Clean It Up
UK Window Cleaning Forum => Window Cleaning Forum => Topic started by: Tosh on October 19, 2008, 04:33:08 pm
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Here's the photos first:
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I purchased a zenzor flex fishing pole about two-years-ago (as suggested by Matt's DIY WFP forum site at the time) but never did get around to turning it into a WFP.
So this afternoon I pulled my finger out , stuck the pole together with some gaffer tape, and hacksawed here and there; and the end result is great(ish).
I think it cost £20 from E-Bay, but I do need a lighter gooseneck and brush; I'm using a hefty aluminium gooseneck and an archaic Ionic brush head.
But even so, tomorrow I have to do a whole load of first floor windows on one building; about sixty of them, and I just know this pole will be easier to handle than my heavy Unger one.
So my questions are, what can I do to improve the pole, and where can I purchase a lightweight brush and gooseneck from?
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Best lightest brush - Gardiners. Plastic angle adapter and i think you can get an extension to fit it from Varitech maybe? I can't remember. I think Matt keeps two sections glued together at a time.
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Reduce the length of the adapter reach by cutting off just enough to allow the threaded cone to click home in the new re drilled holes. Less distance and leverage at the top of the pole will make it far more useable. You can make up a short reach and keep the one you have as a long reach. You can get Ungerplastic/alloy adjustables from Lakeland plastics about £7 in blue or from windowcleancentre or express cleaning. Personally I prefer a short 3ft top section for close up ground floor work so maybe dont join the top two together. It will take you a bity of time to get used to working modular but the lighter weight you will like even though the Zensor is a bit bouncy. I would also take a surform file to the brush and take an ounce or two off it. Most of the bigger stores stock an addis monofilament floor brush or at a pinch the flocked Bentley. Rip the threaded cone out of the handle and jamm it in the unger elbow with a self taper.
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You will also find that the unger no1 and 2 cone after a sand down will slide inside the last section of the zensor, 2ft apart so you can use the zensor on top of the unger pole to go a bit higher at a stretch.
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Oh its not a carbon pole but glassfibre ::)
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Two different techniques there, Jeff Unger Brimbles method or the vikan type thread on a piece of broomhandle method. They both work but if you are familiar with Unger stuff (i'm not) then Jeff will help you all the way. ;)
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my advice
start from the bottom ( the bast handle sections ) use the case they come in aswell )
super glue two together
then the next 2 sections, glue them together
so now you have 2 sections :
case section glues to the next section
3 and 4 glues together
use coloured insulation tape, a few wraps on the bit that goes into the next section and a few wraps around the bit it goes into ( this will mean its easy to I.D what goes where and it will stop the pole from going too far into the other bit )
then you will have a shorter section with the brush on it, do the same with tape ( but a different colour )
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Cheers for the advice, Guys,
But with reference to the 'short pole', I'll probably still stick to my Unger poles for much of my work (we'll see how this goes); and the unger short length of aluminium pole is great for ground floor work.
I do need a light brush and gooseneck though; cheers Jeff; I'll do some hunting round tomorrow.
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i bought a 16m to do this and after trials and error now the brush starts at the 4th section. its a lot stronger and better . do 4 stories with it and if i want to do more will just by more end sections as they are all the same. my pole is a shimano forcemaster. i bought the light brush off ebay and i can easily rinse off the glass with it aswell.
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You could always borrow Squeakys brush - doesn't look like he will need it tomorrow. :D
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How do you get on with the hose flapping about?
I cant get my head around not having the hose inside......convince me please.
Bob
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save the aggravation and look on the emporium site they do a short section with a screw thread , it fits perfectly on the rt and has a screw thread to take a plastic angle regards alan
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How do you get on with the hose flapping about?
I cant get my head around not having the hose inside......convince me please.
Bob
its great i think, and you dont need such a long hose as it can go at any angle
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Matt
When I use the slx, its so easy to extend. When you use the other type, surely it takes longer?
Bob
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The male end of the section should be filled with expanding foam so push a ball of kitchen roll about 4/6" in the male end so that it is loosely wedged in place.
Then fill with expanding foam so that it slightly pushes out the end.
When dry cut the extra foam sticking out it off with a saw. This will help the ends to avoid being chipped.
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I think its about time i made one of these pole's.
So what fishing pole would i need i don't really want to spend loads as im sure i will break it.
But i want a lightweight pole approx 24ft in length to get over conservatories and what brush.
I do have a spare sill brush which i like but maybe this is to heavy for a fishing pole.
And what do you use for a screw thread at top.
The screw thread from a broom?
And how do you fix the screw thread on?
