Clean It Up
UK Window Cleaning Forum => Window Cleaning Forum => Topic started by: JandS on September 26, 2022, 04:39:31 pm
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When they go do they just stop working?
On Friday mine turned itself off 3 times during the day but when I pressed the button it came back on again.
Today after 5 minutes it switched itself off and wouldn't come back on....fiddled with wiring to no avail so did rest of day with battery straight to pump.......new controller ordered.
On full flow it certainly makes a difference speed wise but certainly uses up the water.
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It's only about a year old as well.
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If it's a spring one they can repair it for a reasonable fee then you have a spare.
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V16
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Give Ian a call at v controllers 07507980159.
He helped me out with a problem.
I found them very helpful.
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It's only about a year old as well.
Definitely email Ian Shepard at Spring as he might be able to help as it's not very old.
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They are programmed to automatically switch off when the battery voltage drops to 10.4v under load.
Once the load on the battery is removed the battery voltage will recover very quickly giving the impression it is charged.
This points to a failing battery or one that needs charging.
Then again, a poor connection can also cause a voltage drop to the controller.
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Almost always a battery or connection problem. Be interesting to see what it was when you get this sorted.
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Almost always a battery or connection problem. Be interesting to see what it was when you get this sorted.
I agree. While there is always the possibility that the controller has developed a fault, by and large these controllers are bullet proof.
A pump will still run on a low battery voltage if the controller is bypassed. This could give the impression the original problem isn't battery related.
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V16
As the controller is a year old we can certainly take a look at it for you. The issue may be related to the pump drive stage but without seeing the controller its difficult to know for sure. Drop me an email ian.sheppard@springltd.co if you would like us to take a look at it
Cheers
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Emailed you Ian....the battery is only 3 months old and is showing full charge and operating normally with new controller.
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Bin the flow controllers; they're over-priced, annoying, and fragile things.
Get a couple of cheap Chinese motor controllers:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/334001873263
We've used them for years now and I always keep a spare in the glove compartment. My last must've lasted a couple of years, but when it went I just re-wired a new one in, in under ten minutes.
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Bin the flow controllers; they're over-priced, annoying, and fragile things.
Get a couple of cheap Chinese motor controllers:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/334001873263
We've used them for years now and I always keep a spare in the glove compartment. My last must've lasted a couple of years, but when it went I just re-wired a new one in, in under ten minutes.
Another high class item from china 😂😂😂😂 wouldn't put that rubbish in any of my vans it’s very likely to catch fire , sub standard cables and components , just like theses cheap Chinese heaters ones use in camper vans many have gone up in flames and insurance won’t pay out as they aren’t CE marked or approved use at your own risk . Never worth the risk for paying around £90 more for a decent approved item , that’s covered with a warranty.
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Another high class item from china 😂😂😂😂 wouldn't put that rubbish in any of my vans it’s very likely to catch fire , sub standard cables and components , just like theses cheap Chinese heaters ones use in camper vans many have gone up in flames and insurance won’t pay out as they aren’t CE marked or approved use at your own risk . Never worth the risk for paying around £90 more for a decent approved item , that’s covered with a warranty.
Funnily enough, whatever flow controller you're using, yep, made in China. ;D
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Another high class item from china 😂😂😂😂 wouldn't put that rubbish in any of my vans it’s very likely to catch fire , sub standard cables and components , just like theses cheap Chinese heaters ones use in camper vans many have gone up in flames and insurance won’t pay out as they aren’t CE marked or approved use at your own risk . Never worth the risk for paying around £90 more for a decent approved item , that’s covered with a warranty.
Funnily enough, whatever flow controller you're using, yep, made in China. ;D
No they aren’t
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No they aren’t
Aye, they will be. We all know it.
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Flow controller is completely unnecessary. Haven't used once since the old dial days. Present pump is over 5 years old.
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Flow controller is completely unnecessary. Haven't used once since the old dial days. Present pump is over 5 years old.
I think the primary purpose is to save water, rather than reduce wear on the pump.
Generally speaking, increasing the flow will speed up the cleaning, but beyond a certain point, increasing the flow will not noticeably increase the speed (so you are just wasting water)
Plus, a flow controller will automatically adjust the power to the pump to compensate for a higher level to pump to, longer hose etc. without a flow controller, the flow would decrease at height and hose length.
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Flow controller is completely unnecessary. Haven't used once since the old dial days. Present pump is over 5 years old.
I think the primary purpose is to save water, rather than reduce wear on the pump.
Generally speaking, increasing the flow will speed up the cleaning, but beyond a certain point, increasing the flow will not noticeably increase the speed (so you are just wasting water)
Plus, a flow controller will automatically adjust the power to the pump to compensate for a higher level to pump to, longer hose etc. without a flow controller, the flow would decrease at height and hose length.
If there is no flow controller it is as fast as it can be - the controller does not increase the flow beyond the pump's maximum capacity. I work up to 45 feet through 100metres of hose and get no appreciable difference in flow. I can adjust it with the in line tap if I need to turn the flow down.
I like to do things that "can't be done" or "won't work" - my other fave is reinforced pole hose on my reel instead of microbore - which saves a lot of effort and arm ache.
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No they aren’t
Aye, they will be. We all know it.
As usual you know best
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A flow controller makes so much sense for so many reasons. The spring V16's are fantastic controllers and at around £100 really are a no brainer. Many negatives to not having one and many positives to having one. Not even worth arguing about!😎👌
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A flow controller makes so much sense for so many reasons. The spring V16's are fantastic controllers and at around £100 really are a no brainer. Many negatives to not having one and many positives to having one. Not even worth arguing about!😎👌
Educate me why I would be better off with one.
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A flow controller makes so much sense for so many reasons. The spring V16's are fantastic controllers and at around £100 really are a no brainer. Many negatives to not having one and many positives to having one. Not even worth arguing about!😎👌
Educate me why I would be better off with one.
One simple one is you aren’t relying on the pumps pressure switch which will burn out , but Ian Shepperd is the expert on this subject
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but Ian Shepperd is the expert on this subject
I take it Ian is a supplier of flow controllers?
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A flow controller makes so much sense for so many reasons. The spring V16's are fantastic controllers and at around £100 really are a no brainer. Many negatives to not having one and many positives to having one. Not even worth arguing about!😎👌
Educate me why I would be better off with one.
One simple one is you aren’t relying on the pumps pressure switch which will burn out , but Ian Shepperd is the expert on this subject
And yet after 6 years of the same pumps this has not happened.
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A flow controller makes so much sense for so many reasons. The spring V16's are fantastic controllers and at around £100 really are a no brainer. Many negatives to not having one and many positives to having one. Not even worth arguing about!😎👌
Educate me why I would be better off with one.
