Clean It Up
UK Window Cleaning Forum => Window Cleaning Forum => Topic started by: Ste M on June 21, 2020, 11:53:18 am
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Morning lads. Ive been cleaning for over 15 years now and make my water using the double DI method, i did used to have an old 300gdp ro but fell out with it as it made water way to slow. Now im looking back at this option as i need to change to a better way of making the water especially as there seems to be a national resin shortage.
My TDS is around 160. I have ok pressure, not brilliant but ok. I currently go through 5-700ltrs a day so need to make its fairly quickly into my IBC in the garage.
Ive looked at the pure freedom set up but I'm unsure on the difference between HF4 and HF5? does anyone know please?
Has anyone also got any other options? I just want the simplest to run with minimal messing and also easy to get filters when changing
Ste
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Morning lads. Ive been cleaning for over 15 years now and make my water using the double DI method, i did used to have an old 300gdp ro but fell out with it as it made water way to slow. Now im looking back at this option as i need to change to a better way of making the water especially as there seems to be a national resin shortage.
My TDS is around 160. I have ok pressure, not brilliant but ok. I currently go through 5-700ltrs a day so need to make its fairly quickly into my IBC in the garage.
Ive looked at the pure freedom set up but I'm unsure on the difference between HF4 and HF5? does anyone know please?
Has anyone also got any other options? I just want the simplest to run with minimal messing and also easy to get filters when changing
Ste
The difference between the 2 is your water pressure from the tap.
HF4 works most efficiently with a water pressure of 80 to 105psi.
HF5 works most efficiently with a water pressure of 50psi to 100psi.
These specs came from the Gardiner website when they still sold membranes.
If you are using a booster pump then HF4 would probably be ok.
As I said many times; my membrane of choice was an HF5. Our water pressure is 50 psi and open flow is 13lpm from the garden tap. Our tap water tds is around 122 atm. My 4040 produces around 2 liters of pure per minute with just slightly over 2lpm of waste.
At 122 the membrane removes 97% of the dissolved solids which is pretty good considering the membrane is now virtually 8 years old. System was purchased and assembled in August 2012.
At 3ppm product water I could just get away without using resin but its too close for comfort for me. I only change resin once a year and a bag of resin lasts me 4 years.
My prefilters are 20" and I have religiously used Fiberdyne carbon block filters since the beginning and are replaced when the r/o has consumed 76K liters (waste plus pure).
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Thanks Spruce
Thats the other question then, do I need a 20inch or 40inch? Your set up ie water tds, sounds similar to mine so what do you have? is it the 20inch? I'll definitely need a booster as well
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Thanks Spruce
Thats the other question then, do I need a 20inch or 40inch? Your set up ie water tds, sounds similar to mine so what do you have? is it the 20inch? I'll definitely need a booster as well
A 4040 is 4" in diameter and 40" long.
If by 20" you are referring to the 4021 then that's half the size so would expect that to produce around 1 litre per minute.
I chose the 4040 as it was the most popular size used by suppliers of van mounts. At the time I also had 3 cleaners including myself drawing water.
My original reasoning was that if I went for a 4021 I could add another housing and membrane to bring it up to the specs of a 4040.
When I saw that a 4021 membrane's price wasn't far off a 4040's I decided that replacing 2 x 4021 membranes would be much more expensive than replacing a single 4040 membrane.
I had no experience with larger r/os back then so all my reasoning was theoretical. I had no idea this membrane would last as long as it has even although my old 450gpd r/o had membranes in it which were 6 years old.
If I had to make a decision based on actual experience now I would still opt for a 4040.
You need to test your water pressure first. One of these test gauges are available from plumbing outlets and screwfix. You also need to measure the free flow of water from a convenient tap.
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https://purefreedom.co.uk/2400-gpd-high-volume-reverse-osmosis-system-40-membrane-40-hf5.html
Is this similar to your set up then?
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https://purefreedom.co.uk/2400-gpd-high-volume-reverse-osmosis-system-40-membrane-40-hf5.html
Is this similar to your set up then?
Yes.
(http://www.cleanitup.co.uk/smf/1592752055_4040 ro 053aaa.jpg)
PS. I circled the waste gate valve to answer another post a while back
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That looks very neat!
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Whats the timer for
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Whats the timer for
Its a froststat connected to a tube heater at the bottom of the enclosure. The enclosure has a wooden cover on the front so an enclosed 'box'. The froststat is set to come on when the temperature drops to 5 degrees.
(http://www.cleanitup.co.uk/smf/1592808066_4040 ro 051a.jpg)(http://www.cleanitup.co.uk/smf/1592808048_4040 ro 052a.jpg)
On the incoming water fed I have a solenoid valve which is attached to a float switch in my IBC tank.
I have since added a water meter after the prefilters so I can see when the service life of my carbon block filter is up and needs to be replaced.
There is also an inline tds meter on the left. Its a 2 sensor unit so I measure the output tds of the membrane before and after di.
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That looks very neat!
It’s Spruce. What d’you expect?! ;D
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Yeah i know theres a few guys on here that to be honest their brains are to good for this job 🤣🤣🤣🤣
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Thanks for your help and advice spruce, ordered the set up today so hopefully here next week at the latest