Clean It Up
UK Window Cleaning Forum => Window Cleaning Forum => Topic started by: Dazzler3370 on January 31, 2015, 10:30:32 am
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After nearly my first year on the windows I've decided I would like some warmer water to work with through the colder months mainly down to the pole hose stiffening up and just making life a bit easier. My thoughts are that a thermostat would be a cost saving option.
I've got an upright 500Ltr tank with a elongated baffle running down the middle of the tank. Would it be safe enough to fit a thermostat at the bottom of the tank between the bottom of the baffle and the bottom of the tank as long as the prongs don't touch the plastic. Or do I need a minimum clearance from the plastic, as it might melt....??
Cheers Dazzler
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Yes you'll be fine if the element is NOT in direct contact with the centre baffle, try to give as much clear space around the heater as you can as it will heat the water better.
Elements come in different lengths so an 11 inch wouldn't reach the centre baffle
Darran
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A thermostat only monitors temperature and can switch on a device (heater) if the temperature drops below what its set on. It usually switches off a degree or 2 above that setting.
Do you mean a water heating element? (Darran got there first). If you do then this has been discussed on here many times. A search will help you. Mark Munro also has a video on youtube about it.
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This is my 500ltr tank.
(http://www.cleanitup.co.uk/smf/1422701103_DSC01760.JPG)
(http://www.cleanitup.co.uk/smf/1422701115_DSC01758.JPG)
(http://www.cleanitup.co.uk/smf/1422701127_DSC01759.JPG)
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I assume by thermostat you mean immersion element?
(http://www.cleanitup.co.uk/smf/1422701276_DSC01756.JPG)
(http://www.cleanitup.co.uk/smf/1422701326_DSC01757.JPG)
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Cheers gents :)
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This is my 500ltr tank.
(http://www.cleanitup.co.uk/smf/1422701103_DSC01760.JPG)
(http://www.cleanitup.co.uk/smf/1422701115_DSC01758.JPG)
(http://www.cleanitup.co.uk/smf/1422701127_DSC01759.JPG)
That looks pretty neat or as the Americans say, awesome!
Dazzlers needs to be aware that this draws a heavy current load so he should make sure his electrics and extension lead can cope with it.
According to the Maths a 3000 watt element will draw a full 13+ amps so should really be on a dedicated circuit with a proper couplers to suit.
He also needs to consider the cost of electricity. Running a current like this for 3 or 4 hours will quickly add up on the electric bill.
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£1.20 pence to heat water to 45 degrees you can use heat proof cable and an extension lead that has a cut out all so put immersion on timer for 4 hours
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Artic 16 amp cable direct to 16 amp dedicated rcd or via 16 amp timer to rcd tool station do all the parts
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Artic 16 amp cable direct to 16 amp dedicated rcd or via 16 amp timer to rcd tool station do all the parts
Bang on!!
Please, Please don't attempt to run a 3KW immersion element via normal 13 amp plugs/cable/sockets as you risk burning your house down- trust me, I very nearly did just that!!
All the 16 amp gear is readily available at very little cost. I have an external 16 amp socket on the wall outside where I back my van up to. This socket is wired to the main consumer unit inside on it's own, dedicated 16 amp breaker via a 16 amp timer. I simply then just use a 16 amp extension cable to run from this outside socket into the van- as my immersion element cable has a 16 amp plug on the end of it. Set the timer then indoors & that's it.
