Clean It Up
UK Window Cleaning Forum => Window Cleaning Forum => Topic started by: H20cleaning on July 31, 2014, 05:11:03 pm
-
They were black! No wonder my resin wasnt lasting long! Im shocked thats water was still down to 010!
-
(http://www.cleanitup.co.uk/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=187928.0;attach=35392)
-
Im on my phone so cant post directly into description
-
It beats me why the filter bowls aren't clear.
I have the 20" filters and clear are available but they're way more expensive because they're "made of unicorn giz"
Why are backpack coloured? is it so we are so unsure of how much water is left, we work at mac10 to finish.
Clear would be so much better.
Tony
-
It beats me why the filter bowls aren't clear.
I have the 20" filters and clear are available but they're way more expensive because they're "made of unicorn giz"
Why are backpack coloured? is it so we are so unsure of how much water is left, we work at mac10 to finish.
Clear would be so much better.
Tony
I dont know for sure but is it because if you have your r.o outside it stops the sun getting to the filters therefore stopping algae etc... Growing in them?
-
Fair point ;D
Tony
-
try the newer 3-in 1 filters from gardiners, much better
-
OMG Adam, don't be tight ass, but filters in bulk they only a couple of quid, you will get them even cheaper the more you buy at one time 😜
-
Let them dry they wont be as dirty as you think.
Pre filters have no effect on TDS their only job is to protect the R.O.
The sediment filter is still fully intact so no sediment will get through into the R.O., the only thing that
could happen is you water production might slow down due to it being clogged.
The carbon filter stops chlorine getting to the R.O. so wont be dirty.
One thing I never worry about is changing pre filters, buy 20 sets and you will have spent more money
than the price of a new membrane.
Its spending a pound to save a penny.
-
Let them dry they wont be as dirty as you think.
Pre filters have no effect on TDS their only job is to protect the R.O.
The sediment filter is still fully intact so no sediment will get through into the R.O., the only thing that
could happen is you water production might slow down due to it being clogged.
The carbon filter stops chlorine getting to the R.O. so wont be dirty.
One thing I never worry about is changing pre filters, buy 20 sets and you will have spent more money
than the price of a new membrane.
Its spending a pound to save a penny.
Mmm well how come my water is down to 000 now? They must have an effect on the TDS as before i changed them the water wouldnt go below 010
-
Let them dry they wont be as dirty as you think.
Pre filters have no effect on TDS their only job is to protect the R.O.
The sediment filter is still fully intact so no sediment will get through into the R.O., the only thing that
could happen is you water production might slow down due to it being clogged.
The carbon filter stops chlorine getting to the R.O. so wont be dirty.
One thing I never worry about is changing pre filters, buy 20 sets and you will have spent more money
than the price of a new membrane.
Its spending a pound to save a penny.
Mmm well how come my water is down to 000 now? They must have an effect on the TDS as before i changed them the water wouldnt go below 010
They don't remove dissolved solids so have no effect on TDS.
If the sediment filter was clogged it might have an effect on your water pressure entering the R.O.
thus making it less efficient.
But you would need to have very high levels of sediment for this to happen in a few months of use.
I think its about a year since I last changed mine, must change them at the weekend.
-
Let them dry they wont be as dirty as you think.
Pre filters have no effect on TDS their only job is to protect the R.O.
The sediment filter is still fully intact so no sediment will get through into the R.O., the only thing that
could happen is you water production might slow down due to it being clogged.
The carbon filter stops chlorine getting to the R.O. so wont be dirty.
One thing I never worry about is changing pre filters, buy 20 sets and you will have spent more money
than the price of a new membrane.
Its spending a pound to save a penny.
Mmm well how come my water is down to 000 now? They must have an effect on the TDS as before i changed them the water wouldnt go below 010
Is 000 before your D.I as resin (if you use if) should have brought your tds down to 000 irrelevant of what was coming out of your r.o...
I dont really agree with there being no need to change prefilters regularily(to each there own) but they shouldnt effect tds unless there smashing your membranes but then your membranes would be pooped aswell...
(I know because i've just changed all of mine due to the membranes getting bummed)
-
Let them dry they wont be as dirty as you think.
Pre filters have no effect on TDS their only job is to protect the R.O.
The sediment filter is still fully intact so no sediment will get through into the R.O., the only thing that
could happen is you water production might slow down due to it being clogged.
The carbon filter stops chlorine getting to the R.O. so wont be dirty.
