Clean It Up
UK Window Cleaning Forum => Window Cleaning Forum => Topic started by: AuRavelling79 on August 08, 2023, 05:43:21 pm
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So the old bus is ready to have the back redone and after removing the ply and rubber matting the original painted surface is sound but has some light surface rust on some high spots.
What do you recommend...
Firstly to prepare the surface and then a top coat.
I am currently thinking Protectakote.
Thoughts?
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Protektacote is perfect it’s served me very well you can also re apply it in spots that may rub off slightly,overall I thinks it’s the best option tbh.
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If you go the Protectakote route, get the UVR version instead of the standard, Its more hard wearing and faster drying and its not that much more expensive. Prep the van (i used the green scotch type pads) then applied 2 coats of Protectakote with a stipple roller, worked for me. Id make sure you get rid of all the rust though and wear clothes your happy to throw away after ;D
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Interesting comments here.
My first van I did with Protectakote black. It was brilliant. I did my current van with Grey about 4 years ago, and tbh, I am disappointed with its durability.
I do need to get another small tin and touch-up all the wear areas. I will then put some rubber matting down to stop it wearing through again.
If I knew the result 4 years ago, I would have looked for another product.
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2K Bedliner is reasonably indestructible, cost effective and easy to apply.
Just get a decent mask.
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Protectacoat is very soft and damages and wares very quickly have it done with line x or similar type of two pack product it’s indestructible
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Do I paint metal primer, rust-o-leum or hammerite on any surface rust (not loose) before using Protectakote?
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I'm not impressed with Protectorkote it soon wears away anywhere there is traffic on the van floor
X-Line - outstanding - did the boxer something like 7 years ago - had systems in/out - pressure washers - you name it - still look like new - a green investment.
You will have to weigh up what its worth to you as regards the length of time your keeping the van and if you want to re-sell at a decent price
Darran
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I’ve seen the inside of some vans on here and I don’t think Protektacote would be any good either lol 😂.
Nigel xx.
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We use raptor. It's excellent. You'd need a compressor though.
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I'm not impressed with Protectorkote it soon wears away anywhere there is traffic on the van floor
X-Line - outstanding - did the boxer something like 7 years ago - had systems in/out - pressure washers - you name it - still look like new - a green investment.
You will have to weigh up what its worth to you as regards the length of time your keeping the van and if you want to re-sell at a decent price
Darran
I echo your experience Darran with regards to protektakote.
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I'm not impressed with Protectorkote it soon wears away anywhere there is traffic on the van floor
X-Line - outstanding - did the boxer something like 7 years ago - had systems in/out - pressure washers - you name it - still look like new - a green investment.
You will have to weigh up what its worth to you as regards the length of time your keeping the van and if you want to re-sell at a decent price
Darran
I've googled. Do you mean Line X?
How much?
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FYI
This is what we use:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284879709677?
Some of our lads are rough. Never had it fail. As previously stated we use a compressor although it can be brushed on.
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FYI
This is what we use:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284879709677?
Some of our lads are rough. Never had it fail. As previously stated we use a compressor although it can be brushed on.
Thanks for that.
What do you use in preparation, assuming the bed is used and not brand new?
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FYI
This is what we use:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284879709677?
Some of our lads are rough. Never had it fail. As previously stated we use a compressor although it can be brushed on.
Thanks for that.
What do you use in preparation, assuming the bed is used and not brand new?
We've done both.
New - scouring pad
Used - it depends. Usually a dry sand is sufficient. If there are areas of rust sometimes a more robust method is required. An air powered wire brush or similar.
The box on ebay will do more than 2 LWB Fiat Doblos.
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2K Bedliner is reasonably indestructible, cost effective and easy to apply.
Just get a decent mask.
Any preparation tips?
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When I got my new van last year I had it lined out in plastic on the sides and phenolic plywood flooring and arches.
I think I paid £440. It's a big van though possibly twice as much a material as a doblo...
(http://www.cleanitup.co.uk/smf/1691576775_20220811_134238 (1).jpg)
There's not really any need to paint a floor ( although I've done many over the years from protektokote to raptor liner) as paint is waterproof.
I took it all out the other week to check underneath was ok and there was just a couple of spots the paint had worn through from rubbing on the ply so I touched these up with white paint and put the ply back in. Despite spilling a lot of water in their everyday the ply is still solid.
