Clean It Up
UK Floor Cleaning Forum => Carpet Cleaning Forum => Topic started by: R-CLEAN on June 24, 2008, 06:15:33 pm
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hi all, av just recently heard about micro splitters and i was just after your opinions on them. Do they do a better job all round ? Does it make the job easier? When are they best used? etc
just a little bit more info on them would be great
thanks
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Here goes--I do not intend to upset anyone, but-
I only use microsplitters, I only use cold water, I only use a top class portable.
I clean a lot of gruesome letting properties and very rarely have any difficulties with obtaining a satisfactory result.
The only thing is that you follow the directions and agitate well, and then some more. On really trashed carpet I use the white hard brushes, nothing ventured nothing gained.
Trevor
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pure clean made by prochem is a microsplitter and i use it most of the time now, much better than the other product. i have done some fearsome bad carpets with it and get great results everytime,
colin
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R-clean ,is that your real name ??? ;D
I use them 90% of the time ,as Trevor said agitation is the key .
When I first started using them I used a brush ,but found that m/s didn,t always give me the results I wanted but when I purchased a sebo duo it made a vast improvement .
Neil
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lol no sorry my names Ralph ;D
so what does the sebo duo actually do just agitate the carpet? i use a extracta excel so once i've done this i would just extract it using just hot water yep
cheers Ralph
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Micro splitters are very effective if used as directed. As others have said, agitation is the key. Powered agitation, IMO, is essential and the key to success.
Greasy soil can be tough going. I have used Prochem's Citra-Boost (available from our site sponsors) as an additive to a Woolsafe M/S on REALLY greasy polyprop carpet (Chinese students). Even after 28 years of dragging a wand, I was impressed with the results after a COLD rinse.
Unlike microsplitters, Citra Boost is not free rinsing, so I would advise a mild detergent or acidic agent in the rinse solution.
Safe and happy cleaning :)
Ken
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We have been using micro splitters since 2005, we use an Envirodry machine to agitate which is considerably better than a SEBO duo, in conjunction with a Hydramaster Truckmount, the results are hard to believe.
Regards
S
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Spencer, off subject but can you tell me (or mail me daveypower@hotmail.co.uk)
Do you use 1and1? If so do you have someone that fiddles with the code or is it a template?
Ta,
Dave
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Ralph,
Do yourself and your business a huge favour and only use micro-splitters when you absolutely have to. The rest of the time use a proper carpet cleaning product like Prochem Powerburst and rinse with Fibre and Fabric Rinse.
Power Burst works on contact with the carpet and requires NO agitation and removes a vast spectrum of soils with a minimum dwell time.
Sorry guy's, just my opinion.
Simon
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You do like to stir things up Mr G!
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Who, me? Perish the thought! ::)
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Simon do you ever use formula 90.
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Darren,
No. I've tried it as I try most products on the market but didn't rate it particularly highly.
Simon
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Simon
I would love to use Powerburst on manky wool carpets, but that's not on in my opinion for residential, or posh venue clients.
Do cruise ships have wool and you use Powerburst? I would have thought you could just use hot water with your machine.
Pureclean is a good alrounder, but you need other stuff as well.
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I have used Micro-Splitters extensively. The best one on the market is Prochem Pure Clean. Micro-splitters do work very well but in my opinion they have a lower limit to what they can do when put side by side with chemicals like Prochem PowerBurst or Prochem Traffic Clean. If you are cleaning carpets that are only lightly or medium soiled then they will give you a result that is satisfactory however, when you hit a heavily soiled job they cant stand up to the test. The down side to micro-splitters is the aggitation and with some the dwell time. This puts time on the job which in turn is money lost in time. Micro-splitters are very good on upholstery though, this is where i favour to use them.
Richie.
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Mike,
You have to balance the damage the soil in the carpet does to the carpet merely by being present in it, with the means you are obliged to adopt to remove it. The school of thought that frowns upon the use of alkaline cleaning agents on wool carpets falls a bit on it's arse when confronted with the operational requirement to remove some quite heavy and diverse range of soils from a carpet in double quick time.
