Clean It Up
UK Window Cleaning Forum => Window Cleaning Forum => Topic started by: AuRavelling79 on April 15, 2016, 06:08:58 pm
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I've still got an RO-man type 300gpd which is on its limit to feed Dan the Man and me a total of about 3000 litres per week (that's "pure" not "pure" plus waste.) even when running 24/7.
What should I replace it with?
I see on Gardiners site a 500gpd fat single membrane which is £35 for the housing and £98 for the membrane. (plus VAT) Anyone use one? Could I get that and just expand my 300gpd .
Or should I go for something else completely. I think I would like something that produces 4000L of pure in a week to give us some spare capacity.
Thoughts please?
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I would go for this one , the carbon /sediment filter last for 350000 litres of water and it will more than keep up with what you need
.https://www.grippatank.co.uk/ez-pure-commercial-ro-axeon-hf5-kit1
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can you not just upgrade your membranes to 150gpd ones instead of 100gpd membranes
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I've got a second hand 450gpd R.O for sale with and aquatec 8800 booster pump for sale if you're interested mr Gold?
It'll probably want new membranes though as its been sat around for a bit though
Or
Add another membrane to make yours a 450gpd and add a booster (if you haven't got one
Or
Just maybe bite the bullet and get a 40/40 (maybe go halves with Dan the Man?)
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I've still got an RO-man type 300gpd which is on its limit to feed Dan the Man and me a total of about 3000 litres per week (that's "pure" not "pure" plus waste.) even when running 24/7.
What should I replace it with?
I see on Gardiners site a 500gpd fat single membrane which is £35 for the housing and £98 for the membrane. (plus VAT) Anyone use one? Could I get that and just expand my 300gpd .
Or should I go for something else completely. I think I would like something that produces 4000L of pure in a week to give us some spare capacity.
Thoughts please?
I like using a 4040 with a booster pump. It's overkill but if necessary (you know that horrible moment when you realise on Sunday afternoon that you've cocked up) I can make 600 litres of pure in three hours. I get the feeling that it's never under stress and the TDS hasn't moved a jot in three years (I flush for twenty minutes every six months). The problem is the cost to set it up - you can go HF4 with a booster (quite a bit cheaper than an HF5) but it's still steep. I run at 2 waste to 1 pure so it probably helps to make sure that water costs aren't exorbitant.
Armed with a DI canister full of acid-washed charcoal as the sole incoming filter (from Gaps water) and a couple of DI vessels full of resin, I do a refill every year and forget it completely the rest of the time.
As ever, you have to pay for it but it's a system that you can ignore.
Vin
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@Robert Mitchell
That HF5 kit 1 at £455 - is it everything I need to connect and go?
@Vin
The HF4 - how much is that as a complete set up? You say it is cheaper than a HF 5? The one that Robert linked to is £455 plus VAT which seems fine to me.
What's the difference?
Sorry I need it spelling out in words of one syllable when it comes to technical stuff.
Thanks to everyone for your replies so far,
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can you not just upgrade your membranes to 150gpd ones instead of 100gpd membranes
I upgraded mine in the past this way. Found the 150gpd ones never produced as low tds as the 100gpd membranes atleast with the water pressure I had. Meant I then needed to run a booster pump.
Looking back I wish I had just got the 4040 and be done with it. I probs use the same pure as you. Ended up costing little more than upgrading the small system and is only on a few nights a week.
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I bought this one a while back Gold -
http://www.daqua.co.uk/ro_systems.htm
(Second one down)
Slightly cheaper than the one posted above, reputable seller, and its everything you need to go (bar a D.I vessel)
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@Robert Mitchell
That HF5 kit 1 at £455 - is it everything I need to connect and go?
@Vin
The HF4 - how much is that as a complete set up? You say it is cheaper than a HF 5? The one that Robert linked to is £455 plus VAT which seems fine to me.
What's the difference?
Sorry I need it spelling out in words of one syllable when it comes to technical stuff.
Thanks to everyone for your replies so far,
The whole caboodle from Gaps comes in at £909. Then another £250 for a Clarke CBM240E booster (buy it when they are doing their "VAT free" promotion).
What it doesn't include is the piping or the inline TDS meter. I've now managed to source all the parts to use only standard 15mm John Guest pipe for everything (bar about 150mm of 1/2" for the inline TDS meter - though I may have solved even that bit in the past few days; not tested yet but may work).
That's good for, as I said, 200 litres an hour and going from input 300TDS to 7. One guy with the same setup gets down to 4, one down to 9. The booster pump pays for itself in resin in no time.
Vin
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Yes I went the 4040 route nearly 3 years ago now and I'm glad I did.
I bought the single Fibredyne with HF4 4040 from Gaps water: http://www.gapswater.co.uk/acatalog/Fibredyne-Reverse-Osmosis-Kit--4040--4960.html#SID=539
I've found it works out quite good value for money as nearly 3 years on the membrane is still producing 008ppm before resin.
On my old 400gpd ro (2 x 200gpd membranes) I was needing new membranes at £80 a pop every 9-12 months and was costing me more in resin as couldn't get below 0015ppm despite using a booster pump.
