Clean It Up
UK Window Cleaning Forum => Window Cleaning Forum => Topic started by: Harry Roberts on October 28, 2014, 07:13:27 pm
-
Hi guys.
I'm thinking of getting a heating engineer to come and fit a titanium emersion heater much like the one you would find on your hot water tank in the airing cubboard.
Plug in over night and there my hot water. I only really want say 45 degrees or so.
Has anyone done this and if do any good?
Cheers
H
-
Yes & it's a fantastic solution to a frost free van & comfortable working during winter.
**********HOWEVER ********
YOU MUST HAVE IT WIRED WITH THE CORRECT 16AMP GEAR DIRECT FROM MAIN CONSUMER UNIT.
DO NOT USE 13AMP PLUGS & SOCKETS- LEARN FROM ME WHO NEARLY BURNED HIS HOUSE DOWN!!!!!!
-
Yes & it's a fantastic solution to a frost free van & comfortable working during winter.
**********HOWEVER ********
YOU MUST HAVE IT WIRED WITH THE CORRECT 16AMP GEAR DIRECT FROM MAIN CONSUMER UNIT.
DO NOT USE 13AMP PLUGS & SOCKETS- LEARN FROM ME WHO NEARLY BURNED HIS HOUSE DOWN!!!!!!
Thanks for your response. Does it cost a lot to heat up on a nightly basis?
-
I have an outdoor 16amp socket on the house wall outside & use a 16amp extension cable to run between this & van- obviously the immersion heater cable has a 16amp plug on it also. The outside 16amp socket is wired to the main consumer unit which happens to be at the other side of the wall inside next to the front door (which helps). This is also wired via a 24hr timer so I can set the immersion to come on during the early hours of the morning for a set duration & knock itself off again. The extension cable (16amp) fits between the door rubbers on the van so the van can still be locked at night. It's not an expensive thing to do but MUST be done correctly preferably by a qualified electrician!! Fitting the immersion via mechanical flange is quite simple though & something most people could do themselves. ;)
Cost-
Immersion elements are 3KW. Find out what you are charged off peak per KWH (kilo watt hour) times that by three & you have your "per hour" running costs. We get half price leccy off peak. A 400ltr tank takes four hours to heat, this isn't boiling but hot. The tank acts as a giant radiator then & nothing in your van will freeze. In fact your van will be very toasty on any morning!! ;D
-
Brilliant.
I think that beats an lpg tank and potable boiler set up!
H
-
i have an immersion heater fantastic put it on a timer for three to four hours heats water stops every thing from freezing in van keeps hose soft far better IMHO than all the hassle of LPG and heaters now watch me get slated for this
-
The biggest benefit is having a whole system ready for work in the morning regardless of the outside temps. If the temps are too low you wont be working anyway but nothing in your van will freeze, water in tank stays very warm all day & hoses are lovely & supple all day too. You are killing two birds with one stone- van heater & warm water.
I can't emphasise enough though- do the electrics properly. My best mate is a sparky & he gave me a proper reality check when I melted 13amp plugs! It's not a big job for a sparky to do, two/three hours work maybe.
I would also use a mechanical flange, this is the proper & correct way to install the element into a tank. It also gives you the ability to blank the hole off in the future should you need to & the tank isn't left with a gaping hole rendering it useless!
Here's the flange-
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p38614
The element just simply screws into this like it would on a domestic hot water tank.
-
The biggest benefit is having a whole system ready for work in the morning regardless of the outside temps. If the temps are too low you wont be working anyway but nothing in your van will freeze, water in tank stays very warm all day & hoses are lovely & supple all day too. You are killing two birds with one stone- van heater & warm water.
I can't emphasise enough though- do the electrics properly. My best mate is a sparky & he gave me a proper reality check when I melted 13amp plugs! It's not a big job for a sparky to do, two/three hours work maybe.
