Clean It Up
UK Window Cleaning Forum => Window Cleaning Forum => Topic started by: jewelcleaning on April 09, 2008, 10:28:12 pm
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Sorry if this is really obvious to most, but just looking into WFP instead of Trad.
Just wondered if any of you could explain what all the vessels are on the IONICS pro 5 system.
I Know the white one is RO. Just wondered which ones are which otherwise?
Use this link for easy reference if its easier:
http://www.ionicsystems.com/english/index.html
Also, can you use standard resins to refill? Or Just Ionics?
Also do you think you could just bypass colour change resin?
Cheers.
Jay
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why ask this question when you post a link with easy answers ???????????????????we want to help not be tested :P
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why ask this question when you post a link with easy answers ???????????????????we want to help not be tested :P
Umm, because this site doesn't say: The Bottom filter is: The next one up is: Here's how to re route the RO to backwash: Etc.
I'm not trying to test anyone, sorry if it looks like that.
Does anyone out there have any genuine advice to help get it set up?
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Ionics would be able to tell you exactly what each vessel is nd does. As they use standard hozelock connectors then it is easy to bypass any part of the system. especially the over priced colour change resin. MAny guys are changeing to twin DI units so as to get maximum use from each unit.... Cost a little bit more to set up but can easily pay for itself if you are on a meter or use a lot of resin.
The Ionic systems are certainly well made and look the part but you pay a lot extra for that. Their are many other systems out there that will do the same job but but cost less..... Its a bit like compareing a coupe' to a saloon... Both will get you to work at the same speed through the rush hour traffic but one costs a lot more than the other because of its looks.
Regards
Mr H
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Top one is a water softner
Second down is a Carbon-sed
R.O
D.I
That picture is quite a few years old and since then they have changed the order of the top two filters around, I haven't a clue why but was told it didn't make a diference.
Pro
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Top one is a water softner
Second down is a Carbon-sed
R.O
D.I
That picture is quite a few years old and since then they have changed the order of the top two filters around, I haven't a clue why but was told it didn't make a diference.
Pro
Thanks for that. I had just about worked it out, but it's good to know def!!
I've skipped the carbon sediment filter.. do you think thats ok?
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There Carbon filters are supposed to be changed after 300,000 L I have never tested a new one but did once test the product coming out of one that was WELL within 300k and the T.D.S was no different. You should have a water meter on the system and a sticker on the filter this is how you work out when to change it.
I understand the water softner doesnt need to be replaced, it gets regenerated. I used to backwash mine with salt everyday but gave up when my R.O packed in even though it was maintained by the book flushing without fail for about 10-20 mins a day and within one year the membrane was wrecked. I never did get a straight foward answer why, even though I followed there manual by the letter.
In early 2006 from what I noticed there was some kind of change in the resin, I never bought a colour change filter again.
Pro
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I haven't got any sort of pre filters (10" sediment and carbon), and i'm getting some small black bits in the water, the tds is reading 000 - 001. Also looks like some resin is escaping through too.
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I think you do get "bits" coming out of the filters when they are new, I did with mine for a few days.
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Confused by your posts as it sounds like you are already using wfp system. Do you have an Ionics system, or just looking into getting one?
There are other suppliers who I believe would offer far better value for money and work just as well.
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propole is the man to ask for good advice and no faffing about.
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Yes I've bought an OTT (IONICs) pro5 System second hand, at a very reasonable price.
Trouble is its been sat around a while.
Maybe just a bit of gunking up that will clear.
I'm just about to start using WFP. Windex made me really think I need to get off the ladders. Not just Because the poles are 'cool' and 'gadgety' but because i have a wife young family.
Realised it's not about IF I ever fell of ladder, But WHEN!!!!! ::) :-X
So accepted delivery today of Shurflo backpack and 36' Hybrid Pole. Gonna use pro5 as static.
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Are you going to do all your work using the back pack?
Definitely use a standard resin in DI cylinder, can use colour change after to let you know when resin is on way out, as colour change is far more expensive.
I think one resin changes when tds is over 030 and other when over 000.
Seems daft to me as I don't think RO water should bo over 030 but I might have got my figures wrong.
Personally don't rate Ionics but could be wrong, much of their gear is definitely overpriced though.
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Are you going to do all your work using the back pack?
Definitely use a standard resin in DI cylinder, can use colour change after to let you know when resin is on way out, as colour change is far more expensive.
I think one resin changes when tds is over 030 and other when over 000.
Seems daft to me as I don't think RO water should bo over 030 but I might have got my figures wrong.
Personally don't rate Ionics but could be wrong, much of their gear is definitely overpriced though.
Yes gonna start just using back pack and barrels in van until i get a tank and varistream system set up.
Had a go on backpack before, will take a while to get used to weight, so gonna have a folding sack barrow handy for those long days.
Advantage of backpack is no hoses to mess about with with safety signs every where etc.
Wondering whether 36' is too long a pole for most jobs though, as is a weight!! even though hybrid carbon/glass fibre. But Its gonna be weird using differnt muscle for pole whatever.