One thing I never worry about is changing pre filters, buy 20 sets and you will have spent more money
than the price of a new membrane.
Its spending a pound to save a penny.
Mmm well how come my water is down to 000 now? They must have an effect on the TDS as before i changed them the water wouldnt go below 010
Is 000 before your D.I as resin (if you use if) should have brought your tds down to 000 irrelevant of what was coming out of your r.o...
I dont really agree with there being no need to change prefilters regularily(to each there own) but they shouldnt effect tds unless there smashing your membranes but then your membranes would be pooped aswell...
(I know because i've just changed all of mine due to the membranes getting bummed)
Why don't you agree ?
Because the guys who sell them have convinced you that your R.O. wont last unless you change them regularly.
I got talking to a guy who was changing them every 2 weeks and didn't realise that he was spending more than the
price of a new R.O. membrane yearly.
He was that scared of forking out £220 for a new membrane that he couldn't grasp the fact that he was forking it out yearly
to protect it. Madness.
-
Nothing to do with sales people mate, My reasons are more for how much faster i produce water by changing them and the fact that i have destroyed my membranes by not (i think that was the reason they shot so quickly but i dont know 100%)
I change them 2-3montly, so 7 sets cost around £60-70 ish...
7 sets x 3 months = 21 months...its a bit cheaper than £100 (not much granted) every 12 months, and i know that i produce water quicker when there reasonably fresh...
I'm not arguing with you mate, do what works for you...i was just talking from experiance
-
Our water on Teesside seems to be rather laden with sediment.
At the moment we go through about 3 sediment filters to 1 carbon block filter.
-
Those filters in the picture are quite normal after a few months of use. Change 'em every six months or when the pressure drops a bit.
Sometimes the paper one can break up a bit if it's left in too long.
-
Nothing to do with sales people mate, My reasons are more for how much faster i produce water by changing them and the fact that i have destroyed my membranes by not (i think that was the reason they shot so quickly but i dont know 100%)
I change them 2-3montly, so 7 sets cost around £60-70 ish...
7 sets x 3 months = 21 months...its a bit cheaper than £100 (not much granted) every 12 months, and i know that i produce water quicker when there reasonably fresh...
I'm not arguing with you mate, do what works for you...i was just talking from experiance
I agree with what you have stated.
The 10" Fiberdyne prefilter Gardiner sells will treat 37800 litres of water (figures provided by the manufacturer.) If you have a restrictor that gives a 3:1 waste to pure ratio then each 1 litre of pure will need 4 litres to process. This means that this filter will give you 9500 litres of pure. (For the 3 of us this filter will last us 2 weeks.) If you are using an ordinary CAG filter then these have a service life of 2500 American Gallons or about 9450 liters (figures provided by the manufacturer.). These will be good enough to process 2300 litres of pure.
If you are using 300 liters a day then the Fiberdyne needs to be replaced every 31 working days (approx 6 weeks) and the CAG filters every 7 working days (approx every 10 days).
We use 20" prefilters with clear bowls on our 4040 so we can see at a glance what state the sediment filter is in. The Fiberdyne 20" filter is good for approximately 77k liters of chlorine removal. We have our waste to pure ratio at around 50/50 so expect about 38k of pure from that. This means we need to change the chlorine filter every 6 weeks.
These figures show you how important it is to replace your prefilters regularly.
The first r/o we bought (3 x 75GPD RoMan type filter) was second hand and needed replacement membranes at just over a year old as the previous owner didn't regularly replace his prefilters. I think the first time they were changed was when he sold the unit to me. Anyway I replaced them with 3 x 150GPD membranes and changed prefilters every 3 months. (It was just me on my own in those early days.) Those 150GPD membranes lasted over 6 years and supplied enough water for 2 of us for 4 years of that time.
I'm a great believer in replacing filters regularly as the cost of membranes and resin quickly add up. Running the system to manufacturer's guidelines means that you can always know and trust that the water in your tank is 100% without having to continually check that it is.
-
Our water on Teesside seems to be rather laden with sediment.
At the moment we go through about 3 sediment filters to 1 carbon block filter.
I didnt know you were from teesside ?? FREINDSSSS
-
Nothing to do with sales people mate, My reasons are more for how much faster i produce water by changing them and the fact that i have destroyed my membranes by not (i think that was the reason they shot so quickly but i dont know 100%)
I change them 2-3montly, so 7 sets cost around £60-70 ish...
