[Linds Russell]

Happy new year everyone

I notice that many carpet cleaners use Ultrapac Renovate as a pre spray with great results. When should it be used and which fibres should I avoid with it?

I am going to a white 80 / 20 with heavy black sock dye tomorrow - would it be suitable on this?

Many thanks

[markpowell]

Dilute it at whatever rate is required.
I have been using it as my main prespray for couple of years now on just about everything without any problems at all.
Mark

[The Carpet Cleaning Pro]

If in doubt using any cleaning chemicals, always do a test in an unseen area. When using high PH on wool, nylon and other natural fibres, always rinse out with an acidic rinse or water.

[slioch]

Hi Hydro Clean,

More words of caution from me.  I know from reading Mark's posts that he not only likes Ultrapac Renovate, he is an expert in how and when to use it, when to mix it hot, using agitation and dwell time etc.  With his tips I have even used it on upholstery to great effect.

Remember that this is a high alkaline RESTORATION product - I use it on fire cleans to remove acidic smoke damage.  Until you are confident that you have achieved Mark's proficiency and experience, proceed with caution, experimenting with soot falls (I have one later this week), filtration soiling etc. 

One comment about your specific problem - are you sure it is dye transfer rather than fibre transfer from the socks - if it is the latter, you need a different solution.

[JandS]

Mark

Doesn't it work out quite expensive using it
as a pre spray?
I use M Power as my main @ 1:100 or Powerburst
@ 1:66
M Power will make you 500 liters @ £39+VAT = 9.6p per L
Powerburst 264 litres @ £26+VAT = 11.74p per L
UP @ 1:20   100 litres @ £15+VAT = 18p per L

Find M Power with a bit of dwell time does the trick.
Only started using it 3 months ago but am impressed.

John

[Linds Russell]

Sound advice everyone and thanks 

I am only looking to use this as a problem solver and not as a regular prespray.

Slioch, this is definitely dye transfer and I remember on a previous post, someone mentioned that this may work.

John, your calculations are interesting and I am grateful for your analysis. I have never used M Power and it sounds like an economical product.

Mark, I bought it with a view to using it on mingers and smoke damage and any further advice you can give would be appreciated from a veteran's perspective.

[Jamie Pearson]

I would use it on nylon and polyprop with yellow discolouration
Adding a little energiser/oxibrite when required.
It's good when coal fires are present due to the fact it's designed to remove soot particles. Works well on draughts marks too.
Can create a bit of foam if you over apply it.
I have removed sock dye with RedRx on wool.
Vacuum it to death before hand. If it was new socks there will be loads of tiny bits of lint stuck in the fibres.

[Linds Russell]

Cheers Jamie.

The carpet has to be seen to be believed! There are two teenagers and the dad who always wear black socks with no slippers and the carpet is seriously messed up with dye transfer caused by sweaty feet.

[Jim_77]

I've used ultrapac on loads of carpets, I think the "danger" is hyped up a bit but also still back up what's said above that you need to respect the product.

Acid rinse, hmmm ok but really a good flushing through is most important - best to remove it rather than neutralise the residue   Go slower than usual with the wet strokes on the wand and then extra drying strokes.

I would use the ultrapac at about 1:60 with some oxidiser in it, put it down hot and brush it in a bit and leave a decent dwell like 15 mins.  Then a heavy duty microsplitter on top (mixed very strong because you already have the moisture there), and agitate the hell out of it.  If you have an alcohol-based spotter a few puffs of that into the mix might also help.

Your agitation is probably going to be the deal-clincher, a brush head on a rotary or a decent CRB machine will be best.  Sebo duo at a pinch but won't strip out sock fibres very well if that's the problem (in which case the chemistry is irrelevant!!)

Good luck

[ianharper]

guys

the reason that this product works so well on man made is that is will absorbs positive charge making emulsification easier being a "Nonionic Based surfactant". any product that is designed for soot or fire dame will do the job.

Respect
Ian Harper

[Linds Russell]

Did the job and removed around 90% of the dye, so it was a good effort and a good job I had managed the customer's expectations regarding the finished article.

He was still happy and paid in full with no quibbles.

Thanks again for the advice 

[Jamie Pearson]

What method did you use in the end?

[Linds Russell]

Very thorough vacuum going north to south and east to west, presprayed with Ultrapac Renovate, strong agitation and extracted with FF rinse. Used slow wet strokes as recommended by Jim and put extra pressure on the wand and stair tool when extracting.

Pleasantly surprised.

[Griffus]

I tend to favour Prochem stuff and have found UP is one of the best for real mingers along with Powerburst for the greasier ones.

[Linds Russell]

I have to say that we generally use more Chemspec than Prochem and have a wide selection of both.

Two very good manufacturers.