I would also use a mechanical flange, this is the proper & correct way to install the element into a tank. It also gives you the ability to blank the hole off in the future should you need to & the tank isn't left with a gaping hole rendering it useless!
Here's the flange-
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p38614
The element just simply screws into this like it would on a domestic hot water tank.
Any chance you could post some pictures of the set up etc?
Cheers
H
-
Some excellent advice here, do you have your tank insulated, Cheers
-
is this the heater you used? http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Heating/d230/Central+Heating/sd2708/Immersion+Heater+Resettable+Thermostat/p12829
Brilliant.
I think that beats an lpg tank and potable boiler set up!
H
why not have both?
-
is this the heater you used? http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Heating/d230/Central+Heating/sd2708/Immersion+Heater+Resettable+Thermostat/p12829
Brilliant.
I think that beats an lpg tank and potable boiler set up!
H
why not have both?
It is but I used the 27" one. In fact, I think I got everything bar the immersion cable from Toolstation. I got a meter of immersion cable from City Electrical Factors.
-
Some excellent advice here, do you have your tank insulated, Cheers
NO! ;D If you insulate the tank none of the heat will get into the van. You'd be very surprised at how long the water stays warm for in a normal Wydale WFP tank- all day.
-
I'll post some links to the equipment required later. ;)
-
hope this helps
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XxrgYEurE3A
-
Some pics, this is the mechanical flange with & without the element fitted.
-
hope this helps
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XxrgYEurE3A
Good video but please note, Mark doesn't use a mechanical flange, just a normal threaded flange. The extra tenner for the proper flange is the best option & no sealer is required with it either- although I would PTFE any threads.
-
Inside tank- Note mini Torbeck float valve, again from Toolstation, no need for a full size ball valve, this one is over ten years old & never failed!!
-
Show me the charred house!
-
16 amp plug- for end of immersion cable.
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p36175
16 amp external socket-
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p20698
16 amp extension cable to connect the two-
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p12236
16 amp Internal mains timer-
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p78960
Pull up, plug in, bob's your uncle!! ;)
-
Show me the charred house!
Wish I had taken photos of the 13 amp plug & 13 amp plug-in timer!!! Can't believe how daft I was, caught them just in time melting & about to light up big time!! ::)roll :-[
-
I have and immersion heater in my water tank, its wired with standard 6mm cable and has a fused spur which has a 13 amp fuse in that the electrician refitted about 8 months ago....my boiler is broken at the moment and the immersion heater has been getting hammered.
I havent had a problem
Danny
-
This is the type of emersion heater I was thinking of.
It's a titainium one.
Do you think it would be ok?
-
This is the type of emersion heater I was thinking of.
It's a titainium one.
Do you think it would be ok?
No image there.
-
This is the type of emersion heater I was thinking of.
It's a titainium one.
Do you think it would be ok?
-
Hi guys.
I'm thinking of getting a heating engineer to come and fit a titanium emersion heater much like the one you would find on your hot water tank in the airing cubboard.
Plug in over night and there my hot water. I only really want say 45 degrees or so.
Has anyone done this and if do any good?
Cheers
H
Have you just been let out of prison?
-
Prison ? No.
I just can't upload the soddin picture!!
-
Excellent advice on this subject, can I ask what you used to make the hole in the tank for the heater please ?
-
I'm just about to fit another in a brand new, bigger tank. Can't remember off hand, the hole saw is in the shed somewhere, think it's around 63mm but will confirm later this week if you like.
I'll just remove the fittings from my old tank & transfer them over.
-
I'm just about to fit another in a brand new, bigger tank. Can't remember off hand, the hole saw is in the shed somewhere, think it's around 63mm but will confirm later this week if you like.
I'll just remove the fittings from my old tank & transfer them over.
Thanks for that, just ordered the element & bits, can you tell me what temperature you recommend, as I have a 650 litre tank ? I am very thankful for all your help ;D
-
I'm just about to fit another in a brand new, bigger tank. Can't remember off hand, the hole saw is in the shed somewhere, think it's around 63mm but will confirm later this week if you like.
