Clean It Up
UK Window Cleaning Forum => Window Cleaning Forum => Topic started by: Simon Trapani on February 06, 2021, 04:13:21 pm
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Already got a static system with ibc & 4040. Am toying with the idea of a 230v booster pump to speed up production. Sticking point has been cost of controller to switch of the booster pump. I currently just have a 12v solenoid & float switch to switch off the water but obviously that won’t switch off the booster pump. My friend is an electrician & said a 12/230 relay such as this should work. Anyone know. Spruce maybe?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5V-1-2-4-8-Channel-Relay-Board-Module-Optocoupler-LED-for-Arduino-PiC-ARM-AVR-dr-/274463367469?var=&hash=item3fe74aa12d
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The ones you linked to are for Arduino control (little computers).
If you have 12v DC pressure switches etc then I would use something like this: http://ebay.to/2My62ug (http://ebay.to/2My62ug). It will allow your 12v DC pressure switch to control upto 10Amps 240vac. You will need to put it in a box as the mains connections will be exposed otherwise.
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Have you considered plugging in the booster to a timer plug . Set it to come on for say 4 hrs straight after you fill the van
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Hi Simon, I have this https://www.xline-systems.co.uk/xline-shop/filters-filter-systems/filter-systems/240v-booster-pump-with-electronic-shutoff-detail (bought mine from Gardiners) and this https://purefreedom.co.uk/auto-shut-off-kit.html. The system will shut down when the IBC is full.
I can leave my RO to fill without having to keep an eye on it. I tend to put a timer on it when filling just in case there's a failure and it over fills.
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Hi Simon, I have this https://www.xline-systems.co.uk/xline-shop/filters-filter-systems/filter-systems/240v-booster-pump-with-electronic-shutoff-detail (bought mine from Gardiners) and this https://purefreedom.co.uk/auto-shut-off-kit.html. The system will shut down when the IBC is full.
I can leave my RO to fill without having to keep an eye on it. I tend to put a timer on it when filling just in case there's a failure and it over fills.
This is what I would use.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WIcImRh-9yc
Ched's post is also interesting.
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Have you considered plugging in the booster to a timer plug . Set it to come on for say 4 hrs straight after you fill the van
Don’t really want a timer.
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Hi Simon, I have this https://www.xline-systems.co.uk/xline-shop/filters-filter-systems/filter-systems/240v-booster-pump-with-electronic-shutoff-detail (bought mine from Gardiners) and this https://purefreedom.co.uk/auto-shut-off-kit.html. The system will shut down when the IBC is full.
I can leave my RO to fill without having to keep an eye on it. I tend to put a timer on it when filling just in case there's a failure and it over fills.
Why do you need a timer Bungle if you’ve got a shut-off & float valve?
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I’ve already got a 12v solenoid & float valve that works great. Also have an overlow as it did fail once & my garage was covered in an inch of water.
Also, would I need a new membrane as i currently have the low pressure one? Not sure if it’s the hf4 or hf5. I’d have to check back my receipts.
And are booster pumps noisy as my garage containing the static is attached to my house & my bedroom is above?
And what’s the difference between your controller Bungle & this?: https://purefreedom.co.uk/large-booster-controller-for-static-systems.html
Thanks all.
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Hi Simon, I have this https://www.xline-systems.co.uk/xline-shop/filters-filter-systems/filter-systems/240v-booster-pump-with-electronic-shutoff-detail (bought mine from Gardiners) and this https://purefreedom.co.uk/auto-shut-off-kit.html. The system will shut down when the IBC is full.
I can leave my RO to fill without having to keep an eye on it. I tend to put a timer on it when filling just in case there's a failure and it over fills.
Why do you need a timer Bungle if you’ve got a shut-off & float valve?
Just in case the float fails. I've flooded the garage a few times. It happened a few times after I bought my IBC. There were shards of plastic left in the bottom after the top of the tank had been cut to fit my transfer pump. It got me paranoid. Also, the booster leaks a little bit if the tank is full but the tap is still turned on. Not a major problem but I don't want to blow a seal in the pump.
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I think that’s what the guy is saying in Spruce’s link at the start of the video. Some sort of added pressure switch for when tank is full to avoid connections leaking or blowing off In the youtube video though he is is using hoselock or similar connectors. I’d want jg, screw fittings or something more trustworthy.
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I think that’s what the guy is saying in Spruce’s link at the start if the video. Some sort of added pressure switch for when tank is full to avoid connections leaking or blowing off In the youtube video though he is is using hoselock or similar connectors. I’d want jg, scree fittings or something more trustworthy.
https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-epc800-electronic-water-pump-control-un/
You can get them cheaper elsewhere.
Machine Mart sell them with a booster pump.
https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/cbm240e-1in-multi-stage-230v-booster-pum/
Its a similar cut off switch on this 240e.
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Ok thanks all.
Weighing it all up that machine mart one looks like a nice neat solution Spruce. I will probably go with that if I do it at all. Just hope it’s not too noisy. Any idea how long it would take to fill a 1000lt ibc?
I already have an external Clarke transfer pump & has lasted me 10 years plus so far as I didn’t want to cut my ibc.
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This is what you want, same as the machine mart one spruce posted but also cheaper.
Merry Tools HK Water Pump Automatic Pressure Control Electronic Switch for Water Pump 151015 https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00BKXWKR2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_CRY0M9Q2FGD9PWZSBJ80?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
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Ok thanks. I’d still need to price a pump though.