The resin alone is dropping tds down to 003, and the RO alone is dropping it down to about 6. So with this sequence: Softener (recharged with salt) then to RO, then to resin, and out to tank/barrels at 000 ppm. Will buy 11L vessel with resin when ionics one packs up, won't bother buying ionics gear necessarily, unless i find some more fantastic bargains!!!
Jay
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Wondering whether 36' is too long a pole for most jobs though, as is a weight!! even though hybrid carbon/glass fibre. But Its gonna be weird using differnt muscle for pole whatever.
Whichever pole you use, you will get used to it and learn how to work with it to its best advantage. A good cheap pole for daily use which will reach most windows is the 17ft x-tel. It is 4 1/2 ft long closed up i think. Or near as.
A 6 foot pole length for downstairs is ok, but after using something shorter i wouldn't want to go back to using a 6 footer.
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Cheers mark, did you ever get your cards from that place in the end?
Jewelcleaning,
Them black bits are most probably the bits that come off the baffle but shouldn't go through the strainer and that should only happen for about a year after a new system goes into use. I doubt anything is coming through the filters.
So what you are saying is you are just using the R.O to purify your water and then straight into the tank?
How old is the system? There should be a date under the R.O or on a little metal plate on the steel bottom right of the system. How much water has passed through the meter?
Pro
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hiya pro, no i didn't. Haven't progressed to business cards yet. Although yours are the benchmark i will aim for when i start touting out of my comfort zone.
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Yea they aint bad mate, I have been meaning to order more for ages. I'm just going to get them to alter my web address this time as I had a new site built.
Gotta start touting in that zone sometime mate and its all about being noticed.
Pro
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Cheers mark, did you ever get your cards from that place in the end?
Jewelcleaning,
Them black bits are most probably the bits that come off the baffle but shouldn't go through the strainer and that should only happen for about a year after a new system goes into use. I doubt anything is coming through the filters.
So what you are saying is you are just using the R.O to purify your water and then straight into the tank?
How old is the system? There should be a date under the R.O or on a little metal plate on the steel bottom right of the system. How much water has passed through the meter?
Pro
Softener - RO - DI Resin - Tank
I've basically rerouted the whole thing.
Not sure about age, will check later, is OTT though, if that gives you an idea.
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Does it have a flow controller built on or just a switch for the pump and an R.O type vaulve you open to adjust the flow? Do you rig it up to a battery?
I personally wouldnt worry to much about not having a carbon, as I said, mine doesn't do much.
Pro
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Cheers mark, did you ever get your cards from that place in the end?
Jewelcleaning,
Them black bits are most probably the bits that come off the baffle but shouldn't go through the strainer and that should only happen for about a year after a new system goes into use. I doubt anything is coming through the filters.
So what you are saying is you are just using the R.O to purify your water and then straight into the tank?
How old is the system? There should be a date under the R.O or on a little metal plate on the steel bottom right of the system. How much water has passed through the meter?
Pro
Softener - RO - DI Resin - Tank
I've basically rerouted the whole thing.
Not sure about age, will check later, is OTT though, if that gives you an idea.
Just checked meter - its at 00137 m3. Not a huge amount eh?
I've got the waste restrictor from RO turned up so flow out is slower, waste water is at 800ppm :o
Will having it running like this make the RO not last as long? If I have the waste flow faster, It comes down to around 200, and the pure water out is slower.
By the way, mains water in is 140-160ppm, pressure around 45psi.
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"Does it have a flow controller built on or just a switch for the pump and an R.O type vaulve you open to adjust the flow? Do you rig it up to a battery?"
No flow controller, just a pump with switch, and a switch for the solenoid. I've bypassed this as i haven't got a battery sorted yet. Just mains water running at the mo. Filled 300l main tank, just filling some barrels.
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Never used back pack but would guess you would spend a lot of time refilling it. Long term use I would worry about wear and tear on back, particularly compression of spine. Probably others would disagree.
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Its an old system then 2004 or earlier. I presume you just connect the hose to the first filter. The only thing with not putting a battery on is that it wont shut of on auto.
It must of allways been bypassing the meter with a reading like that.
Its a good static mate and you wouldnt even want to know how much it would cost to fit in a van by Ionics not to mention the extra welding it would need being an earlier model. Get it anchored down and make sure its not going anywere!!
Also I would rather have a high waste ppm so you probably have it set right.
Pro
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Its an old system then 2004 or earlier. I presume you just connect the hose to the first filter. The only thing with not putting a battery on is that it wont shut of on auto.
It must of allways been bypassing the meter with a reading like that.
Its a good static mate and you wouldnt even want to know how much it would cost to fit in a van by Ionics not to mention the extra welding it would need being an earlier model. Get it anchored down and make sure its not going anywere!!
Also I would rather have a high waste ppm so you probably have it set right.
Pro
The guy i bought it off didn't like it cos it took too long to fill. He had it in his van, wrote the van off, and its been sat in his garden ever since. He's now just using DI resin!!! He didn't like the slow fill time with RO, so gets through a bag of resin a week. Madness, I say. Must be making a lot of money to afford overheads like that. Even then, I'd just leave the tank to fill overnight (with auto shut off of course!) and hey presto. Much better than just Resin.