Clean It Up
UK General Cleaning Forum => General Cleaning Forum => Topic started by: CleanClear on December 02, 2014, 08:41:47 pm
-
Allpumpsdirect have a range of 51 series Interpumps for sale. They're all the same price and seem just what i'm after for vehicle washing. They're all 150 bar, but then they range from 8 lpm up to 13 lpm. Now i run off a tap, which to be honest might even struggle to produce 8 lpm. If i was to get the 13 lpm pump and run off a tap would i do it any harm ?
-
Yeh, you will damage the pump. You don't wanna attached the hose from the tap to the pump. You suck from a tank that your tap will feed. So you wait for the tank to fill and have a lead start while the tap constantly fills the tank.
Watch this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_vGKqoa0-Wk
-
Ok thanks Blastaway. Guess i'll just get a AR 7/8 LPM pump.
-
Mike why can you not suck from a drum/tank? It would probably cost me/you about about £20 to make one for you to use
Danny
-
I could if i had to Dan, but running off the tap seems easier and fine so far. I'm just using the small 2200 PSI 7 LPM pumps. I've got access to more powerfull machines but to be honest even with the pumps i'm using i've took chrome off a grill and blasted a bit of stonechipped paintwork away. So i'm guessing the pumps are powerfull enough for what i'm doing. (its vehicle washing BTW). I'm open to suggestion, if someone tells me the greater flow rate will be better then i'm open to ideas to operate differently. But right now i'm literally just plugging the hose in the machine, tap on and away ya go ?
-
I could if i had to Dan, but running off the tap seems easier and fine so far. I'm just using the small 2200 PSI 7 LPM pumps. I've got access to more powerfull machines but to be honest even with the pumps i'm using i've took chrome off a grill and blasted a bit of stonechipped paintwork away. So i'm guessing the pumps are powerfull enough for what i'm doing. (its vehicle washing BTW). I'm open to suggestion, if someone tells me the greater flow rate will be better then i'm open to ideas to operate differently. But right now i'm literally just plugging the hose in the machine, tap on and away ya go ?
Iv never cleaned trucks so can't say that 7lpm is or isn't enough but going off any other type of surface iv cleaned id say that high pressure and flow rate together do the cleaning, and one without the other is pretty slow.
What other machine have you got access too?
I'm guessing with the right chems and a bit of dwell time that you could reduce the pressure quite a bit and virtually rinse off the surface with plenty of low pressure water
-
I've been using one of the chinese ones and its been fine, never missed a beat. I work it quite hard. I've got two sites i clean at now so am putting another washer on the other site. A Honda with a (i think) WS 102 Interpump. I'll check its LPM a bit later i've an idea its about 13 LPM. Thats just threw a spanner in the works for me, as im about to buy a new pump for another engine i have.
I suppose i've just got to make my mind up what way to go, 7/8 LPM pumps off the tap, or 13 LPM out of a drum. See if anyone might point me the right way.
Oh, also i used the above Honda and Interpump before off a tap, before i had considered the higher water demand, and i found it no better than the other one i have.
-
If you starve a pump of water for long periods then you create cavitation. Air in the pump. Ruins valves and seals. Best off sucking from a pump. But if your set up is working for you then thats fine. If you start running a decent pump, id advise sucking from a barrel.
-
Cavitation is not strictly air in the pump. Its the piston moving faster than the water flowing into the gap left by the piston (Cavity) which causes a vacuum. The noise is the water closing the vacuum and this causes shocks and a lack of lubrication in the cylinder. This is why we always use a positive feed on the (so called) suction side of the pump. Its this same reason Q suggest you have twin feeds on a 21ltr pump
-
I didnt know that. First thing ive learnt on here in ages ;D
-
Thats because thats the first non sarcastic reply I've given in ages :P
-
Thats because thats the first non sarcastic reply I've given in ages :P
Loosing your touch Carl? ;D ;D
-
Diabetic fit ;)
-
Interpump W140 , specs : 140 Bar, 12 LPM.
K3 Unloader valve : 100 bar.
Is that a correct setup ?
-
Interpump W140 , specs : 140 Bar, 12 LPM.
K3 Unloader valve : 100 bar.
Is that a correct setup ?
What do you think?... You have a pump producing 140 bar and an unloader that operates at 100 bar max.
-
Interpump W140 , specs : 140 Bar, 12 LPM.
K3 Unloader valve : 100 bar.
Is that a correct setup ?
What do you think?... You have a pump producing 140 bar and an unloader that operates at 100 bar max.
Hi Chris, i'm not being funny but i don't really think because i only have a limited grasp on how they work. Thats why i'm asking, the unit was actually assembled by someone from here who does it for a living. So i was hoping for an explanation if its not suitable or otherwise.
From my research i can fathom that the K series unloaders are "flow sensitive" unloaders. So it will be flow, or rather the lack of it that causes the unloader to unload and not pressure. There does not seem to be a gradual increase in working Bar for these unloaders, they jump from 100 Bar to 200 Bar. I'm pretty certain you cannot get a K series unloader specifically for 140 bar ?I've no idea why, and of course they are not operated on pressure but flow, so what is the Bar rating for? Is it just a safe working pressure for the unloader unit ? I've no idea. I'm just asking and trying to understand.
Are you familiar with Brevitt unloaders ?
-
This is the unloader you require k5.1 200bar (max)@11-16 lpm
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pressure-Washer-Jet-Wash-Genuine-Interpump-K5-1-Series-Unloader-Valve-/281279563192?pt=UK_Home_Garden_PowerTools_SM&hash=item417d9185b8
-
This is the unloader you require k5.1 200bar (max)@11-16 lpm
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pressure-Washer-Jet-Wash-Genuine-Interpump-K5-1-Series-Unloader-Valve-/281279563192?pt=UK_Home_Garden_PowerTools_SM&hash=item417d9185b8
Many thanks Chris. Am i right in guessing that the 100Bar K3 is just its safe working pressure ?
-
I would guess so ...you will have reliability issues if you start firing 140 bar up it's ar5e.
I would always aim to run at max 75% of the working capacity ...pipes ,fittings,guns etc. Thats not to say a pipe rated at 200 bar will blow at 200bar...
-
I would guess so ...you will have reliability issues if you start firing 140 bar up it's ar5e.
Ok many thanks Chris.