7 sets x 3 months = 21 months...its a bit cheaper than £100 (not much granted) every 12 months, and i know that i produce water quicker when there reasonably fresh...
I'm not arguing with you mate, do what works for you...i was just talking from experiance
I agree with what you have stated.
The 10" Fiberdyne prefilter Gardiner sells will treat 37800 litres of water (figures provided by the manufacturer.) If you have a restrictor that gives a 3:1 waste to pure ratio then each 1 litre of pure will need 4 litres to process. This means that this filter will give you 9500 litres of pure. (For the 3 of us this filter will last us 2 weeks.) If you are using an ordinary CAG filter then these have a service life of 2500 American Gallons or about 9450 liters (figures provided by the manufacturer.). These will be good enough to process 2300 litres of pure.
If you are using 300 liters a day then the Fiberdyne needs to be replaced every 31 working days (approx 6 weeks) and the CAG filters every 7 working days (approx every 10 days).
We use 20" prefilters with clear bowls on our 4040 so we can see at a glance what state the sediment filter is in. The Fiberdyne 20" filter is good for approximately 77k liters of chlorine removal. We have our waste to pure ratio at around 50/50 so expect about 38k of pure from that. This means we need to change the chlorine filter every 6 weeks.
These figures show you how important it is to replace your prefilters regularly.
The first r/o we bought (3 x 75GPD RoMan type filter) was second hand and needed replacement membranes at just over a year old as the previous owner didn't regularly replace his prefilters. I think the first time they were changed was when he sold the unit to me. Anyway I replaced them with 3 x 150GPD membranes and changed prefilters every 3 months. (It was just me on my own in those early days.) Those 150GPD membranes lasted over 6 years and supplied enough water for 2 of us for 4 years of that time.
I'm a great believer in replacing filters regularly as the cost of membranes and resin quickly add up. Running the system to manufacturer's guidelines means that you can always know and trust that the water in your tank is 100% without having to continually check that it is.
Spruce every figure you mention is nothing more than speculation as you will see on the filter packet it all depends on the amount of sediment or chlorine in the water.
As you have no way of measuring this then like I say your just speculating.
Just stop and think about what a sediment filter does, its stops sediment getting to the R.O. so the only way it will damage a
R.O. is if it breaks down and allows the sediments to get to the R.O.
Again this wont happen because the carbon block will still stop the sediment even if the paper one falls apart.
So its not important to change a sediment filter at regular intervals.
As for the carbon filter do you honestly believe that something so cheap would be anywhere near as accurate as it states on the packet ?
For gods sake they are mass produced for a couple of pence in China.
Please explain to me why my R.O. is still going strong after 6 years when Iv never changed a pre filter more than twice a year
since I installed it. According to your figures it should have been wiped out years ago.
Most R.O. membranes fail early because they are not used properly not because of pre filters.
R.O. shock would more than likely be the main suspect.
-
Sean we've been using twin Carbon filers as they are in themselves a 5 micron sediment filter. What is RO shock ?
-
Well I change mine every 3 to 4 months due to the pure water slowing into my storage tank. 😄
-
Let them dry they wont be as dirty as you think.
Pre filters have no effect on TDS their only job is to protect the R.O.
The sediment filter is still fully intact so no sediment will get through into the R.O., the only thing that
could happen is you water production might slow down due to it being clogged.
The carbon filter stops chlorine getting to the R.O. so wont be dirty.
One thing I never worry about is changing pre filters, buy 20 sets and you will have spent more money
than the price of a new membrane.
Its spending a pound to save a penny.
The older your pre filters are the more clogged they will be.
That means less water flow and pressure to the membrane.
That in turn means a rise in TDS and that your membranes are not working as efficiently as they could be.
-
Nothing to do with sales people mate, My reasons are more for how much faster i produce water by changing them and the fact that i have destroyed my membranes by not (i think that was the reason they shot so quickly but i dont know 100%)
I change them 2-3montly, so 7 sets cost around £60-70 ish...
7 sets x 3 months = 21 months...its a bit cheaper than £100 (not much granted) every 12 months, and i know that i produce water quicker when there reasonably fresh...
I'm not arguing with you mate, do what works for you...i was just talking from experiance
I agree with what you have stated.
