Clean It Up
UK Window Cleaning Forum => Window Cleaning Forum => Topic started by: Crystal-clear on April 21, 2016, 10:27:18 am
-
Hello all ,
It's been a while since I posted last
Well as above pretty much , tanks down to around 15% just below the pump, normally the pump is able to continuing sucking the water through , but on yesterday's hot day it just strangly got confused and started to stop start you know,
Started the calibration process but it didn't work properly and after 1 hour it's still not working , I'm going to fill the tank today then recalibrate perhapes it isn't able to calibrate properly if the water level isn't well above the pump?
-
Hello stranger.
Good to see you back posting again. :)
-
I just use an old pf trolley static in the van and just dump a 3m inlet hose into the lid of the van tanks I want to use so your issue has nothing to do with how high the pump is in relation to the tank water level.
Set up that way I can run either tank dry no probs as then I just a case of bleeding the air out to prime the pump again properly.
Sounds to me you still have air getting into the system as when a tank get low with a bottom outlet the water sloshing about (more so on flat tanks) will let air into the inlet pump hose/pipe work so could give you grief.
To prime the pump and bleed all the air out of the system take off the outlet hose to the reel. Then wack the controller up to full throtle. This make take quite a while but you know when it's primed as the tone of the pump will change and you will get a strong flow.
Also maybe worth checking for any kinked hoses, leaks, blocked inline filters etc you may have too and obviously the power to the pump and controller is sound.
-
I just use an old pf trolley static in the van and just dump a 3m inlet hose into the lid of the van tanks I want to use so your issue has nothing to do with how high the pump is in relation to the tank water level.
Set up that way I can run either tank dry no probs as then I just a case of bleeding the air out to prime the pump again properly.
Sounds to me you still have air getting into the system as when a tank get low with a bottom outlet the water sloshing about (more so on flat tanks) will let air into the inlet pump hose/pipe work so could give you grief.
To prime the pump and bleed all the air out of the system take off the outlet hose to the reel. Then wack the controller up to full throtle. This make take quite a while but you know when it's primed as the tone of the pump will change and you will get a strong flow.
Also maybe worth checking for any kinked hoses, leaks, blocked inline filters etc you may have too and obviously the power to the pump and controller is sound.
Yep would pretty much agree, If the water level is below or close to the outlet air in the system is the likely culprit..
-
Lol hi mick wasn't sure if you would be on here still it's been a while,
Right I've got more news
It isn't air
I took 2 hours trying to calibrate then auto calibrate it wasn't happening , unreeled the hose fully pole on floor wasn't happening
It keeps saying PS which is pressure switch I only bought the pump 3 months ago , i have problems with pumps 1-2 years and I just buy a new one but in annoyed it's only 3 months the vendor says he won't give me a warranty saying he never gets a penny from the company called Williamson pumps
Any further advice? I managed to get some sort of slow flow going it's when I turn the flow down to 50-60 it works but it's not a normal 50-60 if you know what I mean, I prefer a higher flow 80*
If it's the pressure switch can I rip it out I really don't give a crap and I prefer having 100psi battery always charged
Further more is the vendor right as in no warranty? I can't argue with him he is my only local shop he gave me a number and told me to try and call them
All this aside if removing the PS works how can I do it ?
I also undid the hoses connecting and going from the pump cleaned the filter too, the water levlel doesn't seem to totally fill the little metal filter too if that means anything
-
PS (pressure switch) will display on the controller for one of two reasons ! Pressure build up in the system activates the pump PS.
2. Electrical/cable fault.
As you are getting some at 50 - 60 but not at higher flow rates something is building up pressure in the system. Now this could be 1. Miss matched or leaking hose connector
2. Dirt or grit in the hose/Brush jets
3. Faulty reel valve
4. Di Beads or particles in the pump head
5. Blocked or jammed pump pre filter/connectors
6. Some of the pump have an adjustable pressure switch
Have you
At 3 months I do not think the pump PS is the issue, easy way to check is switch to a spare pump if you have one. May be worth calling Williamson and checking if the pump is under warranty
The controller although designed to work with a pump pressure switch will operate if you bypass the pump PS. But I suspect you have a blockage of some kind and with out locating and clearing that flow rates are not likely to improve.