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Your all nuts. They are for immersion heaters not plastic water tanks lmao. Your not having a bath. It just needs airing not boiling. Are you that soft you need hot water lol
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Your all nuts. They are for immersion heaters not plastic water tanks lmao. Your not having a bath. It just needs airing not boiling. Are you that soft you need hot water lol
You mean they are for domestic copper water cylinders? As the immersion element is what would fit to these. As for plastic water tanks- this is what the brass "mechanical flange" is utilised for- to make a solid, brass to brass connection situ as per domestic tank. As for hot water- the user has total control of exactly how hot the water will get- from "just aired" to hot. This is controlled via two methods- the built-in thermostat on the element itself or by the user controlling/defining the length of time the element is actually active for- via the timer facility. The benefits are huge as along with benefits of having hot/warm water the tank also acts as a van heater- keeping all your van & equipment frost free & toastie! So, who's LMAO now? ;D
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Your all nuts. They are for immersion heaters not plastic water tanks lmao. Your not having a bath. It just needs airing not boiling. Are you that soft you need hot water lol
You mean they are for domestic copper water cylinders? As the immersion element is what would fit to these. As for plastic water tanks- this is what the brass "mechanical flange" is utilised for- to make a solid, brass to brass connection situ as per domestic tank. As for hot water- the user has total control of exactly how hot the water will get- from "just aired" to hot. This is controlled via two methods- the built-in thermostat on the element itself or by the user controlling/defining the length of time the element is actually active for- via the timer facility. The benefits are huge as along with benefits of having hot/warm water the tank also acts as a van heater- keeping all your van & equipment frost free & toastie! So, who's LMAO now? ;D
Me when your van sets fire ;) don't want your electric bill either
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Your all nuts. They are for immersion heaters not plastic water tanks lmao. Your not having a bath. It just needs airing not boiling. Are you that soft you need hot water lol
You mean they are for domestic copper water cylinders? As the immersion element is what would fit to these. As for plastic water tanks- this is what the brass "mechanical flange" is utilised for- to make a solid, brass to brass connection situ as per domestic tank. As for hot water- the user has total control of exactly how hot the water will get- from "just aired" to hot. This is controlled via two methods- the built-in thermostat on the element itself or by the user controlling/defining the length of time the element is actually active for- via the timer facility. The benefits are huge as along with benefits of having hot/warm water the tank also acts as a van heater- keeping all your van & equipment frost free & toastie! So, who's LMAO now? ;D
Me when your van sets fire ;) don't want your electric bill either
That's the beauty of this, after one use the whole thing has paid for itself & using the correct grade equipment (16 amp) into a dedicated breaker within the consumer unit- there is no risk of fire over & above any other household electrical item you could wish to name. If it cost you £80 in electricity over the whole winter, it's a very small price to pay to have no frozen equipment, not to have to bring it all in at night, be ready to work first thing in the morning & have lovely, warm, supple hoses all day. ;) Add to that, none of the issues of hot water boilers either- if you can counter that with any negatives then you really need to reassess your whole way of thinking!!
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Always use artic flex cable it's designed for the job.
Water heating element is designed to re, well heat water ;)
Do you use hot water Duncan ??
Darran
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out of interest
how long approximately does the water in a 500 L tank stay warm for when the day temp is no more than 2 or 3 degrees ?
does anybody insulate their tank to improve its working hours ?
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out of interest
how long approximately does the water in a 500 L tank stay warm for when the day temp is no more than 2 or 3 degrees ?
does anybody insulate their tank to improve its working hours ?
All day & no I don't insulate the tank by particular reason of it also acting as a van heater. ;)
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out of interest
how long approximately does the water in a 500 L tank stay warm for when the day temp is no more than 2 or 3 degrees ?
does anybody insulate their tank to improve its working hours ?
All day & no I don't insulate the tank by particular reason of it also acting as a van heater. ;)
I am amazed. I run a hot bath and its cold in 5 mins. That sin a warm house. Yes its open to the elements, but those elements are warm. A van will be in very cold temps. I would have thought it would be only aired after 2 hours
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out of interest
how long approximately does the water in a 500 L tank stay warm for when the day temp is no more than 2 or 3 degrees ?
does anybody insulate their tank to improve its working hours ?
All day & no I don't insulate the tank by particular reason of it also acting as a van heater. ;)
Thanks that's good to know :)
I use cold water, cannot heat my van overnight or fit an immersion due to being street parked and living in a flat. and I never liked the idea of a gas heater. Luckily I live on south coast so its not really such an issue, just drain pump and hoses of a night. When I move to a house I may consider the immersion route ;)
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out of interest
how long approximately does the water in a 500 L tank stay warm for when the day temp is no more than 2 or 3 degrees ?
does anybody insulate their tank to improve its working hours ?
All day & no I don't insulate the tank by particular reason of it also acting as a van heater. ;)
I am amazed. I run a hot bath and its cold in 5 mins. That sin a warm house. Yes its open to the elements, but those elements are warm. A van will be in very cold temps. I would have thought it would be only aired after 2 hours
So was I to be honest. Wydale plastic tanks are quite thick, approx 1/4" if I recall. At the end of the day the water is still amazingly very warm.
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I'll back that up, normally the water is 35 degrees at 8 am and what's left by 3 pm is still just over 20 degrees - tank not insulated but unlike a bath is still enclosed - water takes a long time to cool down when inside a container and we are talking a decent volume of the stuff.
