resin that possibly hasn't been used, so I decided to check that the water is actually entering the vessel and not just whizzing through the top black part without actually entering the vessel.

So I connected up the top black part (with the white stalk bit that descends into the vessel attached but not screwed into the vessel), to see what was happening.

I switched my water production and the product water came out of the top strainer part nice and fast.

Happy that seemed to be ok, I disconnected the top part, screwed it back into the vessel with the original resin and reconnected it.

I started my water production up again, left it for 5 minutes, and checked the TDS.
It was the same on the in and out side again so I removed the DI vessel and looked inside..... ..... .....

The resin was still dry!!!!!

I connected up my water production without the DI vessel so I could work today, but I'm using 12ppm as it comes out of my 4040.

I know from experience that 12ppm is unlikely to cause any quality problems but I need to get my DI vessel sorted asap.

And yes it is connected the right way round, the same as it always has been.

Has anyone else come across this before?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Dave

[♠Winp®oClean♠]

I've had this before & more than once! Could never understand how it happens. However, what to do is fill the vessel to the top with water (tap is fine) then put the head unit back on. You should always fill the vessel with water this way when you change the resin also.

[Fin Clearview]

I've had this before & more than once! Could never understand how it happens. However, what to do is fill the vessel to the top with water (tap is fine) then put the head unit back on. You should always fill the vessel with water this way when you change the resin also.

Can I ask as a newbie wfp'er why you say fill the vessel with water after you change resin, as I've never heard or seen that one yet.

Cheers

[Granny]

Hi Fin
""Can I ask as a newbie wfp'er why you say fill the vessel with water after you change resin, as I've never heard or seen that one yet.

Cheers ""
It's much easier to push the riser tube into the resin and screw down the head with water in the vessel, just ease it down little by little screwing down the head -  without water in the resin it's a lot harder.
I've got a Brodex manual and the way they tell you to refill is much more difficult with just dry resin and no water.
G.
 

[Spruce]

I have just got a DI and filled it for the first time with resin last week. You mustn't fill it to the top with resin ~ leave a space for the vessel head and riser tube.

The only way you can easily 'push' the riser tube into a di vessel full of resin is to fill the di vessel with water.  You can use tap water for this but I used the water from my IBC tank as it was 4 ppm. You can also use some water from your tank on the van if it has been through the r/o previously.

[♠Winp®oClean♠]

I've had this before & more than once! Could never understand how it happens. However, what to do is fill the vessel to the top with water (tap is fine) then put the head unit back on. You should always fill the vessel with water this way when you change the resin also.

Can I ask as a newbie wfp'er why you say fill the vessel with water after you change resin, as I've never heard or seen that one yet.

Cheers

As others have said, it makes it much easier to re-fit the head assembly. Also, it reduces the risk of problems with air.

[Alex Gardiner]

I've had this before & more than once! Could never understand how it happens. However, what to do is fill the vessel to the top with water (tap is fine) then put the head unit back on. You should always fill the vessel with water this way when you change the resin also.

This a top-tip and is exactly how I re-fill my DI vessels on my system.

 

[Llaaww]

I've had this before & more than once! Could never understand how it happens. However, what to do is fill the vessel to the top with water (tap is fine) then put the head unit back on. You should always fill the vessel with water this way when you change the resin also.

This a top-tip and is exactly how I re-fill my DI vessels on my system.

 

As above, but also if you use a gutter hopper it will cover the threads and keep them clearer of resin when it is  time to screw everything down.

[jouk45]

fill to the shoulder of the vessel only never to the top, add some water as suggested then twist in slowly can be hit or miss some times for the lid to screw on first time, a good tip is while your pouring water in the vessel is pour some water on both threads vessel and head to make sure no excess resin is on their as this will make it harder for the threads to seal together, apart from that good luck

[Fin Clearview]

Thanks for the tips, and good luck with your DI Dave.

[bumper]

i didnt put water in my resin was slightly damp and 12 months old but still makes 000 pure water,and the di was 3 times the weight with water in,is the a time limit on resin does it go off.
  thaks bumper

[Dave Turley]

Thanks a lot for your replies.

So do you all think that by filling my DI vessel with water, that will make my product water flow THROUGH the vessel?

Once I do that I won't  be able to tell if it's the same water I put in there or if it's product water that's replaced the tap water (other than by testing the TDS maybe).

I usually rinse the threads off but that's a great tip re making it easier to push the riser tube through the resin.

Thanks

Dave

[Alex Gardiner]

Thanks a lot for your replies.

So do you all think that by filling my DI vessel with water, that will make my product water flow THROUGH the vessel?

Once I do that I won't  be able to tell if it's the same water I put in there or if it's product water that's replaced the tap water (other than by testing the TDS maybe).

I usually rinse the threads off but that's a great tip re making it easier to push the riser tube through the resin.

Thanks

Dave

What may have been happening is that compacted dry resin had been allowing the water to channel straight up to the outlet without being treated properly.

What you need to do first of all is to test the resin to see if it is still working. To do this put a little resin from the vessel into a glass to about the half full mark. Then fill with tap water and swirl around for a little bit. Now pour out and test some of this treated water with a TDS meter. If the resin is working the water should be reading 000 or very close to.

Once this has been established as working you can then leave the rest of the resin in the vessel and then fill with water before re-fitting the riser and head. Now test the water going through, letting it run for a minute or so and then testing with a TDS meter.

[Dave Turley]

Thanks Alex.

I'll try that over the weekend.

Dave