-
Thanks for reply
Their is a clicking sound coming from the split relay when the system is running , also the other day a fuse went under the dash board which wasn't charging the battery until I located and replaced with new fuse,
Then everything was fine until a day later it started giving weak flow , there is no grit in the Jets , I really can't imagine there is grit in the hose ,
When I disconnect it from the hose the water runs okay, not as fast as it could , and the filter isn't full of water shouldn't it be full with a half ton sitting on top?
I feel if I put a new pump in it would fix the problem, I've been told that I have to just buy another tho and it's my risk if it doesn't fix the problem.
-
Something else to check what is the battery voltage as displayed on the controller? As you have a split relay does the flow improve with the engine on?
A possibility is the battery is a bit low. When under load from the pump volts would normally fall by 0.2 give or take. EG if starting volts are 12 with the pump off, Volts will drop to 11.8V give or take with the pump running. If you see a larger drop when the battery is under load say 1/2 or volt or more. The issue may be the battery.
Also check if the fuse between the battery and split relay has blown or for any loose connections.
Low battery volts or significant volt loss due to a damaged loose connect would mean the pump may not have enough power and this could effect the flow
-
I drive 2 hours a day easy cos of traffic, battery always showing over 12v , I think the weird stuff are , 1) the clicking sounds , and 2 the water lvl not filling the meshed filter section when I look through the glass as it try's to pump I see a bubble or 2 not major but slight,
-
OK 12V starting voltage is ok. The clicking may be the relay dependant on where it was fitted.
The filter not filling and seeing occasional bubbles, could it be a leaking connector or even the filter allowing air in?
-
If you are driving then the battery voltage with the engine running must be higher than 12v. It should be between 13.8v and 14.4v.
A fully charged battery should read at 12.8/12.9v. This can only be tested when the battery is fully at rest for 4 hours to allow voltage to stabilise.
The clicking will be a 'relay' in the SCR which is cutting in and out. That doesn't sound right. On some SCR there is an adjusting screw. Have you made an adjustments using that?
Ian has asked a good question. Does the pump run better when the engine is running?
IMHO driving around for 2 hours a day isn't sufficient to fully recharge your battery. If you take a little more out than you put back in then eventually you won't have anything left.
-
If you are driving then the battery voltage with the engine running must be higher than 12v. It should be between 13.8v and 14.4v.
A fully charged battery should read at 12.8/12.9v. This can only be tested when the battery is fully at rest for 4 hours to allow voltage to stabilise.
The clicking will be a 'relay' in the SCR which is cutting in and out. That doesn't sound right. On some SCR there is an adjusting screw. Have you made an adjustments using that?
Ian has asked a good question. Does the pump run better when the engine is running?
IMHO driving around for 2 hours a day isn't sufficient to fully recharge your battery. If you take a little more out than you put back in then eventually you won't have anything left.
+1
Sounds to me like you have a low charged battery, and when you turn your flow down the pumps kicks back in as it needs less power for the lower flow
Check and see if the voltage reading jumps up when your van van is on (it might take a min before it jumps as the relay waits until the van baterry has sufficient power before sending charge to your leisure)
If it doesn't, your relay is dud
Bench charge your battery over night, see if it helps
Check both fuses on your relay (from van bat to relay, and from leisure bat to relay)
Sounds like you've used power, but a bit back in and done this over again to the point where you've taken more out then you've put back in
(I.e your relay trickle charges so it may put in 5amps/h, but your pumps may use 3-4amps/h each so your taking out 15 amps per pump over a 5 hour day but only putting 10 back in....over time you drain the battery)
-
Right I've been out to van
I called Williamson pumps had a half hour convasation ,
He was almost adamant that there is nothing wrong with the pump and encouraged me to fuslt find more
He told me to turn pump on and see if I can get 5 litres of water in 60s which I did get that exactly
He told me your fualt finding ends there and so there is nothing wrong with the pump
The battery seems fine I turn engine on it goes to like 13.5 or something when running it shows 12.8 so I don't think it's that .
I disconnected the filer I thought that was going to be the problem catching air it wasn't ,
And still up to 100psi it stop starts
Down to 70 I get a workable flow but slow and annoying
He said I should look at the hose
Now at one point while the pressure was building I disconnected the main pipe to let the water flow and flow it does at 5p per min, and a lot of steam or sort of smoke came out of the hose reel and the main connector as if something in the hose has blocked it not allowing it to flow at high speed?and at max setting it just piles up pressure ?
But how where do I start its 6m microbore what end could it be?
If I'm on the right track ?
It can't be the switch as the water is going ?