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Maybe waterproof but it f your dragging in and out equipment you’ll go through the paint - I have a rust hole in the floor of a 4 year old relay - will try that stuff soupy recommends when I repair it
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Maybe waterproof but it f your dragging in and out equipment you’ll go through the paint - I have a rust hole in the floor of a 4 year old relay - will try that stuff soupy recommends when I repair it
Just used it to spray the underside of the tub on a 1976 landy we're refurbing. Looks like new.
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I did a spraying course in april and have a full compressor setup etc i plan on spraying raptor in mine eventually but you can just brush it. You can use a stipple roller if you want that effect.
You`ll need to remove rust then use an etch primer or adhesion promoter to any bare metal. Use scotch pads to key the surface, you only need a light key you dont want to go to bare metal (or you`ll need a primer)
Being a 2k paint technically you should be using an air fed mask as it contains icocyanates which really arent good to be breathing. Long term exposure can cause asthma but even short term some people have a bad reaction to it....But as long as you ensure good ventilation and use a good mask you should be ok.
these are the filters i use https://thefacemaskstore.co.uk/moldex-9230-combined-filter-a2p3r-for-series-7000-9000-easylock/
its about as good as you can get without going air fed, general rule is if you can smell paint through your mask the mask aint good enough, i have a moldex full face mask i use with those filters as bad stuff can get in through your eyes and pores,......probably seems overkill for spraying 1 van but good masks are reusable so worth buying as can be used for all sorts of d.i.y such as sanding using different filters.
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I'm not impressed with Protectorkote it soon wears away anywhere there is traffic on the van floor
X-Line - outstanding - did the boxer something like 7 years ago - had systems in/out - pressure washers - you name it - still look like new - a green investment.
You will have to weigh up what its worth to you as regards the length of time your keeping the van and if you want to re-sell at a decent price
Darran
I've googled. Do you mean Line X?
How much?
Think you will find I suggested that a few posts back 😂😂
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Well in the end I unbolted the frame (8 bolts) re used four stainless threaded bar and bought four more to replace the four mild steel ones.
Wire brushed the frame and spray Hammerited it black. 4 coats used up two tins.
Bought the harder wearing Protectakote UVR kit and some Xylene thinners and chose dark brown as it was £34 cheaper.
Bought two black drip trays 600x1200 £32 the pair, which almost perfectly fit between the tank and the back doors and between the wheels arches.
One reel sits in a high sided wooden tray I had previously made so I can lift the reel out if necessary. This is screwed through one tray through the floor with four self cutting 10mm bolts/screws.
The other drip tray is loose but typically it has my safety cones, trad bucket and gear and a box of handy tools and spares in it.
On top the 650L tank ply cover out of the passenger side is another reel with a smaller drip tray, also my spare wheel and leisure battery. Pumps are now on the passenger side of the tank leaving room on the driver's side for my extreme 47 diagonally down the side of the tank.
Extreme 25 and 20 in drainpipes under the roof with a 2 metre pointer ladder between.
Small downstairs pole (old SLX top two sections cut to about 4ft) across the bulkhead.
Immersion at the back of the tank down low facing the back doors.
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Well in the end I unbolted the frame (8 bolts) re used four stainless threaded bar and bought four more to replace the four mild steel ones.
Wire brushed the frame and spray Hammerited it black. 4 coats used up two tins.
Bought the harder wearing Protectakote UVR kit and some Xylene thinners and chose dark brown as it was £34 cheaper.
Bought two black drip trays 600x1200 £32 the pair, which almost perfectly fit between the tank and the back doors and between the wheels arches.
One reel sits in a high sided wooden tray I had previously made so I can lift the reel out if necessary. This is screwed through one tray through the floor with four self cutting 10mm bolts/screws.
The other drip tray is loose but typically it has my safety cones, trad bucket and gear and a box of handy tools and spares in it.
On top the 650L tank ply cover out of the passenger side is another reel with a smaller drip tray, also my spare wheel and leisure battery. Pumps are now on the passenger side of the tank leaving room on the driver's side for my extreme 47 diagonally down the side of the tank.
Extreme 25 and 20 in drainpipes under the roof with a 2 metre pointer ladder between.
Small downstairs pole (old SLX top two sections cut to about 4ft) across the bulkhead.
Immersion at the back of the tank down low facing the back doors.
where did you get the drips trays so cheap ?
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eBay. Just generic ones. Not specifically for vans.