One of the great advantages of a chemical like Powerburst is that it requires little or no dwell time and therefore we will pre-spray only a relatively small area that is cleaned and rinsed very thoroughly indeed only minutes later, returning the carpet to a neutral Ph or slightly less.
Any chemical MS, Alkaline or Acid is and invasion of the carpets natural status and the quicker it is applied and then removed the better which is one of the many reasons I don't like Micro-splitters as a pre-spray of choice.
Simon
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Richie,
You're quite right, mate, Pure Clean is excellent on upholstery.
Simon
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Fair enough Simon.
I was just wondering if anyone has fallen foul of this. ie manky pub carpet, and 6 months they get a call it's falling apart.
I seem to attract off white wool people and I just wish I could hit it with something so I only had to clean it once. :'(
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Simon I use power burst a lot, not got a problem using it on wool , but I aggitate with envirodry then extract with fibre and fabric rince , how long do you think is a safe length of time to leave a high ph chemical on a wool carpet without doing any damage , lets say doing a 30 ft throu lounge by the time you get to the far end of the room the detergent could of been in contact with the carpet for 30 mins or so
john
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Mike,
I think the don't use alkaline chemicals on wool carpets brigade are worried more about cuticle damage than any real fear of the carpet actually disintegrating as a consequence, but they'd like you to live in fear of just that in order to retain their dubious, in my opinion credibility.
Sometimes people damage carpet far more by avoiding addressing the soil conditions with the appropriate solution which may be an alkaline and then go for a neutral cleaning agent that is supposedly kinder to the carpet and have to scrub it with a rotary to get anything near the required result and cause untold damage to the carpet in-so-doing.
Simon
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Very intesting Simon.
Off to find a dirty pub. ;D
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John,
That's interesting because you used the word 'safe' which suggests that you think there is something inherently unsafe about it. What is it you think may happen if it remains on there for any period of time.
I wouldn't apply any chemical to any carpet if I thought for a split second that it would do any harm, just as a doctor wouldn't prescribe a drug he thought would do you harm.
The supposed damage done to carpets by either excessive heat, or alkaline chemicals is microscopic, literally and is way beyond what you or anyone else could ever begin to perceive as damage. And even if that damage was harmful to the carpet it is far less harmful than the damage done to it by all the grit, debris, oil, grease and god knows what else there is lurking in a carpet.
I've never seen or heard of a carpet that died an untimely death because of alkaline damage. The fact of the matter is that carpet begins to be damaged the moment the first person walks across it.
Simon
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Simon they would love you on Cleantalk.
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Darren,
No they didn't.
;D ;D ;D
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simon
what dilution rates do you use the fibre and fabric rinse cause on the lable it says 5=1 which means 5ltr to the 25ltr stock solution is this right
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I agree with simon, You'll do far more damage to a wool carpet with a sebo duo when you aggitate the carpet, just have a look at what tufts of carpet are left on the surface when you use them! :o
all the best
John
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Dave,
I've just been on their site and it says dilute 1 :100
I am currently using Hydramasters Clear Water Rinse which is Ph, smells of apples and is only 1 pint to a 20 litre chemical container AND does a great job.
Simon
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I think it depends on where you are in the market place. If you are regularly cleaning Mrs.Jones etc. manky carpets then you may have to use more powerful solutions, if you are doing Mrs.Eliz.Regina's Sultana walked on by Phil and the corgis once a week then i would use MS, in the main the more expensive the textile the less you want to run the chance of replacing it!
Shaun
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Shaun,
Replacing it, by having done what to it?
There seems to be this myth that if you apply an alkaline chemical to a carpet it will suffer terminal damage that no one has ever witnessed first hand.
If you take the correct steps after having used an alkaline chemical NOTHING will happen to the carpet!
Simon
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For my first 5 years in this business way before all these micro splitters and internet forums etc I used to use 2 main chemicals .
Prochem trafficlean as pre spray and carpet clean xl as a rinse both unfortunately high ph chemicals.
All I can say is that in all that time I never had anybody accuse me of damaging a carpet or suite o yes most the time used same chems on suites, I saw the same repeat custys at least once a year never saw any visible form of damage .