One simple one is you aren’t relying on the pumps pressure switch which will burn out , but Ian Shepperd is the expert on this subject
And yet after 6 years of the same pumps this has not happened.
Do you turn the pump off between jobs ? If you do this will reduce the work the pressure switch does , you can work without a controller but there are more advantages than disadvantages, water usage will be far higher and if ones have a small tank will run out if running flat out . I think it’s generally agreed as an industry standard that a controller is beneficial I cannot think of any system maker that doesn’t use one .
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I turn the tap off when I don't need it. Often between windows, certainly anytime more than a few seconds. The electricity stays switched on at all times from starting the first job to completing the last.
If I need to lower the flow (leaky windows, real georgian, leaded lights, sliding sash etc.) - I turn the tap down a bit.
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Emailed you Ian....the battery is only 3 months old and is showing full charge and operating normally with new controller.
Hi John. I have replied to your email earlier. Can i ask how old is the controller. Depending on age it might be worth us having a look at it.
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I long accepted that there are different ways to achieve the same end and there are different products on the market. Competition is no bad thing as it keeps us striving to improve the Spring Pump controller and keeps prices keen. The origins of our pump controller go back to a conversation with a window cleaner probably 18 odd years ago. The issue he was having were. High water use. 2 Pump pressure switch regularly failing, Pump motor over heating and failing. Battery charge not lasting long.
A pump driven straight form a battery will draw around 7amps and hour assuming it is a 5,2 litre per minute pump running into 6mm hose actual flow to a brush is around 2.7 litres per minute this is due to the restriction created by the hose. 2.7 litres a minute is 162 litres an hour. As The pressure switch is under high load (7amps) when a tap is closed the pressure switch opens to stop the pump and that high energy arch,s across the switch burning it out.
The first pump controller V1 as we called it gave flow control over the pump meaning that the same amount of water could be used if needed But current draw dropped meaning that the battery charge lasted longer ( More time to work) People also found they could work just as effectively with less water on the glass. and flow rates were reduced. In a stroke the V1 meant both water and battery charge both lasted longer.
Next we look at protecting the pump pressure Switch and we introduced a Manual calibration. Now Rather than the pump pressure Switch opening under high load when flow stopped. The controller now stopped the pump well before the pump pressure switch needed to. The controller reduced load on the pump motor and pressure switch, reduced battery current draw ( without effecting the maximum flow) Giving flow control over the pump meant that water used could be varied to suit each work site. While using a tap can give variation of flow. The pump is still working flat out and working much harder than it needs to.
Controllers then Reduced current draw, prevented pump pressure switches burning out and gave the ability to suit flow to each job. The Pressure switch protection has been very effective and it is unusual these day for a pump pressure switch to fail.
Over time and through conversations with distributors and suppliers the controller have developed and we have added Battery voltage indication, Current sensing check, Electrical checks, Reverse polarity protection. The 4th Button on the new V16 is a result of requests from people using controllers as is the reverse polarity protection.
In all the years we have designed, tested and built the controllers in the UK, we give a 2 year return to base warranty. We look to provide support to those using the controllers directly and produce online and paper user guides and information and videos for installation all that is freely available.
In terms of Flow, pressure and battery current draw the following covers all these https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HNM8HXASa0k&t=265s
Many thanks to Dave and Sam Pedan for the video
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A flow controller makes so much sense for so many reasons. The spring V16's are fantastic controllers and at around £100 really are a no brainer. Many negatives to not having one and many positives to having one. Not even worth arguing about!😎👌
Educate me why I would be better off with one.
Hopefully you've now been educated! ;D
Top man Ian.
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Reverse polarity protection.
It was the lack of this in the early ones that switched me onto cheap Chinese motor controllers.
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Reverse polarity protection.
It was the lack of this in the early ones that switched me onto cheap Chinese motor controllers.
The V9 and V11 used a Diode to protect the PCB and micro processor in the event of miss connection to the battery ( Red & Black cables) . However this did short the Diode and the controller needed to come back to us for a repair.
V16 is a completely new Design from the ground up and this gave us an opportunity to improve reverse polarity protection on the Red & Black. If these are miss connected to a battery the controller will not power up, Once the cables are correctly connected the V16 powers up as normal. Fitting a fuse will also increase the level of protection to both the controller and cables.
What ever controller is used fitting a correctly rated Inline Fuse between the battery and controller can save a lot of issues
Cheers
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Reverse polarity protection.
It was the lack of this in the early ones that switched me onto cheap Chinese motor controllers.
I'd love to spend a day in your brain. It was easier to make your own controller than consistently get black to black and red to red correct ? ;D ;D
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controller wire were to always red and black
when I had an early pure PF system both controllers had nothing but black wires - both to the battery and the pump
that made life quite difficult
Darran
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A flow controller makes so much sense for so many reasons. The spring V16's are fantastic controllers and at around £100 really are a no brainer. Many negatives to not having one and many positives to having one. Not even worth arguing about!😎👌
Educate me why I would be better off with one.
Hopefully you've now been educated! ;D
Top man Ian.
Not really. I see no practical benefit for me. In the last 6 years have never had a pump fail and have never had a low battery issue. I use about 400 litres of water on a 6 hour day on domestic. I really don't get the issue.
Many times I hear of people on here bewailing their flow controllers playing up.
I really would change if there was a practical benefit to me so here's a question. How often do you vary the flow on your controller to suit the conditions of the job you are doing? Do you turn off your water when you move between groups of windows?
Talk me through - say - a domestic job that you do; let's say a pair of average semis from one van stop. Here's what I do.
Pull up reel out hose, clip in tap, position brush to first top window. Turn on tap to desired flow (usually full) - if the next window is with a couple of seconds don't turn off. If it is more than 5 seconds or so away, flick the tap off and back on when I get the brush in position. Carry on until the job is done. Tap off. Reel in, unclip tap and wrap it round the reel.
Now let's say a farmhouse with some real sliding sash Georgian windows. Now I adjust the tap down - especially when doing the lower leaf and not wanting to spray water and bring dust, grit, muck down from the gap. But when I want to do do the UPVC/metal patio doors or extension or rooflights I want full power so turn the power up. How would you do this?
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Tap off.
Thats some faff, a tap ? Most of us use univalves now i suspect ?
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I turn the tap off when I don't need it. Often between windows, certainly anytime more than a few seconds. The electricity stays switched on at all times from starting the first job to completing the last.
If I need to lower the flow (leaky windows, real georgian, leaded lights, sliding sash etc.) - I turn the tap down a bit.
Doing this will put constant pressure on the pressure switch causing premature failure but if you have done that for years then guess just carry on 😂😂
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Tap off.
Thats some faff, a tap ? Most of us use univalves now i suspect ?
Can you use a univalve to adjust the flow? Does it work well with a swivel head?
