Clean It Up
UK Window Cleaning Forum => Window Cleaning Forum => Topic started by: Ste M on December 17, 2009, 08:06:11 am
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Hello i have bought a year old 650 ltr pure freedom WFP system off someone on here, now my predicament is should i get rid of the RO part and put another DI in instead.
I started filling my system yesterday and it still aint full after 7 hours, what i was wondering though is am i wasting my time with the RO side of it as my tap water has a tds level of around 060 - 070. I was thinking would it make more sense to just get another DI filter and then by pass the RO and then because i have 2 DI's it wont be as hard on the resin as just using one.
Also if this is plausable could i also fit the shut off valve control to the new DI filter so that the water automatically switches off when its full?
Regards Ste
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with that tds at the tap you could just use two di vessles. the resin would last a resonable amount of time and wont have the problem of long fill times. if you choose the di route i`d fill the tank straight from the tap and pump the water through the di`s when your using the system.
It will always be cheaper on resin to use an ro but its not always convenient to wait untill its full. in time invest in a bigger ro.
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with that tds at the tap you could just use two di vessles. the resin would last a resonable amount of time and wont have the problem of long fill times. if you choose the di route i`d fill the tank straight from the tap and pump the water through the di`s when your using the system.
It will always be cheaper on resin to use an ro but its not always convenient to wait untill its full. in time invest in a bigger ro.
Spot on, fill tank direct from tap & have DI's in van to pump through, tank-pump-di's-hose reel.
The slower the flow through your di's the longer your resin will last. ;)
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Di before your tank mate. Tap, di, tank, brush/hose. This will stop the pump pushing hard to get water through the vessels and will let the battery last longer. Let your water pressure do the hard work for you.
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Di before your tank mate. Tap, di, tank, brush/hose. This will stop the pump pushing hard to get water through the vessels and will let the battery last longer. Let your water pressure do the hard work for you.
Not true, mine pumps through 2 x 11ltr DI's & I run my pump on it's lowest setting- 1 0n a digi varistream.
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thanks lads, never thought of doing it the other way with the di after, is there any way i can keep the auto switch off do you know?
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Hi
what about getting a Booster pump.You can get up 8 bar pressure .
I ve got 300 lt pro 5
Fills up 90 min
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thanks lads, never thought of doing it the other way with the di after, is there any way i can keep the auto switch off do you know?
You can fit a shut off valve (small ball valve) to your tank. Mine has one on the hoselok inlet (filling) port. ;)
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Not true, mine pumps through 2 x 11ltr DI's & I run my pump on it's lowest setting- 1 0n a digi varistream
In the name of all thats holy. If you are di only there is no need to have the vessel after the pump, regardless of what setting it is man. The pump will simply work harder to push the water flow through (in your case 22 litres) of compacted resin. Use the nut and fill it slowly or quickly, whichever suits directly from the tap, powered by the water mains.
I used to have it like you until someone clever explained in simple terms that I was doing it Arse 4 Elbow.
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Not true, mine pumps through 2 x 11ltr DI's & I run my pump on it's lowest setting- 1 0n a digi varistream
In the name of all thats holy. If you are di only there is no need to have the vessel after the pump, regardless of what setting it is man. The pump will simply work harder to push the water flow through (in your case 22 litres) of compacted resin. Use the nut and fill it slowly or quickly, whichever suits directly from the tap, powered by the water mains.
I used to have it like you until someone clever explained in simple terms that I was doing it Arse 4 Elbow.
You seem to be confused or have been given bad advise, either way, you haven't a clue. ;) BTW, resin is not compacted when submersed in water ;)
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I give up. Some people. ::)
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if it is 60/70 if one your own di only, but you already have an ro, if slow change the prefilters if they are 10inch will cost you about £4 ish.
I know a few rave about di only, I would di only if my tds was 30 but its 470 or more some times.
Ro comes down to 13 sometimes 11, booster 7/9 each of these better than di only..
I never did under stand why people use di after pump and or tank
If you have pure water in tank there is no need to carry the extra weight.
IAN
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I never did under stand why people use di after pump and or tank
If you have pure water in tank there is no need to carry the extra weight.
Because resin lasts longer with a slower flow through it. (& I've proved it)
You can fill your tank super-fast direct from tap.