All that did happen is I built up alarge list of regular customers and recomendations.
Ignorance is bliss ;D ;D
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High Alkaline cleaners have been known to take colour from high quality carpets, when I worked for a cleaning company one of the senior techs applied a high ph product to a Royal Kashan and it did lighten even after an acid rinse and it had to be retufted (a full yard of it)
Shaun
I once cleaned a carpet for a posh old lady and the colours started to migrate after applying a prespray of ph9.
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Shaun,
You should have dye test it first, naughty boy.
Simon
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Hi Guys
If I ever get enough money and time I would like to do a proper technical experiment on pH versus cleaning/damage.
I think most CC's would say that the so called knowledge does not fit the day to day evidnece which they see.
As I see it all these organisations/ companies have their own agendas which cloud any real robust scientific experiment.
Cheers
Doug
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I'd of told her to take it back, it's a wrongen.
Now this is where I'm admitting my limited knowledge/experience.
I am more worried about some sort of browning on cream/off white wools. Is this not really a problem if acid rinsed and fast dried?
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Enzyme pre sprays can send wool yellow and need 'reducing out' even if you use an Acid rinse.
I think it's a bit of common sense but for a person who states 'limited experience' then using the more high ph's isn't really a good starting point, Simon, Doug, myself have been doing it for years and we may well have our little mishaps but we know how to correct them, should start from the bottom up.
Shaun
PS Simon multi coloured and I mean multi coloured I'd have been there for a week testing, I now go for ph7 when I clean suspected ones but yes you are correct.
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I use pre-spray gold and fibre fabric rinse on domestic wool carpets and powerburst pre-spray and fabric fibre rinse on pubs, restaurants. I agree with simon use whatever you need chemical wise to get a good result, heavy agitation will do more damage if using microsplitters on trashed carpets. I have tried M Power and do not rate it at all, i do use Pureclean and get great results on synthetics and upholstery, i do not rate it on wool though.
Mark
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When I went on the Ashby's course they said spray the acid rinse on and rake in.
Then I got on here and everyone was going on about acid rinse. I thought that makes far more sense and stopped spraying.
Then one day I happened to notice the prespray they sold me for carpets was 12.5ph!
I stopped using it immediatley. However I still clean the same wool carpets I used it on and they are fine.
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I agree with simon, we use power burst on most carpets including wool and rinse with fibre and fabric rinse, (occasionally use prespray gold.)
I've yet to see a damaged wool carpet from using this in 13 years, (was previously high force !) and since we're there to clean dirty carpets you have to use what does the job best and quickest!
microsplitters are good on clean carpets ;D
Was does make me smile when people say they are good but you have to do a lot of aggitation ! - why on earth would you swap a prespray that dissolves on contact and then rinsed straight out with the machine (hot water ;) ) with one that you have to do a load of hard work with, and then say they prefer cold water also ::)
its beyond me, maybe from the manufacturers hype, i dont know.
each to there own, but i did a lounge carpet today, 16 x 12 (empty) in under 15 minutes, a quick prespray, set up the t/m and rinse and i'm off !
Not boasting, just more interested in speed than spending all day getting different machines out of the van :)
just my humble opinion ;D
regards
steve
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I use alsorts not just 1 product Power Burst is a product I used on Saturday, Pure clean today, Nemesis Monday, I find that I change the solution to the item but PB is normally kept for trashed or man made but most of the stuff I do is clean-ish, I clean the same people every year and most neutral ph cleaners will remove what I need including some tea and coffee stains which may be 'set' by high ph's.
Shaun
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Steve
I'm confused. How can you say that and have NCCA as your footer?
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Most of the training and advice in this industry is provided by the suppliers of the machinery and chemicals. This is why there is so much hype and unsubstantiated opinion about.
The suppliers of microsplitters would like you to believe that microsplitters (especially their brand) are the only chemical you can safely use.
The suppliers of detergents would like you to purchase the full range of their detergents - especially the more expensive ones for wool.
The suppliers of each type of machine want you to believe that theirs is the only method and machine to use.