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I turn the tap off when I don't need it. Often between windows, certainly anytime more than a few seconds. The electricity stays switched on at all times from starting the first job to completing the last.
If I need to lower the flow (leaky windows, real georgian, leaded lights, sliding sash etc.) - I turn the tap down a bit.
Doing this will put constant pressure on the pressure switch causing premature failure but if you have done that for years then guess just carry on 😂😂
I have. One pump gets 80% of the use but it's flow and operation is no worse than the the second pump when that gets used.
They are badged Gardiner pumps and they stopped selling them years ago.
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A flow controller makes so much sense for so many reasons. The spring V16's are fantastic controllers and at around £100 really are a no brainer. Many negatives to not having one and many positives to having one. Not even worth arguing about!😎👌
Educate me why I would be better off with one.
Hopefully you've now been educated! ;D
Top man Ian.
Not really. I see no practical benefit for me. In the last 6 years have never had a pump fail and have never had a low battery issue. I use about 400 litres of water on a 6 hour day on domestic. I really don't get the issue.
Many times I hear of people on here bewailing their flow controllers playing up.
I really would change if there was a practical benefit to me so here's a question. How often do you vary the flow on your controller to suit the conditions of the job you are doing? Do you turn off your water when you move between groups of windows?
Talk me through - say - a domestic job that you do; let's say a pair of average semis from one van stop. Here's what I do.
Pull up reel out hose, clip in tap, position brush to first top window. Turn on tap to desired flow (usually full) - if the next window is with a couple of seconds don't turn off. If it is more than 5 seconds or so away, flick the tap off and back on when I get the brush in position. Carry on until the job is done. Tap off. Reel in, unclip tap and wrap it round the reel.
Now let's say a farmhouse with some real sliding sash Georgian windows. Now I adjust the tap down - especially when doing the lower leaf and not wanting to spray water and bring dust, grit, muck down from the gap. But when I want to do do the UPVC/metal patio doors or extension or rooflights I want full power so turn the power up. How would you do this?
Well you can lead a horse to water but...
Are you old, stubborn & stuck in your ways by any chance?
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I turn the tap off when I don't need it. Often between windows, certainly anytime more than a few seconds. The electricity stays switched on at all times from starting the first job to completing the last.
If I need to lower the flow (leaky windows, real georgian, leaded lights, sliding sash etc.) - I turn the tap down a bit.
Doing this will put constant pressure on the pressure switch causing premature failure but if you have done that for years then guess just carry on 😂😂
I have. One pump gets 80% of the use but it's flow and operation is no worse than the the second pump when that gets used.
They are badged Gardiner pumps and they stopped selling them years ago.
If they have Gardiner’s on them they are aquatec pumps I use them they are the best pumps I have ever had I tend to change them every 6-7 years and they are running 8 hours a day 5 days a week pumping hot water never had one stop working just flow rate drops a bit and they make a bit of noise
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Tap off.
Thats some faff, a tap ? Most of us use univalves now i suspect ?
Can you use a univalve to adjust the flow? Does it work well with a swivel head?
I use controller for flow. I've no issues using my univalve with my gardiner swivel attachment.
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A flow controller makes so much sense for so many reasons. The spring V16's are fantastic controllers and at around £100 really are a no brainer. Many negatives to not having one and many positives to having one. Not even worth arguing about!😎👌
Educate me why I would be better off with one.
Hopefully you've now been educated! ;D
Top man Ian.
Not really. I see no practical benefit for me. In the last 6 years have never had a pump fail and have never had a low battery issue. I use about 400 litres of water on a 6 hour day on domestic. I really don't get the issue.
Many times I hear of people on here bewailing their flow controllers playing up.
I really would change if there was a practical benefit to me so here's a question. How often do you vary the flow on your controller to suit the conditions of the job you are doing? Do you turn off your water when you move between groups of windows?
Talk me through - say - a domestic job that you do; let's say a pair of average semis from one van stop. Here's what I do.
Pull up reel out hose, clip in tap, position brush to first top window. Turn on tap to desired flow (usually full) - if the next window is with a couple of seconds don't turn off. If it is more than 5 seconds or so away, flick the tap off and back on when I get the brush in position. Carry on until the job is done. Tap off. Reel in, unclip tap and wrap it round the reel.
Now let's say a farmhouse with some real sliding sash Georgian windows. Now I adjust the tap down - especially when doing the lower leaf and not wanting to spray water and bring dust, grit, muck down from the gap. But when I want to do do the UPVC/metal patio doors or extension or rooflights I want full power so turn the power up. How would you do this?
Well you can lead a horse to water but...
Are you old, stubborn & stuck in your ways by any chance?
Not really. All I have been told is that it will strain the pump pressure switch and use up my battery too quickly. Neither of which have happened to me. In return I get complete flow control.
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Each to their own lol.
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Tap off.
Thats some faff, a tap ? Most of us use univalves now i suspect ?
Can you use a univalve to adjust the flow? Does it work well with a swivel head?
I use controller for flow. I've no issues using my univalve with my gardiner swivel attachment.
Can you adjust the flow when you are away from the van and if so by how much?
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Each to their own lol.
So no answer other than LOL because my pumps and battery should have failed? And yet they don't. Must be irritating to some that some people get through more flow controllers than I get through pumps.
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I turn the tap off when I don't need it. Often between windows, certainly anytime more than a few seconds. The electricity stays switched on at all times from starting the first job to completing the last.
If I need to lower the flow (leaky windows, real georgian, leaded lights, sliding sash etc.) - I turn the tap down a bit.
Doing this will put constant pressure on the pressure switch causing premature failure but if you have done that for years then guess just carry on 😂😂
I have. One pump gets 80% of the use but it's flow and operation is no worse than the the second pump when that gets used.
They are badged Gardiner pumps and they stopped selling them years ago.
If they have Gardiner’s on them they are aquatec pumps I use them they are the best pumps I have ever had I tend to change them every 6-7 years and they are running 8 hours a day 5 days a week pumping hot water never had one stop working just flow rate drops a bit and they make a bit of noise
Yes that's the ones - Aquatec. You can get them badged from Grippatank too. Or just get Aquatec.
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Tap off.
Thats some faff, a tap ? Most of us use univalves now i suspect ?
Can you use a univalve to adjust the flow? Does it work well with a swivel head?
I use controller for flow. I've no issues using my univalve with my gardiner swivel attachment.
Can you adjust the flow when you are away from the van and if so by how much?
I know you didn't ask me but you could if you had the remote one with fob or app. I just have the standard v11's.
Personally I never really need to adjust the flow. Maybe for a first clean or to wash the van I'd turn it up.
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Each to their own lol.
So no answer other than LOL because my pumps and battery should have failed? And yet they don't. Must be irritating to some that some people get through more flow controllers than I get through pumps.
