Clean It Up
UK Window Cleaning Forum => Window Cleaning Forum => Topic started by: Jakey boy on December 11, 2014, 02:34:45 pm
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Hi guys, I run a di in my van, reason for is 'peice of mind' I'm thinking of taking it out now, running pure water into tank and not worrying about the di In the van. Obviously I'll use the di after the ro, and it'll be 100% pure going into the van tank,
What do you guys do? I've had it in the van before the hose reel so it's as pure as can be just before it gets to the brush! Not sure if this is necessary?
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Reasons for...
You know exactly what your tds is going to be over the complete days work.
Don't have to carry the DI bottle in the van.
Reasons against...
When the R.O. starts to produce pure the TDS takes time to come down so this will shorten the lifespan of your resin.
If your R.O. causes problems and doesn't reduce the TDS then you will waste your resin as well.
Chance of waste water running into the resin when flushing.
This ones only my opinion but I believe that an R.O. membrane lasts longer and works better if there is no back pressure
at the pure outlet having this connected to an DI chamber stop this free flow to an extent.
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Interesting points, I'm just thinking it'll free up space, improve battery life as pump isn't having to force water through resin, and less likely to have leaks as less connections...
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I really don`t understand a di in the van a mate of mine has it this way and its always leaking. AS above said, killing your battery, it just makes sense to have it static with the RO and tank.
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I really don`t understand a di in the van a mate of mine has it this way and its always leaking. AS above said, killing your battery, it just makes sense to have it static with the RO and tank.
Yeah I'm thinking your right... I may well take it out this weekend...
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I have to say I've never had any orobs from either of my di's leaking but I'd like the room they take however for me I full tank straight from tap so I imagine it would burn through resin quicker from tap rather than just 12v pump pushing it through also if I'm out and about and run out of water I can fill up anywhere knowing it will be pure before it comes out!
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I have to say I've never had any orobs from either of my di's leaking but I'd like the room they take however for me I full tank straight from tap so I imagine it would burn through resin quicker from tap rather than just 12v pump pushing it through also if I'm out and about and run out of water I can fill up anywhere knowing it will be pure before it comes out!
Doesn't benefit me as tds here is over 400, so a ro is always needed, but yeah if all you need is a di, may as well leave them In van...
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Why would it leak, mines been this way from day one and has never leaked yet.
I have both the R.O. and the D.I. in the van and it makes perfect sense, just connect to the tap
at the end of the day and leave it.
Don't have to have an extra storage area or have to pump water from one tank to another.
Different if I had more than one van on the road.
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It doesn't leak, but there's more potential for leaks
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I've been window cleaning 9 years and I've never used a DI vessel in the van - I've never had any problems with high TDS at the brush end... It comes out of the static tank at 000 and hits the window at 000.
In my mind having a DI vessel in the van just takes up space and gives you more connections to worry about.
Andy
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In your situation there isn't really anything to be gained by having the DI on the van. However, in a DI only system it's the opposite- there is everything to be gained but because you use an RO anyway there's little point explaining why.
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In your situation there isn't really anything to be gained by having the DI on the van. However, in a DI only system it's the opposite- there is everything to be gained but because you use an RO anyway there's little point explaining why.
Yeah I can see your point, fair enough... I suppose with a DI only system you can just fill the van tank up with tap water.
Andy ;)
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Just taken the di out, thanks for opinions! From
Now on it'll go into the tank at 000 and that'll be that!
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Jakey boy are you putting water in from ro or straight from tap as you might want to turn the two flow down when filling tank straight from di and tap as I've been told that direct from the tap can burn through resin quicker if your just doing tap to di rather than using ro as well, whether this is true or not who knows?
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No i use a ro and di, tds is well over 400 here, so I'm now going to run ro then di into storage tank, then into van tank via transfer hose.
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What are the reasons for having a DI container sat in your van if you purify your water initially with an RO? What's that all about?
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What are the reasons for having a DI container sat in your van if you purify your water initially with an RO? What's that all about?
That's just how I was told to do it when I went wfp, the thinking is the ro brings the tds down then the di in the van polishes off before brush head, why? I've no idea, I'm now running pure water into tank after ro and di in shed....
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Right, here goes.
I run twin DI's after the pump and before the reel.
It never leaks.
My tds is low so I don't need an ro.
If you fill your tank up through your di the increased pressure and flow causes the resin to go off quicker hence why it's after the pump.
There is virtually no resistance for the pump so the battery doesn't run out quicker.
If you don't believe me try blowing through the inlet side if your di.
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Right, here goes.
I run twin DI's after the pump and before the reel.
It never leaks.
My tds is low so I don't need an ro.
If you fill your tank up through your di the increased pressure and flow causes the resin to go off quicker hence why it's after the pump.
There is virtually no resistance for the pump so the battery doesn't run out quicker.
If you don't believe me try blowing through the inlet side if your di.
That's my thinking as to taking the di out, more battery life... Also don't know why I was told to stick a di in the van when I'm using a ro anyway! Ah well. It's out the van now now my system now is RO>DI> ibc tank > van tank.
Beifre it was RO>ibc>van>DI after pump... Was pointless really...
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Right, here goes.
I run twin DI's after the pump and before the reel.
It never leaks.
My tds is low so I don't need an ro.
If you fill your tank up through your di the increased pressure and flow causes the resin to go off quicker hence why it's after the pump.