-
Any chance you're using a stop flow hoselock jobbie to connect to your hosereel...?
Might be worth unreeling out all the hose on your reel, see if you've got a kink?
Maybe also be worth changing the connector at the end of your hose reel hose (that connects to your pole)
Hopefully just a dud connector...
(Also i'm pretty sure the pressure switch should be by passed with the controller you use, have you still got it wired in?)
I'd be surprised if somethings stuck in your hose, it'd have to have gone through filter, pump, hose and spindle to get stuck in your reel hose
-
Any chance you're using a stop flow hoselock jobbie to connect to your hosereel...?
Might be worth unreeling out all the hose on your reel, see if you've got a kink?
Maybe also be worth changing the connector at the end of your hose reel hose (that connects to your pole)
Hopefully just a dud connector...
(Also i'm pretty sure the pressure switch should be by passed with the controller you use, have you still got it wired in?)
I'd be surprised if somethings stuck in your hose, it'd have to have gone through filter, pump, hose and spindle to get stuck in your reel hose
The reel is a good place to start as Don suggests. You may find the hose is badly compressed or has a kink. Also worth checking the reel valve.
Also sounds as the scr us working as the battery volts junps up.
-
Right I've been out to van
I called Williamson pumps had a half hour convasation ,
He was almost adamant that there is nothing wrong with the pump and encouraged me to fuslt find more
He told me to turn pump on and see if I can get 5 litres of water in 60s which I did get that exactly
He told me your fualt finding ends there and so there is nothing wrong with the pump
The battery seems fine I turn engine on it goes to like 13.5 or something when running it shows 12.8 so I don't think it's that .
I disconnected the filer I thought that was going to be the problem catching air it wasn't ,
And still up to 100psi it stop starts
Down to 70 I get a workable flow but slow and annoying
He said I should look at the hose
Now at one point while the pressure was building I disconnected the main pipe to let the water flow and flow it does at 5p per min, and a lot of steam or sort of smoke came out of the hose reel and the main connector as if something in the hose has blocked it not allowing it to flow at high speed?and at max setting it just piles up pressure ?
But how where do I start its 6m microbore what end could it be?
If I'm on the right track ?
It can't be the switch as the water is going ?
First of all it sounds like you are getting flow and pressure confused.
Just because your controller has flow settings between 1 and 100 it isn't anything to do with pressure. It's flow rate that has been divided into 100 segments. If you had no hose connected to the pump 100 should be pumping water out at 5 LPM. If you set it at 50 theoretically you should get around 2.5 LPM.
So you have calibrated the controller to work at 80. The flow should be continious at that FLOW but it will pulsate if you increased the FLOW to 100.
The higher the flow rate you want from the pump the higher its amp draw to achieve that. So lets use an example to illustrate.
Lets say your pump draws 4 amps at a flow of 60 and 5 amps at a flow of 80 and 6 amps at a flow of 90. You like a flow of 60. So when calibrating the controller you are setting the amp draw limit a little higher, say 5 amps. That will let you run at a flow of 60. But if you wanted to run at a flow of 70 then the controller will cut out as it will see the pump is drawing to much current for what you set it to do.
On another forum a poster posted this regarding microbore;
I understand it's going to restrict the flow, but when I went from 12mm I/d to 8mm I/d had no change what so ever. I drop another 2mm and this. 2mm surely can't make a difference?
Doug Atkinson posted this in reply
It does -------, makes at least 30% reduction in flow
Take a look at this;
http://www.flourmilling.co.uk/water.html
I realise its steel pipe but I see the flow rate difference between 6 or 8mm bore steel pipe is considerable. 6mm 0.022 as opposed to 0.056 liters per sec 8mm. So a 6mm tube will only allow fractionally less than 1/2 the volume of water at 4 bar. Our hose coiled up around a hose reel will probably reduce those figures a bit more.
Hot water will have a higher (or is it lower) viscosity (less dense) so will flow better through a smaller diamt hose. So most hot water users happily use microbore hose.
http://www.frca.co.uk/Documents/100308%20Physics%20of%20flowLR.pdf
Interesting read these 7 pages.
Look at the difference between Laminar flow and Turbulent flow. Once fluid in a tube reaches a certain speed it become turbulent. Once it becomes turbulent it requires 4 times the amount of pressure to double the flow rate. Fluid through hose coiled on hose reels won't be Laminar in flow but turbulent.
To calculate the area of a circle the formula is
A = π r2
A 6mm id hose is fractionally more than half the size of an 8mm hose.