Mate you crack on if you're happy. I think I have more info about pumps & batterys etc but we'll just agree to disagree. My pumps & batterys will last longer with a controller & a good charge routine.
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Tap off.
Thats some faff, a tap ? Most of us use univalves now i suspect ?
Can you use a univalve to adjust the flow? Does it work well with a swivel head?
I use controller for flow. I've no issues using my univalve with my gardiner swivel attachment.
Can you adjust the flow when you are away from the van and if so by how much?
I've never had a need too. If i did need to i could fold the pole hose i suppose, harder or looser. But you have highlighted something else...... you use Aquattec pumps. I'll stick my neck out and say if you do that set up with a Surflow pump you'll be lucky to get 12 months out of a pressure switch. I change enough of them regularly to know that is my experience with them. I've never had my hands on an Aquatec pump to know anything about them.
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Each to their own lol.
So no answer other than LOL because my pumps and battery should have failed? And yet they don't. Must be irritating to some that some people get through more flow controllers than I get through pumps.
Mate you crack on if you're happy. I think I have more info about pumps & batterys etc but we'll just agree to disagree. My pumps & batterys will last longer with a controller & a good charge routine.
Well tell me about them. If it works then explain.
How long have your pumps and batteries lasted?
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Each to their own lol.
So no answer other than LOL because my pumps and battery should have failed? And yet they don't. Must be irritating to some that some people get through more flow controllers than I get through pumps.
My Sureflow is 13 years old. ;D ;D
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Tap off.
Thats some faff, a tap ? Most of us use univalves now i suspect ?
Can you use a univalve to adjust the flow? Does it work well with a swivel head?
I use controller for flow. I've no issues using my univalve with my gardiner swivel attachment.
Can you adjust the flow when you are away from the van and if so by how much?
I've never had a need too. If i did need to i could fold the pole hose i suppose, harder or looser. But you have highlighted something else...... you use Aquattec pumps. I'll stick my neck out and say if you do that set up with a Surflow pump you'll be lucky to get 12 months out of a pressure switch. I change enough of them regularly to know that is my experience with them. I've never had my hands on an Aquatec pump to know anything about them.
There you go. I have used Shurflo - with a flow controller because the pressure switch WILL fail if you don't. (cheap as it is) However when I changed the Shurflos I asked Alex why his pumps were better and he said the pump was far more robust and the pressure switch less prone to failure.
Maybe people are harking back to using Shurflos with flow controllers when they could just change to Aquatec?
Remember when a certain manufacturer banged on about zero parts per billion and others said they never went above zero parts per milliion? And yet some of us realise that as long as you are in zero, zero single figures you will be fine?
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And you'd have to be very unlucky for a Spring controller to go faulty. Almost always bad connections, battery or user error of some sort.
I've been wfp for 13 years now & have had four v7's (two in each two man van) which I sold on ebay to upgrade to four V11's. I may eventually upgrade to v16's. I think the Spring controllers are great personally & make total sense.
I've aquatec pumps also. I chose them at the time because they had JG fittings built in & only drew 7amps flat out compared to others drawing slightly more i think.
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Last time I spoke to Alex Gardiner he never used a controller. That was a few years back mind.
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Last time I spoke to Alex Gardiner he never used a controller. That was a few years back mind.
Well did he say why?
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SO so far ...
My pumps are going strong. My battery doesn't fail. And Alex Gardiner reportedly doesn't use a flow controller. I don't have a flow controller to go wrong. I use no more water than others.
I have infinite flow control at any given moment.
Tell me again why I am wrong to NOT use a flow controller.
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Tap off.
Thats some faff, a tap ? Most of us use univalves now i suspect ?
Can you use a univalve to adjust the flow? Does it work well with a swivel head?
I use controller for flow. I've no issues using my univalve with my gardiner swivel attachment.
Can you adjust the flow when you are away from the van and if so by how much?
I've never had a need too. If i did need to i could fold the pole hose i suppose, harder or looser. But you have highlighted something else...... you use Aquattec pumps. I'll stick my neck out and say if you do that set up with a Surflow pump you'll be lucky to get 12 months out of a pressure switch. I change enough of them regularly to know that is my experience with them. I've never had my hands on an Aquatec pump to know anything about them.
There you go. I have used Shurflo - with a flow controller because the pressure switch WILL fail if you don't. (cheap as it is) However when I changed the Shurflos I asked Alex why his pumps were better and he said the pump was far more robust and the pressure switch less prone to failure.
Maybe people are harking back to using Shurflos with flow controllers when they could just change to Aquatec?
Remember when a certain manufacturer banged on about zero parts per billion and others said they never went above zero parts per milliion? And yet some of us realise that as long as you are in zero, zero single figures you will be fine?
You sat on that info, had to be dragged out of ya. Nice.
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SO so far ...
My pumps are going strong. My battery doesn't fail. And Alex Gardiner reportedly doesn't use a flow controller. I don't have a flow controller to go wrong. I use no more water than others.
I have infinite flow control at any given moment.
Tell me again why I am wrong to NOT use a flow controller.
You said it yourself, and you've gone all around the world to say it............... You use an Aquatec pump.
There you go. I have used Shurflo - with a flow controller because the pressure switch WILL fail if you don't.
Are you smiling still ?
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Each to their own lol.
So no answer other than LOL because my pumps and battery should have failed? And yet they don't. Must be irritating to some that some people get through more flow controllers than I get through pumps.
Mate you crack on if you're happy. I think I have more info about pumps & batterys etc but we'll just agree to disagree. My pumps & batterys will last longer with a controller & a good charge routine.
Well tell me about them. If it works then explain.
How long have your pumps and batteries lasted?
Mate i don't know exactly how long. Years in both vans. I don't want to get into all this. I can't type that quick & it's frustrating.
But if a controller allows your pump to only be working at say half power it will last twice as long in theory. It will also use only draw half the power thus draining the battery less. With a decent leisure battery & charge routine (split & bench combined) you'll then be taking less deep cycles out of your battery. Read up about battery cycles & not draining them below a certain percentage on the net if you're not convinced. It makes for the most efficient system.
Plenty will get by with their scrap yard starter battery or connect to vehicle battery & say they never have a problem I know but it's just not the way to go.
I can't type any more. My fingers ache.
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When they go do they just stop working?
On Friday mine turned itself off 3 times during the day but when I pressed the button it came back on again.
Today after 5 minutes it switched itself off and wouldn't come back on....fiddled with wiring to no avail so did rest of day with battery straight to pump.......new controller ordered.
On full flow it certainly makes a difference speed wise but certainly uses up the water.
As it turns out mate, you don't need a controller. Just get an Aquatec pump.
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SO so far ...