You can fill your tank from any tap.
Extra weight? what 2 DI vessels, you're having a laugh? ::)
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thanks lads, never thought of doing it the other way with the di after, is there any way i can keep the auto switch off do you know?
You can fit a shut off valve (small ball valve) to your tank. Mine has one on the hoselok inlet (filling) port. ;)
it has one fitted now but its to the RO system, can i just adapt it to the DI system? or just put another type of valve on there?
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Because resin lasts longer with a slower flow through it. (& I've proved it)
Mac, Im getting fed up so this is my last post on this one.
Resin will deionise the same amount of water whatever the flow rate through it is.
If you use a slow flow rate, then of course it will last longer because you are using less.
A stronger flow rate and of course it will exaust itself more quickly, but......the amounts by volume will be the same at the end of the resins life. Give or take a few fluid litres.
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I never did under stand why people use di after pump and or tank
If you have pure water in tank there is no need to carry the extra weight.
Because resin lasts longer with a slower flow through it. (& I've proved it)
You can fill your tank super-fast direct from tap.
You can fill your tank from any tap.
Extra weight? what 2 DI vessels, you're having a laugh? ::)
That my man is having a laugh you dont really fill your tank using customers taps do you :o ?
you like di only thats good if thats best for you fair enough, but it is not the cheapest way over time, ask Dave at st. ives he listen to someone on here that di only was the cheapest way and changed to ro and di, well I hope he did lol :-X
If your running pump at one on varistream, you must be like a snail when working, that flow would drive me nuts and also cost me quite a lot of money per day
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I never did under stand why people use di after pump and or tank
If you have pure water in tank there is no need to carry the extra weight.
Because resin lasts longer with a slower flow through it. (& I've proved it)
You can fill your tank super-fast direct from tap.
You can fill your tank from any tap.
Extra weight? what 2 DI vessels, you're having a laugh? ::)
That my man is having a laugh you dont really fill your tank using customers taps do you :o ?
you like di only thats good if thats best for you fair enough, but it is not the cheapest way over time, ask Dave at st. ives he listen to someone on here that di only was the cheapest way and changed to ro and di, well I hope he did lol :-X
If your running pump at one on varistream, you must be like a snail when working, that flow would drive me nuts and also cost me quite a lot of money per day
There are NO water meters in scotland & we have soft water. My customers happily offer me their water, that's the relationaship & good rappor I have with my custies, don't you? I have my system set up properly so 1 on the varistream is ample. Dave morris would not purify on-demand, that's why he used more resin + he uses a lot more water than most.
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Because resin lasts longer with a slower flow through it. (& I've proved it)
Mac, Im getting fed up so this is my last post on this one.
Resin will deionise the same amount of water whatever the flow rate through it is.
If you use a slow flow rate, then of course it will last longer because you are using less.
A stronger flow rate and of course it will exaust itself more quickly, but......the amounts by volume will be the same at the end of the resins life. Give or take a few fluid litres.
Well that's where you're wrong mate. How am I using less just 'cos the flow rate is slower? 400ltrs is 400ltrs is it not? My setting 1 is probably just the same amount (ltrs per minute) as yours.
I'm using exactly the same BUT I'm deionising it slower! As the resin gets more spent the slower flow can cope with it for much longer, it will hold a lower tds for much longer & this is why a twin DI set-up is much more efficient this way. ;)
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my setup is exactly the same as macmacs ive leave each morning with about 20litres of water in my tank i fell anywhere no watermetres here coming near the end of the day i drain my tank no matter how well i have it secure i feel safer when its empty
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my setup is exactly the same as macmacs ive leave each morning with about 20litres of water in my tank i fell anywhere no watermetres here coming near the end of the day i drain my tank no matter how well i have it secure i feel safer when its empty
;) ;)
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thanks lads, never thought of doing it the other way with the di after, is there any way i can keep the auto switch off do you know?
You can fit a shut off valve (small ball valve) to your tank. Mine has one on the hoselok inlet (filling) port. ;)
it has one fitted now but its to the RO system, can i just adapt it to the DI system? or just put another type of valve on there?
Not sure what you mean mate but a small float valve in the tank is what I use on the back of a hoselok male connector.