A 3mm jet is a little more than twice the size of a 2mm jet.
A 1mm jet is about 1/4 of the size of a 2mm jet.
-
-
Right I've been out to van
I called Williamson pumps had a half hour convasation ,
He was almost adamant that there is nothing wrong with the pump and encouraged me to fuslt find more
He told me to turn pump on and see if I can get 5 litres of water in 60s which I did get that exactly
He told me your fualt finding ends there and so there is nothing wrong with the pump
The battery seems fine I turn engine on it goes to like 13.5 or something when running it shows 12.8 so I don't think it's that .
I disconnected the filer I thought that was going to be the problem catching air it wasn't ,
And still up to 100psi it stop starts
Down to 70 I get a workable flow but slow and annoying
He said I should look at the hose
Now at one point while the pressure was building I disconnected the main pipe to let the water flow and flow it does at 5p per min, and a lot of steam or sort of smoke came out of the hose reel and the main connector as if something in the hose has blocked it not allowing it to flow at high speed?and at max setting it just piles up pressure ?
But how where do I start its 6m microbore what end could it be?
If I'm on the right track ?
It can't be the switch as the water is going ?
First of all it sounds like you are getting flow and pressure confused.
Just because your controller has flow settings between 1 and 100 it isn't anything to do with pressure. It's flow rate that has been divided into 100 segments. If you had no hose connected to the pump 100 should be pumping water out at 5 LPM. If you set it at 50 theoretically you should get around 2.5 LPM.
So you have calibrated the controller to work at 80. The flow should be continious at that FLOW but it will pulsate if you increased the FLOW to 100.
The higher the flow rate you want from the pump the higher its amp draw to achieve that. So lets use an example to illustrate.
Lets say your pump draws 4 amps at a flow of 60 and 5 amps at a flow of 80 and 6 amps at a flow of 90. You like a flow of 60. So when calibrating the controller you are setting the amp draw limit a little higher, say 5 amps. That will let you run at a flow of 60. But if you wanted to run at a flow of 70 then the controller will cut out as it will see the pump is drawing to much current for what you set it to do.
On another forum a poster posted this regarding microbore;
I understand it's going to restrict the flow, but when I went from 12mm I/d to 8mm I/d had no change what so ever. I drop another 2mm and this. 2mm surely can't make a difference?
Doug Atkinson posted this in reply
It does -------, makes at least 30% reduction in flow
Take a look at this;
http://www.flourmilling.co.uk/water.html
I realise its steel pipe but I see the flow rate difference between 6 or 8mm bore steel pipe is considerable. 6mm 0.022 as opposed to 0.056 liters per sec 8mm. So a 6mm tube will only allow fractionally less than 1/2 the volume of water at 4 bar. Our hose coiled up around a hose reel will probably reduce those figures a bit more.
Hot water will have a higher (or is it lower) viscosity (less dense) so will flow better through a smaller diamt hose. So most hot water users happily use microbore hose.
http://www.frca.co.uk/Documents/100308%20Physics%20of%20flowLR.pdf
Interesting read these 7 pages.
Look at the difference between Laminar flow and Turbulent flow. Once fluid in a tube reaches a certain speed it become turbulent. Once it becomes turbulent it requires 4 times the amount of pressure to double the flow rate. Fluid through hose coiled on hose reels won't be Laminar in flow but turbulent.
To calculate the area of a circle the formula is
A = π r2
A 6mm id hose is fractionally more than half the size of an 8mm hose.
A 3mm jet is a little more than twice the size of a 2mm jet.
A 1mm jet is about 1/4 of the size of a 2mm jet.
-
Cracking answer re the flow and pressure Spruce, could not have put it better
-
Thing is it doesn't want to calibrate I've calibrated before you set it to 65 and nothing comes out sometimes it does but it doesn't fix it, also on the higher setting it properly cuts out I know what you are talking about with the pressure setting I've had pumps in the past stop start but keeping a certain pressure when it's higher now it literally stops then starts eventually
How about all that smoke in the hose reel that came out I've never seen that before
Hopefully we can get to the bottom of it
Spruce always very informative and everyone else still so very helpful!
-
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rcpsegKDt7w
I uploaded a video
There is an air sound coming from the connecting trolley area it also doesn't want to calibrate does the same thing
Maybe I should look at that connector ?