There is virtually no resistance for the pump so the battery doesn't run out quicker.
If you don't believe me try blowing through the inlet side
That's my thinking as to taking the di out, more battery life... Also don't know why I was told to stick a di in the van when I'm using a ro anyway! Ah well. It's out the van now now my system now is RO>DI> ibc tank > van
Beifre it was RO>ibc>van>DI after pump... Was pointless really...
Exactly how I'd do it in your situation but no it makes no difference to battery life
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I prefer to run DI in van than store DI water in tank and ill tell you why.
DI water stored for a period of time in a tank that is not sealed from the atmosphere doesn't stay in its pure state for long. On top of this, you are wasting resin up by purifying water that's just going to sit there and osmose back to an unpure state.
By using the DI system on demand from a tank, not only are you using your resin much more efficiently the DI water that is being produced is the highest quality it can possibly be as there is no time for the water to sit there and osmose with the atmosphere.
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So water in the tank will rise in tds if left?? Surely this would take a long long time?! Also, how can de ironised water re ironise?
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If the tank isn't sealed from the atmosphere (which it can't be as if it was 100% sealed the pump wouldn't be able to pump the water very well) the free ions in the air will react with the water and eventually pull up the tds as the ions would be attracted to the water making its purity less. I don't know how long it would take, but my point is to be 100% sure that your di water is as good as it can possibly be it's best to produce it on demand.
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So water in the tank will rise in tds if left?? Surely this would take a long long time?! Also, how can de ironised water re ironise?
The water has been filtered, for the tds to rise again you need to put back what has been taken out, with the small vent in the tank to let the pump flow it would take forever for the pollution in the air to get into the tank and cause a tds rise.
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So water in the tank will rise in tds if left?? Surely this would take a long long time?! Also, how can de ironised water re ironise?
The water has been filtered, for the tds to rise again you need to put back what has been taken out, with the small vent in the tank to let the pump flow it would take forever for the pollution in the air to get into the tank and cause a tds rise.
I tend to agree with this statement, and even if it did , it would not be enough to worry about.
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I filled a water butt up in the garden full of pure water, long story cut short I didn't need the water from there ( as I stored it in the garage in another container)
Anyways, when I eventually could be bothered emptying it, about a month later, I checked the tds - bearing in mind it was outside, the tds was still 000ppm , so in the back of your van , I should think it's a VERY long time b4 it rises to even 001ppm
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If the tank isn't sealed from the atmosphere (which it can't be as if it was 100% sealed the pump wouldn't be able to pump the water very well) the free ions in the air will react with the water and eventually pull up the tds as the ions would be attracted to the water making its purity less. I don't know how long it would take, but my point is to be 100% sure that your di water is as good as it can possibly be it's best to produce it on demand.
Could you please provide a link for this information - thx
Darran
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If you're happy doing it that way then that's all what counts.
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i have di out of my van and my water is allways 000 even if i fill my van tank an only use half in a day and then refill its allways 000 even if left 3 days its still 000, i think this pollution thing is a load of dung and wont affect us if u left it a month in there maby it would rase a bit but no way would it reach 010 tds not in a million years an we all no 010 will still clean spot free, i dont put di in van cos it takes the strain off my pump an battery , also one less thing to freeze in winter,also one less thing to leek water in van,also 1 less thing in van to save space, i slow fill my tank so it uses all the resin an dont wast any
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If the tank isn't sealed from the atmosphere (which it can't be as if it was 100% sealed the pump wouldn't be able to pump the water very well) the free ions in the air will react with the water and eventually pull up the tds as the ions would be attracted to the water making its purity less. I don't know how long it would take, but my point is to be 100% sure that your di water is as good as it can possibly be it's best to produce it on demand.
sorry marc this info is incorrect.
ive had purified water sitting in 25L barrels for over 6 months before now(DI only)and the tds was still 000.
on topic i purify straight into my tank(takes around an hour 500L,DI only)as ive always done it this way plus i dont want DI vessels taking up space in the van.
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My only concern would be water laying around a long time when the teperature is high enough to increase legionella to a level where water spray might cause a health problem - or even death. I've never verified this but 20 degrees for two weeks is meant to be able to achieve that.
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I have twin static DI units without RO and find that the resin produces 000 ppm for only about six weeks. If I then shake the two DI units the reading returns to 000 ppm. I carry a smaller, third DI unit on the truck to ensure 000 ppm and find that the constant movement of the vehicle optimizes the Resin Usage. I've tried running with and without the on board DI and the only thing I can say is that my pump runs at a much more constant rate and seems less prone to air bubbles due to the ' storage ' properties of the on board DI.
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If the tank isn't sealed from the atmosphere (which it can't be as if it was 100% sealed the pump wouldn't be able to pump the water very well) the free ions in the air will react with the water and eventually pull up the tds as the ions would be attracted to the water making its purity less. I don't know how long it would take, but my point is to be 100% sure that your di water is as good as it can possibly be it's best to produce it on demand.
sorry marc this info is incorrect.
ive had purified water sitting in 25L barrels for over 6 months before now(DI only)and the tds was still 000.
on topic i purify straight into my tank(takes around an hour 500L,DI only)as ive always done it this way plus i dont want DI vessels taking up space in the van.
Ah ok i stand corrected.
I was always led to believe otherwise.