The 10" Fiberdyne prefilter Gardiner sells will treat 37800 litres of water (figures provided by the manufacturer.) If you have a restrictor that gives a 3:1 waste to pure ratio then each 1 litre of pure will need 4 litres to process. This means that this filter will give you 9500 litres of pure. (For the 3 of us this filter will last us 2 weeks.) If you are using an ordinary CAG filter then these have a service life of 2500 American Gallons or about 9450 liters (figures provided by the manufacturer.). These will be good enough to process 2300 litres of pure.
If you are using 300 liters a day then the Fiberdyne needs to be replaced every 31 working days (approx 6 weeks) and the CAG filters every 7 working days (approx every 10 days).
We use 20" prefilters with clear bowls on our 4040 so we can see at a glance what state the sediment filter is in. The Fiberdyne 20" filter is good for approximately 77k liters of chlorine removal. We have our waste to pure ratio at around 50/50 so expect about 38k of pure from that. This means we need to change the chlorine filter every 6 weeks.
These figures show you how important it is to replace your prefilters regularly.
The first r/o we bought (3 x 75GPD RoMan type filter) was second hand and needed replacement membranes at just over a year old as the previous owner didn't regularly replace his prefilters. I think the first time they were changed was when he sold the unit to me. Anyway I replaced them with 3 x 150GPD membranes and changed prefilters every 3 months. (It was just me on my own in those early days.) Those 150GPD membranes lasted over 6 years and supplied enough water for 2 of us for 4 years of that time.
I'm a great believer in replacing filters regularly as the cost of membranes and resin quickly add up. Running the system to manufacturer's guidelines means that you can always know and trust that the water in your tank is 100% without having to continually check that it is.
This seems a little bizarre to me. I average about 5,000 litres a week (including waste) and change the pre-filters every 4-5 months. I have a sediment pre-filter followed by a carbon one. They are 20" but even so, the membrane HF5 4040 membrane is over 4 years old and doing well. It produces at a reasonable rate and at TDS of 008 (pressure is fairly low even with new pre-filters). I do flush for a few minutes very frequently so I imagine that helps.
-
Nothing to do with sales people mate, My reasons are more for how much faster i produce water by changing them and the fact that i have destroyed my membranes by not (i think that was the reason they shot so quickly but i dont know 100%)
I change them 2-3montly, so 7 sets cost around £60-70 ish...
7 sets x 3 months = 21 months...its a bit cheaper than £100 (not much granted) every 12 months, and i know that i produce water quicker when there reasonably fresh...
I'm not arguing with you mate, do what works for you...i was just talking from experiance
I agree with what you have stated.
The 10" Fiberdyne prefilter Gardiner sells will treat 37800 litres of water (figures provided by the manufacturer.) If you have a restrictor that gives a 3:1 waste to pure ratio then each 1 litre of pure will need 4 litres to process. This means that this filter will give you 9500 litres of pure. (For the 3 of us this filter will last us 2 weeks.) If you are using an ordinary CAG filter then these have a service life of 2500 American Gallons or about 9450 liters (figures provided by the manufacturer.). These will be good enough to process 2300 litres of pure.
If you are using 300 liters a day then the Fiberdyne needs to be replaced every 31 working days (approx 6 weeks) and the CAG filters every 7 working days (approx every 10 days).
We use 20" prefilters with clear bowls on our 4040 so we can see at a glance what state the sediment filter is in. The Fiberdyne 20" filter is good for approximately 77k liters of chlorine removal. We have our waste to pure ratio at around 50/50 so expect about 38k of pure from that. This means we need to change the chlorine filter every 6 weeks.
These figures show you how important it is to replace your prefilters regularly.
The first r/o we bought (3 x 75GPD RoMan type filter) was second hand and needed replacement membranes at just over a year old as the previous owner didn't regularly replace his prefilters. I think the first time they were changed was when he sold the unit to me. Anyway I replaced them with 3 x 150GPD membranes and changed prefilters every 3 months. (It was just me on my own in those early days.) Those 150GPD membranes lasted over 6 years and supplied enough water for 2 of us for 4 years of that time.
I'm a great believer in replacing filters regularly as the cost of membranes and resin quickly add up. Running the system to manufacturer's guidelines means that you can always know and trust that the water in your tank is 100% without having to continually check that it is.
Spruce every figure you mention is nothing more than speculation as you will see on the filter packet it all depends on the amount of sediment or chlorine in the water.
As you have no way of measuring this then like I say your just speculating.
Just stop and think about what a sediment filter does, its stops sediment getting to the R.O. so the only way it will damage a
R.O. is if it breaks down and allows the sediments to get to the R.O.