So in the time I've had the RO I've found despite the initial purchase price it is cheaper to run than my older system.
But for the convenience of knowing that it can produce what I need within 2 hours it was worth it.
By the way the kit came with all the fittings and 1/2" JG tubing as far as I can recall but I did require a booster pump with the HF4 which I bought from Machine Mart.
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This is all very helpful guys thank you.
My tap pressure is 80 psi according to the gauge on my RO and has been for the last ten years (except when "Ourlittlest'un" is in the shower at he same time as "Our lass" has the washing machine running when it dips to 70psi!).
Do I need a booster pump and why?
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This is all very helpful guys thank you.
My tap pressure is 80 psi according to the gauge on my RO and has been for the last ten years (except when "Ourlittlest'un" is in the shower at the same time as "Our lass" has the washing machine running when it dips to 70psi!).
Do I need a booster pump and why? I haven't so far.
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This is all very helpful guys thank you.
My tap pressure is 80 psi according to the gauge on my RO and has been for the last ten years (except when "Ourlittlest'un" is in the shower at he same time as "Our lass" has the washing machine running when it dips to 70psi!).
Do I need a booster pump and why?
Maybe not.
I run my ro at 100 psi from booster but 80 psi may well be sufficient?
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If you are happy with your ro you could just buy a bigger static tank.
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If you are happy with your ro you could just buy a bigger static tank.
I've got 2700 litres of static storage but the RO just seems to slow to a trickle within a few months and the ppm rises from about 10 at the start up to about 25 when I buy new membranes at £100 a set. Seems I could reduce my running costs.
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I have a 300gpd triple membrane ro. My tap pressure is around 55psi. water goes in around 200ppm and product water is between 001 and 005. I do use a water softener and membranes last a long time.
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I have a 300gpd triple membrane ro. My tap pressure is around 55psi. water goes in around 200ppm and product water is between 001 and 005. I do use a water softener and membranes last a long time.
How do you mean - you use a water softener?
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The one from grippa is everything you need , first vessel is is carbon sediment and lasts 350000 liters , second is 21 inch ro and it comes with waste valve etc .
Just tap water in one end and out to your di vessel the other .
Will produce around 150 liters per hour .
Very easy to set up , all John guest fittings .
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http://www.purefreedom.co.uk/water-purification/reverse-osmosis/2400-gpd-high-volume-reverse-osmosis-system-40-membrane-40-hf4-with-large-booster-pump.html
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I have a 300gpd triple membrane ro. My tap pressure is around 55psi. water goes in around 200ppm and product water is between 001 and 005. I do use a water softener and membranes last a long time.
How do you mean - you use a water softener?
I have a static system in the garage and the water goes through a water softener (the type you would have in your house) before it goes through the pre fitler and ro.
Not saying it is the most cost effective way to produce pure water but it does make the membranes last.
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The one from grippa is everything you need , first vessel is is carbon sediment and lasts 350000 liters , second is 21 inch ro and it comes with waste valve etc .
Just tap water in one end and out to your di vessel the other .
Will produce around 150 liters per hour .
Very easy to set up , all John guest fittings .
Thanks again folks:
I think this one looks the right one for me. I like the "Very easy to set up ..." the "150L per hour" and the fact that the recommended inlet pressure is 50psi to 100 psi. I have emailed grippatank some more damnfool specific questions and will report back how it all goes.
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If you've actually got 80psi mains pressure (I'd be chuffing surprised if you have) then get a HF4 membrane Gold
HF5 is a low pressure membrane, meaning it needs good flow over big pressure. Works well but TDS will usually be higher than the HF4
HF4 is high pressure membrane, need 60psi+ but cheaper to replace and will get lower TDS
The one I got from Daqua was the HF5 as I've got low mains pressure and am too tight to buy a booster pump :P
(That was plug in and go as well by the way, and cheaper than Grippa, although you cant go wrong with the Grippa R.O)
The 150litres per hour is dependant on variables, but you should get that with most 40/40's irrelevant of where you buy it from (the membranes are the same as long as you buy it from a 'main' supplier, its the bells and whistles that differ)
The Gate valve you get adjusts your waste/pure ratio and therefore adjusts your TDS and pure flow
If you fancy a trip over to Keynsham then myself or Frank have 4040's if you want a cheeky
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If you've actually got 80psi mains pressure (I'd be chuffing surprised if you have) then get a HF4 membrane Gold
HF5 is a low pressure membrane, meaning it needs good flow over big pressure. Works well but TDS will usually be higher than the HF4
HF4 is high pressure membrane, need 60psi+ but cheaper to replace and will get lower TDS
The one I got from Daqua was the HF5 as I've got low mains pressure and am too tight to buy a booster pump :P
(That was plug in and go as well by the way, and cheaper than Grippa, although you cant go wrong with the Grippa R.O)
The 150litres per hour is dependant on variables, but you should get that with most 40/40's irrelevant of where you buy it from (the membranes are the same as long as you buy it from a 'main' supplier, its the bells and whistles that differ)
The Gate valve you get adjusts your waste/pure ratio and therefore adjusts your TDS and pure flow
If you fancy a trip over to Keynsham then myself or Frank have 4040's if you want a cheeky
Well I'm going by the gauge on the side of my R/O ...