Any advice would be welcome.
And another thing i have never used a pole with the hose on the outside does it not get caught on everthing.
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My thoughts too Paul.
Bob
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And another thing i have never used a pole with the hose on the outside does it not get caught on everthing.
I prefer it on the outside, and I have used an Ionics fibre glass pole with an inner pole hose, so I know the difference.
It does get caught on stuff, but only rarely; no problems honest.
It makes it easy to remove the brush head when you're in a tight area and you can clean windows just using the brush head; and I like the hose loose 'cos I can turn my water off and on by just nipping a handy peice of pole hose.
It doesn't flap about either; you just hold it with the pole; it's not difficult.
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I love the idea of using only the brushhead :) I come across this problem weekly.
So what about extending the pole, surely it aint as easy as a telscopic pole.
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So what about extending the pole, surely it aint as easy as a telscopic pole.
Modular poles and telescopic both have their pros and cons, but on balance I think you're right in this respect.
But then there's the cost of a telescopic carbon fibre pole; personally I'd love a Facelift (no not the cosmetic surgery), because I've had a go of it, and it's both modular and telescopic.
But to be honest, I don't think they're hard-wearing, and I can't afford to fork out several-hundred quid each year on a new pole.
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So what about extending the pole, surely it aint as easy as a telscopic pole.
i thought that aswell, thats why i had my RT Z-flex in the garage for a long time
i thought i would give it a whirl and was hooked, i still have my unger ali pole, but its never used and i hope it never will be
it really is easy, i have 3 pole sections, they are colour coded with tape and its just a case of putting 1 inside the other, how easy can that be
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Is this the pole i need to convert and if so what height once converted will this pole give me.
www.tackleboxwallasey.co.uk/html/zensorflex_take-apart_8m_pole.html (http://www.tackleboxwallasey.co.uk/html/zensorflex_take-apart_8m_pole.html)
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Is this the pole i need to convert and if so what height once converted will this pole give me.
w ww.t ackleboxwallasey.co.uk/html/zensorflex_take-apart_8m_pole.html (http://ht tp://www.tackleboxwallasey.co.uk/html/zensorflex_take-apart_8m_pole.html)
looks like, its 8 M at the start ( you lose the first 3 , i think sections )
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So it would probably end up about the same size as my harris
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So it would probably end up about the same size as my harris
as you can see by tosh's pic
that pole he has is a unger 3 X 2 M pole ( take into account the bit thats inside for the telescopic to work ) the RT is about the same size
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Thanks very much matt.
I also have an unger 3 x 2 so the pole would be about 18 feet then.
Can you buy two of these pole's and join sections together
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Thanks very much matt.
I also have an unger 3 x 2 so the pole would be about 18 feet then.
Can you buy two of these pole's and join sections together
you can use the base sections inside each other ( the first 2 ), yes thats what ive done for a slightly higher commercail job, the first 2 sections measure about 6 ft, so you would spend a extra 20 quid for 6 ft ( with all the others as spares )
you can buy the RT gangsta for 50 - 60 quid and that will get you much higher
as a note ( a cut and paste from the DIY forum )
i use a RT zensorflex everyday now
i needed a pole slightly longer than the unger 3 X 3M
so i brought a Reload ( gangsta ) ( well it was a reload with a few spare bits )
i combined the reload with TWO Zensorflex's ( mainly the base sections )
measured it at 42 ft
im well chuffed
price for new poles, 140 quid ( thats TWO reloads and TWO zensorflex ) though to be honest i looked at it and you could do it with THREE Zensorflex and ONE reload ( thus 95 quid ) infact im going to try and do it tomorrow ( i never did get around to trying, sorry )
really light and really stable aswell
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Thanks matt.
I only need 24ft for now so i will get two zensorflex poles.
But may buy one of the others also.
But will see how i get on with the zensorflex poles first.
Many thanks
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WOW! all this cutting/sanding/glueing/taping/bodging takes me back 3 years to when I was starting up wfp and spent a month reading every diy waterdpole thread ever posted!
(thanks matt)
as for the pole hose flapping about, just wrap it around your pole, about 1 twist per section
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Must be the credit crunch. ;D
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Must be the credit crunch. ;D
Or maybe it's just that I have other better things to spend my money on?
If I wanted to buy a brand-new-shiny van and an off-the-shelf system I could; cash; but I prefer to leave what we've got in the bank/mortgage; we've got one of those mortgages we can dip into - or overpay; and to be honest, I prefer to overpay than spend it.
Anyway, I've re-jigged my pole, total cost so far is £20 and I've a 20 foot light-weight pole; I'll have to spend about another £20 on a light-weight brush and an angle.
