Clean It Up
UK Window Cleaning Forum => Window Cleaning Forum => Topic started by: Ian_Giles on March 08, 2007, 03:20:39 pm
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Why is it that if you forget to change your resin quickly enough that the tds output of your water climbs incredibly high??
Water out of my R/O is 0.004 ppm, due to my inattention, water after DI is 0.064 ppm :o :o :o
I'm wondering if the reason for this is because the exhausted resin is 'letting go' of all the impurities it absorbed while it was busy polishing off that last bit of TDS...
Is that a good guess?
Or does anyone out there know the real reason (or just a different reason) exhausted resin behaves in this way??
Ian
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Ian
I am afraid i havnt got any answers but if your tds is 004 after ro why do you need resin ???
its not the impuritys in the water that would cause white spots at that reading it would be the crap off the frames.
Go on give it a try you know you want to :D
Marcus
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Why is it that if you forget to change your resin quickly enough that the tds output of your water climbs incredibly high??
Water out of my R/O is 0.004 ppm, due to my inattention, water after DI is 0.064 ppm Shocked Shocked Shocked
I'm wondering if the reason for this is because the exhausted resin is 'letting go' of all the impurities it absorbed while it was busy polishing off that last bit of TDS...
Is that a good guess?
Or does anyone out there know the real reason (or just a different reason) exhausted resin behaves in this way??
Ian
Ian if you think of your resin as your cill cloth, It works well enough until it absorbs all the water it can. When that point is reached mate, you have to wring it out. The problem is ,you can't wring out resin
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To be honest I've never had this problem myself.......
I always change my resin when it gets to 001ppm.
SHAME ON YOU MR GILES >:( >:(
:D
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Shucks :-[
I know, usually I change my resin the moment it it goes to 0.001 ppm...had one hell of a shock when I checked my readings! :o
No real harm done, though my 1000l IBC was over 3/4 full, the trs of the water in there was only 0.003 ppm.
My resin chamber is clear, I usually know at a glance when it is getting close to resin change time, presuably my resin is a mixed base resin, as when it is close to the time it needs to be changed it has separated, lower half black, top half a sort of orange.
Marcus,
When I was still using a trolley mount, at one point, without realising it, I was using water with a reading of 0.020 ppm :o .....and didn't have a problem!
But the moment it begins to rise I like to have the peace of mind that 0.000 ppm gives you.
Maybe Andrewswaters will clock this thread, now there's a guy who knows his onions ;)....er....or pure water anyway ;D
Good analogy Dai, but I'd love to know the actual reason this occurs.
I could equally understand it if the water stayed at the reading after it came out of my R/O.
After all, the DI resin has done its job, why should it therefore begin to give up what it has taken?
I'm just anal about these things, knowing that something or other happens is one thing, but understanding the process behind it is another :)
Ian
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Yes Ian, that is exactly what's happening with your resin.
Even with an output of 004 ppm it is always advisable to bring it down to 000 as this will give you a much easier clean.
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Ian,
I posted some info about black resin some back on here, if the resin was sticky then it wll be due to bacterial growth which will make your TDS go up. This is from a good source as a few window cleaners up here had that problem.
Doug
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Wouldnt a TDS meter that sounded an alarm when the TDS reading reached a level set by the user..............so 1, 5, 10 or what ever level you were comfortable with be a great idea, I know I'd buy one
Alistair
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The reason for this is that the resin particles work like magnets. As soon as they are totally covered with impurities they cannot absorbe anymore, with the result that all further imurities just pass straight through and eventually ones stuck to the Resin will also be washed off. Casuing extremely high TDS values.
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The reason for this is that the resin particles work like magnets. As soon as they are totally covered with impurities they cannot absorbe anymore, with the result that all further imurities just pass straight through and eventually ones stuck to the Resin will also be washed off. Casuing extremely high TDS values.
can this resin be recycled/cleaned?
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Wouldnt a TDS meter that sounded an alarm when the TDS reading reached a level set by the user..............so 1, 5, 10 or what ever level you were comfortable with be a great idea, I know I'd buy one
Alistair
What a neat idea!
I'll buy one too ;D
Resin can be replenished, but it isn't something for the DIY fan, kinda specialised and uses strong acid...easier to buy it!
Another little thought regards resin...
Some R/O's can really reduce your tds a long way, sometimes as low as 0.001 ppm.
So with water that pure you hardly need to put it through a DI vessal...so say.
But with resin it de-ionises the water, changes the polarity of something or other (can't be arsed to look up which what way it does it! ;))
Does the de-ionisation process make the pure water we use to clean the windows more effective?
Regardless of how pure the water is when it comes out of the R/O?
But to go back to the high TDS reading I had; at one point ( a couple of years back) I never bothered changing the resin, my R/O was bringing the TDS down to 0.002 ppm and I just kept using it, didn't change the resin for months!
And the readings didn't go up in the holding tank at all.
So perhaps this time it was down to bacteria as Doug has said :-\
Ian,
I posted some info about black resin some back on here, if the resin was sticky then it wll be due to bacterial growth which will make your TDS go up. This is from a good source as a few window cleaners up here had that problem.
Doug
Ian
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Ian dont be such a fanny and go clean some windows , your loaded , just change that resin man ;D
Rich P @ F
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Ian, I don't use an RO unit. But if I did, and the TDS reading was 0, I would use it.
If there are no desolved solids left in the water, there are no solids to remove, so nothing to be left on the glass. The RO unit must be removing the ions or your reading wouldn't be 0. Dai