I'll just remove the fittings from my old tank & transfer them over.
Thanks for that, just ordered the element & bits, can you tell me what temperature you recommend, as I have a 650 litre tank ? I am very thankful for all your help ;D
Think my element stat is set to about 70/80oC, it's never tripped & I have mine on for four hours in a 400ltr flat tank- set by mains timer. An upright tank might have different heating characteristics I don't know.
-
I'm just about to fit another in a brand new, bigger tank. Can't remember off hand, the hole saw is in the shed somewhere, think it's around 63mm but will confirm later this week if you like.
I'll just remove the fittings from my old tank & transfer them over.
Thanks for that, just ordered the element & bits, can you tell me what temperature you recommend, as I have a 650 litre tank ? I am very thankful for all your help ;D
If it's 3kW (as pictured in your link) then it'll raise 650 litres of water by one degree every 15 minutes and six seconds (though that assumes perfect insulation, which, as mentioned above, might not be what you want if you also want the van warm).
So, even if you leave it on from 10pm to 6am, you'll only be raising its temperature by a maximum of around 32deg. It'll be quite a bit less due to heat leakage. Tap water in winter will be around 5 deg C so you shouldn't be able to exceed your target if it's 45 deg. However, plenty of people seem to suggest around 20 deg as a safe limit when it comes to breaking cold windows, so that might make sense.
The other thing to bear in mind is that a 3kW heater will cost around 30p per hour to run.
Vin
-
Thank you Vin, you should be a scientist ! Got the electrician coming to price up fitting an outside 16 amp socket.
I am not going to be caught out this winter, and it doesn't take much for me to get down hearted !
-
Thank you Vin, you should be a scientist ! Got the electrician coming to price up fitting an outside 16 amp socket.
I am not going to be caught out this winter, and it doesn't take much for me to get down hearted !
Good for doing it right, it is a fantastic solution for winter. Think about where you position the element. Vin's calculations might be correct in theory but you'll not be heating a full 650 ltrs as the element won't be on the bottom of the tank. My element is approx one quarter to one third up from the bottom of the tank. I won't go in to all the warm water rises etc etc & the water will all mix anyway once you set off. What I'm getting at is that ideally you don't really want to be heating the full 650 ltrs, it will take longer & cost more. The size, shape & orientation of your tank will determine the best position for the element. ;)
-
(http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz300/nickthompson1959/Mobile%20Uploads/20131206_192606-1_zps983f871b.jpg) (http://s837.photobucket.com/user/nickthompson1959/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20131206_192606-1_zps983f871b.jpg.html)
How about a 1kw aquarium heater; just drop it in the tank.
Nick
-
Thank you Vin, you should be a scientist ! Got the electrician coming to price up fitting an outside 16 amp socket.
I am not going to be caught out this winter, and it doesn't take much for me to get down hearted !
Good for doing it right, it is a fantastic solution for winter. Think about where you position the element. Vin's calculations might be correct in theory but you'll not be heating a full 650 ltrs as the element won't be on the bottom of the tank. My element is approx one quarter to one third up from the bottom of the tank. I won't go in to all the warm water rises etc etc & the water will all mix anyway once you set off. What I'm getting at is that ideally you don't really want to be heating the full 650 ltrs, it will take longer & cost more. The size, shape & orientation of your tank will determine the best position for the element. ;)
The baffle goes vertically down the middle of the tank, so I will have to position it near the bottom I think
-
(http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz300/nickthompson1959/Mobile%20Uploads/20131206_192606-1_zps983f871b.jpg) (http://s837.photobucket.com/user/nickthompson1959/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20131206_192606-1_zps983f871b.jpg.html)
How about a 1kw aquarium heater; just drop it in the tank.
Nick
Hi Nick, do you have a link for that heater?