Cost in time about an-hour, but next time I do it, I reckon about half-an-hour. It's just my 'learning DIY pole', so I guess I'll spend more, but there's no way I'm going to spend £500 on a modular carbon-fibre pole that's no better (I suspect) than a £60 DIY job.
I read the forums and know guys who've had just the same problems with expensive off-the-shelf poles as those with cost-effective DIY poles.
Sometimes I think some window cleaners have more credit than sense.
Anyway, it looks like the weather's brightening up, so I should get I bottom out and do some work! ;D
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My thoughts too Tosh. I did go for an slx in the end though because i had a habit of treading on my fishing poles. ::) I had an S1 for best and a gangsta/reload for every day. The s1 only came out for the high stuff.
Your right about expensive modulars being no better really. It's when you get higher that you really appreciate the difference but for normal two storey work they are fine. The expensive modulars dont bend anyware near as much over a conservatory roof though. Good luck and if you don't break it they are brilliant for the money and so easy to work with.
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Hey,
I used my fishing pole for the first time today on an old folks complex; it has about 60 1st floor windows and it was always tiring doing one window after the other, after the other using three sections of the Unger aliminium pole.
I couldn't believe how easy it was with the fishing pole; it was a breeze; and once I get a lighter brush head and goosekneck, it should be even better.
For £21, the pole is a dream; I don't know how long it'll last; but who cares at £21!
Thanks Matt and Jeff B.
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Hey,
I used my fishing pole for the first time today on an old folks complex; it has about 60 1st floor windows and it was always tiring doing one window after the other, after the other using three sections of the Unger aliminium pole.
I couldn't believe how easy it was with the fishing pole; it was a breeze; and once I get a lighter brush head and goosekneck, it should be even better.
For £21, the pole is a dream; I don't know how long it'll last; but who cares at £21!
Thanks Matt and Jeff B.
:) i was exactly the same, im a biggish guy and can handle the unger ali all day long, i tried the RT and its so light
ref how long it lasts, mine is now just over 1 year old and still going strong, 20 quid for 1 years use of a lightweight pole, cannot be bad
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Matt,
It's not often you buy something cheap and find out it's actually a great buy!
Anyway, this morning while it was raining, I re-jigged the pole; following advice from both you and Jeff; as in I've discarded the top three sections of pole and put the Unger short length inside the pole; a thicker part; and joined the pole sections in the same way as you do.
I've also used gaffer tape to make 'stops' so the peices of the pole I want to separate can't compact together.
But:
Do you spray your male ends (pfnaar pfnaar) with PTFE spray?
Do you also strengthen the male ends up with that foam stuff that goes 'ard?
Cheers.
Tosh.
XXX
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But:
Do you spray your male ends (pfnaar pfnaar) with PTFE spray?
Do you also strengthen the male ends up with that foam stuff that goes 'ard?
Cheers.
Tosh.
XXX
it was about 9 months before i got some PTFE spray, only because every1 on here was on about it, i sprayed it on once and thats been it, its in the garage and not used, the tape stops stop the pole from going in too far, thus no need for it imho
i also brought some expanding foam ( it was really cheap in aldi's or lides ) its also in my garage, un-used
so thats a no and a no, but you could waste a few quid and buy the stuff to stick in your garage ;D ;D ;D
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I still don't know which one to buy.
If there's a few recommendations I'll order tonight.
Doubt I'll get around to shopping, so I'll cope for a couple of days until mail order arrives.
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You generally only need foam inside the much thinner composite gangsta or c/f fishing poles. But there is a better way than using foam - more later. Zensor is very robust. If its not long enough upgrade to the Gangsta or similar - now that you have a top section that will easily fit it or any other fishing type pole.
The Zensor has one slight advantage over the alu harris pole, its a lot warmer to use on freezing days.
Glad your enjoying using it 8)
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Rog, order both the Zensor and the Gangsta.. Use the gangasta as an everyday pole and get your sl sections repaired or replaced.
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Rog, order both the Zensor and the Gangsta.. Use the gangasta as an everyday pole and get your sl sections repaired or replaced.
I'm not made of money Jeff! :o
Don't forget I'm a bit down on money from having to skip a few too!
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Zensor is very robust.
Jeff,
Out of sheer habit, I found myself 'hitting' windows shut with it; on three-or-four occasions and the pole was fine; no problems.
And then I started to get more confident and cheeky with it and found I could put a fair amount of pressure on the pole to scrub bird poo.
I may buy another; I think Matt said that the bottom two sections would fit onto the Zensor giving me another 6 foot of height, which is enough to do the highest windows I currently do.