-
bump
so i connected another another 2 reels to the pump
and here is what happened, one of them is 6mm mini bore, and it was worse it has the usual window cleaning stop connector for the pole, basically no water, connected to the other which is 8mm and not stop connector the water did flow but when i put my thumb over it i felt the water hitting my thumb loosing some sort of pressure hitting as if its air but is isnt cos it kept on doing it,
-
i managed to connect the stop connector (yet to clip over) but it seems like the 8mm hose is working but both 6mm dont work (unless they are short) the battery isnt the problem on 8mm it goes like Niagara falls
-
From the video you posted, I believe the 'pressure' calibration in the controller is causing the pulsing. Even if it is set as high as it will go you will still have pulsing.
I wouldn't be a bit surprised if you discovered you got the same result if you totally bypassed the controller. The pumps pressure switch would cut out and cut back in again - pulsing.
A pump delivering water through 6mm microbore bore hose can only pump so much water. If the water was hot you would get more though. The very fact that 8mm works is exactly what that poster was complaining about on the other forum. He couldn't understand why he could work at full flow using minibore but couldn't using microbore. The answer is that 6mm microbore is half the size of 8mm and can only handle a limited amount of water.
-
Hi spruce
But why has it worked with mini bore for ages and all of a sudden it doesn't like it
You are saying it's the switch controller but I'll likley have the pump pulsing anyway?
I'm about to properly connect the 8m soon I'm guessing it will work
But this is all very wierd
-
Hi spruce
But why has it worked with mini bore for ages and all of a sudden it doesn't like it
You are saying it's the switch controller but I'll likley have the pump pulsing anyway?
I'm about to properly connect the 8m soon I'm guessing it will work
But this is all very wierd
I'm sure you can manually calibrate those controllers but I don't know how. If you know (instruction manual) then try raising the calibration from 65 to 75 and see what happens.
We use Varistreams and we generally reduce the calibration in the summer when the water is warmer and increase it in the winter when the water gets colder.
I thought you were having the pulsng issue when going from minibore to microbore. Sorry for misunderstanding.
-
Thank you for the video as they say a picture paints a 1000 words.
My first impression is the controller and pump are operating as I would expect. You have a calibration setting of 65 which is fine and within the ranges I would expect.
When the flow is tuned up to 99 the pump is working pretty close to maximum and creating a lot of pressure, Add in the restriction created by your hose line, Reel valve, connectors and the brush head Jets, and pressure builds up very fast. This fast pressure build up means the pump pressure switch is cutting in and stopping the pump, The controller is correctly reporting the Pump PS has operated.
Turning the flow down reduces the pressure in the system and the pump operates normally.
As Spruce has commented when calibration is set what we are doing is telling the controller the usual current draw and pressure the pump operates in open flow.
Now when flow is stopped the pump will try to overcome the restriction and in turn both [pressure and current increase. It is this change over and above the usual open flow draw the controllers see,s and dependant on the cal setting the control will DE the pump within 1/2 to a couple seconds. (The higher the calibration setting the slower the control will DE the pump)
High calibration combined with a high flow rate (in this case 99) means that pressure builds up very fast and because of the higher cal setting rather than the controller dead ending the pump it is the pump PS that is stopping flow.
The cycling of flow is being caused by the pressure switch opening and closing. Pressure builds and the pump stops. Pressure drops below the PS threshold and flow restarts. Because of the pressure dynamics of the hose line flow does not stop completely but cycles as you see in the video. In effect the hose is expanding and contracting to give the spurts of water.
It is worth mentioning that a 6mm ID hose will create more of a restriction than a 8mm ID hose. In effect the water has less space to flow in. As such a 6mm ID hose will create higher back pressure than a 8mm ID. With the pump running close to maximum it is trying to push 5 LPM of water through the hose. The hose itself will allow some of the water to flow BUT once the hose reaches its maximum expansion it will actually reduce how much water can flow. This means some of the water is pushed back towards the pump (back pressure ) A point can be reached where the back pressure is equal to the flow toward the brush and flow will stop Or as in your case the pump pressure switch activates.
To give efficient flow a balance is being sort between the water the pump is pushing into the hose and the natural restrictions of the hose. Every system is slightly different and changing a component (Hose ID) will have an impact on this balance
What this means for your system is a flow rate up to 60 - 65 and calibration of 65 is about right and this will give you around 1.5 LPM to 2 LPM at the brush.
In Conclusion
Turning the flow rate to 99 actually reduces the LPM rate significantly because of the back pressure the system creates.