My pumps are going strong. My battery doesn't fail. And Alex Gardiner reportedly doesn't use a flow controller. I don't have a flow controller to go wrong. I use no more water than others.
I have infinite flow control at any given moment.
Tell me again why I am wrong to NOT use a flow controller.
No right or wrong. Do what you want. Each to their own.
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SO so far ...
My pumps are going strong. My battery doesn't fail. And Alex Gardiner reportedly doesn't use a flow controller. I don't have a flow controller to go wrong. I use no more water than others.
I have infinite flow control at any given moment.
Tell me again why I am wrong to NOT use a flow controller.
You said it yourself, and you've gone all around the world to say it............... You use an Aquatec pump.
There you go. I have used Shurflo - with a flow controller because the pressure switch WILL fail if you don't.
Are you smiling still ?
Not at all. I only had an Aquatec by chance. I just bought a "Gardiners" pump and took a chance. I am passing on my experience. I had to look up what the pump was called. I fitted it and forgot it. Literally.
I wouldn't give up the infinite flow control I have even if I got through twice as many pumps and batteries. But I don't.
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When they go do they just stop working?
On Friday mine turned itself off 3 times during the day but when I pressed the button it came back on again.
Today after 5 minutes it switched itself off and wouldn't come back on....fiddled with wiring to no avail so did rest of day with battery straight to pump.......new controller ordered.
On full flow it certainly makes a difference speed wise but certainly uses up the water.
As it turns out mate, you don't need a controller. Just get an Aquatec pump.
... and a tap. ;D
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Each to their own lol.
So no answer other than LOL because my pumps and battery should have failed? And yet they don't. Must be irritating to some that some people get through more flow controllers than I get through pumps.
Mate you crack on if you're happy. I think I have more info about pumps & batterys etc but we'll just agree to disagree. My pumps & batterys will last longer with a controller & a good charge routine.
Well tell me about them. If it works then explain.
How long have your pumps and batteries lasted?
Mate i don't know exactly how long. Years in both vans. I don't want to get into all this. I can't type that quick & it's frustrating.
But if a controller allows your pump to only be working at say half power it will last twice as long in theory. It will also use only draw half the power thus draining the battery less. With a decent leisure battery & charge routine (split & bench combined) you'll then be taking less deep cycles out of your battery. Read up about battery cycles & not draining them below a certain percentage on the net if you're not convinced. It makes for the most efficient system.
Plenty will get by with their scrap yard starter battery or connect to vehicle battery & say they never have a problem I know but it's just not the way to go.
I can't type any more. My fingers ache.
I don't use a scrapyard battery (though I did when I started - but they didn't last long) - I don't connect to my vehicle battery (because I believe I might get caught out) and I agree that is not the way to go.
But those are different issues to using a flow controller.
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It's all connected.
I'm not arguing anymore. I'm tired. Night. :)
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SO so far ...
My pumps are going strong. My battery doesn't fail. And Alex Gardiner reportedly doesn't use a flow controller. I don't have a flow controller to go wrong. I use no more water than others.
I have infinite flow control at any given moment.
Tell me again why I am wrong to NOT use a flow controller.
You said it yourself, and you've gone all around the world to say it............... You use an Aquatec pump.
There you go. I have used Shurflo - with a flow controller because the pressure switch WILL fail if you don't.
Are you smiling still ?
Not at all. I only had an Aquatec by chance. I just bought a "Gardiners" pump and took a chance. I am passing on my experience. I had to look up what the pump was called. I fitted it and forgot it. Literally.
I wouldn't give up the infinite flow control I have even if I got through twice as many pumps and batteries. But I don't.
Ionic’s use the aquatec pumps as well and just put their stickers on them and charge £180 plus for them 😂😂😂😂
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The proof is in the pudding. If your set-up works for you and you’re happy with it, then that is all that matters.
Everything else is irrelevant.
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A flow controller makes so much sense for so many reasons. The spring V16's are fantastic controllers and at around £100 really are a no brainer. Many negatives to not having one and many positives to having one. Not even worth arguing about!😎👌
Educate me why I would be better off with one.
I get the feeling that the last sentence in my post above may come back to haunt me, and I should know better. 😁
My first pump, without a controller lasted 4 years. My second pump (same pump) with a controller lasted 14 years!
The controller allows full and fine control over pressure and flow rate- both of which are pretty major fundamental factors in the working harmony of a well balanced, reliable and economical delivery system!
I run my pump direct from the van's own battery, all day with no issues. Before I had a controller, this wasn't possible- battery failures were common. The unit micro adjusts to allow for differences in pole height (resistance) so no matter what height I work at, my predetermined flow rate remains exactly the same. I also have full and very accurate control of pressure. All my connections on my reel and pole hose (univalve etc) are all retained only by plastic cable ties- no jubilee clips, metal bands etc. I set the pressure cut off value so fine that I can choose the amount of seconds the pump runs before stopping upon activating the univalve! No leaks, no connectors popping off, no air ingress, no huge splurge of water on reconnection, no requirement to waterproof the van floor etc etc. All the above working in complete harmony means that the pump is only ever working as hard and fast as it absolutely has to in order to supply the pre set, perfect amount of flow and pressure. Which, in turn, equates the minimum wear on the pump and minimum power draw off the battery. In conjunction with a univalve, a considerable saving on water consumption too. I also use a swivel like you but with a gardiner 'water through' neck and a univalve. It's like comparing the smooth guaranteed comfort of a rolls royce to that of a reliant robin.... and all for massive sum of a hundred smackers!
Last year, I replaced my 14 year old one with a new, pre wired V16 spring and shurflo on a back plate from pure freedom. Red wire to van batteru and black earthed to van body (lashing point). Simple, easy, reliable with total and complete control of some of the most important factors at end of delivery.
You choose, but I would never want to work without one, ever.😎👌
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Questions for you Winpro...
When you are stood away from your van working can you adjust the flow rate on your pole and if so how?
Does your controller allow you to run your pump at maximum pressure/power and if you do how do your plastic hose clips fare?
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Questions for you Winpro...
When you are stood away from your van working can you adjust the flow rate on your pole and if so how?
Does your controller allow you to run your pump at maximum pressure/power and if you do how do your plastic hose clips fare?
1. Not with mine but you can buy a version that comes with a remote control which allows this, obviously more expensive. The very rare occasion I may want to reduce my preset flow, I just pinch the hose.
2. I wouldn't encounter any situation that would require this but yes, of course you can run the pump at full flow and full pressure. You have total control from zero to maximum over all values. Me personally, I run a flow of 30 out of a maximum of 99 and pressure at 48 from 99. At a flow rate
of 40, water is bouncing off the glass. My maximum, on say a glass wall is 35. Pressure is adjusted slightly, +/- 3 values approx to counter winter and summer ambient temps or if I use the immersion.