I don't believe any of them. :o
The only way forward is to test them for yourself and compare and contrast the results independantly. If you do this you will end up using a wide variety of different methods, chemicals and machines and you can then call yourself a true professional carpet cleaner.
In the market I work in I have found microsplitters to be of little use. In most instances there is an alternative that will produce a better result, more efficiently and with less damage to the carpet.
That is only my opinion but that is good enough for me.
Nigel
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There's not many supporters for microsplitters at the moment, there's normally nothing but praise.
Maybe they're the type that go to bed early too.
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3 pages long already, and only posted yesterday.
As i have only just come across this subject this morning Here is my two pennys worth :)
Micro-splitters were my first choice when I first started c/c , safe, easy to use and could be used with cold water, However as my confidence grew I tried different chemicals and got to admit that i do have my favs for a number of jobs.
Now here is were I agree with Simon :) "for once " ;) the damadge caused by some of the chemicals we are not supposed to be using on wool , should give all of us c/c nightmares :o but i have used these and results are good and better than m/s on trashed carpets imo. I believe too much bullsh*t about" dont use on wool" frightens some c/c especialy sombody just starting. :-\
M/s are good , but better with hot water no matter what others may tell you , with respect Ken . and
All m/s are the same, no one is better than any other , Yet to see any body prove different ;)
somebody mention a duo damadging wool ;D, because wool tufts come up when aggitating , hate to think the damadge I am doing with a roto wash for aggitation ;) as for my fav chems, Enzall a brilliant answer, and , sorry simon ;) formula 90.
geoff
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Hi Guys
Prochem Pureclean is a good product and will clean the vast majority of carpets very well.
It's major advantage over the dissolved(in water) MS is that you can easily vary the concentration, you don't need 5 different dilutions masquerading as different products.
Be careful of enzyme based products , they can cause health and safety issues, proteases are know asthma sensitisers.
Cheers
Doug
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Not that I'm a member but I wonder what The Woolsafe Organisation would make of this thread?
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not a lot i would think Dr carpet,
they are an organisation to make money, they charge a fair amount , I Believe to allow woolsafe on a product, and lots are perfectly woolsafe , just dont have the logo.
Geoff
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Not that I'm a member but I wonder what The Woolsafe Organisation would make of this thread?
Woolsafe are just another money making organisation,3 years of membership never brought me any more work.
When working with wool carpets you use what you have to as the customer has rang you to do a specific job the carpet is usually trashed or badly stained and some of the woolsafe products just don't cut the mustard.Some people have used blitz rinsed with hydradri on wool carpets for 10 years or more and have never had a problem.
It was very clever marketing about m/s by a certain company frightening a lot of cleaners into taking the m/s route.
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;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
;D ;D ;D ;D
hmmm now who would that be ?
Geoff
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They all have their uses. I dont use m/s no were nearly as much these days. They are good for certain upholstery and some carpets and are great for customers to use as spotters.
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Steve
I'm confused. How can you say that and have NCCA as your footer?
Mike i say that because although trained by ncca, i believe that experience and real customer need are the best guides to go by once you've recieved some training.
The ncca provide the ideal scenario, but in reality you have to adapt it to produce the right results in different situations
If all you're looking for is be safe as possible then might as well just use water to clean with and not use any detergents at all ;D
All i can say is that i've not damaged any wool carpets in 13 years of cleaning so my sense tells me to carry on doing what i do!
I have tried m/s a few times but for me they really dont cut it, must admit i clean alot of really dirty carpets, so need something pretty heavy duty much of the time
regards
steve
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steve
see what you and others are saying. I gues it comes down to good judgement, which comes with experience.
Once you know the rules, you can start to break thoem. ;D
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Very good thread and some good points raised, Personally i have 3 hydroforce sprayers all mixed up, one has pure clean, once had powerburst and the other had the prochem wool prespray. i usally always rinse in pure water, or a acid rinse. This way i tend to use whatever the carpets needs.
