Clean It Up
UK Window Cleaning Forum => Window Cleaning Forum => Topic started by: a900 on November 28, 2018, 09:48:32 pm
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https://www.tanks-direct.co.uk/ibc-container-heater-2-1000w.html?fee=3&fep=5626&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI0d3uuYf43gIVjpTtCh2sFA41EAQYCyABEgLvCfD_BwE
;D ;D
Thought the price made it kinda humourous then realised that a diesel heater for 2 man is a good £4K 🤔🤔
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I think the 48hr warmup period may be an issue ;D
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As I have said we are developing another option at the moment. We will soon be using this ourselves which I hope to bring to the market within 12 months.
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Waterproof electric blankets? :) Come on you can tell us more ...
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Calorifier vessels, been done before by myself many years ago :)
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I think Lee has found the Peltier module ;D ;D ;D ;D
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LPG.
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Haha,,, No all wrong and it has not been done before.
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I would have thought there was a way of using the heated water produced from the vehicle engine's heat to heat water in a tank. Maybe run hoses through the tank in some form of heat exchanger.
Maybe not hot but warm.
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I would have thought there was a way of using the heated water produced from the vehicle engine's heat to heat water in a tank. Maybe run hoses through the tank in some form of heat exchanger.
Maybe not hot but warm.
You would have to drive a lot of miles to heat up 1000 ltr of water to any reasonable temperature, I seam to recall others tried something similar years ago all went very quite so I assume it was a failure
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I would have thought there was a way of using the heated water produced from the vehicle engine's heat to heat water in a tank. Maybe run hoses through the tank in some form of heat exchanger.
Maybe not hot but warm.
I did that. On a 450l tank we raised the temp by 5 degrees.
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Plus would taking heat from the vehicle cooling system which is designed to run at a set temperature. Which could lead to the engine running less efficient and potentially wear faster. Especially if it slows down the warm up
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I think the only way you can use a vehicle is to use the exhaust by means of copper pipe wrap and only then from after the last lambda sensor as some are heated you could risk confusing the ecu .
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I plumbed a very efficient 250 litre calorifier tank, accumulator tank and expansion tank into the vans radiator system drawing off only the hot water from the engine using the calorifier tank as a radiator means to store the heat and ran water for the window cleaning pump through the heat of the calorifier tank very successfully. I fitted a bypass so I could stop drawing water from the engine when it was hot enough as I could get the water up to hundred degrees if not careful. Fitted a thermostat to control the temperature. It is not easy to fit and set up, but once done it was a very efficient system provided the wfp tank and all hoses including radiator hoses were efficiently insulated. Had to make sure to use copper tubing of half metre for pressure release safety blow out valve as a safety measure. Used it for three years very successfully. Only reason I took it out was I sold the vehicle and never got around to fitting it in new vehicle. In principal it works brilliantly providing you are only trying to heat the water that passes through the calorifier tank and not the whole wfp tank which is where people go wrong.
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Haha,,, No all wrong and it has not been done before.
The only other way to heat water would be by Cavitation. You run a cavitation pump to squeeze and smash the water molecules to such a degree that the water heats up instantly. They use it for industrial heating and manufacturing. Its very effeicent, but can be quite dangerous as the water pressures involved are extreme.
Am.i nearer the mark?
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The only problem with cavitation is that the insides of the pump or housing take a right old battering too , industrialy its not too bad but for the size units we would need we would consantly be breaking down or replacing parts at mega cost no doubt .
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I think the only way you can use a vehicle is to use the exhaust by means of copper pipe wrap and only then from after the last lambda sensor as some are heated you could risk confusing the ecu .
Coiled round the first silencer box is what we did. It was a 1979 series 3 Landover so we didn't really need to worry about lambda sensors or ECUs.
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The only problem with cavitation is that the insides of the pump or housing take a right old battering too , industrialy its not too bad but for the size units we would need we would consantly be breaking down or replacing parts at mega cost no doubt .
Yes they do.
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I think the only way you can use a vehicle is to use the exhaust by means of copper pipe wrap and only then from after the last lambda sensor as some are heated you could risk confusing the ecu .
Coiled round the first silencer box is what we did. It was a 1979 series 3 Landover so we didn't really need to worry about lambda sensors or ECUs.
Was there much of a temp gain ?
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I think the only way you can use a vehicle is to use the exhaust by means of copper pipe wrap and only then from after the last lambda sensor as some are heated you could risk confusing the ecu .
Coiled round the first silencer box is what we did. It was a 1979 series 3 Landover so we didn't really need to worry about lambda sensors or ECUs.
Was there much of a temp gain ?
No.
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I used a tank connected to my van radiator system for 10yrs it contained a stainless steel coil inside a 100gl water tank, it work brilliantly, the water got to Temp that you could not put your hand in the tank. The tank was insulated and had a heating element fitted so you could preheat the water over night Then the van kept it hot throughout the day.
The Tank came from a system available in the USA made by BaneClene which made carpet cleaning truckmounts
I no longer use the tank if anyone wants to buy it😀
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Is that postage paid ? ;D
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Thought I was being funny then ::)roll, assumed you was in US not just Oop North ;D