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controller wire were to always red and black
when I had an early pure PF system both controllers had nothing but black wires - both to the battery and the pump
that made life quite difficult
Darran
Hi Darren. Yes the V3 controllers we produced way back did use Just Red/Black cables for Battery and Pump connections. Back then we put number tags on the cables to identify which was which. One of a number of changes over time was to use different colour cables for the Pump output using a UK standard Brown for Positive and Blue for Negative which for those of us of a certain vintage was the same used in plugs before fully moulded plugs became a thing.
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So let me tell you a about a farmhouse that I do. The fronts have traditional sliding sash windows which are a bit worse for wear. One is particularly poor so I turn the flow low.
The backs have upper windows which are leaded and need to be carefully cleaned. But then there are rooflights on a new extension which has new glass doors across its whole width.
So I want low flow in places, mid flow on the rooflights and full flow on the patio doors. I adjust thus with a tap.
I don't see any benefit to the system being used by most on here.
The owner did say that the previous cleaner got water in the old windows.
Maybe he just cracked on at his pre set speed?
If I had a fob to adjust flow from a distance how long does it take to change and settle down? Immediately? A couple of seconds? Longer? Does it work from behind a house?
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So let me tell you a about a farmhouse that I do. The fronts have traditional sliding sash windows which are a bit worse for wear. One is particularly poor so I turn the flow low.
The backs have upper windows which are leaded and need to be carefully cleaned. But then there are rooflights on a new extension which has new glass doors across its whole width.
So I want low flow in places, mid flow on the rooflights and full flow on the patio doors. I adjust thus with a tap.
I don't see any benefit to the system being used by most on here.
The owner did say that the previous cleaner got water in the old windows.
Maybe he just cracked on at his pre set speed?
If I had a fob to adjust flow from a distance how long does it take to change and settle down? Immediately? A couple of seconds? Longer? Does it work from behind a house?
Well if you are prepared to allow one job prevent you from using a far better solution for the other 99.9% and be better for your whole system then...... I ain't wasting any more time with you pal, crack on!🤔😎👌
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So let me tell you a about a farmhouse that I do. The fronts have traditional sliding sash windows which are a bit worse for wear. One is particularly poor so I turn the flow low.
The backs have upper windows which are leaded and need to be carefully cleaned. But then there are rooflights on a new extension which has new glass doors across its whole width.
So I want low flow in places, mid flow on the rooflights and full flow on the patio doors. I adjust thus with a tap.
I don't see any benefit to the system being used by most on here.
The owner did say that the previous cleaner got water in the old windows.
Maybe he just cracked on at his pre set speed?
If I had a fob to adjust flow from a distance how long does it take to change and settle down? Immediately? A couple of seconds? Longer? Does it work from behind a house?
Well if you are prepared to allow one job prevent you from using a far better solution for the other 99.9% and be better for your whole system then...... I ain't wasting any more time with you pal, crack on!🤔😎👌
So no "far better solution" at all - just hot air and ridicule from you then. To recap - my simple system gets water where I want it at the precise flow I need it exactly when I want it. Yours doesn't.
I have no failure of pump, no failure of battery no over usage of water.
Sorry if your "Rolls-Royce" can't make it up a farm track. You're getting water to a brush. If you want to do that by gold-plating it so you can look down on me then that's fine by me.
Now ... can anyone else answer this question please?
If I had a fob to adjust flow from a distance how long does it take to change and settle down? Immediately? A couple of seconds? Longer? Does it work from behind a house?
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So let me tell you a about a farmhouse that I do. The fronts have traditional sliding sash windows which are a bit worse for wear. One is particularly poor so I turn the flow low.
The backs have upper windows which are leaded and need to be carefully cleaned. But then there are rooflights on a new extension which has new glass doors across its whole width.
So I want low flow in places, mid flow on the rooflights and full flow on the patio doors. I adjust thus with a tap.
I don't see any benefit to the system being used by most on here.
The owner did say that the previous cleaner got water in the old windows.
Maybe he just cracked on at his pre set speed?
If I had a fob to adjust flow from a distance how long does it take to change and settle down? Immediately? A couple of seconds? Longer? Does it work from behind a house?
The Forum is always a very good place for debate as demonstrated above and people will differ on methods. There is lot of information already here.
To answer the specific question regarding V16 WFP Link radio remote.
1. Yes It can work out of sight of the receiver. We use Long range radio technology. Range can be over a 100 meters depending on the site.
2. The pump is altered instantly. However as the hose is pressurised over 80 meters it can take a couple seconds for the flow to change at the brush head. This is normal Fluid Dynamics, factors such as the run of hose, Expansion rates. Hose wall density, even ambient temperatures have an effect. The colder water becomes its viscosity changes and this will also impact on how fast flow rate changes. The same effect would be noted using a pole tap unless the tap is very close to the brush head.
There are videos showing WFP Link controllers being used in real world sites . This is a link to one of them: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iHl1XDxDMvs&t=483s
The controller in the video is a V11 But the radio technology is the same as used in the Newer V16 WFPL XBT
Thank you to Dave Pedan as always for the review and thank you to CIU for the opportunity to share the information
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So I want low flow in places, mid flow on the rooflights and full flow on the patio doors. I adjust thus with a tap.
If thats what you want and you get then thats great for you. Can't be many who faff about like that.
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So let me tell you a about a farmhouse that I do. The fronts have traditional sliding sash windows which are a bit worse for wear. One is particularly poor so I turn the flow low.
The backs have upper windows which are leaded and need to be carefully cleaned. But then there are rooflights on a new extension which has new glass doors across its whole width.
So I want low flow in places, mid flow on the rooflights and full flow on the patio doors. I adjust thus with a tap.
I don't see any benefit to the system being used by most on here.
The owner did say that the previous cleaner got water in the old windows.
Maybe he just cracked on at his pre set speed?
If I had a fob to adjust flow from a distance how long does it take to change and settle down? Immediately? A couple of seconds? Longer? Does it work from behind a house?
The Forum is always a very good place for debate as demonstrated above and people will differ on methods. There is lot of information already here.
To answer the specific question regarding V16 WFP Link radio remote.
1. Yes It can work out of sight of the receiver. We use Long range radio technology. Range can be over a 100 meters depending on the site.
2. The pump is altered instantly. However as the hose is pressurised over 80 meters it can take a couple seconds for the flow to change at the brush head. This is normal Fluid Dynamics, factors such as the run of hose, Expansion rates. Hose wall density, even ambient temperatures have an effect. The colder water becomes its viscosity changes and this will also impact on how fast flow rate changes. The same effect would be noted using a pole tap unless the tap is very close to the brush head.