Cheers
-
Thank you Vin, you should be a scientist ! Got the electrician coming to price up fitting an outside 16 amp socket.
I am not going to be caught out this winter, and it doesn't take much for me to get down hearted !
Good for doing it right, it is a fantastic solution for winter. Think about where you position the element. Vin's calculations might be correct in theory but you'll not be heating a full 650 ltrs as the element won't be on the bottom of the tank. My element is approx one quarter to one third up from the bottom of the tank. I won't go in to all the warm water rises etc etc & the water will all mix anyway once you set off. What I'm getting at is that ideally you don't really want to be heating the full 650 ltrs, it will take longer & cost more. The size, shape & orientation of your tank will determine the best position for the element. ;)
The baffle goes vertically down the middle of the tank, so I will have to position it near the bottom I think
What tank is it? Wydale? size? Flat or upright? the baffle shouldn't be an issue to the height at which you install the element.
-
(http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz300/nickthompson1959/Mobile%20Uploads/20131206_192606-1_zps983f871b.jpg) (http://s837.photobucket.com/user/nickthompson1959/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20131206_192606-1_zps983f871b.jpg.html)
How about a 1kw aquarium heater; just drop it in the tank.
Nick
It might take the chill off but if 3KW takes four hours to heat 400ltrs I can't see this having much of an impact.
-
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/360844400777?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
This can be used with a 13 amp socket as its 2kw .
-
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/360844400777?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
This can be used with a 13 amp socket as its 2kw .
It's 7" long. Not much longer than a domestic kettle element & the same power. You might get 400ltrs of hot water if you leave it on for a week! ;D
-
(http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz300/nickthompson1959/Mobile%20Uploads/20131206_192606-1_zps983f871b.jpg) (http://s837.photobucket.com/user/nickthompson1959/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20131206_192606-1_zps983f871b.jpg.html)
How about a 1kw aquarium heater; just drop it in the tank.
Nick
It might take the chill off but if 3KW takes four hours to heat 400ltrs I can't see this having much of an impact.
I drop two of them in one of my 500 litre tanks and even on cold days the temperature is up to 30ºC in the morning (after 8 hs approximately).
If, of couse, you are heating the water every night consecutively, then, as has already been mentioned, the heat retentive quality of these plastic tanks is such that a considerable amount of the heat from the previous night will still be present reducing the heating time required.
Nick
-
(http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz300/nickthompson1959/Mobile%20Uploads/20131206_192606-1_zps983f871b.jpg) (http://s837.photobucket.com/user/nickthompson1959/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20131206_192606-1_zps983f871b.jpg.html)
How about a 1kw aquarium heater; just drop it in the tank.
Nick
Hi Nick, do you have a link for that heater?
Cheers
Sorry Dave but I can't remember where I found them. I've had them for quite some time now.
-
http://freshaquarium.about.com/od/heating/a/heatersizeguide.htm
-
(http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz300/nickthompson1959/Mobile%20Uploads/20131206_192606-1_zps983f871b.jpg) (http://s837.photobucket.com/user/nickthompson1959/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20131206_192606-1_zps983f871b.jpg.html)
How about a 1kw aquarium heater; just drop it in the tank.
Nick
It might take the chill off but if 3KW takes four hours to heat 400ltrs I can't see this having much of an impact.
I drop two of them in one of my 500 litre tanks and even on cold days the temperature is up to 30ºC in the morning (after 8 hs approximately).
If, of couse, you are heating the water every night consecutively, then, as has already been mentioned, the heat retentive quality of these plastic tanks is such that a considerable amount of the heat from the previous night will still be present reducing the heating time required.
Nick
But don't you use the water that has been heated up overnight during the working day ??? then you refill the tank with cold water out the tap so there won't be any heat retention at all.
-
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/360844400777?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
This can be used with a 13 amp socket as its 2kw .