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The problem with that is you'll be getting a pressure reading after the water has pushed through 1/4" tubing, filters and flow restrictor (maybe)
Is 80psi what you get when your R.O is flushing, or producing?
(Sorry, didnt mean to come across as saying your lying, just 80psi is massive mains pressure l! The norm is 30-50)
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The problem with that is you'll be getting a pressure reading after the water has pushed through 1/4" tubing, filters and flow restrictor (maybe)
Is 80psi what you get when your R.O is flushing, or producing?
(Sorry, didnt mean to come across as saying your lying, just 80psi is massive mains pressure l! The norm is 30-50)
No, I didn't take it that way at all. The 80psi is when it's producing and you are quite right it is measured at the entry point of the RO so the water has been reduced to quarter inch pipe but it is before the filters and restrictors.
When I stick my pole straight on my tap to do my conny roof the pressure seems about the same as my van pump.
You've got me worried now ... ;D
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I've just gone on Bristol Water's website and they say that the minimum they provide pressure wise from a downstairs tap would fill a 4.5L (1 gallon) container in 30 seconds. They say there is no maximum specified.
I've just tested ours and it gives 4.5 litres in 15 seconds. So that's twice the minimum.
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Theres a difference between water flow(amount of water per time period) and pressure (the force the water moves)
Stick a hose pipe on your out door tap
Turn it on full whack and water flows out
Pinch the end and the water then jets out
Same amount of water leaving the tap, different pressure...
I feel I've got into unintentional tiff here, was just trying to help :-[ ;D
I turned on my R.O on flush the other week and my water pressure was higher than normal
'Great' i'm thinking, better pressure!
Turns out I'd accidentally put a kink in my waste pipe which was creating back pressure, which is a whole other subject!!! >:(
(Added after - missedyour first post, only read the second! Glad I'm not coming accross as arguing!! By the sounds of it, you've got decent pressure, maybe not 80psi but I reckon the HF4 would still be better for you in the long run if the pressure is as good as you think) :)
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Thanks Don Kee - I'm not arguing at all - I'm taking it all in and am very grateful for your (and every one else's help).
Thanks.
Some thinking to do.
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I bought this one a while back Gold -
http://www.daqua.co.uk/ro_systems.htm
(Second one down)
Slightly cheaper than the one posted above, reputable seller, and its everything you need to go (bar a D.I vessel)
The one i linked to is a 4021 rather than a 4040 and has a second 4021 housing for the carbon filter so less filter changes than the 2 10 inch housings ......in fact the capacity of the carbon/sediment filter would be enough for my whole years worth of water , i am only doing about 3 days a week though .
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https://www.grippatank.co.uk/ez-pure-single-use-sediment-carbon-insert
The link above is to the carbon /sediment filter from grippa with a life of 350000 litres . £41 including vat
The link below is the 10inch fibredyne with a life of 37500 litres. £14.40 including vat you would need 9.33 of these to get the same capacity at a cost of £134.40 ......quite a saving !
http://gardinerpolesystems.co.uk/all-products/pure-water-systems/water-treatment/sediment-carbon-filters/fibredyne-cfb-plus-sediment-carbon-pre-filter-10.html
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https://www.grippatank.co.uk/ez-pure-single-use-sediment-carbon-insert
The link above is to the carbon /sediment filter from grippa with a life of 350000 litres . £41 including vat
The link below is the 10inch fibredyne with a life of 37500 litres. £14.40 including vat you would need 9.33 of these to get the same capacity at a cost of £134.40 ......quite a saving !
http://gardinerpolesystems.co.uk/all-products/pure-water-systems/water-treatment/sediment-carbon-filters/fibredyne-cfb-plus-sediment-carbon-pre-filter-10.html
Yeah but.......the EZ filter is recommended to be changed at 350000 litres OR every 6 months (whichever is sooner).
But if you use a single 10" Fibredyne filter at around £15 inc vat a pop you could change the filter every 3 months which would work out less than £60 per annum.
Just sayin'.......
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https://www.grippatank.co.uk/ez-pure-single-use-sediment-carbon-insert
The link above is to the carbon /sediment filter from grippa with a life of 350000 litres . £41 including vat
The link below is the 10inch fibredyne with a life of 37500 litres. £14.40 including vat you would need 9.33 of these to get the same capacity at a cost of £134.40 ......quite a saving !
http://gardinerpolesystems.co.uk/all-products/pure-water-systems/water-treatment/sediment-carbon-filters/fibredyne-cfb-plus-sediment-carbon-pre-filter-10.html
Yeah but.......the EZ filter is recommended to be changed at 350000 litres OR every 6 months (whichever is sooner).
But if you use a single 10" Fibredyne filter at around £15 inc vat a pop you could change the filter every 3 months which would work out less than £60 per annum.
Just sayin'.......
yes you could , for me its more that i cant be arsed changing the filters as often .......im guessing the 6monthly change is for it getting blocked with sediment from your water so as long as i still get good pressure after the carbon/sediment filter i will leave it in for the year.