[♠Winp®oClean♠]

Oh, & what do you think naturally evaporated water is before it absorbs atmospheric elements?


Anyway, so, we have two droplets of water each made from 020ppm water right. So both droplets contain 20 parts per million of dissolved solids, right?

So please explain how, if this water evaporates quicker for one droplet than the other the 020ppm has changed? In-fact, I'd bet on the slower (cooler) side of the house being worse if anything as if the droplet is there for longer, the better the chance of it absorbing foreign elements!

So, to answer your question, yes, I do know how pur water works!

[Window Washers]

i dont understand some of you.i think its important to keep your tds as low as possible.pure water is what we use to clean windows!!why run the risk of spotting?

pure water is mildly solvent and "cuts" through the dirt and soaks up the crap quicker.read up likes been said.its true.

i personally dont let it go past 005 then i put a second FRESH DI vessel in front of the first one until the first one gets to my tap tds level.i make the most of my resin then.

No disrespect Daz but while you were in your wfp nappies I was testing resins, testing windows with varying TDS's, creating & bringing to you all the twin DI system. Yep. Dave Morris & the owner of WCW used to laugh when I insisted that there was a considerable difference between resin brands, They both insisted Purolite was the same as Tulsion & Dowex- I wonder what reaction they'd get now if they said the same? Just look what resin WCW sell (that they didn't used to). I've developed a technique which you can wfp ANY window & get top results including all first cleans & old wooden windows regardless of how oxidized they are.

They question is not about when you should ideally change resin but more about what is fact in real world term! I don't need to read up on the properties of pure water, I've done it- & before you even thought about it.

The weather will make zero difference to whether your water spots or not- only to how easy it is to see it if it is there! Water quality will virtually NEVER be the issue with poor results with a TDS of 40 & below regardless of weather or if it's a first clean or not. A first clean is a first clean & exactly the same will happen whether you use 000 or 030ppm water!

Don't get paranoid over a few ppm, most of what you read on here about it is nonsense in real terms & usually not even first hand information, just someone re-writing what they've read before.

you bought us twin di system ? you been on the whiskey ?

[♠Winp®oClean♠]

i dont understand some of you.i think its important to keep your tds as low as possible.pure water is what we use to clean windows!!why run the risk of spotting?

pure water is mildly solvent and "cuts" through the dirt and soaks up the crap quicker.read up likes been said.its true.

i personally dont let it go past 005 then i put a second FRESH DI vessel in front of the first one until the first one gets to my tap tds level.i make the most of my resin then.

No disrespect Daz but while you were in your wfp nappies I was testing resins, testing windows with varying TDS's, creating & bringing to you all the twin DI system. Yep. Dave Morris & the owner of WCW used to laugh when I insisted that there was a considerable difference between resin brands, They both insisted Purolite was the same as Tulsion & Dowex- I wonder what reaction they'd get now if they said the same? Just look what resin WCW sell (that they didn't used to). I've developed a technique which you can wfp ANY window & get top results including all first cleans & old wooden windows regardless of how oxidized they are.

They question is not about when you should ideally change resin but more about what is fact in real world term! I don't need to read up on the properties of pure water, I've done it- & before you even thought about it.

The weather will make zero difference to whether your water spots or not- only to how easy it is to see it if it is there! Water quality will virtually NEVER be the issue with poor results with a TDS of 40 & below regardless of weather or if it's a first clean or not. A first clean is a first clean & exactly the same will happen whether you use 000 or 030ppm water!

Don't get paranoid over a few ppm, most of what you read on here about it is nonsense in real terms & usually not even first hand information, just someone re-writing what they've read before.

you bought us twin di system ? you been on the whiskey ?

Yes Ian as you remind me about yourself- there's things you also don't know about me eh?

[Window Washers]

i dont understand some of you.i think its important to keep your tds as low as possible.pure water is what we use to clean windows!!why run the risk of spotting?

pure water is mildly solvent and "cuts" through the dirt and soaks up the crap quicker.read up likes been said.its true.

i personally dont let it go past 005 then i put a second FRESH DI vessel in front of the first one until the first one gets to my tap tds level.i make the most of my resin then.

No disrespect Daz but while you were in your wfp nappies I was testing resins, testing windows with varying TDS's, creating & bringing to you all the twin DI system. Yep. Dave Morris & the owner of WCW used to laugh when I insisted that there was a considerable difference between resin brands, They both insisted Purolite was the same as Tulsion & Dowex- I wonder what reaction they'd get now if they said the same? Just look what resin WCW sell (that they didn't used to). I've developed a technique which you can wfp ANY window & get top results including all first cleans & old wooden windows regardless of how oxidized they are.

They question is not about when you should ideally change resin but more about what is fact in real world term! I don't need to read up on the properties of pure water, I've done it- & before you even thought about it.

The weather will make zero difference to whether your water spots or not- only to how easy it is to see it if it is there! Water quality will virtually NEVER be the issue with poor results with a TDS of 40 & below regardless of weather or if it's a first clean or not. A first clean is a first clean & exactly the same will happen whether you use 000 or 030ppm water!

Don't get paranoid over a few ppm, most of what you read on here about it is nonsense in real terms & usually not even first hand information, just someone re-writing what they've read before.

you bought us twin di system ? you been on the whiskey ?