While 2kW will get 650L up by 1 deg every 20 minutes, an immersion is made for long term use whereas that's intended to be used for a few minutes. It's also possibly not safe for long term immersion in water; I think they are designed to hang over the edge of a cup.
Vin
-
But don't you use the water that has been heated up overnight during the working day ??? then you refill the tank with cold water out the tap so there won't be any heat retention at all.
[/quote]
Yes, sorry KS, I should have made that more clear.
I was referring to the times when, for what ever reason, the water doesn't get used; adverse weather restricting water usage or perhaps the times when you've heated the water the night before just for its anti frost protection, on those occasions a one 1kw aquarium heater will do the job.
Nick
-
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/360844400777?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
This can be used with a 13 amp socket as its 2kw .
While 2kW will get 650L up by 1 deg every 20 minutes, an immersion is made for long term use whereas that's intended to be used for a few minutes. It's also possibly not safe for long term immersion in water; I think they are designed to hang over the edge of a cup.
Vin
somebody on here (think it may be smudger) has been using one of these to heat 1000 litre ibc for around 3 years , he sent me the link.
Its too powerful for a cup , its designed more for cooking potatoes etc in a pot when your at a campsite with electric hookup .
-
http://www.cleanitup.co.uk/smf/index.php?topic=189743.0
link to smudgers posts
-
somebody on here (think it may be smudger) has been using one of these to heat 1000 litre ibc for around 3 years , he sent me the link.
Its too powerful for a cup , its designed more for cooking potatoes etc in a pot when your at a campsite with electric hookup .
I get it; in which case that might well work. It's certainly less breakable than the glass aquarium heaters though I'm not certain I'd like to leave it unwatched overnight.
Vin
-
I have ordered one but delivery can take upto a month from hong kong , once up and running i will report back how well it works .
nothing to lose for a tenner!
-
I put 2 of these portable immersion 2kw heaters in my 650 upright tank overnight, I put them on separate ext reels but still managed to melt a plug the other week, when I was replacing the plug I noticed there was no earth wire in the cable, could this be a problem?
-
I put 2 of these portable immersion 2kw heaters in my 650 upright tank overnight, I put them on separate ext reels but still managed to melt a plug the other week, when I was replacing the plug I noticed there was no earth wire in the cable, could this be a problem?
No it wouldn't. Fully insulated electrical equipment doesn't need an earth. It it was an element fitted to a metal urn for example, then yes, it will need an earth.
It would have melted as there was a resistance at the plug point. That resistance would cause a hot spot. As the hot spot gets hotter, the resistance increases until something gives. It could have been a lose connection on the plug, on a poor connection on the extension cable's socket.
Using the correct size cable on the cable drum is important. Even more so is to always fully unwind the cable from the cable drum and lay it out as straight as possible. This will prevent the coiled cable generating a magnetic field when high current is used. The magnetic field will also cause heat, then resistance and could/will melt the whole cable. Seen it often on building sites overseas in the power tool industry.
Laying your cable out will also help to keep the cable cooler under load.
-
I put 2 of these portable immersion 2kw heaters in my 650 upright tank overnight, I put them on separate ext reels but still managed to melt a plug the other week, when I was replacing the plug I noticed there was no earth wire in the cable, could this be a problem?
No it wouldn't. Fully insulated electrical equipment doesn't need an earth. It it was an element fitted to a metal urn for example, then yes, it will need an earth.
It would have melted as there was a resistance at the plug point. That resistance would cause a hot spot. As the hot spot gets hotter, the resistance increases until something gives. It could have been a lose connection on the plug, on a poor connection on the extension cable's socket.
Using the correct size cable on the cable drum is important. Even more so is to always fully unwind the cable from the cable drum and lay it out as straight as possible. This will prevent the coiled cable generating a magnetic field when high current is used. The magnetic field will also cause heat, then resistance and could/will melt the whole cable. Seen it often on building sites overseas in the power tool industry.
Laying your cable out will also help to keep the cable cooler under load.