Again this wont happen because the carbon block will still stop the sediment even if the paper one falls apart.
So its not important to change a sediment filter at regular intervals.
As for the carbon filter do you honestly believe that something so cheap would be anywhere near as accurate as it states on the packet ?
For gods sake they are mass produced for a couple of pence in China.
Please explain to me why my R.O. is still going strong after 6 years when Iv never changed a pre filter more than twice a year
since I installed it. According to your figures it should have been wiped out years ago.
Most R.O. membranes fail early because they are not used properly not because of pre filters.
R.O. shock would more than likely be the main suspect.
I take your comments on board.
Firstly, the reason why we change our sediment filters that regularly is that they get blocked and starts to restrict water flow. After a month ours come out full of red sludge and slime. We can see the pressure drop before and after the prefilters as I have gauges on each side of them.
So I guess that I should have stated that the sediment filter will stop the carbon block filter getting blocked up with sediment.
In the early days we used CAG filters which were changed every 3 months. They weren't sediment filter as well. Any sediment in the water would find their way through to the r/o membrane.
Over the years I have noted that some use more water a month than we do and still change their prefilters every 3 months with standard carbon block prefilters and haven't had adverse effects with r/o deterioration. Window Washers on this forum was one of them. According to the label on these CAG filters our filters on the previous r/o would have reached their service life along time before we changed them with no apparent deterioration of the membrane. So your argument has some validity.
However, Vin from Perfect Windows in Southampton has has no end of trouble with his 4040 membranes. GAPS water identified that chlorine as the problem and he fitted a large DI vessel filled with granulated carbon as his carbon block prefilter. That was over 2 years ago and he hasn't reported an issue since.
We have no way of being able to measure accurately how much chlorine is in our tap water. The swimming pool chlorine testers are hit and miss even at best. All you can do is follow the manufacturers instructions. If you extend the limits of those instructions, then you take the risk. If it works for you, which it obviously has done, then great. But that doesn't mean that the identical procedure will work in another location in another part of the UK for someone else.
So when you advise someone, you have to follow the guidelines the manufacturer laid out. If you advise someone that you only need to change your prefilters once a year and he experiences membrane failure because of that, your advise was incorrect and he has suffered financially because of it.
IMHO we have to be so careful when giving out advise and what works for us may not be correct for the next person.
-
Let them dry they wont be as dirty as you think.
Pre filters have no effect on TDS their only job is to protect the R.O.
The sediment filter is still fully intact so no sediment will get through into the R.O., the only thing that
could happen is you water production might slow down due to it being clogged.
The carbon filter stops chlorine getting to the R.O. so wont be dirty.
One thing I never worry about is changing pre filters, buy 20 sets and you will have spent more money
than the price of a new membrane.
Its spending a pound to save a penny.
This is definitely what we experience.
The older your pre filters are the more clogged they will be.
That means less water flow and pressure to the membrane.
That in turn means a rise in TDS and that your membranes are not working as efficiently as they could be.
-
Our water on Teesside seems to be rather laden with sediment.
At the moment we go through about 3 sediment filters to 1 carbon block filter.
I didnt know you were from teesside ?? FREINDSSSS
:)
-
I do flush for a few minutes very frequently so I imagine that helps.
June at Gapswater doesnt think thats particularly beneficial.
-
Nothing to do with sales people mate, My reasons are more for how much faster i produce water by changing them and the fact that i have destroyed my membranes by not (i think that was the reason they shot so quickly but i dont know 100%)
I change them 2-3montly, so 7 sets cost around £60-70 ish...
7 sets x 3 months = 21 months...its a bit cheaper than £100 (not much granted) every 12 months, and i know that i produce water quicker when there reasonably fresh...
I'm not arguing with you mate, do what works for you...i was just talking from experiance
I agree with what you have stated.
The 10" Fiberdyne prefilter Gardiner sells will treat 37800 litres of water (figures provided by the manufacturer.) If you have a restrictor that gives a 3:1 waste to pure ratio then each 1 litre of pure will need 4 litres to process. This means that this filter will give you 9500 litres of pure. (For the 3 of us this filter will last us 2 weeks.) If you are using an ordinary CAG filter then these have a service life of 2500 American Gallons or about 9450 liters (figures provided by the manufacturer.). These will be good enough to process 2300 litres of pure.
If you are using 300 liters a day then the Fiberdyne needs to be replaced every 31 working days (approx 6 weeks) and the CAG filters every 7 working days (approx every 10 days).