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I use this booster, takes me from 38psi to 80psi (sweet spot). Its been good for years, i use it with a ball cock, a overflow and a plug timer. But it could be used with the above controller if u want.
https://www.lawson-his.co.uk/draper-56227-sp100-4-100-l-min-max-1000-w-230-v-multistage-surface-mounted-pump?gclid=Cj0KCQiAmfmABhCHARIsACwPRAA10dQ6ObtoHw5NiV9JFemB2araYHUOlIf0yogAupN7hyy3SJUMxaoaAgozEALw_wcB
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Thanks Mac. Now I got lots to think about!
Also found this thread elsewhere about the pump Spruce recommended in case anybody else needs it for reference. (I see you also posted on it Spruce):
https://windowanother place.co.uk/topic/18421-clarke-cbm240e-booster-pump-fittings-help-please/
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How pathetic that cleanitup won’t let me post a link to another forum. Apologies guys. You’ll have to use your imagination & edit the above link.
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Hi go on Amazon put in float switch and you will c a yellow and blue switch I use one drill a hole in top of tank and set it to cut off a required amount of water think I paid about 15 pound cheers andy
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Update...
So I bought the Clarke booster pump & controller Spruce suggested. Also changed back to 2 pre-filters as suggested by June at Gaps Water as fibredynes can collapse with a booster pump. Gone for 20” this time. System seems to be working great so far (1 hour or so). Tds down very slightly but production has definitely increased. Haven’t tested the run dry/cut off of the booster yet as I’m waiting/hoping my float switch will still cut in after I totally dismantled my system.
Only problem I seem to have is the pressure gauges on the pre-filters work fine until I activate the booster pump when they go to zero??? Any ideas why anyone?
I’ll upload some pics when i figure out how. Doesn’t seem to like the file size or format.
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(http://www.cleanitup.co.uk/smf/1613914312_7A72BC90-BE72-4F39-876A-4D973B9A2862.jpeg)(http://www.cleanitup.co.uk/smf/1613914310_40EDE986-E59C-45D9-B082-3AFE15AD58E0.jpeg)(http://www.cleanitup.co.uk/smf/1613914310_E1F9D44A-942C-4CC0-8E74-7DA8067A3BC7.jpeg)
Still a bit if a lashup for now as I ran out of tubing & connectors.
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(http://www.cleanitup.co.uk/smf/1613914694_21A34420-5801-4863-9EF2-F4BA84D54BED.jpeg)
I think I know why now. My old gauges were inline. These new ones that came with the new housings aren’t getting the water up in them when the booster pump is activated. Not sure how to cure it though? I’ve emailed June at Gaps. Don’t really want to go back to inline gauges if possible. These new ones make it more compact.
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My guess is your booster pump is sucking the water from the filters, so 0 pressure! It could be that your tap pressure/flow rate isn't enough to maintain positive pressure on filters? Not sure it's a problem but check with supplier. I assume your house water pressure is OK when using booster pump?
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I think you’re right Ched.
Not sure if it’s flow, pressure or both but no there’s not as much coming out of say the kitchen tap whilst the booster is in use. But it was similar before when producing water. That’s normal as I’m restricted by the size of the 15mm incoming water main. Be like running a bath whilst trying to water your garden or similar.
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If the booster pump is after the prefilters then it could well be that the gauges read a low pressure. (sorry Ched, you already answered it.)
The booster pump will be sucking water.
When you come to flush, switch the booster off.
If you put your pressure gauge between the booster and the membrane then you will see what water pressure you have on the membrane.
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Just an update on this…
The Clarke cbm240 has packed up after just over a year’s use. Contacted Clarke who said to contact Anglian pumps where i bought it. Sent them a copy of dated invoice. Was told to prepare for return, inly to be told by Clarke it was now out of warranty. What a waste of time.
Am going to carry on without booster pump even with my ridiculously low water pressure. Tds is slightly higher so will use more resin and production is slower. But I'm not in a rush to make water anymore as the second employee didn’t work out. And it was production speed that i needed the pump for.
At nearly £300 a pop the system is simpler without.
Pump just makes a buzzing sound now & won’t pump at all.
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Hi Simon
As the pump is out of warranty, It may be worth you investigating if the issue is the pump head. Perhaps something is blocking the vanes. or pump head seal.
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Ok thanks Ian. I’ll try & have a look as there’s nothing to lose now.
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Just an update on this…
The Clarke cbm240 has packed up after just over a year’s use. Contacted Clarke who said to contact Anglian pumps where i bought it. Sent them a copy of dated invoice. Was told to prepare for return, inly to be told by Clarke it was now out of warranty. What a waste of time.
Am going to carry on without booster pump even with my ridiculously low water pressure. Tds is slightly higher so will use more resin and production is slower. But I'm not in a rush to make water anymore as the second employee didn’t work out. And it was production speed that i needed the pump for.
At nearly £300 a pop the system is simpler without.
Pump just makes a buzzing sound now & won’t pump at all.
It might just be a faulty start capacitor. If you remove the fan cover, switch the pump on and try to spin start it using the fan. Keep your fingers out of the fan. Flick it in other words in the direction of rotation. If the motor slowly builds up speed until it reaches full speed, then suspect the capacitor.
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Ok thanks. I'll hopefully try that at the weekend too. Not really sure what I'm doing though. Took the other end off with the four bolts but couldn't see anything obvious. I'll look at the exploded diagram on the Clarke website later.
Poor imo that at that price it's only lasted just over a year.
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(http://www.cleanitup.co.uk/smf/1649783694_3F2B076A-A42C-405E-8EAB-36A7A47D2390.jpeg)
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Got my new static frame today all I need now is some hose lol.
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As spruce suggested, with it turned off put a small screwdriver through the grill where the impeller is and give it a small turn. Should fire up when you start it up again. Mine's on it's 4th year
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No. Flicking the fan with a screwdriver through the grill doesn’t get it going. Gave it some good flicks multiple times. I’ll try water Ian said at the weekend hopefully.