If its an expensive wool rug or carpet i use pureclean if its not bad if its bad i use the procehm wool spray( i thin its prespray gold)
If i come a a trashed carpet then its powerburst. Have great results with this. Just one little queston tho, if im using say powerburst and having fibre and fabric rinse in the stock solution for my tm, will the acid not neutrilse the ph of powerburst. Dose everyone spray first with the chemical flow off?? or do u alway runb the acid rinse while spraying the powerburst??
Thanks
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Hi Luc,
I usually use pure r/o water but if I have to use an acid rinse I always switch off the chemical flow and purge the solution pipes until they are empty of any acid rinse before prespraying.
All the best
John
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in all the years susan and her farthers company as been going 30 + years we had never heard of ph levels until we found this site a year ago
and we have never damaged a carpet yet and some have been getting clean yearly for over 20 years !
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Susan
What do you use?
Carpet cleaning wise I mean.
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for years we used extractas lift off (pre spray) and extra chem both have no ph levles on , then we went off that and went on to prochems cris, green for carpet and suites
now we use power bust (per spay) , and hydro dri (chem) on everything apart from suites and there not a acid rince in sight
thanks julian
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I use whatever chemical suits the job in hand and never had any problems with damage to carpets in 15 years . However this is an interesting document from a chem manufacturer which touches on some of the issues in this thread. For the chemicaly minded.
Fred
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to add further, i have 2 pals who are in this industry and neither of them uses an acidic rinse, ever, just a water rinse. one ONLY uses a high ph powdered enzyme as a pre-spray on carpets and upholstery because it is good value he says. i wouldn't feel safe to follow their lead BUT both of them swear that they have never had a problem even though a lot of their customers are many times repeat customers
colin
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Powerburst and HM clearwater acidic rinse a great combination Thanks Simon ;)
Use SPLITTERS on nearly all upholstery.
Prespray Gold great on delicate wools and rugs
Mark
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First started with multipro XL in tank changed to MS then on to blitz for a few years never had a problem with any now use pure-clean. Am very careful on the rugs that I do worth a few bob.
Bit surprised WS don’t recommend what type of vacuum cleaner are they all the same? ???
Luc
Three Hydroforce sprayers I’ve only got one but two containers. I turn my chemical flow off don’t see the point in wasting chemical.
Mark
What method do you use on delicate rugs?
Len
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Len on really delicate rugs use a woolsafe splitter brush in with soft brush by hand then extract
Fibresafe seems ok on most though.
Mark
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Mark
Didn’t know there was one out there? Who supplies the woolsafe splitter?
Len
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Hi All,
Read this thread with real interest
I agree that you have to use what you have to use to get the result the custy deserves.
i have been in this business for 21 yrs(the first 18 with a franchise...SM)
Since being on my own i have tried prochem, which gave good results, but now i use chemspec and getting the best results ever.
Wool carpets....One clean traffic clean, pre-spray followed by a rinse with One clean. i may then "mist" over with acid rinse if they are very light.
Polyprops/ manmade/etc....321 pre-spray followed by a rinse with Formula 90.
regards
Daryl
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Len sorry just what IMO is woolsafe not certified woolsafe.
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Fineline is Woolsafe approved
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I am so glad to see that the Microsplitter bubble has finally burst and many of those that came under the spell of the companies selling them have realised that there are far more effective chemicals out there that produce vastly better results in a fraction of the time.
Simon
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Just read most of the threads again Simon and I would have though there was a 50/50 ish split MS/detergents.
Obviously many like MS, many dont.
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Just read most of the threads again Simon and I would have though there was a 50/50 ish split MS/detergents.
Obviously many like MS, many dont.
What about all the people who have not replied?
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Take a few saucers or small plastic containers and pour in small amounts of various m/s products, leave overnight to evaporate and test the residue.
The results might surprise you particularly if you are an eco fan.
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Just read most of the threads again Simon and I would have though there was a 50/50 ish split MS/detergents.
Obviously many like MS, many dont.
What about all the people who have not replied?
Can only judge on the info one has. No good guessing what others may think.
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Used microsplitters since mid 90's after getting a One Step video,
ordered some from franklins i think it was, and was impressed.
Have used most breeds, and found one i am happy with ;)
Excellent on fabric, great on carpets.
