Clean It Up
UK Window Cleaning Forum => Window Cleaning Forum => Topic started by: jikwan on October 30, 2007, 05:38:36 pm
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also output is slowed after DI
whats the point?
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when did you last calibrate the tds meter?
its something most people never do but should be done every month or two.
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But will it stay at 000ppm as the filters get used more?
tony
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JM123 please check your hotmail.co.uk account.
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jm i been using built in meter on RO it says 000
ok ill bypass the DI and use handmeter and check
i guess all RO manufacturers say the same thing:
replace after 6 mths
my 3 filters i been using 8 mths 1st filter looked really blocked
output noticably reduced but still 000
tried sthing........used garden hose..............stick it in one end
of exposed coconut filter..........jammed my hand on the other end
few mins..........tight sealed hosepipe end........blew out a load of
green stuff............output noticably increased
but nowhere near if i were using a brand new one
when this 1st filter really gets blocked i might try using remaining 2 filters
on their own without the 1st filter+post the results
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jm how do you calibrate a hand held tds meter.
cheers
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mac-
my filters-(rom new) never waivered from 000
last 2 weeks i noticed output reduction but still 000
pretty green though
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jikwan, you mentioned a hosepipe? did you use tap water cos if you did your meter should have fluctuated. I would have thought it very unlikely that you are getting zero from your ro alone. Sounds to me like the meter is not working at all?
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dave
sure....take out the 1st filter,jam a tapwater hosepipe and flush
reinsert filter to RO and filter water through RO system
gives 000
hell, if i had a highpressure airline.....could have blown a lot more out
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Umm if you ran tap water through before your meter, tds would have shot up straight away your meter could read as high as 500 if your tap water was bad. Makes me wonder if your meter is reading anything at all. Could you borrow a meter from someone?
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just letting u know jikwan i had an inline meter on my r/o which give a reading of 000,i trusted it for months and when i got a handheld meter the true reading was 004,im no expert but i wouldnt trust those inline readings
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i take the 1st filter right out of ro system
jam a pretty high pressured tapwater hose in one end
put the palm of my hand on the other end
and flush the filter from the inside
i dont take any meter readings untill i reinstall the filter
back into ro system
when all 3 filters are screwed on i take a reading
i found water output significantly greater than before
reading on inbuilt meter gives 000 just like before
about every 3 months i compare meter readings using
my handheld meter-theyre exactly the same
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jm how do you calibrate a hand held tds meter.
cheers
I got some calibrating fluid from RO-man (342ppm) and at the back of the meter you just turn the small screw till it reads the 342ppm of the fluid, bit hit and miss to be honest, closest I could get was either 336 or 348, nothing inbetween ::)
Also depends on setting at the correct temperature 25 deg.
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just letting u know jikwan i had an inline meter on my r/o which give a reading of 000,i trusted it for months and when i got a handheld meter the true reading was 004,im no expert but i wouldnt trust those inline readings
My inline meter used to read 106 x 10 (1060 tds). People couldn't believe how high my tds was. I've got a handheld one now and its around 450. I am assumming that the handheld one is right as it is a more realistic tds.
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jm i been using built in meter on RO it says 000
ok ill bypass the DI and use handmeter and check
i guess all RO manufacturers say the same thing:
replace after 6 mths
my 3 filters i been using 8 mths 1st filter looked really blocked
output noticably reduced but still 000
tried sthing........used garden hose..............stick it in one end
of exposed coconut filter..........jammed my hand on the other end
few mins..........tight sealed hosepipe end........blew out a load of
green stuff............output noticably increased
but nowhere near if i were using a brand new one
when this 1st filter really gets blocked i might try using remaining 2 filters
on their own without the 1st filter+post the results
Pre filters should be changed at least 6 monthly if they are 20". 3 monthly if of the 10" variety. Leave it too long and your membranes will be wrecked - an unnecessary expense that can be avoided.
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shiner, mines a 300 roman the instructions that come with it
say replace after 6 mths its a 10in
very little is said about membrains
is your view an educated guess or what?
maybe you tried my trick.....or similar, and got membrane
damage as a result
ichecked my inbuilt meter and handheld.....exactly the same
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shiner, mines a 300 roman the instructions that come with it
say replace after 6 mths its a 10in
very little is said about membrains
is your view an educated guess or what?
maybe you tried my trick.....or similar, and got membrane
damage as a result
ichecked my inbuilt meter and handheld.....exactly the same
I used to have a 300 gdp like the ro-man one. I wasn't aware about changing the pre filters and my membranes were wrecked after about 9 months. The pre filters were 20".