There are videos showing WFP Link controllers being used in real world sites . This is a link to one of them: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iHl1XDxDMvs&t=483s
The controller in the video is a V11 But the radio technology is the same as used in the Newer V16 WFPL XBT
Thank you to Dave Pedan as always for the review and thank you to CIU for the opportunity to share the information
Thank you.
When I used an old dial controller with a Shurflo I noticed the small lag between changing the dial and when it came out the brush head 100 metres later.
On my everyday pole the tap (on my holster) is a one quarter turn job that is about 7.5 metres from the brush head - as regards the flow change - it feels instantaneous to me. Even on the Extreme 47 it feels pretty instant too - I'll check next time I use it.
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So I want low flow in places, mid flow on the rooflights and full flow on the patio doors. I adjust thus with a tap.
If thats what you want and you get then thats great for you. Can't be many who faff about like that.
Where is the faff? I move the brush between windows - where I hold the base of the pole with my right hand is very close to the tap - which I flick to the best position. Like a well oiled machine. ;D
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Another one I do is an old 1860's manor house over three (high) floors. Between the transoms and the opener is an old porous sandstone cill with no drip catching moulding underneath. If I splash about on the top pane then water will soak down and into the gap between it and the top frame of the window below. So I go along the transoms on very low flow then along the long panes below at full blast.
Yet another is a similar Accountant's practice in a Georgian building - if I couldn't adjust the flow up and down incrementally then their leaky old windows would have dribbles on the inside. If I set the speed before I started the job then I would be running too slow for the bigger areas of glass.
I have several properties like this on my round.
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Questions for you Winpro...
When you are stood away from your van working can you adjust the flow rate on your pole and if so how?
Does your controller allow you to run your pump at maximum pressure/power and if you do how do your plastic hose clips fare?
Genuine question why would you need to adjust flow rate on the same job ? I understand if doing a first clean or plastic clean but for normal windows never needed to adjust it in 18 + years . To be fair it’s very rare we ever alter the flow rate full stop . We dont have them but you can get a thing called one shot that will adjust the flow etc whilst working up to 100 meters away from the van provided it’s in line of sight
We always double clip hose connections as we use hot water and they will leak if you don’t clip them
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Questions for you Winpro...
When you are stood away from your van working can you adjust the flow rate on your pole and if so how?
Does your controller allow you to run your pump at maximum pressure/power and if you do how do your plastic hose clips fare?
Genuine question why would you need to adjust flow rate on the same job ? I understand if doing a first clean or plastic clean but for normal windows never needed to adjust it in 18 + years . To be fair it’s very rare we ever alter the flow rate full stop . We dont have them but you can get a thing called one shot that will adjust the flow etc whilst working up to 100 meters away from the van provided it’s in line of sight
We always double clip hose connections as we use hot water and they will leak if you don’t clip them
Have a look at my last couple of posts with examples.
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So let me tell you a about a farmhouse that I do. The fronts have traditional sliding sash windows which are a bit worse for wear. One is particularly poor so I turn the flow low.
The backs have upper windows which are leaded and need to be carefully cleaned. But then there are rooflights on a new extension which has new glass doors across its whole width.
So I want low flow in places, mid flow on the rooflights and full flow on the patio doors. I adjust thus with a tap.
I don't see any benefit to the system being used by most on here.
The owner did say that the previous cleaner got water in the old windows.
Maybe he just cracked on at his pre set speed?
If I had a fob to adjust flow from a distance how long does it take to change and settle down? Immediately? A couple of seconds? Longer? Does it work from behind a house?
Well if you are prepared to allow one job prevent you from using a far better solution for the other 99.9% and be better for your whole system then...... I ain't wasting any more time with you pal, crack on!🤔😎👌
So no "far better solution" at all - just hot air and ridicule from you then. To recap - my simple system gets water where I want it at the precise flow I need it exactly when I want it. Yours doesn't.
I have no failure of pump, no failure of battery no over usage of water.
Sorry if your "Rolls-Royce" can't make it up a farm track. You're getting water to a brush. If you want to do that by gold-plating it so you can look down on me then that's fine by me.
Now ... can anyone else answer this question please?
If I had a fob to adjust flow from a distance how long does it take to change and settle down? Immediately? A couple of seconds? Longer? Does it work from behind a house?
Like I said, ain't worth arguing about. Jog on old timer.😎👍
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So let me tell you a about a farmhouse that I do. The fronts have traditional sliding sash windows which are a bit worse for wear. One is particularly poor so I turn the flow low.
The backs have upper windows which are leaded and need to be carefully cleaned. But then there are rooflights on a new extension which has new glass doors across its whole width.
So I want low flow in places, mid flow on the rooflights and full flow on the patio doors. I adjust thus with a tap.
I don't see any benefit to the system being used by most on here.
The owner did say that the previous cleaner got water in the old windows.
Maybe he just cracked on at his pre set speed?
If I had a fob to adjust flow from a distance how long does it take to change and settle down? Immediately? A couple of seconds? Longer? Does it work from behind a house?
We have a few jobs that are similar but just use the same flow rate , if they leak that’s their problem mot mine as I explain if Windows are ropey when quoting that they might leak , if they are that bad we wouldn’t take on the job don’t need that type of work plenty of decent jobs so no point in doing them as far as ime concerned
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Questions for you Winpro...
When you are stood away from your van working can you adjust the flow rate on your pole and if so how?
Does your controller allow you to run your pump at maximum pressure/power and if you do how do your plastic hose clips fare?
Genuine question why would you need to adjust flow rate on the same job ? I understand if doing a first clean or plastic clean but for normal windows never needed to adjust it in 18 + years . To be fair it’s very rare we ever alter the flow rate full stop . We dont have them but you can get a thing called one shot that will adjust the flow etc whilst working up to 100 meters away from the van provided it’s in line of sight
We always double clip hose connections as we use hot water and they will leak if you don’t clip them
I think he's just determined to find situations that justify why he's right and 99% of wfp users, plus every supplier is wrong!🥴🤔🤣
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Questions for you Winpro...
When you are stood away from your van working can you adjust the flow rate on your pole and if so how?
Does your controller allow you to run your pump at maximum pressure/power and if you do how do your plastic hose clips fare?
Genuine question why would you need to adjust flow rate on the same job ? I understand if doing a first clean or plastic clean but for normal windows never needed to adjust it in 18 + years . To be fair it’s very rare we ever alter the flow rate full stop . We dont have them but you can get a thing called one shot that will adjust the flow etc whilst working up to 100 meters away from the van provided it’s in line of sight
We always double clip hose connections as we use hot water and they will leak if you don’t clip them
I think he's just determined to find situations that justify why he's right and 99% of wfp users, plus every supplier is wrong!🥴🤔🤣
;D
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'A problem for every solution' that's it! 😁
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So let me tell you a about a farmhouse that I do. The fronts have traditional sliding sash windows which are a bit worse for wear. One is particularly poor so I turn the flow low.