Thanks for the informative reply Spruce ;)
-
Hi Spruce , I'm using this cable and I'm using only the length required to reach from outside socket into the shed ( about 3 metres).
good choice of cable in your opinion?
-
Hi Robert
Unfortunately, supplying power to an outside shed comes under Part P of the electrical regulations.
http://www.mybuilder.com/questions/v/6159/getting-power-to-a-shed
It doesn't matter whether the cable length is 3 meters or 23 meters; the regulations still apply. Sorry.
If it was to your van from the wall socket, then you could get away with a length of 2.5mm cable. You would be covered by doing the same as the 'boys' with portable hot tubs outside are. If they are 'plug and play' units then they can plug into any 13amp household socket with existing/or additional RCD protection.
The moment something becomes fixed then it all changes. It is no longer a temporary situation. (The larger Hot Tubs need a 32 amp electrical circuit and this is all specialised electrians domain.)
-
I put 2 of these portable immersion 2kw heaters in my 650 upright tank overnight, I put them on separate ext reels but still managed to melt a plug the other week, when I was replacing the plug I noticed there was no earth wire in the cable, could this be a problem?
Drawing a constant 2Kw for hours on end is the problem. It's not like a kettle where it's just a short burst of high consumption.
I've stated it on numerous threads now, please don't take silly risks with your lives & homes, it's only a few quid more to do the whole thing correctly. All the 16amp quality parts for a full 3KW immersion set up are approx £100, then a couple of hours for a professional sparky to install to the main consumer unit & fit external 16amp socket. :)
-
I put 2 of these portable immersion 2kw heaters in my 650 upright tank overnight, I put them on separate ext reels but still managed to melt a plug the other week, when I was replacing the plug I noticed there was no earth wire in the cable, could this be a problem?
Drawing a constant 2Kw for hours on end is the problem. It's not like a kettle where it's just a short burst of high consumption.
I've stated it on numerous threads now, please don't take silly risks with your lives & homes, it's only a few quid more to do the whole thing correctly. All the 16amp quality parts for a full 3KW immersion set up are approx £100, then a couple of hours for a professional sparky to install to the main consumer unit & fit external 16amp socket. :)
Thats not viable in my house , fusebox at the front shed at the back , would mean running cables through the house .
-
i will use the cable to make an extension lead then and just hang it on a hook !
not going to inform building control etc and pay £200 !!
-
I put 2 of these portable immersion 2kw heaters in my 650 upright tank overnight, I put them on separate ext reels but still managed to melt a plug the other week, when I was replacing the plug I noticed there was no earth wire in the cable, could this be a problem?
Drawing a constant 2Kw for hours on end is the problem. It's not like a kettle where it's just a short burst of high consumption.
I've stated it on numerous threads now, please don't take silly risks with your lives & homes, it's only a few quid more to do the whole thing correctly. All the 16amp quality parts for a full 3KW immersion set up are approx £100, then a couple of hours for a professional sparky to install to the main consumer unit & fit external 16amp socket. :)
Thats not viable in my house , fusebox at the front shed at the back , would mean running cables through the house .
It could be done with external cable depends if you want/need it enough for the extra expense. We have a log cabin up the back & that has mains into it via 25m of armoured cable.
-
I put 2 of these portable immersion 2kw heaters in my 650 upright tank overnight, I put them on separate ext reels but still managed to melt a plug the other week, when I was replacing the plug I noticed there was no earth wire in the cable, could this be a problem?
Drawing a constant 2Kw for hours on end is the problem. It's not like a kettle where it's just a short burst of high consumption.