Yes Ian as you remind me about yourself- there's things you also don't know about me eh?

fair point but i do remember dave and his resin woes which at the time I thought was madness

[gary999]

i dont understand some of you.i think its important to keep your tds as low as possible.pure water is what we use to clean windows!!why run the risk of spotting?

pure water is mildly solvent and "cuts" through the dirt and soaks up the crap quicker.read up likes been said.its true.

i personally dont let it go past 005 then i put a second FRESH DI vessel in front of the first one until the first one gets to my tap tds level.i make the most of my resin then.

No disrespect Daz but while you were in your wfp nappies I was testing resins, testing windows with varying TDS's, creating & bringing to you all the twin DI system. Yep. Dave Morris & the owner of WCW used to laugh when I insisted that there was a considerable difference between resin brands, They both insisted Purolite was the same as Tulsion & Dowex- I wonder what reaction they'd get now if they said the same? Just look what resin WCW sell (that they didn't used to). I've developed a technique which you can wfp ANY window & get top results including all first cleans & old wooden windows regardless of how oxidized they are.

They question is not about when you should ideally change resin but more about what is fact in real world term! I don't need to read up on the properties of pure water, I've done it- & before you even thought about it.

The weather will make zero difference to whether your water spots or not- only to how easy it is to see it if it is there! Water quality will virtually NEVER be the issue with poor results with a TDS of 40 & below regardless of weather or if it's a first clean or not. A first clean is a first clean & exactly the same will happen whether you use 000 or 030ppm water!

Don't get paranoid over a few ppm, most of what you read on here about it is nonsense in real terms & usually not even first hand information, just someone re-writing what they've read before.

mmm  i definatley on some properties get problems
if i use water above 10ppm normally around 25ppm per million it becomes noticible
this is on regular cleans

no disrespect meant mate just because you have done testing and come to some
conclusions dont be so arrogant to believe only you know best and nobody else
could possibly bring anything new or more well imformed imformation to the table

remember we arent talking about new string theories within quantum physics
its only window cleaning nothing to get carried away with yourself about.

after all dont forget you are only a window licker

[Window Washers]

i dont understand some of you.i think its important to keep your tds as low as possible.pure water is what we use to clean windows!!why run the risk of spotting?

pure water is mildly solvent and "cuts" through the dirt and soaks up the crap quicker.read up likes been said.its true.

i personally dont let it go past 005 then i put a second FRESH DI vessel in front of the first one until the first one gets to my tap tds level.i make the most of my resin then.

No disrespect Daz but while you were in your wfp nappies I was testing resins, testing windows with varying TDS's, creating & bringing to you all the twin DI system. Yep. Dave Morris & the owner of WCW used to laugh when I insisted that there was a considerable difference between resin brands, They both insisted Purolite was the same as Tulsion & Dowex- I wonder what reaction they'd get now if they said the same? Just look what resin WCW sell (that they didn't used to). I've developed a technique which you can wfp ANY window & get top results including all first cleans & old wooden windows regardless of how oxidized they are.

They question is not about when you should ideally change resin but more about what is fact in real world term! I don't need to read up on the properties of pure water, I've done it- & before you even thought about it.

The weather will make zero difference to whether your water spots or not- only to how easy it is to see it if it is there! Water quality will virtually NEVER be the issue with poor results with a TDS of 40 & below regardless of weather or if it's a first clean or not. A first clean is a first clean & exactly the same will happen whether you use 000 or 030ppm water!

Don't get paranoid over a few ppm, most of what you read on here about it is nonsense in real terms & usually not even first hand information, just someone re-writing what they've read before.

no disrespect

after all dont forget you are only a window licker

[♠Winp®oClean♠]

i dont understand some of you.i think its important to keep your tds as low as possible.pure water is what we use to clean windows!!why run the risk of spotting?

pure water is mildly solvent and "cuts" through the dirt and soaks up the crap quicker.read up likes been said.its true.

i personally dont let it go past 005 then i put a second FRESH DI vessel in front of the first one until the first one gets to my tap tds level.i make the most of my resin then.

No disrespect Daz but while you were in your wfp nappies I was testing resins, testing windows with varying TDS's, creating & bringing to you all the twin DI system. Yep. Dave Morris & the owner of WCW used to laugh when I insisted that there was a considerable difference between resin brands, They both insisted Purolite was the same as Tulsion & Dowex- I wonder what reaction they'd get now if they said the same? Just look what resin WCW sell (that they didn't used to). I've developed a technique which you can wfp ANY window & get top results including all first cleans & old wooden windows regardless of how oxidized they are.

They question is not about when you should ideally change resin but more about what is fact in real world term! I don't need to read up on the properties of pure water, I've done it- & before you even thought about it.

The weather will make zero difference to whether your water spots or not- only to how easy it is to see it if it is there! Water quality will virtually NEVER be the issue with poor results with a TDS of 40 & below regardless of weather or if it's a first clean or not. A first clean is a first clean & exactly the same will happen whether you use 000 or 030ppm water!

Don't get paranoid over a few ppm, most of what you read on here about it is nonsense in real terms & usually not even first hand information, just someone re-writing what they've read before.

mmm  i definatley on some properties get problems
if i use water above 10ppm normally around 25ppm per million it becomes noticible
this is on regular cleans

no disrespect meant mate just because you have done testing and come to some
conclusions dont be so arrogant to believe only you know best and nobody else
could possibly bring anything new or more well imformed imformation to the table

remember we arent talking about new string theories within quantum physics
its only window cleaning nothing to get carried away with yourself about.

after all dont forget you are only a window licker

 

Quite right too!