Clean It Up
UK Window Cleaning Forum => Window Cleaning Forum => Topic started by: thompsonr on February 14, 2009, 08:12:58 pm
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I have bought a swivel adapter and vikan brush to clean between balcony railings.They dont seem to swivel !!I have to "knock" the brush round 180 degrees to get it through,then "knock" it back level to clean.
Has anyone got experience of this sort of work, as I have a lot of sort of work and am about to go back to cleaning them traditioanlly as it seems to be the best way.The railings are about 5" apart and on 2nd and 3rd floors so putting a brush thriugh on an angle from the side is not an option. ???
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Not exactly sure what your problem is. I have a swivel and I swivel it by twisting the pole when the brush is on the glass. If the brush is not in contact with anything, it won't swivel. I'd have thought you could change the brush angle to get it through the railings by touching the railing and then get the angle you want to work with by twisting once the brush is in contact with the glass. Does that make sense ???
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thanks for the reply.yes I have tried turning the pole to make thr brush swivel.Does not work.Knocking it is the only way and I find it awkward and time consuming
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Sounds like the actual "joint" is too tight. Can't help how to solve that without seeing it.
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I have 5 swivel adaptors. 2 are fairly stiff (at swivelling), 2 are relatively easy to swivel, 1 is too loose!
'macmac' puts vaseline in/on the ball-joint.
Mike
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Your cleaning a window and you know your going to swivel for the next one so you swivel it on the glass and it's all in position to poke through the railings for the next one.
A flatter angle of the brush head helps too.
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Hi
I have a block of apartments with those dreaded bars infront of french doors on the 1st and 2nd floor.
The only way I have been able to clean them is with a vikan 10" brush and an Unger Teleplus pole. (You need an Unger adaptor to screw into the brush). I cannot attach angle adaptors or swivels to the brush as there is only space for the brush as the bars are close to the door glass.
When I initially tried to use a swivel it also impaired the control I had of the brush head when lining it up to put through the bars.
Hope that helps
Spruce
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I think the new aquafactors brush swivels the way you need it to, only seen a pic though. Has anyone got a tucker system.
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I have some of these where the bars run Diagonal, they were a real pain until I realised that I could get the brush up through the bottom.
The conventional ones with up and down bars are a doddle with my Stanley paint pad swivel
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I have some of these where the bars run Diagonal, they were a real pain until I realised that I could get the brush up through the bottom.
The conventional ones with up and down bars are a doddle with my Stanley paint pad swivel
Hi Dia
Please can you put a picture up of your Stanley paint pad swivel and how you have made it work. Our problem is that the bars are very close to the doors and have difficulty in getting a brush up from the bottom.
Thanks
Bruce
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Here you go.
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an
And here's a simple hose tidy, made from a piece of stainless steel strip and just bent to the right shape,
And fixed to the pole with gaffer tape.
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Don't forget, if you want to adapt the paint pad, you have to undo the small screw in the handle and turn the handle 90 degrees. The new pads are slightly different, you have to cut off a small piece of the plastic inside to get it to fit once you have turned the handle, it's easy to see what you have to do once you pull the two pieces apart.
These swivels work really well, and I have been using the same one for over a year now.
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these were a real pain until I realised I could get my brush in at the bottom.
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After the initial wash, there is no need to worry about getting brush in behind railings if using hot wfp.
I turn the water flow up to excessive and just brush to top of railings and let water cascade down behind railings until the sheeting hits the bottom of the doors. Hot water does the work of removing bird pooh so need to try scrubbing through railings.
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Just thought of somewthing else - if you are using a Vikan then trim the lip back on the stock as close to the bristles as you can, you can probably reduce the depth of the brush by close to a couple of centemetres then. I also take a fair bit off the threaded part too. You could always buy a Gardiners Superlight brush - that's about as fat free as you can get. If you have no money then a Bentley brush is pretty slim too.
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I managed fine with the paint pad swivel and the above brush.
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Hi Dai
thanks for the photos
Spruce
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Hi Dai
thanks for the photos
Spruce
Your welcome mate, that's why I come on here, it's nice to help.
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I recognise that brush... LIDL! ;)
Well thanks for that too, I had forgotten where I bought it and it's a cracking good brush, crinkly monofilement, but more bristles than my old salmon brush had.