I know now that the 20" ones are meant to be changed 6 monthly. The info about changing 10" filters quarterly, I read on here some time back (it must be true as I read it on here :) ). The 10" info was not queried by anyone so I took it as true.
If you have product instructions to change them 6 monthly then it appears that what I read may have been incorrect. Either way, 8 months is too long.
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Either way, 8 months is too long.
Maybe it depends on the tds of your tap water.
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Change 10" prefilters every 3 months max, if your water starts high TDS, otherwise RO membrane is trying to filter what prefilters should have cleaned out and will break down the membrane quicker.
Hope that makes sense.
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i put mine through di even when ro meter says 000 you never no if a filter or filters will last the night . di resin gives a bit more security that your water will come out at 000
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i reckon jef's got a point
everything depends on tapwater tds
im north of derby tds is 152 which is pretty low
a few weeks back there was a discussion on this forum
about wfp in spain...........almost non existent because its too hot
and tds is 1200+ (if i remember right)
with 1200 tds youre going to have to change prefilters every week
scotland...(i believe) generally below 40
if thats the case no need to change filters so often
because theres hardly any minerals accumulated
another possible valid reason for changing filter is the material
used increasingly deteriorates (dont they use coconut husk or something?
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If you have low tds like 50-70 you can remove the first pre filter an run with just 2 as long as you dont want to drink it.
Whats yout tds ?
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hi jeff,
tds is 152
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I just changed my resin in di for4 the first time used it for a couple of weeks.
at what point tds do you guys change your resin?
I am probably being ott mine was 5ppm going into main tank afetr di
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I just changed my resin in di for4 the first time used it for a couple of weeks.
at what point tds do you guys change your resin?
I am probably being ott mine was 5ppm going into main tank afetr di
Not sure if I've got this right but after juggling my kit around, I ended up with an extra DI cannister. So I ended up with two DI cannisters after the RO. This gives me a big margin for error. What I now do is test the water after the RO once in a while and also test the water after the first DI. When the water from the first DI has climbed to the same TDS level as after the RO. I reckon it's time to change the resin in the first cannister as it's no longer doing any purifying. Occasionally, I will test the water going into the tank as well (after 2nd DI) as once in a blue moon, the 2nd DI will need changing too. Just to cap it all, I also have a DI next to the van mount as well. This is just for those rare occasions that I might need to top up with tap water to finish work a long way from home.
This may seem extravagant but it wasn't really planned that way. However, I reckon the kit is more worthwhile to me than any money I would get for it second hand.
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I just changed my resin in di for4 the first time used it for a couple of weeks.
at what point tds do you guys change your resin?
I am probably being ott mine was 5ppm going into main tank afetr di
Not sure if I've got this right but after juggling my kit around, I ended up with an extra DI cannister. So I ended up with two DI cannisters after the RO. This gives me a big margin for error. What I now do is test the water after the RO once in a while and also test the water after the first DI. When the water from the first DI has climbed to the same TDS level as after the RO. I reckon it's time to change the resin in the first cannister as it's no longer doing any purifying. Occasionally, I will test the water going into the tank as well (after 2nd DI) as once in a blue moon, the 2nd DI will need changing too. Just to cap it all, I also have a DI next to the van mount as well. This is just for those rare occasions that I might need to top up with tap water to finish work a long way from home.
This may seem extravagant but it wasn't really planned that way. However, I reckon the kit is more worthwhile to me than any money I would get for it second hand.
I think thats a very good thing, I might get another di, as better safe than spotty ;D
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I just changed my resin in di for4 the first time used it for a couple of weeks.
I take it you are di only, after RO my resin lasts usually about 2.5 to 3 months thats with an after RO generally about 15 ppm and pre filters about 370 ppm.
As for the inline meters dont use them they are completely unstable and give very misleading readings..... handheld is the way forward and at less than £15.00 its not even worth thinking about! after we have spent all this money on producing the water its worth knowing the systems are at least working properly!!