Costs 1p/m2
Less to carry in van
Customers happy with results, less chance of resoiling.
Suits me-customer happy,why go back to detergents !!
Andrew.
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just got back from hols in oz........
imho
i think that m/s ,allerstop ,etc... have all been overated.....
i believe that the suppliers/companys every 5 years come up with a "new" and "better" chems + products + tools + machines
some people rush out to get their hands on them.......tells everyone how great they are ...what a better job they do....how you can save time blah blah blah...
i am happy that i dont get sucked in too.
how much faster/cleaner/eco-friendlier can you get.......
how many of you guys have equipment/tools etc.. that you no longer use or need? how many have sheds/garages full of things that you dont really want?
how much money do you have sitting there....
what happened to the new wands that everyone rushed out to get a few months ago?
what was wrong with the wands you had?
i am not saying that i dont buy new equipment or chems....but i will wait till they are beyond repair or i have finished using a product.....this means for me that i have minimum expenses but maximum profits.....and my money stays in my bank for longer. :)
i happy with the results i get and more importantly so are my customers... :)
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i have been back and forth with different chemicals and i did lose interest in a certain cornwall micro-splitter when the claims for it frankly got ridiculous, spray on the dirt dissapears and you don't even have to extract, yawn. but i have lately gone back to splitters with pure clean, i really find that it works, i did a real minger today, i thought that i should use something really strong but i had pc mixed up from yesterday and it did the biz. the real bonus for me is that i don't have to pay for an acidic rinse, pc rinses with just water. ok i wouldn't use it on say a pub or restaurant but for 99% of other work, it is great
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Colin
Do you use PC through a hydroforce and if so...how many scoops per litre? assuming 8 to 1 ratio, as the instructions say 8 scoops per litre!! seems a lot.
Alan
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Just read most of the threads again Simon and I would have though there was a 50/50 ish split MS/detergents.
Obviously many like MS, many dont.
There's your answer Joe
www.cleanitup.co.uk/smf/index.php?topic=57542.0
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Chris
Some were on a roll or primed it, :D thank god it was not a new religion but some are still believer
Point taken garages but that was the cleaning side all paid for by the customer by the way the hand tool I sold you never been used thanks for the profit £5 put that to the bees knees, which I will never sell
Colin
Why not a pub ???
Alan
Having second thoughts on Hydroforce sprayer only reverted back in the last month or so over applying a tm thing
Steve
Stop picking on Sandy Shaw ;)
Len
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This is very interesting topic and strangely enough I haven't seen any of the I sprayed M/S on the carpet went away for 10 minutes and when I came back the marks were gone brigade, along with the only use cold water and M/S lot
I fell for the Magic Cornish Water and how the just carry one bottle of magic solution 8 with a couple of whalley pads and that's all you'll ever need trick.
Weren't we all taught that no one thing can deal with everything?
So I'm still carrying around about 25 various products to deal with just about every situation.
Pureclean is a step in the right direction and much better than Cornish Magic Water and I like it but again it doesn't do everything.
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len
how i wish i had sold you the vacuum motor now!!! ;)
wasnt poking at you len ...about garages....just general observation......
point was trying to make that all singing all dancing tools etc...are not all they cracked up to be! :)
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Colin I thought the whole idea of acid rinse was to stabilize the ph to neutral? PC is ph9 so ideally you need to neutralize with Acid rinse.
Okay I'm being picky but you can see my point.
Shaun
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I only use an acid rinse if there is a specific problem with the carpet I'm dealing with, as when you rinse with pure water you will remove whatever pre spray that was applied anyway. When I use my shower at home I've never noticed an acid rinse button on it? so I just make do with water ;D
All the best
John
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John I was being pedantic but the best thing about MS is that most of them have a lower ph than some of the pre spray that we use, but you have to use what you have to use sometimes.
Shaun
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Shaun quite rightly IMO says "you have to use what you have to use sometimes" and I think Doug Holloway has said something similar on another thread - and I do use mS and detergents ....
and thats why I have not voted in the poll being dine by Steve Gunn - there was not an optin to cover what I do - use what is necessary to to a satifactory job. Need to keep all options open IMO.
