Clean It Up
UK Window Cleaning Forum => Window Cleaning Forum => Topic started by: simonr on September 23, 2016, 09:38:53 pm
-
Never had a problem before always got the tracks off with a couple of good rubs, last few weeks they've gone nuclear I'm taking twice as long to do some houses so i tried hg glass cleaner in the tank, did zilch. now on fb vision cleans just by being near the glass, anyone have a definite good experience with it or sparkle or anything else please
-
Never had a problem before always got the tracks off with a couple of good rubs, last few weeks they've gone nuclear I'm taking twice as long to do some houses so i tried hg glass cleaner in the tank, did zilch. now on fb vision cleans just by being near the glass, anyone have a definite good experience with it or sparkle or anything else please
Iv noticed that too , takes forever to scrub snail trails - I'm scrubbing the window, then doing a few others and then going back to it hoping the pure would dissolve them . It does work but takes a hell of a long time
-
I find turning the flow of water off then scrubbing gets them off the best...saves water too ;D
-
I tend to rub them with a cloth on downstairs windows it quicker than scrubbing with brush ,then scrub with brush n rinse
-
Hot water is the only thing to easily get rid of them,additives do help but hot is the only good solution for it TBH.
-
Never found any chem that significantly helps dissolve slug and snail trails. As said best scrubbed with very little water on the glass first, then rinsed and for downstairs rub them over with a damp microfibre first then wfp.
-
Try scrubbing in a circular motion over the trails that always works for me. or as JK M&C said a damp microfiber rubbed
over the glass on the lower floors.
-
I love the way the obvious gets overlooked on this forum. Hot water is the best solution, end of discussion!
-
ive been doing it with the water off so it looks like its a microfibre then thanks.
its very strange, i'm in my 14th year & never known them this bad before ... im am down the coast from sellafield nuclear power station though
i know hot water is probably the answer but i don't have it
hey what about bleach ???? ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
-
Different brushes help. Some I have are useless on snail trails whilst others are not so bad.
-
hot water is best if there realy bad a spray of virosol on ur brush helps also a fl;ocked brush is the best brush on slug trails we are now geting to that time of year were they go nuts on the glass ;D
-
flocked brushes and hot water make the job easier.i use vision as well but im not sure it makes a difference on snail trails TBH.
-
Someone needs to invent something we can put in our water that won't contaminate it but leaves a bad taste for slugs on the glass when it dries so that once you start using it the slugs won't go on it. ;D ;D
Another major nuisance in recent years has been spiders. Most of the muck I pull out of my brushes at the end of the day is spiders web. Masses of it piles up in the stock. It seems to be a problem all year round were I live now.
-
I have a separate pole that I can attach fixi clamps web brushes and so, if the widows are badly contaminated with spider
webs I will clean them of with this first, just a quick rub over the webs.
Keeps the brush clean and saves time by not having to rinse those sticky bits of broken web of the glass.
-
Magic eraser works a treat.
-
Hot water gets the spiders and snails running for cover I turned my heater off for a couple of months due to all wiring needing to be replaced and didn't bother till a couple of weeks ago to get round to doing it. It's like a different job with hot water easy peasy.
-
I find hot water is a big bonus on all sorts of jobs.
I've also found flocked type wfp brushes work better than unlocked ones. Downside if you don't use a top rinse bar on the brush then means rinsing off the glass which can be a pain in the arse at height/on acute angles.
-
I find hot water is a big bonus on all sorts of jobs.
I've also found flocked type wfp brushes work better than unflocked ones. Downside if you don't use a top rinse bar on the brush then means rinsing off the glass which can be a pain in the arse at height/on accute angles.
Top rinse bar?
-
I also go around beforehand with a cobweb brush if need be too as seems to save time from keep getting the brushes all messed up and transferring the crap onto the glass.
-
I find hot water is a big bonus on all sorts of jobs.
I've also found flocked type wfp brushes work better than unflocked ones. Downside if you don't use a top rinse bar on the brush then means rinsing off the glass which can be a pain in the arse at height/on accute angles.
Top rinse bar?
Yes a top rinse bar ;D ;D
-
Top rinse bars come in many types but so happens gardiners do them aswell to get an idea http://gardinerpolesystems.co.uk/all-products/indoor-specialized/indoor-glass-cleaning/the-new-gardiner-overspray-trade.html
Some diyers have been known to use window washers off cars too ;D
-
Top rinse bars come in many types but so happens gardiners do them aswell to get an idea http://gardinerpolesystems.co.uk/all-products/indoor-specialized/indoor-glass-cleaning/the-new-gardiner-overspray-trade.html
Some diyers have been known to use window washers off cars too ;D
Iv always wondered if anyone has that?!
1.- how can you clean glass indoors with it ???
2.- is it better using the top rinse bar to 'rinse on' than to just 'rinse on' with your brush ?
-
For indoor work I guess the top jet is used just for minimal fine misting enough to mop it with micropads not get it so soaked as you would do when doing external cleans.
For exterior work the concept for a top rinse bar goes back donkey years to the when wfp was first used on commecial jobs.
Did not matter what type of brush you used as would rinse as you brushed the glass all in one so no extra rinsing was required saving time and effort.
Now for some reason the likes of wagtail and many others have brought back the concept of one pass wfp cleaning using a rinse bar attached to either a pad or brush.
Most mono filiment bristle brushes you can get away with rinsing on and some even do a one pass on regular cleans. However flocked bristles the ends are split so not only gives more contact to the surface you are trying to clean but tends to trap crud in between so you need to either rinse off or use a top rinse bar.
-
For indoor work I guess the top jet is used just for minimal fine misting enough to mop it with micropads not get it so soaked as you would do when doing external.
For exterior work the concept for a top rinse bar goes back donkey years to the when wfp was first used on commecial jobs.
Did not matter what type of brush you used as would rinse as you brushed the glass all in one so no extra rinsing was required saving time and effort.
Now for some reason the likes of wagtail and many others have brought back the concept of one pass wfp cleaning using a rinse bar attached to either a pad or brush.
I certainly do like the idea of it and may even buy one , I rinsed on for the first time on every job this month and enjoyed working, some jobs, I did notice bits on the glass after I'd finished though - so had to go back over it . So I suppose this would eliminate that happening . The options when buying look a bit complicated though , haven't got a clue where to start
-
This looks good as well, although a tad expensive but xline brushes last forever so worth it..
http://www.xline-systems.co.uk/water-fed-poles/evo-lite-brushes/wash-rinse-bar-brush-26cm-dual-trim-mono-detail
-
I don't see the logic of putting a rinse bar in the middle of a brush myself. ::)roll
-
I don't see the logic of putting a rinse bar in the middle of a brush myself. ::)roll
Iv ordered one so il let you know what it's like🤡
-
Thanks Chris ;)
Myself I sometimes also use a wagtail jetstream. That's to say if I remember I've actually got one with all the crap I've got in the van. ;D