Immersions are a great way to heat your tank, this week I finished upgrading the vans from the portable travel ones to a permanent fixed version.
So what are you using Duncan ????
Darran
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Your all nuts. They are for immersion heaters not plastic water tanks lmao. Your not having a bath. It just needs airing not boiling. Are you that soft you need hot water lol
You mean they are for domestic copper water cylinders? As the immersion element is what would fit to these. As for plastic water tanks- this is what the brass "mechanical flange" is utilised for- to make a solid, brass to brass connection situ as per domestic tank. As for hot water- the user has total control of exactly how hot the water will get- from "just aired" to hot. This is controlled via two methods- the built-in thermostat on the element itself or by the user controlling/defining the length of time the element is actually active for- via the timer facility. The benefits are huge as along with benefits of having hot/warm water the tank also acts as a van heater- keeping all your van & equipment frost free & toastie! So, who's LMAO now? ;D
Me when your van sets fire ;) don't want your electric bill either
That's the beauty of this, after one use the whole thing has paid for itself & using the correct grade equipment (16 amp) into a dedicated breaker within the consumer unit- there is no risk of fire over & above any other household electrical item you could wish to name. If it cost you £80 in electricity over the whole winter, it's a very small price to pay to have no frozen equipment, not to have to bring it all in at night, be ready to work first thing in the morning & have lovely, warm, supple hoses all day. ;) Add to that, none of the issues of hot water boilers either- if you can counter that with any negatives then you really need to reassess your whole way of thinking!!
I've been doing this for 6 years it works for me
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Artic 16 amp cable direct to 16 amp dedicated rcd or via 16 amp timer to rcd tool station do all the parts
Bang on!!
Please, Please don't attempt to run a 3KW immersion element via normal 13 amp plugs/cable/sockets as you risk burning your house down- trust me, I very nearly did just that!!
All the 16 amp gear is readily available at very little cost. I have an external 16 amp socket on the wall outside where I back my van up to. This socket is wired to the main consumer unit inside on it's own, dedicated 16 amp breaker via a 16 amp timer. I simply then just use a 16 amp extension cable to run from this outside socket into the van- as my immersion element cable has a 16 amp plug on the end of it. Set the timer then indoors & that's it.
Thanks for all the info on the 16 amp gear, that's me got my electrics done in my garage today.
Just waiting on the cage being made for my van tank now, then I will be fitting the immersion heater into my tank, although this will be slightly trickier than your one as I have a 750 litre upright and I want to get the 27" element under the baffles, if I can't manage this I will have to get the smaller 14" element and have it higher up in the tank and running between the baffles.
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Not the same subject i know but......
If i bought a corwoods gas heater and let it loop back to the tank (400ltr upright) on the highest temp for half an hour or so, would the overall temp of the water be warm ??
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Got an Ionics tank which is well and truly insulated by me, only needs a little heat to stay warm all day long, doesn't lose much noticeable heat until it gets to the hose laying on the ground outside on the floor
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Bump for chumbucket
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Bump for chumbucket
What do you want to know?
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Not the same subject i know but......
If i bought a corwoods gas heater and let it loop back to the tank (400ltr upright) on the highest temp for half an hour or so, would the overall temp of the water be warm ??
I wouldn't bother with that mate, you might as well go the immersion route, less hassle and cheaper in the long run.
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Artic 16 amp cable direct to 16 amp dedicated rcd or via 16 amp timer to rcd tool station do all the parts
Bang on!!
Please, Please don't attempt to run a 3KW immersion element via normal 13 amp plugs/cable/sockets as you risk burning your house down- trust me, I very nearly did just that!!
All the 16 amp gear is readily available at very little cost. I have an external 16 amp socket on the wall outside where I back my van up to. This socket is wired to the main consumer unit inside on it's own, dedicated 16 amp breaker via a 16 amp timer. I simply then just use a 16 amp extension cable to run from this outside socket into the van- as my immersion element cable has a 16 amp plug on the end of it. Set the timer then indoors & that's it.
Thanks for all the info on the 16 amp gear, that's me got my electrics done in my garage today.
Just waiting on the cage being made for my van tank now, then I will be fitting the immersion heater into my tank, although this will be slightly trickier than your one as I have a 750 litre upright and I want to get the 27" element under the baffles, if I can't manage this I will have to get the smaller 14" element and have it higher up in the tank and running between the baffles.
Could you stick one in either side?
Give you an extra inch too.
Every little helps ;)