Increasing the ID of the jets and using 8mm will reduce back pressure and give higher flow rate through the system . An upshot of reduced back pressure is both Calibration and flow rates will be lower for the same/higher flow. Be aware though that due to the pressure dynamics you will never get 5 LPM at the brush.
-
Have you tried 'auto calibrating' on that controller rather than just setting your own, to see if that helps?
Turn your flow to 99 if thats your chosen flow rate
Press and hold the far left and far right buttons at the same time until 'cal' shows up
Scroll all the way down until you see 'aut'
Press enter (far right button)
Wait and see what number it settles on (takes 20seconds or so)
Press enter again
Do all that with water running at chosen flow rate, pole extended a bit and a bit of pole hose unreeled
Sorry if i'm telling you to try something you already have!!
Spruce, thats one heck of an explanation on flow & pressure!!! Alot went totally past me though if i'm honest!!!
-
Have you tried 'auto calibrating' on that controller rather than just setting your own, to see if that helps?
Turn your flow to 99 if thats your chosen flow rate
Press and hold the far left and far right buttons at the same time until 'cal' shows up
Scroll all the way down until you see 'aut'
Press enter (far right button)
Wait and see what number it settles on (takes 20seconds or so)
Press enter again
Do all that with water running at chosen flow rate, pole extended a bit and a bit of pole hose unreeled
Sorry if i'm telling you to try something you already have!!
Spruce, thats one heck of an explanation on flow & pressure!!! Alot went totally past me though if i'm honest!!!
Hi Don,
He has auto calibrated it already. Ian is pointing out that Crystal-clear is asking more from the system than it can deliver using 6mm hose. The calibration must be working correctly as the pump's mechanical pressure switch is kicking in.
(It also could mean to me that the pumps mechanical screw adjuster has been altered and so the pressure switch is cutting in at a lower pressure than factory set - 100psi. The first Shurflo pump we had was a 65psi pump and that was good enough for 1/2" hose and 3 mm jets. But Ian has said the 65 calibration setting is right, so everything regarding pump and controller is fine.)
The relationship between pressure and flow is difficult for some people to understand. And that's OK because there is other stuff they find easy to understand that baffles me.
Selling air compressors and air tools was never easy as customers usually had no grasp of the difference between air pressure and volume (CFM). So part of the sell was to explain the difference so they clearly understood it. But we often experienced a customer buy from a competitor because the small compressor he bought translated into a cheaper price and lower financial outlay. They soon realised their mistake.
-
Hi spruce
But why has it worked with mini bore for ages and all of a sudden it doesn't like it
You are saying it's the switch controller but I'll likley have the pump pulsing anyway?
I'm about to properly connect the 8m soon I'm guessing it will work
But this is all very wierd
It would be interesting for you to connect your 6mm microbore hose reel up to the garden tap and see what the free flow of water is at the end of the hose reel. Then do the same with the 8mm.
You will find the water hardly dribbles out of the 6mm and is slightly better with the 8mm. If you had 100m of 1/2" the water flow would be much better.
This is a telling experiement as the tap pressure remains constant and there will be no pulsing of water.
Why has it worked before and now it doesn't? Something must have changed.
As has been said before, unreel the hose completely and then see if this changes the situation. I fitting new hose to my reel and I had no end of trouble with it. It would expand under pressure but would eventually become loose on the drum. Winding the hose back on the reel caused the hose to kink and restricted the flow.
Someone else experienced a damaged section which twisted and reduced the flow.
We also experienced a faulty Hoselok stop connector. It suddenly created grief about 6 months after fitting. It gave the same symptoms as a flat leisure battery, but running the van's engine didn't help the flow. So I presumed the split charge relay wasn't working. I drove home and it took an hour before I isolated the problem.
8mm hose is generally problem free for flows of around 2 LPM or fractionally more. If water isn't getting through then there is an obstruction somewhere between the pump and the brush jets.
-
Some very technical responces
Updating Well I found an old 8m hose after I put on the stop connector it starting doing the same stop start problem I was devastated , then I went to CAL 60 and it's been working fine but I'm keeping it at this setting as I'm scared to change anything In case it stops starts again
In simple terms is there anything wrong with the pump?
Remember it's been working fine for ages on that hose
-
Are your hoselock connections on reel good as I found when they wear they cause pressure and flow problems, new connections click in better where as a worn one will push out a bit hense causing problems, hope that makes sense lol