We use 20" prefilters with clear bowls on our 4040 so we can see at a glance what state the sediment filter is in. The Fiberdyne 20" filter is good for approximately 77k liters of chlorine removal. We have our waste to pure ratio at around 50/50 so expect about 38k of pure from that. This means we need to change the chlorine filter every 6 weeks.
These figures show you how important it is to replace your prefilters regularly.
The first r/o we bought (3 x 75GPD RoMan type filter) was second hand and needed replacement membranes at just over a year old as the previous owner didn't regularly replace his prefilters. I think the first time they were changed was when he sold the unit to me. Anyway I replaced them with 3 x 150GPD membranes and changed prefilters every 3 months. (It was just me on my own in those early days.) Those 150GPD membranes lasted over 6 years and supplied enough water for 2 of us for 4 years of that time.
I'm a great believer in replacing filters regularly as the cost of membranes and resin quickly add up. Running the system to manufacturer's guidelines means that you can always know and trust that the water in your tank is 100% without having to continually check that it is.
Spruce every figure you mention is nothing more than speculation as you will see on the filter packet it all depends on the amount of sediment or chlorine in the water.
As you have no way of measuring this then like I say your just speculating.
Just stop and think about what a sediment filter does, its stops sediment getting to the R.O. so the only way it will damage a
R.O. is if it breaks down and allows the sediments to get to the R.O.
Again this wont happen because the carbon block will still stop the sediment even if the paper one falls apart.
So its not important to change a sediment filter at regular intervals.
As for the carbon filter do you honestly believe that something so cheap would be anywhere near as accurate as it states on the packet ?
For gods sake they are mass produced for a couple of pence in China.
Please explain to me why my R.O. is still going strong after 6 years when Iv never changed a pre filter more than twice a year
since I installed it. According to your figures it should have been wiped out years ago.
Most R.O. membranes fail early because they are not used properly not because of pre filters.
R.O. shock would more than likely be the main suspect.
I take your comments on board.
Firstly, the reason why we change our sediment filters that regularly is that they get blocked and starts to restrict water flow. After a month ours come out full of red sludge and slime. We can see the pressure drop before and after the prefilters as I have gauges on each side of them.
So I guess that I should have stated that the sediment filter will stop the carbon block filter getting blocked up with sediment.
In the early days we used CAG filters which were changed every 3 months. They weren't sediment filter as well. Any sediment in the water would find their way through to the r/o membrane.
Over the years I have noted that some use more water a month than we do and still change their prefilters every 3 months with standard carbon block prefilters and haven't had adverse effects with r/o deterioration. Window Washers on this forum was one of them. According to the label on these CAG filters our filters on the previous r/o would have reached their service life along time before we changed them with no apparent deterioration of the membrane. So your argument has some validity.
However, Vin from Perfect Windows in Southampton has has no end of trouble with his 4040 membranes. GAPS water identified that chlorine as the problem and he fitted a large DI vessel filled with granulated carbon as his carbon block prefilter. That was over 2 years ago and he hasn't reported an issue since.
We have no way of being able to measure accurately how much chlorine is in our tap water. The swimming pool chlorine testers are hit and miss even at best. All you can do is follow the manufacturers instructions. If you extend the limits of those instructions, then you take the risk. If it works for you, which it obviously has done, then great. But that doesn't mean that the identical procedure will work in another location in another part of the UK for someone else.
So when you advise someone, you have to follow the guidelines the manufacturer laid out. If you advise someone that you only need to change your prefilters once a year and he experiences membrane failure because of that, your advise was incorrect and he has suffered financially because of it.
IMHO we have to be so careful when giving out advise and what works for us may not be correct for the next person.
I understand what your saying but if I had listened to your advice then I would be out of pocket so that makes your advice as
good or as bad as mine.
As long as we are being honest with our experiences and have no hidden motives then we don't need to be careful, its
up to the readers to take your advice or mine.
Some might save themselves a few quid and some might lose out but that's a risk you take when taking anybody's advice.
-
Sean we've been using twin Carbon filers as they are in themselves a 5 micron sediment filter. What is RO shock ?
R.O. shock happens when the pressurised water hits the membrane wall to quickly it can be worse if the membrane
has dried out a little.
Its better and less stressful on the membrane to build the water pressure gradually.
Even better if you run all the water to waste for a few minutes before starting to make pure, as this will wet the membrane
and remove any debris left from the last session.