Re the comments about pre spraying with a certain Magic Cornish Water (why cant you just say what you mean).
Yes I use M-Power, and yes I have seen dirty marks start to disappear befor my eyes - and not only that but you know when you get the custy pearing over your shoulder, well they have seen it too.
It happens when aggitating (as directed).
and NO the carpet is not miraculously clean after agitation such you can pack up and go home. The dirt needs rinsing out, and you can do that with hot water if you want, and dare I say it (yes I dare because I wont hold back on saying what I have done or seen)) with cold water if you want - your preferred choice......... no pressure from ANYONE... not even the Magic Corninsh Water supplier.
and by the way - I have had similar "miracle" with Nemesis Super as well.
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Joe, how you getting on with the truck now? All up and going well I hope.
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Yes I use M-Power, and yes I have seen dirty marks start to disappear befor my eyes - and not only that but you know when you get the custy pearing over your shoulder, well they have seen it too.
It happens when aggitating (as directed).
Well if it's a water soluble stain and you then apply water and then aggitate, of course the stain will go. More than likely because the the one cm condensed stain has now been dispersed over 10 cm therefore becoming lighter in overall colour.
The image given by some was that you sprayed a stain with CMW, went away for 10 minutes for a crafty ciggie and a coffee, came back and the job was done for you. I think that's what winds people like me up.
I'm not saying it's useless, just not the 'one size fits all' product it was sold as.
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neil, i agree that whatever chemical you use often the stain does 'dissapear' when you pre-spray, it often blends into the general surrounding carpet but as said, you still have to rinse that dirt out, it's in there!
shaun, i think that a lot of this acidic rinsing applies to the days when portables were not very good at extracting the detergent from the carpet, nowadays with truck-mounts rinsing at 3-400 psi and portables the same, a lot less, if any, detergent is left in there to do any damage,
just my opinion, colin
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Colin
Lets face it, you can clean out alot of dirt marks from a carpet with a solution of Fairy Liquid.
What we are all searching for , is one product that works everytime in all situations.
Some of us have the heat (which definately helps), the high pressure flushing (which is essential) & the vacuum to suck all the resultant sludge out of the carpet. It's just that one solution that fits all that seems to be elusive
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Seems strange to me.
All this talk about M/S verses traditional chemicals and weather they damage your carpet, yet nobodys mentioned the damage risks to our health, most if not all M/S are labelled as non toxic, surely thats the main point, unless your going in wearing full head to toe protection with an air fed mask your breathing in and taking in through your skin whatever you choose to put down on the carpet, that's the selling point for ME.
Paul Kinder Clean
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Joe, how you getting on with the truck now? All up and going well I hope.
As Paul asked this question early Sat morning it looks like I am ignoring him. In fact we chatted on the phone on Sat morning.
However, for those others that may want to kow how I am getting on with the change to a truck mount - well, just fine.
It took me a while to get used to the Green glide (the hybrid type - holes and slots), makes moving the wand soooo easy, in fact, life would be unbearable without one. But as the wife said "how much for a bit of plastic?". "Excuse me" I said, "but its not plastic, it is Teflon". She still not impressed!
As for the machine itself. Yes took me a few jobs to get used to working it, but OK now.
The heat is "automatic", that is when the engine is running it produces heat which then heats the water via the heat exchanger. No on/off switch, no numpty to turn to reduce the heat EXCEPT for say a suite. I will turn the throttle down a bit. This gives less suction and also engine not working as hard so I assume a bit less heat too.
Pressure can be altered easy enough. Clean carpets mostly at 250psi but depending on how bad I may go to 300 or even to 400. Again, suites will be less, say 150 with a handtool.
I now have an inline sprayer, with its own solution container, which can go to high pressure, usually at 300psi so this gives some agitation at this pressure, lot more then a hand pump up.
I have no hose reels on my van, neither suction nor solution.
Inevitable one uses more hoses then when using a portable, and its the hose management I am having difficulty with - at the end of the job.