The backs have upper windows which are leaded and need to be carefully cleaned. But then there are rooflights on a new extension which has new glass doors across its whole width.
So I want low flow in places, mid flow on the rooflights and full flow on the patio doors. I adjust thus with a tap.
I don't see any benefit to the system being used by most on here.
The owner did say that the previous cleaner got water in the old windows.
Maybe he just cracked on at his pre set speed?
If I had a fob to adjust flow from a distance how long does it take to change and settle down? Immediately? A couple of seconds? Longer? Does it work from behind a house?
We have a few jobs that are similar but just use the same flow rate , if they leak that’s their problem mot mine as I explain if Windows are ropey when quoting that they might leak , if they are that bad we wouldn’t take on the job don’t need that type of work plenty of decent jobs so no point in doing them as far as ime concerned
They are decent jobs. To me a decent job is one that pays a good rate for the time spent. And it is nice to stand out from others who choose not to do them.
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'A problem for every solution' that's it! 😁
But I have no problem.
And yet you offer a solution where none is needed. And which would reduce the finesse with with which I prefer to work.
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'A problem for every solution' that's it! 😁
But I have no problem.
And yet you offer a solution where none is needed. And which would reduce the finesse with with which I prefer to work.
All sorted then, just carry on exactly as you're doing.👍
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So let me tell you a about a farmhouse that I do. The fronts have traditional sliding sash windows which are a bit worse for wear. One is particularly poor so I turn the flow low.
The backs have upper windows which are leaded and need to be carefully cleaned. But then there are rooflights on a new extension which has new glass doors across its whole width.
So I want low flow in places, mid flow on the rooflights and full flow on the patio doors. I adjust thus with a tap.
I don't see any benefit to the system being used by most on here.
The owner did say that the previous cleaner got water in the old windows.
Maybe he just cracked on at his pre set speed?
If I had a fob to adjust flow from a distance how long does it take to change and settle down? Immediately? A couple of seconds? Longer? Does it work from behind a house?
We have a few jobs that are similar but just use the same flow rate , if they leak that’s their problem mot mine as I explain if Windows are ropey when quoting that they might leak , if they are that bad we wouldn’t take on the job don’t need that type of work plenty of decent jobs so no point in doing them as far as ime concerned
They are decent jobs. To me a decent job is one that pays a good rate for the time spent. And it is nice to stand out from others who choose not to do them.
We can afford to be fussy with what jobs we take on as there is a shortage of cleaners hear but I don’t call the type of job you describe as a decent job , sounds to me that it will have flaking paint , rotten wood etc getting in the bristles of the brush and making the job harder and longer to do , it’s not for us , but each to their own , we prefer nice houses with large UPVC easy to clean windows that are quick to do and pay a premium 😂😂
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We would pole tops regardless of condition and if need be trad the bottoms as long as the price was worth it,turn the flow up turn the flow down etc sod that if it gets the pole it gets a good rinse.
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We would pole tops regardless of condition and if need be trad the bottoms as long as the price was worth it,turn the flow up turn the flow down etc sod that if it gets the pole it gets a good rinse.
So you'll use trad tools but not change the flow of your water to suit?
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So let me tell you a about a farmhouse that I do. The fronts have traditional sliding sash windows which are a bit worse for wear. One is particularly poor so I turn the flow low.
The backs have upper windows which are leaded and need to be carefully cleaned. But then there are rooflights on a new extension which has new glass doors across its whole width.
So I want low flow in places, mid flow on the rooflights and full flow on the patio doors. I adjust thus with a tap.
I don't see any benefit to the system being used by most on here.
The owner did say that the previous cleaner got water in the old windows.
Maybe he just cracked on at his pre set speed?
If I had a fob to adjust flow from a distance how long does it take to change and settle down? Immediately? A couple of seconds? Longer? Does it work from behind a house?
We have a few jobs that are similar but just use the same flow rate , if they leak that’s their problem mot mine as I explain if Windows are ropey when quoting that they might leak , if they are that bad we wouldn’t take on the job don’t need that type of work plenty of decent jobs so no point in doing them as far as ime concerned
They are decent jobs. To me a decent job is one that pays a good rate for the time spent. And it is nice to stand out from others who choose not to do them.
We can afford to be fussy with what jobs we take on as there is a shortage of cleaners hear but I don’t call the type of job you describe as a decent job , sounds to me that it will have flaking paint , rotten wood etc getting in the bristles of the brush and making the job harder and longer to do , it’s not for us , but each to their own , we prefer nice houses with large UPVC easy to clean windows that are quick to do and pay a premium 😂😂
I like houses with large UPVC as well. I then use the pump at full blast and get them done very fast, but as long as I get the hourly rate I want - and of course the customer is happy - then I don't mind using my water flow skilfully at all.
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I increase my flow controller by 3-5 going from small brush to large brush, that's it.
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I like houses with large UPVC as well. I then use the pump at full blast and get them done very fast, but as long as I get the hourly rate I want - and of course the customer is happy - then I don't mind using my water flow skilfully at all.
Using a tap on houses with large UPVC gets them done very fast ? ;D When i get the hourly rate i want i just get them done, not sure about "very" fast.
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We would pole tops regardless of condition and if need be trad the bottoms as long as the price was worth it,turn the flow up turn the flow down etc sod that if it gets the pole it gets a good rinse.
So you'll use trad tools but not change the flow of your water to suit?
No it’s all about the time it takes to get the job done we pole the tops regardless due to H&S if they are they bad just trad em downstairs what’s the point messing about if they are in that bad a condition,if the price isn’t right with windows like that I would walk anyway be cheaper for them to get them repaired than to have me keep cleaning em lol.
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We would pole tops regardless of condition and if need be trad the bottoms as long as the price was worth it,turn the flow up turn the flow down etc sod that if it gets the pole it gets a good rinse.
So you'll use trad tools but not change the flow of your water to suit?
No it’s all about the time it takes to get the job done we pole the tops regardless due to H&S if they are they bad just trad em downstairs what’s the point messing about if they are in that bad a condition,if the price isn’t right with windows like that I would walk anyway be cheaper for them to get them repaired than to have me keep cleaning em lol.
Exactly.
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I like houses with large UPVC as well. I then use the pump at full blast and get them done very fast, but as long as I get the hourly rate I want - and of course the customer is happy - then I don't mind using my water flow skilfully at all.
Using a tap on houses with large UPVC gets them done very fast ? ;D When i get the hourly rate i want i just get them done, not sure about "very" fast.
Not quite. The large UPVC windows get done very fast because the flow is full blast. But if there is (say) a wooden door with a glass panel I can turn it down - especially in winter when I might not want copious amounts of freezing water left behind.