I've stated it on numerous threads now, please don't take silly risks with your lives & homes, it's only a few quid more to do the whole thing correctly. All the 16amp quality parts for a full 3KW immersion set up are approx £100, then a couple of hours for a professional sparky to install to the main consumer unit & fit external 16amp socket. :)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ This is what I plan to do when I get my new van in March. Could you put up links for the 16amp parts please ;) Also for an upright tank is there a way of getting the immersion fitted near the bottom of the tank or do you just get the local orang-utan to fit it ::)roll
-
I was talking to this guy (Alex) today and he said this system is the best on the market and he hasn't had any problems with it since he has had it 2 years ago, so i might go for it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CkjYminKhug&feature=youtu.be
-
I put 2 of these portable immersion 2kw heaters in my 650 upright tank overnight, I put them on separate ext reels but still managed to melt a plug the other week, when I was replacing the plug I noticed there was no earth wire in the cable, could this be a problem?
Drawing a constant 2Kw for hours on end is the problem. It's not like a kettle where it's just a short burst of high consumption.
I've stated it on numerous threads now, please don't take silly risks with your lives & homes, it's only a few quid more to do the whole thing correctly. All the 16amp quality parts for a full 3KW immersion set up are approx £100, then a couple of hours for a professional sparky to install to the main consumer unit & fit external 16amp socket. :)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ This is what I plan to do when I get my new van in March. Could you put up links for the 16amp parts please ;) Also for an upright tank is there a way of getting the immersion fitted near the bottom of the tank or do you just get the local orang-utan to fit it ::)roll
Page 1 of this thread, reply #18 lists the links for 16 amp gear. There ways to get the flange installed at the bottom of an upright tank but to be honest I would recommend you have it a quarter to a third up from the bottom.
This is the mechanical flange you want & immersion element, I would recommend a 27" element wherever possible.
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p38614
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Heating/d230/Central+Heating/sd2708/Long+Life+Immersion+Heater+Resettable+Thermostat/p65632
-
I put 2 of these portable immersion 2kw heaters in my 650 upright tank overnight, I put them on separate ext reels but still managed to melt a plug the other week, when I was replacing the plug I noticed there was no earth wire in the cable, could this be a problem?
Drawing a constant 2Kw for hours on end is the problem. It's not like a kettle where it's just a short burst of high consumption.
I've stated it on numerous threads now, please don't take silly risks with your lives & homes, it's only a few quid more to do the whole thing correctly. All the 16amp quality parts for a full 3KW immersion set up are approx £100, then a couple of hours for a professional sparky to install to the main consumer unit & fit external 16amp socket. :)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ This is what I plan to do when I get my new van in March. Could you put up links for the 16amp parts please ;) Also for an upright tank is there a way of getting the immersion fitted near the bottom of the tank or do you just get the local orang-utan to fit it ::)roll
Page 1 of this thread, reply #18 lists the links for 16 amp gear. There ways to get the flange installed at the bottom of an upright tank but to be honest I would recommend you have it a quarter to a third up from the bottom.
This is the mechanical flange you want & immersion element, I would recommend a 27" element wherever possible.
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p38614
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Heating/d230/Central+Heating/sd2708/Long+Life+Immersion+Heater+Resettable+Thermostat/p65632
Sorry, last time I looked at the link I didn't see the catalogue to the right of the page...doh!
-
Hi Robert
Unfortunately, supplying power to an outside shed comes under Part P of the electrical regulations.
http://www.mybuilder.com/questions/v/6159/getting-power-to-a-shed
It doesn't matter whether the cable length is 3 meters or 23 meters; the regulations still apply. Sorry.
If it was to your van from the wall socket, then you could get away with a length of 2.5mm cable. You would be covered by doing the same as the 'boys' with portable hot tubs outside are. If they are 'plug and play' units then they can plug into any 13amp household socket with existing/or additional RCD protection.
The moment something becomes fixed then it all changes. It is no longer a temporary situation. (The larger Hot Tubs need a 32 amp electrical circuit and this is all specialised electrians domain.)
I spoke to an electrician today about part p .....he said even if i screw a socket to the wall in the shed as i am plugging it into an outside socket (so it can be unplugged) that it is not considered permanent .