I am not too bad coiling up to 50' of suction (and it isnt on every job you use 50' piece of 2" hose, normally shorter plus 12' whip), but its the solution hose that cause me a problem. I find hand coiling, even doing the "twist" motion difficult. OK now whilst its "summer", but could be a pain in the winter when its blowing cold and wet (actually that sounds like summer).
Once set up, which is quicker then with a portable, the cleaning is generally easier (which is what I wanted), quicker (a bonus), cleaner (probably but the Scorpion was pretty good, but thats a bonus too).
but overall - doing OK.
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Hi Joe,
Glad it's going well with the t/m. Sounds like you need a pair of hose reels, It will make life a lot easier for you I'm sure,the hoses will take up much less room when on reels,and you'll be able to carry much more of it too, because it's only a matter of time before you are going to need more hose for a job that needs the t/m. If I was you I would use a 2 inch wand if you have one, without the whip(if it's a 1 1/2 inch), you'll get much better drying times then.
All the best
John
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Morning John.
I am sure you right about hose reels, and the wand is 1.5" and I know the system will "breathe" easier with 2" all the way.
Even a Y section with 2 x 2" to the dirty tank would help too.
and I would like some cool cuffs as well.
Just have prioritise and save my pennies a bit more.
All will come to those who wait!
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I'm sure a local fabricator could make the reels for you Joe? I think I have some plans here somewhere for the dimensions? I'll have a look later............every little helps.......where have I heard that before? ;D
All the best
John
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Joe
I made my own hose reel out of wood to hold 200 feet. It cost me about £30 and was made in a day. It is on a wooden stand which gives me space to store things uder the reel and pipe. I am sure anybody could knock one up as i did, but twelve years of working in the cable industry winding cables onto drums, one gets to see how they were made so to speak.
I was forced to do this as i did not know you could get custon reels made at the time, and could not have a sub mounted water tank due to van being too narrow so was forced to have side mounted tank instead.
Dave
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Hi Joe
Invest in some cool cuffs from Hydramaster for your vacuum hose ,you won't regret it.
Mark
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joe, not trying to teach you to suck eggs but to wind up either vac or solution hose they have to be 'full length, straight' as it were, if you try to wind them up while they are coiled around you don't stand a chance,
colin
ps did you get a chance to visit joe bristors site and find out about the hose gripper he sells for stairs? www.coolcuffs.net
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Joe, easiest way to coil solution hose is to do it first whilst its still warm and put it into coils about 2 foot across on the ground. Once wound, bungee up and hang in the van.
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Joe how does the TM compare to your Scorpion? I know its a different beast, but would be interested in your views.
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Joe how does the TM compare to your Scorpion? I know its a different beast, but would be interested in your views.
Hi Mark
Well the TM is heavier and I am still having trouble getting it in and out of the van - be better if it had wheels. ;D
Its quicker to set up (no filling up tank with water)
whilst the Scorpion is a lightweight compared to some prtables, it still a weight - but you got to bear in mind my age and the fact I am only little and fragile :D (you seen me)
its easier but that will be because of the glide which you could use with any machine.
its quicker to do a clean I reckon (increased extraction)
bit more fiddly cause you usually have firther to walk (back to van rather then front door) if you want to reduce/increase pressure or switch off. What it needs is a remote control for pressure and revs etc.
OK your not dropping dirty water down the customers loo, but when you get home you got to drain your tank down the main drain - so bit of a pain just when you want to go in and shower.
and of course you need to do a bit of maintenance and checking like you do with your car ie oils, belts, filters etc.
but I am still only 7 weeks into it.
I was and still am happy with the Scorpion - does a fine job.
I got the TM abit on impulse. I had a van that would take it, the TM was there for sale, and I got thinking - few years left in me yet, if I dont have a TM before I pack in I might regret it.
So I went for it, it all happened between a Monday night and the following Friday linchtime - that quick.
Yep, glad I got it
broadens my experiance of life, never stop learning (it just gets harder).
If I was younger what would I do.
Yes I think I would go for it, no problem.
If I said I couldnt afford a TM (and thats debated) then it would be the Scorpion.
but who knows whats around the corner, always something new coming out.