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The only thing about it that I don't like is that I work from an estate, and my old Ungers used to sit nicely on the roof rack, but with these poles I have to put them in the car; and the long section goes over the seats into the driving area.
Can you see what I mean about my Unger poles on top of my car's roof rack?
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Not sure about banging them shut but you can turn the pole upside down and slowly slide sliding window upper sashes shut.
If you get another you will be able to try fitting the unger alu tube outside the no3 section to compare before you need to cut the 4rth section. I found it too bendy.
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If you get another you will be able to try fitting the unger alu tube outside the no3 section to compare before you need to cut the 4rth section. I found it too bendy.
This is how I did it yesturday; I had the alluminium tube on the outside of the No 3 section, but it was too bendy, especially for my alluminium gooseneck and old Ionic brush.
So this morning I discarded the No 3 section and cut the 4th section down so I could fit the alluminium piece inside it; secured with some super-glue; as advised.
It's spot on!
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Not sure about banging them shut but you can turn the pole upside down and slowly slide sliding window upper sashes shut.
If you get another you will be able to try fitting the unger alu tube outside the no3 section to compare before you need to cut the 4rth section. I found it too bendy.
i found the bend just right, it somewhat gave the right pressure on the glass ( if you get what i mean )
then a very soon after i started to use it, the thing blew over ( i used to leave the unger against the wall fully extended ) it hit a plant pot and snapped the top few feet off, just the size where the pole is big enough for the unger to go inside the pole ( the way you do it jeff ) , as you said its a lot stiffer and also works well, ive since became used to the pole and it feels right
on a point of note, the pole is so light, you CANNOT leave it against the wall, you need to either put it on a fence or drop it 1 section ( takes seconds to do )
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well i cant get my head around this at all,... i must be a little dumb regarding DIY.
how do you quickly extend the pole? and drop it .
how do the sections stick together?
and i too, cant work with hose outside...
forgive me if the answers are in the above posts, but its cheap at 21 quid and i want one.... but i cant get my head around all that cutting and stuff...you guys are brill , by the way. ;)
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Do you have to have a section of unger pole also then to stick on the top.
If so i will need to buy another unger pole not sure now if its worth the expense
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...no just use a bit cut off the adjustable elbow see pic from the other thread
(http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc114/JeffBrimble/2008_0828CillBrush0077.jpg)
Cut the alu tube 2 1/4" from tip and then cut the RT tip, glue and fit the alu piece inside. Fit the elbow after drilling two new adapter holes- they have to be exactly at the correct angle or the tools will be lob sided :D
I started with a Leeda Blue diamond but its no longer made the F16 was the nearest I could get to it. The £250 package is unbeatable value.
I suggest everyone start with a Zensorflex as you will need the no4 section to make a top piece that will fit on most other poles. Then if the 29ft Gangsta is high enough use that but if you need to go higher then get the F16 or a Sl2 or Emporium which will all take extension sections.
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I'd imagine if I get either pole that one of the sections will slot into my top section of SL2, hence no cutting. :)
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Do you have to have a section of unger pole also then to stick on the top.
If so i will need to buy another unger pole not sure now if its worth the expense
b&q sell scetion ali tube
or as jeff said, buy the unger ali angle adaptor
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Thanks thats a good idea with the angle adapter.
Im in B&Q this week so will look for some ali tubing.
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Thanks thats a good idea with the angle adapter.
Im in B&Q this week so will look for some ali tubing.
also look in the isle that has TV arial stuff, they have rod near the TV arial,
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B&Q used to sell 45 degree tv masting with double elbows they have now restocked with a 35 degree double its called "SLx" the 35 degree is better and tighter bends, push fits on the end of the tapered glass fibre section. Cut one in half or use it just like one of the suppliers. £9
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Rummaging through my cupboards today i found an old 8mtr 0-series graphite glass shakespear pole perfect to convert to WFP.
Its only been used twice for fishing so still looks brand new, although its about 12 years old.
But its really light and rigid even though it graphite glass i after putting it up minus some sections from the top i reckon i will have about 18 - 20ft useable length.
I was going to convert it today but i can't find and plastic cranked joint for the brush head.
so will order one of those and next week i shall try it out.
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Right what glue is best to glue the ali tubing in the top i have superglue but don't think this will last.
I can't wait till next week im taking the angle of one of my other poles just to try out.
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i used superglue, it lasted for 11 months ( then came off, i wrapped a few turns of tape around it intill i got home )
you can drill a few small holes in the ali tube, it gives it a key
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thanks matt